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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



0[iK}\mt O'CLPpeDi/v. 








(Fireplace in the Residence of John Howard Payne, the Author of ' Home, Sweet Home.") 



^ ^ ' AN© 
h0Ui,Hf<^£Hl®IN(© 



The Mercantile Publishing Company, 
detroit, michigan. 

1889. 





^\^ 

<-'^ 

-y 



COPYRIGHTED BY 

FRANK S. BURTON, 
1889. 



TO 



"T^l^o^e KjoU^eWiVe^ 



"WHO CONSIDER MARRIED LIFE A FAILURE 



THIS BOOK 



IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, 



WITH THE HOPE THAT IT WILL MAKE 



MARRJED LIFE A SUCCESS. 



Contents. 



PAGB. 

Beverages, 9 

Bread making, 18 

Breakfast and Tea Cakes, 29 

Cake, 54 

Clams, . . 162 

Crabs, 164 

Cookies, Jumbles and Snaps, 86 

Coffee, 9 

Confectionery, 387 

Creams and Custards, 91 

Catsup, 101 

Canning Fruit, 104 

Carving, 204-210-227-256 

Dessert, Ill 

Doughnuts, 89 

Eggs and Omelets, . . 148 

Fish, Shell Fish, 154-162 

Frogs, 166 

Fritters, 37 

Fresh Fruits, 107 

Game, 176 

Gems, r . 39 

Griddle Cakes, 33 

Grocer's Department, 387 

Ices and Ice Cream, 183 

Icings, 191 

Jams, 194 

Jellies, 198 

Jumbles, ^^ 

Lobsters, 1"^*^ 

Marketing, -u-s 



Meats 210 

Muffins, 40 

Mush, 41 

Mushrooms, 242 

Memoranda, 353 

Pastry, 136 

Puddings, Ill 

Puffs, 42 

Poultry, 248 

Pickels, 264 

Preserves, 278 

Rolls, 44 

Rusks, 47 

Salads, 286 

Sandwiches, 49 

Snaps, 8 

Soups and Sauces, 293 

Tea, 13 

Time Table 347 

Toast, 51 

The Dining rioom, .... 371 

Vegetables, 316 

Waffles, 52 

Weights and Measures 346 

Wines, 395 

Glossary, 348 






w^ 




(Tcorge Washington's old fire-place at Mt. Vernon, is shown on tlie outside of 
this volume. 




PRKKACK. 



rJE take pleasure in presenting a book to the public with 
.^ ^j. an arrangement of subjects entirely different from any 
S^^i other published, and designed especially to save much 
valuable time to the hoiLsewife. 

The subjects are so arranged that one has only to turn through 
the book, and from the headlines find each chapter in alphabeti- 
cal order, making it easy to turn at once to any subject or recipe 
desired, without even turning to the table of contents. 

The object of this book is to give housekeepers the most 
improved and scientific cookery as developed by the most practi- 
cal schools of cookery of the present day; keeping in mind 
economy as far as consistent with well cooked and healthful 
dishes. Bad cooking is not only a waste of health but of money. 
This book, no doubt, will save many times its cost to each 
purchaser. The object being to assist the housekeejjer in a 
practical way, the authors have not catered to the epicure, hence 
the highly seasoned and exj)ensive dishes have been omitted. 



PREFACE. 

Cook books previously published, have been coniined to 
recipes only, while the general information which is so essential, 
has been omitted. We have taken a step forward, in giving 
at the commencement of each chapter, general directions that will 
apply to the recipes following. 

To illustrate, take for instance chapter seven, "Canning Fruit." 
Before giving any recipes, valuable instruction is given on 
those essential points, as preparing the cans, the tops, the rubbers, 
the kind of cans to be used, heating the fruit, and a complete 
table giving the quantity of sugar required per quart, and the 
time for boiling any kind of fruit. In the chapters on poultry, 
game, and marketing, full information is given on selecting 
meats of all kinds, where the best cuts of meat are to be found, 
the carving etc. 

In the mechanical arrangement of this volume, the publishers 
have made it far excell any other cook book ever published. 

The type is large and clear, the leaves are broad, and the book 
is so bound that it will remain open at any point desired, thus 
saving one's time in frequent opening, as is the case with books 
of narrow pages. 

The initial letters are entirely new features, and were designed 
and copyrighted especially for this book. The artist was 
instructed to represent each chapter in its initial letter. How 
well he has done so the reader can judge when looking through 
the book. So valuable and so cheap a book as this one should 
be owned and used (not borrowed) by every housekeeper. 

If this book should be the means of bringing into the household, 
happiness, peace and contentment; if the husband hereafter sits 
at the table with a smiling and satisfied countenance, and the wife 
feels less of care and anxiety, then its mission will have been 
accomx^lished. 

'^Get a husband what he likes. 

And save a thousand household strikes." 



CHAPTER I. 



Bcueragcs. 




UR BREAKFAST is often a faHure for the 
want of a cup of good coffee. There is 
almost as much in the making, as in the 
coffee itself. Cream adds much to the 
goodness of coffee, while in tea it is harm- 
ful, and should not be used, as the two form 
' a sort of tanniuo It is said that i^eople who 
drink milk in tea, drink leather in a mild 
disguise. 

Truly, nothing is more generally desired or appreciated, 
nothing harder to find than a uniformily good cup of coffee. Its 
IDroduction is usually considered an easy matter, but it involves 
the observance of a considerable number of conditions by a con- 
siderable number of persons, and a volume might be written 
about these and still leave much to to be said. We will, however, 
briefly state the most important requisites. 

"The wholesale dealer must exercise care and judgment in his 
selections, as there is almost as much difference in the flavor of 
coffee as there is of tea ; this is especially true of Mocha, Java, 
Maracaibo, and other fancy coffees, of which frequently the bright- 
est and handsomest looking lots are greatly lacking in the flavor 
and aroma which constitute the chief value of coffee, and which 
can be ascertained only by testing carefullj^ each invoice purchased. 
It should be roasted by a professional roaster, as this is a very 

9 



10 BEVEEAGES. 

important part of the programme, and requires skill, experience and 
constant practice. Expert roasters are usually experienced men and 
command high salaries. A bad coffee roaster is dear at any price, 
as the coffee may be ruined or its value greatly injured by an error 
in judgment or an instant's inattention. Owing to these circum- 
stances, in addition to the fact that in order to do good work it is. 
necessary to roast a considerable quantity at a time, none of the 
small hand machines produce uniformly good results, and they are 
only to be tolerated where distance makes it impossible for the 
retail merchants to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight pack- 
ages) frequent supplies of the roasted article. How much it should 
be roasted is also an important part of the question. For making 
"black" or " French" coffee it should be roasted higher than usual 
(the French, also, often add a little chicory), and some sections are 
accustomed to a higher roast than others, but as a whole the cus- 
tomary New York standard will best suit the average American 
palate. 'Retail dealers should buy their roasted coffee of a reliable 
house that has a reputation to sustain, and that cannot be induced 
to cut down prices below what they can afford to furnish an article 
that will do them credit. Do not buy much at a time (unless in 
air-tight packages), a week or ten day's supply is enough, and if 
you are situated so you can buy it twice a week, so much the 
•better. Keep it in a dry place and, if possible, in a tin can which 
shuts tightly, never in a pine box or bin, for the smell of the wood 
is quickly absorbed by the coffee. Get your customers in the habit 
of buying it in the berry, or, if they have no mill at home and want 
you to grind it for them (every grocer should have a mill), grind it 
pretty fine, so that when used the strength is readily extracted, but 
do not sell them much at a time, as it is a necessity to have it 
freshly ground. 

" Consumei's should adopt the above suggestions to retail dealers 
— ^buy of a reliable dealer who will not represent an inferior article 
as 'Java;' buy in small quantities and buy often; keep it dry in a 
tightly closed tin can or in a glass or earthen jar. Ha^e a small 



BEVERAGES. 11. 

hand coffee mill and grind only when ready to use it, and if, during- 
rainy weather, the kernels become damp and tough warm them up> 
in a clean pot or skillet but do not scorch them; this drives off the 
moisture, restores the flavor and makes it grind better. The 
grinding is an important feature; if ground too coarse you lose- 
much of the strength and aroma of the coffee; if too fine it is hard 
to make it clear, but of the two the latter is the least objectionable; 
both the strength and the flavor of the coffee, however, is a neces- 
sity, and if a little of the finely powdered coffee flows out with the 
liquid extract it is clean and will hurt nobody. It is better, how- 
ever, to grind it just right, which is that the largest pieces will be 
no larger than pin heads." 

We now come to the important part of making coffee. For this 
there are many receipts and formulas, including a large number of 
new and so-called improved coffee-pots, but we have never seen any 
of the new methods which, in the long run, gave as satisfactory 
results as the following old-fashioned receipt: 

Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee; break into it one- 
egg with shell; mix well, adding just enough cold water to thor- 
oughly wet the grounds; upon this pour one pint boiling water; 
let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, and then stand three 
minutes to settle; pour through a fine wire sieve into coffee-pot, 
which should be first rinsed with hot water; this will make enough 
for four persons. Coffee should be served as soon as made. At. 
table, first rinse the cup with hot water, put in the sugar, then fill 
half full of hot milk, add your coffee, and you have a delicious 
beverage that will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have 
an indistinct remembrance of and an intense longing for an ideal 
cup of coffee. If you have cream so much the better; and in that 
case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup to make up. 
for the space occupied by milk, as above; or condensed milk will 
be found a good substitute for cream. 

General Remarks. — We have thus briefly indicated the points 
necessary to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee^ 



12 BEVKliACJES. 

wliotlu^r inado from Kio, or Java, and other mild flavored coffees. 
In tlie ICaslern and Middle Stali-s, Mocha, Java, Maracaiho, Ceylon, 
ote., are most highly esteemed and oi-iierally used; but at tlu^ wi'st 
and south more Ilio coffee is consunu'd. Tiie coffee par excellence, 
liowever, is a mixture of Mocha and Java together, and thus 
thoroughly blended. Mocha alone is too rough and acri<l, but, 
bh'iuled as above, it is certainly delicious. In all varieties, how- 
ever, there is a considerable range as to quality and flavor, and, as 
before stated, the best guide for the consumer is to buy of a reli- 
able dealer and throw upon his shoulders the responsibility of fur- 
nish img a satisfactory artii'le. 

Ib>(eis and ri>staurants that desire good coffee, should make in 
Huiali (luanlities ;uid more frecpuMitly. It is impossible for coffee to 
be gooil when it is kept simmering for hours after it is made. 

COKFKK SunSTITUTES. 

I'rench cooks, who are celebrated for making good coffee, mix 
three or four diffi'rent kinds, and recommend as a good proportion, 
to add to on<' pound of dava about, four ounces of JMocha and four 
ouiu^'s oi' one or two other kinds. It is said that from three parts 
of Kio, with two parts of Old GovernuuMit Java, a coffee can bo 
n\ade (piite as good, if not superior, to lliat made of ,I:iv;i alone. 

^Vheat cofftH', made of a mixture of eight quarts of wheat to ono 
pound o\' real coffee, is said to afford a beverage (piite as agreeable 
as the uuadidterated Rio, besides being inm'h nu)re wholesome. It 
is probably known to many that a very large per cent, of iV-? 
ground coffee sold at the stores is common field ])ease, roasted and 
ground with genuine eolTee. There are hundreds of thousands of 
bushels t)f peas annually usi>d for that [)urpose. Those who are in 
the habit of purchasing ground colTee can do better to buy their 
own pease, burn ami griiul them, and mix to suit themselves. 

Novel Mopk ok ^I.vkinc. Co ffke. 
Put two ounces of ground i'oIYih* into a stewpan, wliicli set upon 
.|hi> lire, stirring tlu^ powder around with a spoon until .juite hot. 



BEVERAGES. 13 

when pour over a pint of ])()iliiit^ water; cover over closely for 
five minutes, when Btrain it tlirougli a cloth, rinse out the stewpan, 
pour the coffee, which will be quite clear, back into it, place it on 
the fire, and when near boiling, serve with hot milk. 

Tea. 

Wo find the following eminently Hcnsiblo lines in Household 
Hints : 

One of the most surprising things one constantly meets is to find 
that the people who have the same duties to perform, day after 
day, or year after year, do not improve in their method or even 
once blunder into the right way of doing them. Nothing is more 
easily made than good tea, and yet how seldon), away from home, 
does one enjoy delicately fragrant tea which Hawthorne calls "an 
angel's gift" and which Miss Mitford said she could be awake all 
night drinking, The first thing needed is a clean tea-pot; it is 
useless to try to nuike good tea in a rusty pot, or one in which the 
leaves have been allowed to remain all night. The water should 
bo boiling but the tea itself should never boil. I wish these words 
could be painted on the wall of every hotel and restaurant kitchen 
in the United States. After the boiling water has been poured 
over the tea set the tea-pot on an extra griddle on the back of the 
stove. All that is good in the tea will be gradually extracted from 
it; then when brought to the tal)Ie one may well echo De Quin- 
cey's wish for an " eternal tea-pot," though not inclined to follow 
his example of drinking it from eight o'clock in the evening until 
four o'clock in the morning. 

The most satisfactory steeper I ever used is an old-fashioned 
brown earthern tea-pot. This may be kept perfectly clean with 
almost no trouble. Whatever may be said of the hurtfulness of 
tea, when immoderately used, a cup of the afternoon tea so fre- 
quently mentioned in novels and essays is an unpurchasablo luxury. 
Hamerton says in "The Tntelhictual Life:" " If tea is a safe stimu- 
lant it is certaiidy an agreeable one; there seems to bo no valid, 
reason why brain workers should recuse themselves this solace." 



i4 BEVERAGES. 

Toko Tea. 

The tea shouKl bo made in the inorninp:, very stroncf, and not 
'allowtMl to stoop lonij. Koop in tho ioo-box till tho nioal is roadj 
and thou put in a small qnantity o{ oraokod ioo. Very fow nndor- 
stand tho art of makin«:j iood toa, 1 pour tho soalding hot toa on a 
goMot of ioo lumpod in, and as tho ioo n\olts tho toa is woak, insipid, 
aiul a libol on its name. Iced coffoo is very nice made in the same 
-way. Too mnoh ice is dotrimontal to health and often causes 
gastric fever; so beware of it when in a heated state, or do not 
xiriuk of it in large quantities. 

A Goop Summer Drtxiv. 
Two pounds Catawba grapes, throe tablospoonfuls loaf sugar, 
one oup of cold water. Squeeze the grapes hard in a coaree cloth, 
when you have picked them from tho stems. AVring out every 
•drop of juice; add tho sugar, and when it is dissolved, the water, 
t^iirrouud with ioo until very cold; put a lump of ice into a pitcher, 
pour out tho mixture upon it, and drink at once. Yon can add 
more sugar if you like, or if the grapes are not quite ripe. 

COTTAGK BkER. 

Take a peek of good wheat bran and put it into ton gallons of 
vat or with three handfuls of good hops, and boil tho whole 
together \intil tho bran and hops sink to the bottom. Then strain 
it through a hair sieve or a thin oloth into a cooler, and when it is 
ftbout lukewarm add two quarts of molasses. As soon as the 
molasses is melted, pour tho whole into a ton-gallon oivsk, with two 
tablospoonfuls of yeast. When the fermentation has subsided, 
bung up the cask, aud in four days it will bo fit to use. 

Gts'GEK Beek. 
Poil six ounces of bruised ginger in three quarts of water, fol 
half an hour; then add five pounds of loaf sugar, a gill of lemon 
juice, quarter pound of honey, and seventeen quarts more of -vrater. 



BEVERAGES. 15 

and strain it through a cloth. When it is cold put in the whole of 
an egg, and two drachms of essence of lemon. After standing 
three or four day.s, it may be bottled. 

Spruce Beee. 

Take four ounces of hops, boil half an hour in one gallon of 
water; strain it; add sixteen gallons of warm water, two gallons 
of molaKses, eight ounces of essence of spruce dissolved in one quart 
of water; put it in a clean cask, shake it well together, add half 
pint of yeast, let it stand and work one week; if warm weather, 
less time will do. When drawn off, add one teaspoonf ul of molasses 
to each bottle. 

Iced Buttermilk. 

There is no healthier drink than buttermilk, but it must be the 
creamy, rich buttermilk to be good. It should stand on the ice to 
cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice in it is an improve- 
ment. 

Claret Cup. 

Put into a bowl three bottles of soda water, and one bottle of 
clarefe. Pare a lemon very thin and grate a nutmeg; add to these, 
is a jug, one pound of loaf sugar, and pour over them one pint of 
boiling water; when cold, strain and mix with the wine and soda 
water; a little lemon juice may be added. 

Fruit Cup. 
Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lemons; squeeze 
the juice over it in an earthern bowl, and let it stand over night if 
possible. Pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, and let it lay 
over night in half a pound of powdered sugar. Crush one quart of 
berries, and let them lay over night in half a pound of powdered 
sugar. If all these ingredient cannot be prepared the day before 
they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, 
because the juices of the fruit need to be incorporated with the 
Bugar at least twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all 



16 BEVERAGES. 

the ingredients have been properly prepared, as above, strain off 
the juice, carefully pressing all of it out of the fruit; mix it with 
two pounds of powdered sugar and three quarts of ice water, and 
stir it until all the sugar is dissolved. Then strain it again through 
a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve, and put it on the ice or in a very 
cool place until it is wanted for use. 

Cream of Tartar Drink. 
Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, the grated rind of a lemon, 
half a cup of loaf sugar, and one pint of boiling water. This is a 
good summer drink for invalids, and is cleansing to the blood. 

Jelly Drinks. 
A little jelly or fruit syrup dissolved in a goblet of water with a 
little sugar is a refreshing drink. Lime juice squeezed into lemon- 
ade gives it a tart but pleasing flavor. A little orange juice is also 
an improvement in nearly all summer drinks. 

Simon Pure Lemonade. 
Take thin-skinned lemons; roll them on the table until very soft; 
slice very thin with a sharp knife into a large pitcher, averaging 
one lemon to a person, thus allowing them two glasses apiece. Put 
in the pitcher with the sliced lemon a cup of white sugar to five 
lemons (or more if you want it sweeter) and pound all well together 
with a potato masher; put in a lump of ice; let it stand a few 
minutes and fill the pitcher with ice water. This makes lemonade 
that is lemonade, and the peel in the pitcher is delicious. 

Jelly Lemonade. 
Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons 
and steep it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil a pound and 
a half of loaf sugar in three pints of water, skimming it until it is 
clear. Pour these two mixtures together. Add to them the juioe 
of six oranges and twelve lemons, mix and strain through a jelly- 
bag until clear; keep cool until wanted for use. If the beverage ia 



BEVEKAGES. 17 

to be kept several days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and 
corked tightly. If for a small party, half of the quantity will be 
sufficient. 

Ginger Lemonade. 
Take a half cup of vinegar, one cup of sugar, two teaspoonf uls 
ginger; stir well together, put in a quart pitcher and fill with ice 
water. If one wants it sweeter or sourer than these quantities will 
make it, more of the needed ingredients may be put in. It is a 
cooling drink and almost as good as lemonade, some preferring it. 

Berry Sherbet. 
Crush one pound of berries, add them to one quart of water, one 
lemon sliced, and one teaspoonful of orange flavor, if you have it. 
Let these ingredients stand in an earthen bowl for three hours; then 
strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one pound 
of powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on the ice until ready 
to serve. 

Excellent Mead. 
Three pounds brown sugar, one pint of molasses, one-fourth 
pound tartaric acid; mix, pour over them two quarts boiling water, 
stir till dissolved. When cold, add half ounce essence sassafras 
and bottle. When you wish to drink it, put three tablespoonfuls 
of it in a tumbler, fill half full with ice water, add a little more 
than one-fourth teaspoonful soda. An excellent summer beverage. 




CHAPTER II. 

KLESS pains is taken in bread-making, 
it is a failure. Bread is one of the 
most important subjects in the entire 
range of domestic economy. Poor meat, 
jDoor vegetables, poor pastry, can be 
endured, but poor bread and butter, never. 
The art of making good bread should be 
mastered by every housekeeper. It de- 
pends on good flour, good yeast, strength 
to knead it well, and careful baking. The flour should be old 
and dry. To test good flour, squeeze it between the thumb and 
finger, it should then show the print of the skin. Good, strong, 
fresh yeast is Indispensable, if you wish light bread. 

Too small a proportion of yeast, or a poor thin yeast, or insuffi- 
cient time allowed for the dough to rise, will cause the bread to 
be heavy. 

If either the sponge or the dough be neglected when it has 
reached the proper point for kneading, sour bread will probably 
be the consequence. The goodness will also be endangered by 
placing it so near a fire as to make any part of it hot, instead of 
maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat required for its 
due fermentation. 

Heavy bread will also be the result of making the dough very 
hard, and letting it become quite cold. 

A certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it partly made, or 
allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most 
common causes of failure are, using yeast which is not fresh, or 
which has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it. 

18 



BREAD. ly 

After the dough is mixed, leaving it soft as can be kneaded 
readily, let it set several hours in a warm place where it will 
have a steady, even, and not too warm temperature. Too much 
heat makes the bread sour; too little heat stops the rising and 
makes the bread heavy. When put into the oven the dough 
should be elastic as India rubber. 

If the bare arm can be held in the oven a half minute only, it 
is about right. The oven door should not be opened after the 
bread is put in until the dough is set or has become firm, as the 
cool air admitted will have an unfavorable effect on it. The 
dough should rise and the bread begin to brown after about 
£fteen minutes, but only slightly. Bake from fifty to sixty 
minutes, and have it brown, not black or whitey brown, but 
brown all over when well baked. 

Allien the bread is baked, remove the loaves immediately from 
the pans, and while hot, wrap in several thicknesses of bread- 
cloth. When cold, put them in a stone jar, removing the cloth, 
as that absorbs the moisture and gives the bread an unjileasant 
taste and odor. Keep the jar well covered, and carefully 
cleansed from crumbs and stale pieces. Scald and dry it 
thoroughly twice a week. 

In mixing, the following plan is a good one: Take the 
required amount of water, and put in only two-thirds the amount 
of flour to be used, and after beating to a stiff batter, the remain- 
der can be gradually stirred in. If scalding water be used to 
mix the flour, it must be allowed to cool before adding the yeast. 

Potato Yeast. 

Boil a good handful of hops in a quart of water and pour it}' 
over two teacups of grated potatoes, while boiling hot, stir mix- 
ture until it just comes to a boil ; add one-quarter teacup of salt, 
and one-half teacup of sugar, and let stand until it is cool ; then 
add the usual quantity of good yeast to start it with; when raised 
put it into a jar, cover closely and set in a clean place; use one 
teacup for about four loaves of bread. 



20 BREAD MAKING. 

A Good Reliable Yeast. 

Steep slowly, in a porcelain or bright tin kettle, one large hand- 
ful of hops, tied in a cloth, boil six large potatoes, sliced thin, in 
two quarts of water; when done very soft, mash till smooth and 
creamy. Have ready one pint of flour, wet and rubbed to a smooth 
paste; pour into this the potato water, boiling hot, stirring- 
smoothly; let it boil a few minutes, stirring all the time; add the 
hop water and potatoes, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and one cup of 
white sugar; stir thoroughly, and set away to cool. When milk 
warm, stir in one cup of yeast; let it rise in a warm* place twelve 
hours; put it into an air-tight vessel, previously well scalded, and 
set in the cellar. This will keep from four to six weeks. Always 
make new yeast before the old is gone, in order to have some to 
start with. Be very particular with every new batch of yeast, to 
have the vessel in which it is kept well cleaned, and scalded with 
hot saleratus water. Much depends upon keeping this sweet and 
clean. 

Another Good Yeast. 

Boil two potatoes with a good handful of hops, tied in a bag; 
mash the potatoes when done, in the yeast dish, and add two tea- 
cupfuls of flour, and scald with the potato water; when cool, add 
a yeast cake soaked in warm water. Dry hop yeast can always be 
found at grocery stores. 

1 Good Home-made Bread. 

The superiority of good home-made bread has long been acknowl- 
edged, yet how few know how to make a really good article of 
bread, therefore so many housekeepers depend on the baker, which 
is at least very expensive, to say nothing of the injury the constant 
use of baker's bread causes to the health of delicate persons and 
children, as all baker's bread contains alum, which causes the loaves 
to increase in weight, as it makes the flour absorb more water. 
Therefore a pound loaf of baker's bread will contain less nourish- 
ment than a loaf of home-made bread of equal weight. Economy, 



BREAD MAKING. 21 

therefore, should make every housekeeper her own bread maker, as 
baker's bread dries and becomes stale much quicker than home- 
made. 

To make first-rate bread, the sponge should be set over night in 
E warm place and raised and kneaded three times; the first time 
from fifteen to twenty minutes — the more the better. If this rule 
is followed the bread will present an even surface when sliced off, 
and not the loose, crumbly appearance which is so often seen in 
bread. 

Take three quarts of good flour, sift and warm; make a ftavity in 
the center, add a large teaspoonful of salt; take one pint of new 
milk, or water boiling hot, pour into this and stir quickly; cool off 
with one quart of cold milk or water; add one cup of yeast; mix 
well together; then cover well and set in a moderately warm place 
(if in cold weather) ; this will be ready to knead up before break- 
fast, if set over night. Slashing the dough with a sharp knife adds 
to its lightness and texture. When well kneaded the first time cover 
tightly, watch closely, and as soon as light knead as before, but be 
very careful not to work in much flour; only keep enough on the 
board to prevent sticking, as all the flour that is added after the 
first kneading only makes the bread hard and dry. As soon as it 
is light the second time divide into loaves and reserve a portion for 
biscuit so that the bread will not be cut till cold. Mold smoothly, 
put into tins, let rise fifteen or twenty minutes in a warm place; 
bake half an hour in moderately hot oven. When done, set on 
hearth, cover with double thick cloth five minutes, turn out on 
same cloth; let stand until cool; put in stone jar and keep covered. 
Always keep a cloth folded in the bottom of the jar to take up 
the dampness which naturally collects. 

Yeast Bread. 

To three quarts water add one teacupful of yeast, stir into 
enough sifted flour to make a stiff batter; do this in the evening 
and set in a warm place. In the morning mix stiff; it will soon 



22 BREAD MAKING. 

rise, then mold out into the tins. No certain time can be given for 
the time of rising, as that depends on the temperature. 

Potato Bread. 
Pare and boil six good-sized potatoes, drain off the water, mash 
fine and pour over them about three pints of cold water and run 
through a colander; add flour until this is a thin batter, then put 
in a coffee cup of yeast from the jug; let stand imtil it rises, then 
stir into it flour as much as you can with a spoon and let it rise 
again; work in enough more flour to make stiff enough for bread, 
and then let rise the third time; when light this time, work intff 
loaves and let rise. All the flour must be sifted. 

Anothee. 

Boil four potatoes to the loaf; mash when done and add two tea- 
cupfuls of flour and scald with the potato water; when cool add the 
yeast and let stand till bed time, then sponge and knead in the 
morning; make quite stiff and knead fifteen or twenty minutes; let 
rise again and mold into loaves. 

Milk Sponge Bread. 
Put a pint of boiling water into a pitcher with a teaspoonful of 
sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and the same of soda; let it 
stand till you can bear your finger in it, then add flour to make a 
thick batter; beat it hard for two minutes. Now place the pitcher 
in a kettle of hot water — not hot enough to scald the mixture; keep 
the water at the same temperature till the emptyings are light. If 
set early in the moi-ning and carefully watched they will be ready 
by eleven o'clock to make a sponge the same as for other bread, 
with a quart of very warm milk. Let this sponge get very light, 
then make into loaves and set to rise again, taking care that they 
do not get too light this time before putting into the oven, or the 
bread will be dry and tasteless. The emptyings pitcher and bread 
pan or tray must be perfectly clean and sweet. Scald them out 
Vrith saleratus or lime water. 



BREAD MAKING. 23 

Salt Rising Bread. 

In the evening scald two tablespoonf uls of corn meal, a pinch of 
salt and one of sugar, with sweet milk, and set in a warm place till 
morning; then scald a teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, half as 
much soda, with a pint of boiling water, add cold water till luke- 
warm, then put in the mush made the night before, and thicken to 
a batter with flour; put in a close vessel in a kettle of warm water 
(not too hot); when light, mix stiff, adding a little shortening; 
mold into loaves. It will soon rise, and will not take as long to 
bake as yeast bread. 

Salt Rising Bread, No. 2. 

In the morning take a quart dish and scald it out, then put in a 
pint of warm water; put in a teaspoonful of salt and a little pinch 
of soda, two or three tablespoonfuls of corn meal, and flour enough 
to make a thick batter. Stir well, and set the dish in a kettle of 
warm water, and keep at the same temperature (just so you can 
bear your hand in it). If water rises on the top, stir in briskly one 
or two tablespoonfuls of flour, and put back into the kettle. If the 
flour is good the emptyings will be light within three or four 
hours; then take flour enough in a bread pan to make three or four 
loaves of bread, make a hole in the centei', put in the emptyings, 
and fill the same dish with warm water; add a little salt, stir it in 
with a spoon, mix a thick sponge and cover it with some of the 
flour, ^nd set in a warm place to rise. AVhen light, mold it into 
loaves and set to rise again (it does not require as much kneading 
as yeast bread). Bake from a half to three-fourths of an hour. 
Railroad emptyings are made in the same way, of middlings instead 
of flour. 

Corn Bread. 

One pint sweet milk, one pint sour milk, one pint flour, two pints 
meal, one teaspoonful syrup, one teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful 
•oda. Steam three hours. 



21 BRExVD MAKING. 

CoRX Bread, No. 2. 

Two eggs well beaten, one cup sugar, half cup butter, one cup 
sweet milk, half cup sour milk, half cup wheat flour, one and a half 
cups corn meal, two teaspoonfuls of any good baking powder. 

Corn Bread, No. 3. 

One pint buttermilk, two eggs, one pint corn meal, two table- 
spoonfuls melted butter, a little salt, and one teaspoonful soda. 

• Corn Bread, No. 4. 

One pint com meal, one pint flour, one pint buttei-milk, one tea- 
cupful molasses, one teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful salt. Bake 
just two hours. 

Grandmother's Indian Bread. 

Three cups sweet milk, three cups corn meal, one cup wheat 
flour, one half cup molasses, one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoon- 
ful salt. Put into a buttered bake-dish, and set in a steamer and 
steam three hours. 

Quick Graham Bread. 

One and a half pints sour milk, two-thirds cup cooking molasses, 
a half teaspoonful salt, two even teaspoonfuls of saleratus dissolved 
in a little hot water, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in 
evenly with a spoon. Put into a well-greased pan, and bake imme- 
diately. It will require from an hour and a half to two hours to 
bake. 

Baking Powder Graham Bread. 

One and one-half pints Graham flour, one-half pint flour, one 
tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls 
baking powder; mix with a pint and a half of milk, or equal parta 
of milk and water. Sift together Graham, flour, sugar, salt, and 
baking powder; add the milk, or milk and water, mix rapidly into 
a soft dough, put into a greased tin, bake in rather hot oven for 
forty minutes. Protect the loaf with paper the first fifteen minutesi 



BREAD MAKING. 25 

Brown Bread of Graham Flour. 
Take one cup of milk; add hot water to warm; thicken with 
sifted flour, sufficient to make a sponge; stand over nio-ht in a 
warm place; in the morning add half a cup of milk, with a cup of 
hot Avater, one cup molasses, one cup butter, one teaspoonf ul salt ; 
mix in Graham flour till thick, and smooth with a spoon; pour into 
bread pans half full; let stand in a warm place until the pans are 
nearly full; bake an hour in a moderately hot oven. Keep a steady 
fire. 

Graham Bread. 

To a scant quart of warm water add a heaping teaspoonful of 
salt, a good half cup of brown sugar; stir in a pint of the sponge 
made of flour for potato bread; add as much Graham flour as 
can be stirred in; put into baking pans and let rise until light; 
bake in a moderate oven, and when done wrap in a damp towel 
until cool. 

Graham Bread, No. 2. 

Take one and two-thirds cups of water or milk and a small piece 
of butter or lard; mix quite thick with Graham flour or Arlington 
wheat meal, which is better; add half a cup of good yeast and set 
to rise over night. In the morning dissolve one-half teaspoonf ul 
soda in a little water and add one-half cup of molasses; stir this 
into the bread, mix quite soft and put in bakmg tin to rise. Bake 
thoroughly. A nice rye and wheat loaf may be made in the same 
way, using one and one-half cups sifted rye and the rest wheat 
flour. If you wish a light colored loaf use only one cup of rye and 
sweeten with sugar. 

Brown Bread. 

Take two quarts of corn meal ; scald with one quart of boiling 
milk or water; when cool add one quart of Graham flour, one large 
spoonful salt, one cup brown sugar or best molasses, one cup home- 
made yeast, one cup flour. Mix with warm water as stiff as can 
easily be stirred ; put in deep basins; steam two hours and bake 



26 BREAD MAKING. 

one. Before baking baste with a few spoonfuls of sweet cream or 
milk; this makes a soft, tender crust. 

Biscuit is made from the same dough as the bread, rolled out and 
spread with a small quantity of lard, which must be very fresh and 
sweet. Double the dough together, roll and spread again three 
times; then cut in small biscuits; place on buttered tins; let stand 
half an hour; bake fifteen minutes until a very light brown. Cover 
with cloth a few minutes and slip off on the same until ready for 
use. All bread, biscuit, loaf cake or doughnuts made from yeast 
should rise after being mixed before being baked; if put into the 
oven or fried directly they are never light, as the dough has no 
chance to recover its elasticity. 

Bkown Bkead, No. 2. 

One pint of rye meal sifted, one jDound of coarse yellow Indian 
meal sifted, one quart of sour milk, salt, half cup of molasses or 
less, one heaping teaspoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little hot 
water. Steam three hours and-a-half in a tin pail set in a kettle of 
boiling water, 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Flour one-half pint, one pint corn meal, one-half pint ryi* 
flour, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful brown sugar 
two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half pint water; sift flour, 
corn meal, rye flour, sugar, salt and baking powder together 
thoroughly; peel, wash, and well boil tAvo mealy potatoes, rub 
them through the sieve, diluting with water. When this is quite 
cold use it to mix the flour, etc., into a batter like cake; pour it 
into a well-greased mold, having a cover (a tin pail will do), place 
it in a kettle or sauce pan half full of boiling water, when the 
loaf may steam or simmer one hour; then take off the cover and 
bake in the oven a half hour. 

Rye Bread. 

Make a sponge as for wheat bread, and let it rise over night; 
then add two-thirds cup molasses, one teaspoonful salt, one quart 



BREAD MAKING. 27 

milic and water — equal parts — and mix with rye flour, not as stiff 
as wheat bread, and bake. 

Rye and Indian Bread. 

Scald two quarts Indian meal by pouring over it just boiling 
water enough to wet it, one quart rye meal or flour, one-half tea- 
cupful molasses, two teaspoonfuls salt, one of soda, one cup of 
yeast; make as thick as can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with 
wai*m water, and let rise over night; put in a bake tin, let stand a 
half hour, and bake from four to six hours. 

Rye Bread with Baking Powder. 

One pint rye flour, one-half pint corn meal, one-half pint flour, 
one teaspoonful sugar, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls. 
baking powder, one tablespoonful lard, nearly one pint milk. Sift 
together rye flour, corn meal, flour, sugar, salt and powder, rub in 
the lard cold, add the milk and mix into a smooth batter, as for 
cake; pour into a well greased tin, and bake in a moderate ovea 
three-quarters of an hour; protect with a paper the first quarter. 

HoY^LETON Bread. 

Five cups Indian meal, seven cups wheat flour, two cups ry& 
meal, four cups buttermilk, two cups sweet milk, one-half cup 
molasses, two teaspoonfuls salt, two teaspoonfuls soda. Put it in a 
three quart pail that has a cover; let it stand near the fire thirty 
minutes with the cover off, to rise, then put on cover, and bake or 
steam four hours. 

Norwegian Bread, for Dyspeptics. 

One pint barley meal, one-half pint Graham, one-half pint flour, 
one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one pint 
milk. Sift together barley meal, Graham, flour, salt and powder. 
Mix into a firm batter Avith the milk, pour into a greased tin, and 
bake in a moderate oven forty minutes; cover with a greased paper- 
the first twenty minutes. 



*28 BREAD 3IAKINa 

Oat Meal Bread. 

One-half pint oat meal, one and-a-half pints flour, half teaspoonful 
salt, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-fourths pint milk; 
boil the oat meal in one and-a-half pints salted water for one hour. 
Then dilute it with the milk. Set aside to get perfectly cold. Sift 
together flour, salt, powder, and when the oat meal preparation is 
cold place it in a bread bowl; add to it the flour, etc.; mix smoothly- 
together, pour from the bowl into the greased tin, and bake in a 
moderate oven three-fourths of an hour; protect the loaf Avith paper 
the first twenty minutes. 

Rice Bread. 

Boil one cupful of rice in a pint of water; when tender, add one* 
half pint milk; when cold, add one and-a-half pints flour sifted, with 
a teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls baking 
powder; mix together smootniy, pour into greased tin, and bake 
forty minutes. 



CHAPTER III. 



Srcakfast aub ®ca €akc5. 




EALLY the best biscuit is the "beaten bis- 
cuit," as they are known in the south. 
They are really the most delightful and 
wholesome of all biscuit. The best of flour 
should always be used ; butter and milk 
i[i) are better than lard and water, though 
^^ these may be used when butter and milk 
^^^ are wanting. 

To one quart of flour add one tablespoon 
of lard or butter, and one-half teaspoon of fine salt. Mix these 
well together, using sweet milk or cold water, and mix until it is 
as stiff a dough as can be handled, then beat and beat until the 
dough pops and blisters and becomes soft and pliable. 

This beating can be done on a stone or marble slab, with a roll- 
ing-i)in, wooden mallet, or a hammer used for this purj^ose only. 

Koll out half an inch thick, cut and prick with a fork, and 
bake in a moderately hot oven to a nice delicate brown, and you 
have the perfection of biscuits. These are especially nice for 
travellers, as they will keep for a week or longer and be very 
good. The entire secret lies in the thorough beating. 

As in beating cake never stir ingredients into the batter, but 
beat them in, by beating down from the bottom and wp and over 
again. This laps the air into the dough and iDroducing air-cells, 
causes the dough to puff and swell when it comes in contact with. 
the heat of the ovem 

29 



^0 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. 
To begin with, liave a hot oven; have the flour sifted, and roll 
«dough as soft as it can be handled. Then more baking pow' 
der is needed than is usually given. For each teacupful of flour 
use a teaspoonful of powder; butter the size of a hen's egg is suffi- 
cient for a quart of flour; after rubbing powder and butter into the 
flour, mix soft with cold water or milk, stirring with a spoon; roll 
lightly and bake at once. 

Cream of Tartar Biscuit. 

One quart flour, a tablespoonf ul of butter, and a tablespoonful of 
lard, a half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda, two tea- 
spoonfuls of cream of tartar. Sift the flour and cream of tartar 
together, rub the butter and lai-d very thoroughly through it; dis- 
solve the soda in a pint of milk or water (if water, use more short* 
-ening) ; mix all together. Roll out, addiug as little flour as possi- 
ble; cut with a biscuit cutter, and bako immediately in a quick 
oven. 

English Biscurr. 

One and a-half pints of flour, one coft:ee-cup full corn starch, three 
tablespoonfuls sugar, a large pinch of salt, two large teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, three tablespoonfuk lard, one egg, one-half pint 
milk, one-half cup currants, one tablespoonful coriander seed (if 
desired). Sift together flour, corn starch, sugar, salt, and baking 
powder; rub in the lard cold; add. the eggs beaten, milk, currants 
well cleaned; mix into a smooth dough soft enough to handle, flour 
the board, turn out the dough, roll it out to half an inch thickness, 
cut out with a round cutter, lay them on a greased baking tin, and 
bake in a rather hot oven twenty minutes; rub over with a little 
Ijutter on a clean piece of linen when taken from the oven. 

GrahaM Biscuits. 
Take one quart water or milk, butter the size of an egg, three 
tablespoonfuls sugar, half cup yeast, and a little salt; take enough 
white flour to mix a batter with the water; add the other ingi-edi- 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 31 

ents, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon; 
set it away until morning; then grease a pan, flour hands, take a 
lump of dough the size of a hen's egg, roll lightly between the 
palms; let them rise twenty minutes, and bake in a rather hot oven. 

Cold Biscuits. 
Three pints flour, two tablespoonf uls sugar, one teaspoonful salt, 
two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, four tablespoonfuls 
lard, two tablespoonfui^ caraway seeds, two eggs, one i)int milk. 
Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder, rub in lard cold, add the 
seeds, beaten eggs, and milk; mix into a smooth, firm dough, flour 
the board, turn out the dough, give it a few quick kneadings, and 
roll out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut into large bis- 
cuits, prick with a fork, lay on a greased tin. Bake in hot oven 
fifteen minutes; when cold, store for use. 

BUNNS. 

Break an egg into a cup, and fill the cup up with sweet milk; 
mix with it a half cup yeast, half cuj) butter, one cup sugar, enough 
flour to make a soft dough; flavor with nutmeg; let rise till very 
light, then mold into biscuits with a few currants; let rise the 
second time and bake, and when nearly done glaze with a little 
molasses and milk. 

BUNNS. 

One cup butter, one cup sugar, half cup yeast, half pint milk, 
make stiff with flour, and mold into biscuits; when light, bake. 

BUNNS. 

One cup yeast, one egg, one tablespoonf ul molasses, flour to make 
a batter; let it rise, then add one pint milk, one pint sugar dissolved 
in the milk, half pint butter, two eggs; stir in flour stiff enough to 
make the buns, and let them rise in the pans before baking. 

Cinnamon Cake. 
Take yeast bread dough when light, knead and roll out three- 
fourths of an inch thick; })ut thin sli(res of butter on the top, 
sprinkle with sugar, and then with cinnamon: let rise, and bake. 



32 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Graham Cakes. 
To one quart Graliam flour add one teaspoonful of salt, five 
tablespoonfuls molasses, three tablespoonfuls yeast, or a yeast cake 
dissolved in warm water. Stir as thick as pound cake; let stand 
over night; when ready to bake, add a well beaten egg, a table- 
spoonful lard and a teaspoonful of soda. Bake in cups half an hour. 

Rye Drop Cakes. 

One egg, two cups rye flour, two cups flour, half a cup sugar, a 
teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful 
soda — or three teaspoonfuls baking powder, — a tablespoonf ul melted 
butter, and one of lard, oiie and a half cups milk; drop from a spoon 
and bake half an hour. 

Corn Cakes. 

One pint sour milk, two cups Indian meal, one cup flour, one eggy 
two tablespoonfuls molasses, one teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful 
soda; mix thoroughly and bake twenty -five minutes in shallow 
pans. 

Johnny Cake. 

One quart corn meal, one quart milk, two eggs, two tablespoon- 
fuls shortening, half cup sugar, teaspoonful salt, three teaspoonfuls 
baking poAvder — or substitute one quart sour milk and a large tea- 
spoonful soda. 

Newport Breakfast Cakes. 

Three eggs, three spoonfuls sugar, one and-a-half pints milk, 
half cup butter, three teaspoonfuls baking powder. Stir stiff with, 
flour and bake in loaves, like cakes. 

Potato Cakes. 
Peal enough good sized potatoes for a meal for the family, grate 
on a coarse grater, and stir in from three to five eggs, salt and mix 
Stiff enough to mold into cakes, and fry in hot lard or drippings. 



GPJDDLE CAKES. 3.'i 

GRIDDLE CAKES. 

Stale Bread Griddle Cakes. 
Soak one pint bread crumbs in warm water, when soft drain oft 
the wate/ and add one pint sour milk with a teaspoonful soda 
stirred in, half teaspoonful salt, a beaten egg, and thicken with 
flour to make a batter. 

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes. 
One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or buttermilk, one egg, one 
teaspoonful soda, one of salt. Bake on a griddle. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. 
One and one-half pints boiled rice, the same of flour, one-half 
teacupful sour milk, one teacupful sweet milk, one teaspoonful soda, 
Bait, three eggs, and butter the size of a walnut. 

Flour Griddle Cakes. 
Make a thick batter with one quart of sour milk and flour. Let 
it stand over night and in the morning add two well-beaten eggs, 
palt, and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful warm 
water. Bake immediately. 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes. 
Six ears grated corn, two eggs, one pint milk, one pint flour, one 
tablespoonful butter, a little salt. Bake on a griddle. 

Hominy Griddle Cakes. 
To one pint warm boiled hominy add a pint of milk, or milk and 
water, and flour enough to make a thin batter; beat up two, or 
three eggs and stir them into the batter with a little salt. Fry as 
other griddle cakes. 

Crumb Corn Cakes. 
Soak a quart of bread crumbs in a quart of sour milk over night; 
in the morning rub through a colander and add four well-beaten 
eggs, a heaping teaspoonful soda dissolved in a little warm water, 



34 GRIDDLE CAKES. 

one tablespoonful shortening, and corn meal to mix into a nice 
batter. It is better to beat yolks and whites of eggs separately, 
stirring the whites in lightly just before baking. 

Flannel Cakes. 
Three eggs, one quart sweet milk, one quart sifted flour, with 
three teaspoonfuls baking powder, a small spoonful salt; beat the 
yolks and half of the milk, salt and flour together, then the 
remainder of the milk, and last, the whites of the eggs, well beaten; 
a teacup of boiled rice improves them. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 
Take, of equal parts of buttermilk and water, one quart, half cup 
yeast, a little salt; stir into a batter with buckwheat flour, let rise 
over night; in the morning add half teaspoonful soda dissolved 
in a little water. Bake on a hot griddle. 

Geaham Griddle Cakes. 
One pint Graham flour, half pint corn meal, half pint flour, one 
heaping teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful salt, one egg, one pint 
buttermilk, one teaspoonful soda. 

Squash, Pumpkin and Apple Griddle Cakes. 
Cold stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colaU' 
der, half pint; mix with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. 
Sift together half pint Graham flour, half pint corn meal, half tea- 
spoonful salt, heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Mix smooth and 
thoroughly into a batter and bake on a hot griddle. 

Berry Griddle Cakes. 
Take of huckleberries, blackberries, or raspberries a half pint, 
one and one-half pints flour, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful 
brown sugar, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, two eggs, and one 
pint milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder; add beaten 
eggs, milk and berries; mix into a batter; have the griddle hot 
enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it. In order 
i to confine the juice of the berries turn quickly in order to form a 



GRIDDLE CAKES. ^^> 

crust on the other side; turn once more on each side to complate 
the baking. 

Egg Ckacknels. 

One quart flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, five tablespoonfuls 
sugar, one teaspoonful baking powder, four tablespoonfuls butter, 
and five eggs. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder; rub in 
the butter cold; add the eggs beaten, and mix into a firm, smooth 
dough. Flour the board, turn out the dough, and give it a few 
minutes' rapid kneading; cover with a damp towel fifteen minutes; 
then roll it out to the thickness of one-eighth of an inch. Cut out 
with biscuit cutter. When all are cut out, have a large pot of 
boiling, and a large tin pan of cold water. Drop them a few at a 
time into the boiling water. When they appear at the surface 
and curl at the edges, take them up with a skimmer, and drop them 
in the cold water. When all are thus served, lay them on greased 
baking tins and bake in a fairly hot oven fifteen minutes. 

Oatmeal Crackers. 
One pint very fine oatmeal, one-half pint Graham flour, one-half 
teaspoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful sugar, one-half teaspoonful 
"baking powder, one-half pint cream. Sift together the oatmeal, 
Graham, salt, sugar and powder; add the cream and mix into 
a dough, rather too soft to handle. Let it stand half an hour, by 
which time it will have absorbed the extra moisture, and handling 
it will be easy. Flour the board with Graham, roll out to the 
thickness of one-third inch, prick with a fork, lay on greased bak- 
ing tin, and bake in a moderate oven ten minutes. They must be 
watched during baking, as they burn quickly, and when baked 
handled with care; they break easily. 

Graham Crackers. "" 

Sift together one quart Graham flour, one tablespoonful sugar, 

half teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful baking powder; mix with 

two tablespoonfuls butter and a good half pint milk, into a smooth 

dough, and knead well for five minutes; roll it to the thickness of 



36 GRIDDLE UAKES. 

one-quarter inch, cut into crackers round or square. Bak« in rather 
hot oven ten minutes; when cold store for use. 

Crumpets. 

Mix together thoroughly while dry one quart sifted flour, two 
heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, then add two 
tablespoonf uls melted butter and sweet milk enough to make a thin 
dough. Bake quickly in muffin rings or patty pans. 

London Crumpets. 

Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one-half teaspoonful 
salt, one teaspoonful sugar, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder; 
add one beaten egg, a scant pint of milk and cream in equal parts, 
a little ground cinnamon or a teaspoonful extract; of cinnamon; half 
fill greased muffin rings, place on a hot, well-greased griddle. Bake 
on one side only. Serve hot with cottage cheese. 

Kentucky Corn Dodgers. 

Place your griddle where it will heat, for this is much better 
than a bread pan, there being less danger of scorching at the bot- 
tom. Take an even pint of sifted meal, a heaping tablespoonful of 
lard, a pinch of salt, and a scant half pint of cold water; mix well 
and let it stand while you grease your griddle and sprinkle some 
meal over it. Make the dough into rolls the size and shape of 
goose eggs, and drop them on the griddle, taking care to flatten as 
little as possible, for the less bottom crust the better. Place in the 
oven and bake until brown on the bottom. Then change to the 
grate, and brown on top, taking from twenty to thirty minutes for 
the whole process. Eaten while hot with plenty of good butter, 
they are better than any other bread. 

The same amount of meal, lard and salt mixed with boiling 
water, till of the consistency of thick batter, will give you delight- 
ful hot cakes, to be cooked like any other batter bread. 



FRITTERS. 37 

FRITTERS. 

Greek Corn Fritters. 
GrsMte green corn from the cob, and allow an egg and a half for 
every cupful, with a tablespoonful of milk or cream; beat the eggs 
well; add the corn by degrees, beating very hard; salt to taste. 
Put* a tablespoonful of melted butter to every pint of corn; stir in 
the milk, and thicken with just enough flour to hold them together 
— say a tablespoonful for every two eggs. You may fry in hot 
lard, as you would fritters, or cook upon a griddle like batter cakes. 
Eaten at dinner or breakfast, these always find a cordial welcome. 

Green Corn Fritters, No. 2. 
Two cups of grated corn, two eggs, one cup of milk, flour for 
thin batter, a pinch of soda, salt, one tablespoonful melted butter. 
Mix and fry as you would griddle cakes. 

Apple Fritters. 

Beat three eggs very lightly, then stir in one teaspoonful of salt, 
tne-half cup of sugar, one pint of milk, two cups of chopped apple 
fcnd two cups of flour. Flavor with nutmeg. Stir all well together 
and fry in lard as pancakes. Sift sugar over them and send to the 
table. 

Celery Fritters. 

Boil some thick but tender stalks of celery in salted water; when 
done dry them on a cloth, cut them in equal lengths about one and 
a-half inches; fry them in batter to a golden color, sprinkling fine 
salt well over, and serve. 

Oyster Fritters. 
Drain them thoroughly, chop fine, season with pepper and salt. 
Make a batter of eggs, milk and flour; stir the chopped oysters in 
this and fry in hot butter; or fry them whole, enveloped in batter, 
one in each fritter. In this case the batter should be thicker than 
if they were chopped. 



38 FRITTERS. 

Clam Fritters. 
Twelve clams, minced fine; one pint milk; three eggs. Add the 
liquor from the clams to the milk; beat up the eggs and put to 
this, with salt and pepper, and flour enough for thin batter; lastly, 
the chopped clams. Fry in hot lard, trying a little first to see if the 
fat and batter are right. A tablespoonful will make a fritter of 
moderate size. Or you can dip the whole clams in batter and 
eook in like manner. Fry quickly, or they are apt to be too greasy. 

Lobster Fritters. 
Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water with half a cup salt; 
boil twenty-five minutes; when cold remove the meat and fat, cut 
into small slices; put one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful 
flour, one cup cream, a little celery, salt, thyme, white pepper, and 
a salt-spoon of parsley, into a stew-pan; let boil two minutes; add 
yolks of four eggs, and the lobster; mix and set it back to simmer 
five minutes; pour it out on a well-greased dish and set it away to 
get firm by cooling; cut into slices, dip into common batter and fry 
to a light brown in hot lard. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs of 
parsley, quite dry, fried in the lard fifteen seconds. 

Rice Fritters. 
Boil one cup of rice in one pint of milk until soft; add the yolks of 
three eggs, one tablespoonful sugar, two tablespoonfuls butter, two 
tablespoonf uls flour; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped 
to a stiff froth; drop in spoonfuls in plenty of hot lard and fry to a 
light brown color. Serve with cream, wine or lemon sauce. 

Blackberry Fritters. 
Mix one cup blackberries with one and a-half cups commoit 
"batter and drop by tablespoonfuls into hot lard. 

All berry fritters can be made as directed for the above and 
served with spiced sauce made as follows: Set on the fire three- 
fourths pint of water, one cup sugar; boil twenty minutes, remove 
from the fire and add one teaspoonful each of extract cloves, mace, 
and ginger. 



GEMS. 39 



GEMS. 



Graham Gems. 
One pint milk, one pint Graham flour, salt-spoonful salt; beat 
well; heat the gem pan hot, butter it and drop the dough into the 
sockets with a spoon, filling each one-half full. 

Graham Gems, No. 2. 
One pint buttermilk, one teaspoonful soda, a little salt, one egg, 
one-half cup sugar, tablespoonful lard; thicken with Graham flour, 
and bake in gem tins. 

Graham Gems, No. 3. 
One pint milk, one cup flour, one cup Graham flour, one egg, » 
little salt. Have the irons hot before using. 

Cold Water Gems. 
Take cold water, Graham flour, and a little salt, make rather a 
stiff batter; heat and grease the irons, or tins, and bake twenty 
minutes. 

Mixed Gems. 
One-half pint Graham, half pint corn meal, half pint rye flour, 
half pint buckwheat flour, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, one pint rich milk; mix into a thin 
batter, then half fill well-greased gem pans. Bake in hot oven 
fifteen minutes. 

Corn Gems. 
One pint corn meal, one pint flour, one teaspoonful salt, two 
large teaspoonfuls baking powder, one pint milk; mix into a firm 
batter, two-thirds fill well-greased gem pans and bake in a hot oven 

fifteen minutes. 

Oatmeal Gems. 

Soak one cup oatmeal over night in one cup water; in the morn- 
ing add one cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, one cup of flour, 
a little salt, bake in gem irons. If on trial they are a little moist or 
sticky, add a little more flour. 



40 MUFFINS. 



MUFFINS. 



To one quart of milk add two well-beaten eggs, a lump of butter 
half the size of an egg, a little salt, and flour enough to make a 
stiff batter; stir in half a pint of yeast. Let them stand until they 
are perfectly light and then bake on a griddle in rings made for the 
purpose. These are merely strips of tin three-fourths of an inch 
wide, made into rings two and a half or three inches in diameter, 
and without bottoms, the ring being simply placed on the griddle 
and the batter being poured in to fill it. 

Muffins, No. 2. 

One pint flour, one cup milk, two eggs, two tcaspoonfuls baking 
powder, butter the size of an egg', beat the yolks of the eggs witb 
the butter, then add the whites well beaten. Sift baking powder 
with the flour, and mix all together into a batter. Bake in muffin 
rings. 

Muffins, No. 3. 

One pint new milk, one egg, one tablespoonful sugar, one table- 
spoonful butter, half teaspoonful salt, one cake yeast (or better, 
half cup home-made yeast) ; mix with flour until a very stiff batter 
is formed; leave in a warm place over night and bake in the morn- 
ing in rings. 

Rice Flour Muffins. 

One and one-half cups rice flour, two cups wheat flour, one pint 
milk, one egg, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, a 
small piece of butter. Bake as usual. 

Rice Muffins. 

One pint sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder 
and a little salt. Thoroughly mix together; then add one cup cold 
boiled rice, two eggs, one tablespoonful butter, and enough sweet 
milk to make a thick batter. Bake immediately. 



MUSH. 41 

Graham Muffins. 

Two cups sour milk, one teaspoonf ul saleratus, two eggs, a little 
salt, butter half the size of an egg, three cups Graham flour. Bake 
in rings. 

Graham Muffins, No. 2. 

Two cups Graham flour, one cup sweet milk, one-third cup sugar, 
one egg, butter the size of an egg, two teaspoonf uls baking powder. 
Bake in rings twenty or thirty minutes in hot oven. 

Corn Meal Muffins. 

One and one-half cups of corn meal, the same of flour, two heap- 
ing teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half cup sugar, one-half tea- 
spoonful salt, one tablespoonful butter, two eggs, and milk enough 
to make a stiff batter. 



MUSH. 

Corn Mush. 

Take boiling water (soft water is preferable), salt to the taste, 
add meal very slowly so as to prevent any lumps being formed; 
cook thoroughly. 

Oatmeal Mush. 

Put four tablespoonfuls oatmeal into one quart cold water; add 
one teaspoonful salt, let it cook slowly for from one to two hours, 
adding hot water when needed; just before serving stir in one 
teaspoonful butter, or soak the meal over night and add boiling 
water and cook in the morning. 

Cracked Wheat Mush. 
To one quart salted water add three-fourths cup cracked or 
rolled wheat, and boil two hours; or it may be soaked over night 
and boil one hour. 



42 PUFFS. 

Cracked Wheat Musn, No. 2. 
Moisten one and one-half cups cracked wheat with cold water, 
add one-half teaspoonful salt, place in a muslin bag, leaving half 
the space for the wheat to swell; put into a small colander and 
place in a kettle of water and keep boiling from three to four 
hours. Serve with syrup and butter or cream and sugar. It is 
nice sliced and fried when cold. 

Fried Musii for Breakfast, 
Night before, stir into two quarts of boiling water a little salt 
and one pound of farina, boil for ten minutes, and pour it into 
a shallow dish to cool; next morning cut it into slices, and fiy in 
lard light brown. This is far superior to corn meal mush. 

Hominy. 
Take one cup hominy to one quart salted water and soak over 
night and boil throe-fourths of an hour. Servo with milk and 
sugar. Slice and fry when cold. 



PUFFS. 

Puffs. 
Two eggs, two cups of milk, two cups of flour, and a little salt. 
Pour into hot roll pans and bake in a quick oven. Fill the pans 
about half full. 

German Puffs. 
Two cups of sweet milk, two cups of flour, three eggs, and a 
little salt. 

Graham Puffs. 
One egg, one pint sweet milk, one pint Graham flour, and a pinch 
of salt; beat the eggs thoroughly; add the milk, then the flour 
gradually; beat the whole mixture briskly with an egg-beater; pour 
into cast-iron gem pans, well-greased, and hot; bake in very hot 
oven; this mixture is just suflicient for twelve gems. 



PUFFS. 43- 

Oatmeal Puffs. 
Sift together onc-lialf pint oatmeal, one-half pint Graham, one* 
half pint flour, one tcaspoonful Bugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, and 
two teaspoonfuls baking j)ow(k'r; add three beaten eggs and one 
pint milk; mix into a thin batter; half fill well-greased gem pans 
and bake in hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. 

Potato Puffs. 
To eacli two cupfuls of mashed potatoes take one tablespoonful 
of melted butter and beat to a cream; put with this two eggs 
whipped light, and a cupful of milk, salting to taste; beat all well;, 
pour into greased baking dish and bake quickly to a light brown. 
Serve in the dish in which it is cooked. 

Cream Puffs. 
One-half pint boiling water, one cup of butter, two cups of flour. 
Let the water and butter boil, then stir in the flour; let it cool; add" 
five eggs well beaten; beat all well; drop in muflin rings; bake 
thirty minutes. Boil one j)int of milk; beat together one cup of 
flour, one cup of sugar, and two eggs; add this to the boiling milk 
and boil tbree minutes; cut a hole in the top of each cake and fiU^ 
with cream, putting the piece of crust back. 

PUFFETS. 

One quart flour, one pint milk, two eggs beaten light, butter siz^ 
of an egg, three tablcspoonfuls sugar, three teaspoonfuls baking 
powder; bake quickly. 

Proverbs. 

One cup rich milk, one egg, two cups flour, one teaspoonfui 
baking powder, a little salt; beat together thoroughly, fill buttered 
cups half full and bake in a hot oven. 

Pocket Books. 
One quart warm water or milk, two eggs, three teasj)oonful3 
eugar, one cup yeast, four tablcspoonfuls melted butter, add flour 
to make a sponge, and set to rise; when it is risen work it over and. 



44 ROLLS. 

set to rise again; when light put in a piece of soda the rfze of a 
bean; roll out, spread the surface with butter, cut in squares and 
double over to form a pocket book shape ; put in a pan and let stand 
till light, then bakeo 



ROLLS. 

How TO MAKE Rolls. 
When mashing potatoes for dinner, put a tablespoonful of it into 
one pint of the water they were boiled in, and set aside till bed- 
time; then strain it through a colander, add one pint of milk, one 
large spoonful nice lard, one large spoonful white sugar, one tea- 
spoonful salt, one penny-worth of yeast, and flour to make a stiff 
batter. Leave it in a moderately warm place. In the morning add 
flour enough to make a soft dough, working it well. Let it rise 
again, roll out half an inch thick, cut into round cakes, fold 
together, drawing a buttered knife through as you fold them. Let 
them rise again for half an hour, or until light; bake in a quick 
oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. In cold weather the milk 
should be luke-warm; in hot weather the milk should be scalded 
and cooled. The potatoes must be pared before boiling, and the 
kettle in which they are boiled must be perfectly clean. 

Rolls No. 2. 
Take a piece of bread dough when molded; roll out half an inch 
thick; spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar; roll up an<? 
cut off the size you want; let rise and bake. 

Parker House Rolls. 
Two quarts flour, one cup yeast, one pint milk, boiled, then 
cooled to milk-warm, one tablespoonful of shortening, one of sugar; 
lay a sponge, leaving out enough flour to mix in when rolling out, 
df for tea, mix in the morning; bake as soon as ready. 

CiifNAMON Rolls. 
Take light dough, as for bread; mix in shortening, an egg, and a 



ROLLS. 45- 

little sugar; roll out to about one-quarter inch in thickness; spread' 
with butter, then sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon; roll up and cut 
as you would a jelly cake; put in pans like biscuit; set to rise. 
When light, put a little lump of butter, and sugar and cinnamon 
on each one, and bake. 

White Mountaii? Rolls. 

Sixteen cups of flour, half cup of sugar, cup of butter, cup of 
yeast, the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and four cups 
of boiling milk; melt the butter and sugar in the milk, have the 
milk blood warm and mix the bread, adding the whites of eggs 
after mixing in part of the flour; knead stiff and let rise in a warm 
place over night. In the morning knead into rolls and let rise till 
light; rub the beaten white of an egg over the tops of rolls, and 
bake thirty minutes. 

Vienna Twist Rolls. 

Break pieces off dough (as prepared for common rolls) the size 
of an egg, and divide each piece into two unequal pieces, the largest 
piece form with the hands into a plain roll tapering at each end; 
lay them, thus formed, on a greased baking tin so as not to touch 
each other; flatten each a little and wash over with milk; divide 
the remaining pieces each into three, roll the pieces out under the 
hands into strips a little longer than the roll already made, and 
braid them; then lay each braid, as soon as formed, on top of the 
plain roll; when all are made, wash over with milk. Bake in a hot 
oven twenty minutes — a very handsome roil for a dinner party. 

Oatmeal Rolls. 

Sift together one-half pint oatmeal, one-half pint Graham, one 
pint flour, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
and mix with three-fourths pint milk into a smooth dough; turn 
out and give one or tAvo quick kneadings to complete its quality; 
roll out to the thickness of half an inch, cut out with large round 
cutter, fold through the centre laying one half over on the other. 



46 ROLLS. 

lay them on a greased baking tin so they do not touch, wash over 
with milk and bake in a good hot oven fifteen minutes. 

Italian Rolls. 

Take a piece of bread dough and one-fourth the amount oi 
"butter, work the butter thoroughly into the dough and roll out to 
about one-half an inch in thickness; cut into strips about six inches 
Jong; sift over them fine corn meal, place them, separated, on a 
l)uttered baking tin, and when light bake in a quick oven. 

Geaham Breakfast Rolls. 

Take six potatoes, boiled and pressed through a colander, one pint 
warm water, one-half cup sugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-half 
-cup yeast; mix into a stiff dough with Graham flour, and let rise 
•over night; in the morning mold into rolls and bake when light. 

French Rolls. 

Into one pound of flour rub two ounces of butter and the whites 
-of three eggs well-beaten; add a tablespoonful of good yeast, a 
little salt, and milk enough to make a stiff dough; cover and set in 
3, warm place till light; cut into rolls, dip the edges into melted 
butter to keep them from sticking together, and bake in a quick 
■oven. 

Tremont House Rolls. 

Take two quarts of flour, add one teaspoonfnl salt; make a hole 
in the middle and put into it one tablespoonful of sugar, butter 
about the size of an egg, one pint of boiled milk, and one teacupful 
of yeast. Do not stir, but put them together at night, and set in 
a cool j)lace until morning. Then mix all together and knead 
fifteen minutes. Set in a cool place again for six hours, and roll 
out about one-half an inch thick and cut with a biscuit cutter; 
moisten one edge with butter, and fold together like rolls; lay in 
the pan so that they will not touch, set for half an hour in a warm 
_place to rise, and bake in a quick oven. 



RUSKS. 47 

Rosettes. 
To three eggs, the yolks beaten very light, add one quart of milk, 
a piece of butter the size, of an egg cut in little pieces into the milk 
and eggs, three coffee cups of flour, a little salt, three teaspoonf uU 
of baking powder, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten very 
light and stirred quickly into the mixture. Bake in a quick oven. 



RUSKS. 

Sweet Rusks. 
In one large coffee cup of warm milk dissolve one cake of com- 
pressed yeast; then add three eggs and one cup of sugar, and 
beat all together; use only flour enough to roll out, to which 
add two ounces of butter; let it rise. When very light, knead, 
mold into shape, and set in a warm place. When light, bake in a 
hot oven; when done, cover the top with sugar dissolved in milk. 

Sweet Rusks, No. 2. 
One pint of warm milk — new is best — one-half cup of butter, one 
cup of sugar, two eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls 
of yeast ; make a sponge with the milk, yeast, and enough flour to 
make a thin batter, and let rise over night. In the morning add the 
sugar, butter, eggs, and salt, well-beaten together, with enough 
flour to make a soft dough. Let it rise again, then make into 
round balls, and rise a third time. Bake in a moderate oven. 

Rusks. 
Half pint of sweet milk, one teacup of yeast, two eggs; mix 
with sufficient flour for a stiff batter and raise; then add one cup of 
butter, half cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of soda, and a little nut- 
meg; let rise, and knead out into biscuits; let rise and bake. Just 
before taking out of the oven beat up the white of an egg and rub 
over the top, then sprinkle with sugar; put into the oven again for 
A momentj and serve hot. 



48 RUSKS. 

Baking Powder Rusks. 

Thoroughly mix with one quart sifted flour, two heaping tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, and one teaspoonful salt; then mix the 
beaten yolks of three eggs with a half cup butter and one cup 
sugar; now stir up the flour prepared as above with water, making 
a dough of the proper consistency for bread; then add the eggs, 
butter and sugar, and mix all well together. Form into little cakes 
and rub the tops with sugar and water, and then sprinkle dry sugar 
over them and bake immediately. 

Scones. 

Thoroughly mix one quart sifted flour, two heaping te«.ispoonful8 
baking powder; then rub into one-fourth pound butter and enough 
sweet milk to make a smooth paste; roll out the paste to one-fourth 
of an inch in thickness and cut it into triangular pieces, each side of 
which is about four inches long; put them into a greased tin and 
bake immediately in a very hot oven; when half done, brush them 
over with sweet milk. 

Scotch Scones. 

Sift together one quart flour, one teaspoonful sup;ar, one-half 
teaspoonful salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder; rub in 
a large tablespoonful lard cold; add two beaten eggs' and nearly 
one-half pint milk; mix into a smooth dough, knead up quickly and 
roll out to one-third of an inch in thickness, cut out with a knife 
into squares larger than soda crackers, fold each in half to form 
three-cornered pieces, bake on a hot griddle eight or ten ^ninutes; 
brown on each side. 

Sally Lunn. 

One quart of flour, a piece of butter the size of an egg, three 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, two teacups of milk, two* tea- 
spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda, and a little salt. Scatter 
the cream of tartar, the sugar and the salt into the flour; add 
the eggs, the butter melted and one cuj) of milk ; dissol^ft th» 



SANDWICHES. "i^ 

soda in the remaining cup, and stir all together steadily a few 
moments. Bake in two round pans. 

Sally Lunn, No. 2. 

Sift together one quart flour, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoon- 
fuls baking powder; rub in two-thirds cup butter cold; add four 
beaten eggs, one-half pint milk; mix into a firm batter like cup 
rake, pour into two round cake tins, and bake twenty-five minutes 
in a pretty hot oven. 

Plain Short Cake. 

One quart flour, one saltspoonful salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls 
leaking powder; mix thoroughly; then add one-quarter pound 
butter, and one-eighth pound lard, and enough cold water to make 
a thick paste. Roll out about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut 
into squares; prick with a fork and bake immediately. 

Scotch Short Cake. 
Sift together one and a half pints flour, four tablespoonf uls sugar, 
one-half teaspoonful salt, a heaping teaspoonful baking powder; 
rub in four tablespoonf uls butter cold, add three beaten eggs, nearly 
one cupful milk, a teaspoonful extract of orange, or lemon; mix 
into a smooth dough without much handling, and roll out to the 
thickness of a quarter inch, and cut into shape of small envelopes; 
wash over with milk, and lay on each three thin slices of citron, 
and a few caraway seeds. Bake in a moderate oven twenty 
minutes. 



SANDWICHES. 

Ham Sandwiches. 
Take Wtall-boiled ham, one-third fat and two-thirds lean, chop it 
until it is as fine as paste, then stir in the yolk of an egg. To one 
teaspoonful mustard, mix one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce. 
Use this or more in such proportions as you may require. 
4 



50 SANDWICHES. 

Egg Sandwiches. 

Take slices of buttered bread and grate hard-boiled eggs on 
each slice with a coarse grater, sprinkle with pepper and salt; then 
lay two slices together. 

This sandwich may be varied by grating a layer of cold smoked 
tongue or ham over the egg on one slice and not on the other. 
These require a light and dexterous hand to keep the egg from 
being crushed. 

Saedine Sandwiches. 

Open a can of sardines, remove the skin and bones, lay bits of the 
fish on well-spread bread and butter; squeeze lemon over it; lay a 
slice of buttered bread on top. 

School Lunch Sandwiches. 

Beat three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of milk, saltspoonful r^f 
salt, and a dash of pepper; fry it as you would a griddle cake, and 
lay between buttered bread or biscuit, or slice hard-boiled eggw or 
nice stewed codfish left cold, and lay between slices of bread and 
butter. 

Oyster Sandwiches. 

Chop one quart raw oysters very fine, season with pepper, salt, 
a little nutmeg; mix with one-half cupful melted butter, the same 
of rich cream, whites of three eggs beaten, and eight powdered 
crackers. Heat them over steam in an oatmeal boiler or over the 
fire until a smooth paste; set away until very cold; then cut and 
lay between buttered slices of bread. 

Tongue or Ham Sandwiches. 
Chop fine the lean of cold boiled tongue or ham, season with 
prepared mustard and black pepper; add melted butter and sweet 
cream until smooth like a paste, then spread between buttered 
slices of bread. 



TOAST 51 



TOAST. 



Cream Toast. 
Take slices of stale bread, one quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls 
butter, whites of three eggs beaten stiff, salt, and three tablespoon- 
fuls flour. Toast the bread to a golden brown, have a dish half 
full of boiling water in which a tablespoonful of butter has been 
melted; as each slice is toasted dip it in this for a second and lay 
in the deep heated dish in which it is to be served. Have ready, 
by the time the bread is all toasted, the milk scalding hot, but not 
boiling; thicken this with the flour; let simmer until cooked; put 
In the remaining butter, and when this is melted the beaten whites 
of the eggs; boil up once and pour over the toast, lifting the slices 
that the cream may run between; cover closely; set in the oven a 
few moments before sending to the table. 

Breakfast Toast. 

Mix two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, and a well-beaten 
egg, in one-half pint of milk. In this mixture dip slices of bread 
and fry them on a buttered griddle until they are light brown on 
each side. 

Cheese and Egg Toast. 

Put a cupful of cheese crumbs into half a pint of rich milk; boil 
until it melts. Have two eggs well beaten. Season the milk with 
salt, pepper and butter to taste; turn in the eggs; stir rapidly for 
a few minutes; remove from the fire and spread it over some hot 
slices of toasted bread. Cut them in halves and quarters and serve 
on a hot platter. 

Ham Toast. 

Melt in a stew pan a small piece of butter till it is browned a 
little; put in as much finely-minced ham as will cover a round of 
buttered toast, and add gravy enough to make moist. When quite 
hot stir in quickly with a fork one egg. Plane the mixture orer 
the toast, which cut into pieces of any shape you may fancy. 



52 WAFFLES. 

Spanish Toast. 

Beat three eggs to a foam; toast a few slices of bakers' bread; 
dip them in the egg, and fry them to a light brown. 

Feied Bread. 
Take dry bread, dip it in hot water quickly, and lay on a hot 
pancake griddle, which has some lard or butter melted, salt; when 
nicely browned on one side, turn on the other and brown; add 
more butter when needed. Some prefer the bread dipped in egg 
first. 



WAFFLES. 

One quart of sweet milk, warm, four eggs, a piece of butter the 
size of an egg, one teaspoonful of salt, teacup of yeast, flour enough 
to make a stiff batter; let it rise three hours. Bake in waffle-irons. 

Waffles, No. 2. 

Four eggs, whites beaten separately; two tablespoonfuls short- 
ening, one quart milk, one teaspoonful soda, salt; add the whites 
last; add two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar to flour enough to mak© 
thin batter. 

Waffles, No. 3. 

One pint sour cream (or part milk), two eggs, one spoonful soda, 
half spoonful salt; then make same as above. 

Waffles, No. 4. 

One pint of buttermilk, flour enough to make a thin batter, one 
tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda; mix your milk, flour 
and salt, then sift the soda over the batter; break the white of one 
egg in a plate and put the yolk in the batter; beat in well; now 
whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth and stir in thoroughly — 
do not beat it in. Have the waffle-iron smoking hot and grease 
with lard or other grease, which should be free from either y^ater 



WAFFLES. 53 

or salt, as both make the Avaffles stick. If the milk be very sour, 
use more soda to sweeten it. Sour batter will stick to the irons, too. 

Bread Waffles. 
Crusts and pieces can be put in a pitcher and milk poured over 
them; when needed, add more milk, and a little flour, to make the 
right consistency; enough soda to make sweet, salt, and make waf- 
fles, or pancakes. 

Rice Waffles. 
One and one-half cups of boiled rice, the same of flour, one cup 
sour milk, a scant teaspoonful soda, a little salt, three eggs, and 
butter the size of a walnut. 

Geaham Wafers. 

Put a pinch of salt into one-half pound of Graham flour; wet it 
with one-half pint of sweet cream; mix quickly and thoroughly; 
roll out as thin as possible; cut in strips, prick, and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Sweet Wafers, 

One pint flour, one cup sugar, three eggs, one tablespoonful 
butter; flavor with lemon; mix into a batter with a little milk to 
tne consistency of sponge cake, and bake in wafer-irons. 




CHAPTER IV. 

€akt. 

OW ESSENTIAL, in making good cake, 
that every ingredient is of the best, and 
much care taken. The flour should be 
dry and white and well sifted; the sugar 
white, well rolled and sifted; eggs should 
be fresh and above suspicion; any fruit to 
be used should be well looked over, and 
usually washed and dried to prevent mak- 
ing the cake heavy. To dry, rub in dry- 
cloth; this also takes off stems. The milk may be used either 
sour or sweet, but never mix them; sweet milk makes cake more 
solid, sour milk makes it more spongy. 

When sour milk is called for in the recipe, use only soda. 
Cakes made with molasses burn much more easily than those 
made with sugar. Saleratus and soda should be well dissolved 
in hot water and strained before they are stirred into the cake. 

Where the recipe calls for baking powder, and you have none, 
you can use cream tartar and soda in the j^roportion of one level 
teaspoonful of soda to two heaping teaspoonfuls of cream tartar. 
The whites and yolk of eggs should be beaten separately, the 
yolks to a thick cream, the whites until they are a stiff froth. 
Always stir the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the beaten 
yolks, then the milk, the flavoring, then the beaten whites, the 
flour last. If fruit is to be used, measure and dredge with a 
little sifted flour, stir in gradually and thoroughly. 

Never stir cake after the butter and sugar is creamed, but beat 
it down from the bottom, up, and over; this causes the dough to 
puff and swell when it comes in contact with the heat while cooking. 

54 



CAKE. 55 

Apple Cake. 

Two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one and one-half 

cups sugar, scant three-fourths cup butter, half cup sweet milk, 

three cups flour, one teaspoonful cream of tartar sifted in the flour, 

one-half teaspoonful soda in the milk. Bake in jelly tins or cut for 

dressing. 

Dressing for Same. 

Three good sized sour apples grated, the juice and grated rind of 
one lemon, one egg beaten, one cup sugar. Cook all together three 
minutes and spread between the layers. 

Angels' Food. 

Take the whites of eleven eggs, one and one-half tumblerf uls of 
granulated sugar, one tumblerful of flour, one teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar; sift the flour four 
times, then add the cream of tartar, and sift again; but have the 
right measure before putting in the cream of tartar. Sift the sugar 
and measure. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large platter; on 
the same platter add the sugar lightly, then the flour very gently, 
then the vanilla; do not stop beating until you put it in the pan to 
bake; bake forty minutes in a very moderate oven, try with a 
straw, and if too soft, let it remain a few minutes longer. Turn 
the pan upside down to cool, and when cold, take out by loosening 
around the sides with a knife. Use a pan that has never been 
greased, and there must be on the edge three projections of tin aai 
inch or two deep, so that there will be a space between the pan 
and the table when it is turned upside down. The tumbler for 
measuring must hold two and one-quarter gills. 

Andalusia Sponge Cake. 
Three eggs, well beaten, one cup white sugar, one cup flour, and 
one teaspoonful baking powder; flavor to suit the taste. Beat 
quickly and bake at once. 

Black Fruit Cake. 
Two pounds raisins, one pound currants, one-half pound citron. 



56 



CAKE. 



four cups sugar, two cups butter, one cuj^ molasses, eight eggs, two 
teaspoonfuls soda, one wine glass brandy, five cups flour, spice to 
taste. Half of this receipt makes two small loaves. 

Bkide Cake. 
The whites of sixteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one pound of 
sugar, one pound of flour, one-half pound of butter. Flavor with 
almond. Mix the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the eggs, 
then the flour. 

Bride Cake, No. 2. 

One and one-half pounds butter, one and three-fourths pounds 
sugar (half New Orleans sugar), two pounds eggs well-beaten, four 
pounds raisins seeded and chopped, English currants, thoroughly- 
cleaned, five pounds, citron shaved fine two pounds, sifted flour 
two pounds, two nutmegs, and an equal quantity of mace, one gill 

of alcohol, in which are put fif- 
teen drops of oil of lemon. Cut 
the butter in pieces and put it 
where it will soften; stir it to 
a cream, then add the sugar 
and work till white; next beat 
the yolks of the eggs, and add 
them to the sugar and butter; 
have the whites beaten to a 
stiff froth and add them to 
^thc mixture, then the spicea 
'and flour, and last of all the 
fruit except the citron, which 
is to be put in in about three layers, one an inch from the bottom, 
one an inch from the top, and one between; smooth the top of 
the cake by putting on a spooonf ul of water. Bake three or four 

hours. 

Bread Cake. 

Four cups light dough, two cups sugar, one cup butter, three 

eggs, one cup raisins, a little nutmeg, one-half teaspoenful cloves. 




CAKE. 57 

the same of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful soda, dissolved in hot 
water. Let it rise a short time before baking, then put in the 
raisins and bake in a very slow oven. 

Black Cake. 
• Two cups brown sugar, one cup butter, one cup molasses, one 
cup sour milk, in which dissolve one teaspoonful soda, the yolks o^ 
«ight eggs, four cups of browned flour, and spice to your taste. 

Bridgeport Cake. 
One cup butter, two cups brown sugar, one cup sour milk, three 
and one-half cups flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful saleratus, one 
cup raisins, spice and one glass brandy. 

BUTTERNXTT CaKE. 

One and one-half cups sugar, one-half cup butter, two cups flour, 
three-fourths cup sweet milk, one cup meats of nuts, whites of four 
egg», and two teaspoonf uls baking powder. 

Boston Cream Cake. 

One-half pint water, one-fourth pound butter, six ounces flour, 
fiv^ eggs. Boil the butter and water together, adding the flour 
while they are boiling; when thoroughly stirred take it from the 
fire; when it is cold add the eggs, one at a time, beating the 
mixture until it is entirely free from lumps. Wet the baking pai> 
with a little soda watei', drop the mixture onto the pan by spoon 
f uIb. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven ; avoid opening the oveu 
door while baking. When the cakes are cool, open them on one 
side and fill with the following mixture: One cup sugar, one-half 
cup flour, two eggs, and one pint milk. Beat the eggs, sugar, and 
flour together, and stir them into the milk while it is boiling, stir 
riug constantly until it thickens; when cold, flavor to suit the taste 

CocoAKUT Cake. 

Two beaten eggs, one cup sugar, rolled fine, one-third cup butter, 
one-half cup milk, two cups flour, sifted with two teaspoonf uls 
baking powder. Bake in layers and put together with frosting 



58 CAKE. 

and a layer of desiccated cocoanut whicli has been previously 
soaked in milk; frost the top of the cake and sprinkle thickly with 
the cocoanut. 

Cocoanut Cake, No. 2. 

One cup butter, three cups sugar, whites of six eggs, four and 
one-half cups sifted flour, two and one-half teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, one grated cocoanut, and one cup milk. Rub the butter 
and sugar to a cream, add the whites of the eggs, then the milk; mix 
the baking powder with the flour by sifting. After all are mixed 
together put in the cocoanut, mixing thoroughly, and bake imme- 
diately. This cake will keep for some time, retaining its freshness. 

Chocolate Cake. 
One-half cup butter, two cups sugar, four eggs, one cup sweel 
milk, two teaspoonfuls ci-eam of tartar, one teaspoonful soda, one 
teaspoonful vanilla. Bake in layers. 

Paste for Same. — One-half cake chocolate warmed in the oven 
ten minutes, one heaping teaspoonful white sugar, one teaspoon- 
ful cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves, a pinch of ginger, 
and two teaspoonfuls vanilla. Pour a little water on the sugar, put 
it on the chocolate, heat on the stove and put in the spice when 
boiled. 

Corn Starch Cake. 

Take whites of three eggs, one cup white sugar, one-third cup 
butter, one-half cup milk, one cup flour, one cup corn starch, one 
teaspoonful soda and two of cream of tartar; flavor with lemon or 
vanilla. 

Corn Starch Cafe, ISTo. 2. 

Whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, one cup butter, two 
cups sugar, one cup sweet milk, one cup corn starch, two cups 
flour, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda; flavor 
to suit the taste. 



CAKE. 59* 

Coffee Cake. 
Take two eggs, well beaten, one-half cup butter, one-half cup 
sugar, one cup molasses, one cup strong cold coffee, one teaspoonf ul 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful cloves, one teaspoonful allspice, one 
teaspoonf ul soda stirred into the molasses, one cup of raisins, flour 
to make of the consistency of pound cake. 

Chocolate Eclairs. 

Make a batter as for " Boston Cream Cake," form it with a spoon 
on the baking pan into long narrow cakes, leaving a space between; 
when baked and cold make an opening in the side and put in the 
cream, which must also be cold. Make the cream as follows: 
Break, dissolve, and mix smoothly one ounce of chocolate with three 
tablespoonfuls warm water in a bowl; set over a boiling tea-kettle, 
add gradually a cup of milk and leave it to scald; beat one egg and 
add to it one-half cup of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls corn starch; 
mix well and stir into the scalded milk, then put the whole into the 
bowl over the boiling water, and stir till it is much thicker than 
boiled custard; add a very little salt and half a teaspoonful of 
vanilla; after filling the cakes with the custard, ^'rost with hot 
icing with two ounces of chocolate dissolved in it. ^ rost the top 
only. 

Charlotte Cachee. 

One thick loaf of sponge or plain cup cake, two kinds of fruit- 
jelly, tart and sweet, whites of five eggs, one heaping cup of pow- 
dered sugar, juice of one lemon. Cut the cake into horizontal slices 
of uniform width; spread each with jelly — first the tart, then the 
sweet — and fit into their former places; ice thickly with a frosting 
made of the whites, sugar, and lemon-juice; set in a sunny window 
or slow oven, to harden. The former is the better plan. 

Older Cake. 
One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, one egg, well-beaten, one 
large cup of cider, one teaspoonful of soda, flour sufficient to make 



'60 CAKE. 

it as thick as pound cake. One cup of raisins can be added if 
desired. 

Cake Without Eggs. 

One cup butter, three cups sugar, one pint sour milk or cream, 
three cups flour, one pound raisins, one teaspoonful saleratus; spice 
to taste. 

Ceeam Puffs. 

Melt one-half cup of butter in a cup of hot water, and while 
boiling beat in one cup of flour. Take it from the fire and when 
•cool stir in three eggs, one at a time, without beating them. Drop 
the mixture on tins in small spoonfuls and bake in a moderate oven. 

Custard for the Filling. — One and one-half cups of milk, two 
«gg8, four tablespoonfuls of flour, sugar to the taste, and flavor 
with vanilla. Beat up the eggs and sugar and stir in the milk with 
the flavoring, and when it comes to a boil stir in the flour, previ- 
ously mixed smooth in a little milk. Cool and fill the puffs by 
■opening them a very little. 

Citron Cake. 

One cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, one 
cup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, and a 
pinch of salt Make the cake as above, put in the pan, cut the 
citron thin and put in the cake endways; push down until the 
batter covers the citron, and this will prevent the citron from falling 
to the bottom of the pan. 

Ceeam Cake. 

Three eggs, one cup of sugar, one cup of flour, one teaspoonful 
«f baking powder, one-half cup of sweet cream. Bake like jelly 
cake. Put one cup of pulverized white sugar into one-half cup of 
very thick sweet cream, and spread between the cakes; flavor both 
the cake and cream to suit taste. This is delicious. 
Chocolate Cake, Ko. 2. 

One cup white sugar, one-half cup sweet milk, one-half cup 
melted butter, whites of four eggs beaten stiff, one and ono-half 



CAKE. (51 

cups flour, with three teaepoonfuls of baking powder sifted in. 
Bake on three tins. Take whites of two eggs and make a frosting 
as for any other cake; add one teaspoonful vanilla and two-thirds 
cake of German sweet chocolate grated. Spread between layers 
but not on the top one. Take white of one egg to ice the top and 
sides. Do not frost the cake until cool. The same cake recipe may 
be used for cocoanut. 

Christmas Cake. 
Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a dessert-spoonful of salt, 
rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter and one pound of lard. 

Put in half a pint of good 
fresh brewers' yeast, and 
knead as for common bread. 
If there is any difficulty 
about the yeast, baking pow- 
der may be used, allowing 
a heaped teaspoonf ul of ordi- 
nary baking powder for every 
pound of material. If yeast 
is used, let the dough rise 
before adding the other in- 
Chhjstmas Cake. gredients. Mix in three 

pounds of currants, one and one-half pounds of moist sugar, a 
whole nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peel finely 
minced, a tablespoonful of brandy, and four eggs, well-beaten. 
Butter the mold and bake in a moderate oven for about two 
hours. 

Cinnamon Cake. 
Three-fourths of a cup of butter, a cup of white sugar, one and 
one-half cups flour, four eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), 
a tablespoonful of sweet milk, one and one-half teaspoonf uls baking 
powder, lemon, and a little salt. Rub the baking powder into th»' 
flour. . 




t)l> CAKE. 

Cinnamon Cake. 
One cup sour cream, one cup sugar, one-half cup melted butter, 
one egg, one-half teaspoonful soda. Mix as for cookies, roll out, 
and spread ground cinnamon over the top; then roll up as a roll 
jelly cake and slice off with a sharp knife and bake. Any good 
cookie recipe will do. 

Cup Cake. 

Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add 
four beaten eggs, and three cups of flour, into which one and one- 
half teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted, season with 
extract of almonds; mix into a smooth batter and bake in well- 
greased cups or muffin pans. 

Coooanut Pound Cake. 

Beat half a pound of butter to a cream; add gradually one pound 
of powdered sugar, four well-beaten eggs, one pound of flour sifted 
with two tablespoonfuls baking powder, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon- 
ful of grated lemon peel, one-fourth pound of prepared cocoanut, 
and a cup of milk; mix thoroughly, butter the tins, and line them 
with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of one and 
one-half inches, and bake in a good oven; when baked spread ioing 
over them. Return the cake to the oven a moment to dry the ioing. 

Clove Cake. 

One pound of brown sugar, one pound of flour, one pound of 
raisins, one-half pound of butter, one cup of milk, two large tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder stirred well into the flour, one table- 
spoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful cinnamon, one tablespoonful 
of nutmeg, four eggs; chop the raisins. For less quantity divide 
proportionately. 

Delicate Cake. 

One and one-half cups of granulated sugar, one cup of butter, 
two-thirds cup of milk, whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
three even cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder pff 



CAKE. 63 

in the flour and mixed; stir butter and sugar well together, to them 
add the milk, then put in the flour, and last add the beaten eggs; 
flavor with lemon. Stir the whole mixture well. 

Delicious Cake. 
Two cups of white sugar, one cup of butter, one cup milk, three 
eggs, one teaspoonful soda, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, three 
cups of sifted flour. Stir butter and sugar together, then add the 
beaten yolks of the eggs, then the beaten whites; dissolve the soda 
in the milk, rub the cream of tartar into the flour and add; flavor 
with extract of bitter almond. 

Drop Cake. 
One pound of sugar, three-fourths of a pound of butter, one and 
one-fourth pounds flour, five eggs. To be dropped by the table- 
spoonful on buttered pans and baked. 

DouGii Cake. 
Two cups light dough, two cups sugar, one cup butter, half cup 
milk, two eggs, one and a half cups flour, one teaspoonful soda, one 
cup raisins; flavor with nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Dover Cake. 

Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add six 
eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, 
one cup of milk, one and one-half pints of flour, sifted with two 
teaspoonfuls baking powder; season with one teaspoonful each of 
extract of cinnamon and orange; bake in rather hot oven forty 
minutes. 

Dundee Cake. 

Whip to a cream one and one-half cups of butter and the same 
amount of sugar; add eight eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes 
between each addition, one-half cup of cream or milk, one and one- 
half pints of flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
one-half of a lemon peel cut in thin slices, one cup of washed, 
picked, and dried currants, one and one-half cups sultana raisins, 



64 CAKE. 

one teaspoonf 111 each of extract nutmeg, cloves, and vanilla; mix 
into a firm batter, pour into a shallow, square cake pan; chop one 
cup of almonds coarsely and sprinkle over the top; then bake one 
hour in a moderate oven. 

Dried Apple Cake. 

Two cups of dried apples, chopped fine and soaked in water over 
night, then cook in one cup of molasses until soft; add one cup 
each of butter, sugar, and sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one 
teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves and lemon extract, one nut- 
meg. A cup of raisins may be added. Bake in a greased cake 
dish in a moderate oven. Flour for stiff batter. 

Election Cake. 

Beat one and one-half cups of butter and two cups of sugar to a 
"white, light cream; add three eggs, beating a little longer, one and 
one-half pints of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
two cups of raisins, stoned, one cup of currants well cleaned, one- 
half cup chopped citron, one-half of a lemon peel, chopped, one-half 
cup of almonds, blanched and cut into shreds, one teaspoonful each 
of extract of vanilla and of bitter almonds, one cup of milk; mix 
into a consistent batter, put into a paper-lined tin and bake in a 
moderate, steady oven one and one-half hours. 

Everyday Fruit Cake. 
One cup of -butter, two cups of sugar, two cups of sour milk, two 
cups of raisins, five cups of flour, one teaspoonful saleratus, salt, 
cinnamon, cloves, citron and wine to suit the taste. 

Egoless Cake. 
One and one-half cups of sugar, one cup of sour milk, three levej 
cups of flour, one-half cup of butter, one teaspoonful of soda, one* 
half teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of grated nat' 
ueg, and one cup of chopped raisins. 

English Christmas Cake. 
Sift five pounds of flour; mix with it one tablespoonful of sblt. 



CAKE. 65' 

one and one-half pounds of butter and half a pint of fresh brewer's 
yeast, or five teaspoonfuls of baking powder; if yeast is used, allow 
dough to rise before adding other ingredients; mix in three pounds 
of washed currants, one and one-half pounds of " A " sugar, one 
nutmeg grated, one-fourth pound of chopped candied lemon peel, 
one wine glass of brandy, and four well-beaten eggs; butter the 
tins and line them with buttered paper; bake in a moderate oven 
for two hours. The quantity of brandy recommended will serve to 
keep these cakes fresh for an indefinite time. 

Fruit Cake from Dough. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one prnt of dough, two 
eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, as much fruit as you wish, spices to 
suit the taste; use flour enough to make as stiff as common fruit 
cake; set in a warm place to raise. "When light bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Feuit Cake. 

One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one pound of flour„ 
eight eggs, two pounds of raisins, one pound of currants, one-fourth 
pound of citron, one tablespoonful of molasses, one cup of sour 
milk, one teaspoonful of soda, and spices of all kinds. Bake two. 
hours in a moderate oven. 

Fruit Cake, No. 2. 
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three and a half cups of 
flour, one cup of molasses, one cup of cream, four eggs, one pound 
of raisins, citrons and currants according to taste, one teaspoonful 
of saleratus, spice to taste. Warranted to keep a year. 

Fruit Jelly Cake. 
Two cups of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, same of sweet milk, 
four eggs, three cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder; 
stir together, then divide into three equal parts. Into one part stir 
one tablespoonful of molasses, one cup of chopped raisins, one tea- 
spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Bake, and put 
together with jelly or frosting. 



66 CAKE. 

Ginger-Beead. 
One pint of molasses, one glass of sour milk or cream, one table- 
spoonful of soda, one-half pint of melted lard; put the soda into 
the milk and molasses and beat to a foam. Make the dough very 
soft. 

Soft Ginger-Bread. 

One cup of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of sour cream, one 
cup of New Orleans molasses, four cups of sifted flour, one table- 
spoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda, the grated rind of one 
lemon, three eggs, well beaten; stir the butter and sugar together, 
then add eggs, milk and flour. 

Soft Ginger-Bread, No. 2. 

One coffeecup each of sugar, molasses, and butter, four cups of 
flour, one cup of sour milk, two large teaspoonf uls of ginger, two 
teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, one tea- 
spoonful of saleratus dissolved in the sour milk; stoned raisins may 
be added. Bake in sponge-cake tins. 

Ginger Cup Cake. 

Mix two cups of powdered sugar with two cups of warmed 
butter; add three well-beaten eggs, a cup of molasses, four heaping 
cups of flour, a tablespoonful of fresh-ground ginger, one teaspoon- 
ful of dissolved saleratus; mix thoroughly and pour into buttered 
molds or patty pans; bake in a moderate oven. 

Groom's Cake. 

Ten eggs beaten separately, one pound each of butter, white 
sugar, and flour, two pounds of almonds blanched and chopped fine, 
one pound of seeded raisins, one-half pound of citron shaved fine; 
beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually, then the well- 
beaten yolks; stir all till very light, then add the chopped almonds; 
beat the whites stiff and add gently with the flour; take a little 
more flour and sprinkle over the raisins and citron, then put in the 
cake pan, first a layer of cake batter, then a layer of raisins and 



CAKE. 



67 



citron, then cake, and so on until all is used, finishing off with a 
layer of cake. Bake in moderate oven two hours. 

Geaham Cup Cake. 
Rub to a light cream tw -thirds cup of butter and one cup of 
sugar, add two beaten ggs, one-half cup of cream, two cups of 
Graham flour, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, one tea- 
epoonfui of extract of lemon; mix into a moderately thin batter; 
bake m well-greased cups, or muffin pans, in a moderate oven. 

Hickory-nut Cake. 
Two cups of white sugar, one-half cnp of butter, three cups of 
flour, three-fourths cup of sweet milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in the milk, one teaspoo ful of cream of tartar put into 
the flour, the whites of eight eggs. Just before baking add two 
oups of hickory-nut meats. 

Hickory-nut Drop Cake. 
Whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth; add one pound of 
rolled sugar, one up of hickory-nut meats, one teaspoonful of 
baking powder, with flour to stiffen so as to drop. Drop by spoon- 
fuls on a buttered tin and bake in a quick oven. 

Huckleberry Cake. 
Rub togetker one cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add four 
beaten eggs, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with two tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, .ne up of milk, two cups of huckle- 
berries, one teaspoonful each ol extract of cinnamon, cloves and 
allspice; put in a paper-lined bake tin and bake in a quick oven 
fifty minutes. 

Honey Cake. 

Mix together one cup of honey and one cup of sugar; add one- 
half cup of melted butter, two beaten eggs, one pint flour sifted 
with two teaspoonf uls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of cara- 
way seeds. Mix into a smooth batter and bake in a hot oven 
thirty minutes. 



68 CAKE. 

Imperial Cake. 
One pound each of sugar and flour, three-fourths pound of butter, 
Dne pound of almonds blanched and cut fine, one-half pound of 
citron, one-half pound of raisins, the rind and juice of one lemon, 
one nutmeg and ten eggs. 

Ice-Cream Cake. 
To the whites of five eggs, lightly beaten, add two cups of sugar, 
one cup of butter, one cup of milk, three cups of flour, and three 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder; bake in thin layers and use as a 
cream, to spread between, two and a half cups of sugar and one- 
half cup of water boiled together; beat the whites of three eggs to 
a stiff froth, and when the syrup will hair, pour it into the whites 
and stir as fast as possible; flavor with lemon or vanilla and spread 
between the layers and over the top. 

Jelly Cake. 

Beat to a cream three-fourths cup of butter and two cups of 
sugar; add five eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between 
each addition, one and one-fourth pints of flour sifted with one and 
one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one cup of milk; mix to a 
smooth batter and bake in jelly-cake tins; spread with currant or 
Other fruit jelly. 

Jelly Rolls. 

One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful 
baking powder. Stir well and spread thin on a long baking tin or 
dripping pan. Bake quickly, turn out on a cloth, spread with jelly 
and roll up. 

Kappee Kuchek. 

One pound light raised dough, one ounce of sugar and three of 
butter, one egg; cream the butter and beat well with the sugar and 
the egg; add the dough and mix thoroughly with the hand; put it 
in a warm place to rise; when light, pour it in a small dripping pan 
(when baked it should not be more than two-thirds of an inch thick) 



CAKE 69 

and let it stand ten or fifteen minutes; put in the oven and while 
baking prepare this icing: 

Blanch two almonds and shred them; add to the beaten whites 
of two eggs one cup of sugar; stir in the almonds, and when the 
cake is baked cover it with the icing and dry in the oven. Th« 
almonds may be browned a little if liked. 

Knickeebockee Cake. 

Beat one-half pound of fresh butter to a cream; add one-half 
pound of powdered sugar, three-fourths pound of sifted flour, a 
tablespoonful of orange-flour water, and one of brandy, and four 
ounces of washed currants; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the 
mixture until very light. Line some shallow cake tins with but- 
tered paper, pour in the mixture until they are one-half full, and 
bake in a quick oven. 

Lemon Cakb. 

Five eggs beaten with three cups of sugar and one of butter, one 
cup of milk, five cups of sifted flour, one lemon rind grated, half a 
teaspoonful soda dissolved well in the milk, and one teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar in the flour; after all is well beaten, add the juice 
of the lemon and bake immediately. 

Lemon Cake, No. 2. 
To four well-beaten eggs, add two cups sugar, two tablespoonfuU 
butter, one-half cup of milk, two cups of flour sifted with two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder; bake in jelly tins and put together 
with a frosting made of the white of one egg, the juice and grated 
rind of one lemon, and sugar enough to stiffen. 

Lemon Jelly Cakb. 

Beat together two eggs, one cup of sugar, one-third cup of butter, 
one-half cup milk, two cups flour sifted, with a heaping teaspoonful 
baking powder; bake in jelly-cake tins. 

Jellt/ for Same. — Two-thirds cup of water, one cup sugar, the 
juice and grated rind of one lemon; mix together and let boil; than 



70 CAKE. 

stir in two well-beaten eggs. When cold, spread between the 
layers of cake; also upon the top, or the top may be frosted. 

Lady Cake. 
Rub to a cream two-thirds cup of butter and three cups of sugar; 
add one cup of milk, one pint flour, one-half teaspoonf ul of baking 
powder, one teaspoonf ul extract of bitter almond; then add tha 
whites of eight eggs whipped to a froth; when thoroughly mixed, 
put into a paper-lined tin and bake in a steady oven forty niinuteeii 
When cool, ice the bottom and sides with white icing. 

Lunch Cake. 

Beat thoroughly two cups of butter and two cups of sugar; ad4 
two cups of egg well beaten, one and one-half pints of flour sifted 
with a heaping teaspoonful baking powder, one gill of wnie, one 
teaspoonf ul each of extract of rose, cinnamon and nutmeg; mix into 
a smooth batter and bake in a moderate oven one hour; when cold, 
ice with white icing. 

Light Cake. 

Beat six eggs, yolks and whites separately; beat with the yolks 
one pound white sugar, and three-fourths pound of butter; add one 
pound of flour sifted with a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one 
«up sweet milk with one-half teaspoonful of soda, one pound raisins, 
a little citron, and lemon peel, then the whites of the eggs beaten 
to a froth. Bake in a paper-lined cake tin one hour in a moderate 
«ven. 

Loaf Cake. 

Six cups of bread dough, five eggs, three cups of sugar, one cup 
of butter, two teaspoonfuls of ground cloves and cinnamon mixed, 
and half of a nutmeg, one and one-half pounds of l*aisms. Bake in 
a moderate oven. 

Marbled Cake, 

Light part: One and one-half cups of white sugar, one-half cup 
of butter, one-half cup of sweet milk, one half teaspoonful of soda. 



CAKE, 71 

one tcaspoonful cream of tartar sifted with two and one-half cups 
flour, whites of four eggs; beat and n)ix thoroughly. 

Dark part: One; cup of brown sugar, one-half cuj) of butter, one- 
half cup of sour milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda, two and one- 
half cups of flour, yolks of four eggs, one-half teaspoonful each of 
cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg. 

With a spoon droj) the two batters alternately into a papered 
cake-tin. 

Mountain Cake. 

One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sweet 
milk, one-half cup of corn starch, one cup of flour, whites of six 
eggs, a little vanilla, two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bako in 
layers. 

I^^-osting for ^6oue.— Whites of five eggs, twenty tablespooa- 
fuls sifted sugar, beaten very light, and a little vanilla. Spread 
between layers and on the outside of the cake. 

MAnEiRA Cakk. 
Beat together two and one-half cups of butter and two cups of 
sugar; add seven well-beaten eggs, one and one-half pints flour 
sifted with one heaping teaspoonful baking powder; mix with one 
gill of Madeira wine into a smooth batter and bake in a paper-lined 
cake-tin in a steady oven about one hour, and ice with transparent 

icing. 

Molasses Cake. 

Beat together one cup of butter and one cup of brown sugar; add 

one-half cup of molasses, one cup of milk, one egg, one and one-half 

pints of flour sifted with one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking 

powder; mix into a consistent batter and bake about forty minutes. 

Molasses Cake. 
Beat together one-half cup of sugar, a piece of butter the size of 
an egg, and one egg; add one-half cup of molasses, one-half cup of 
Bour milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda, two cups of flour, sifted, 
epices to suit the taste, and a cup of chopped raisins. Bake in ft 
moderate oven. 



72 CAKE. 

Maebled Chocolate Cake. 
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three cups of flour, four 
'Well-beaten eggs, one cup of milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder; take out one cup of this batter and mix with four table- 
spoonfuls of chocolate dissolved with a little cream; cover the 
bottom of the pan with the white batter and drop upon it in places 
a spoonful of the chocolate, forming rings, then another layer of 
the batter, and so on until all is used. Bake in a moderate oven. 

MoBETON Farm Cake. 
Two pounds of butter, softened throughout, but not melted; add 
two pounds of nice, white, soft sugar, and mix together until 
creamed; take out one-half and reserve it in a separate bowl until 
wanted. To the rest add one quart of pretty warm, sweet milk; 
stir in gradually four pounds of flour, then mix in very thoroughly 
a teacupful of lively, home-made yeast. Let it stand in a warm 
place until very light, which will take about four hours; then add 
the remainder of the butter and sugar, and a little more flour if 
needed; add two pounds of raisins nicely stoned, a little pulverized 
mace, and, if at hand, some candied lemon peel; let it rise again, 
and when well raised mix it well, using the hands, and proportion 
it off into well-buttered pans; let them stand in a moderately warm 
place until beginning to rise; put them into a steady oven and bake 
them fully an hour, or longer if only one or two pans are used. 
There are no eggs used in this cake — none are needed. It is an 
excellent cake for economical housekeepers to make in winter, when 
eggs are scarce and high-priced. If the top and sides are frosted 
it will keep moist for a long time. Brown paper is mce to wrap 
oake in before putting it into the cake box. 

Nut Cake. 
One cup of butter, two cups of white sugar, four cups of flour, 
one cup of sweet milk, the whites of eight eggs, three teaspoonf ula 
of baking powder, and two cups of chopped nut meats. 



CAKE. 7J 

Nut Cake, No. 2. 
Two eggs, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter; beat together 
and add one-half cup of sweet milk, one and one-half cups of sifted 
flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one large cup of chopped 
•walnuts; frost when baked; mark in squares and put half a nut 
meat on each square. 

White Nut Cakb. 
Whites of twelve eggs beaten to a froth, one cup of butter, two 
cups of sugar, three and one-half cups of flour, teaspoonful of yeast 
powder. After the butter is well mixed add one large cocoanut, 
grated; one large tumblerful of the kernels of pecans, and one 
tumblerful of blanched almonds, the almonds to be elightlj 
mashed in a mortar, 

Neapolitan Cakb. 
Black: Take one cup of butter, two cups of brown sugar, on* 
cup of molasses, one cup of strong coffee, four and a half cups of 
sifted flour, four eggs, two teaspoonfuls of soda, two of cinnamon, 
two of cloves, one of mace, one pound of raisins, one of currants, 
and a quarter of a pound of citron. 

White: One cup of butter, four cups of white sugar, two cups 
of sweet milk, two cups corn-starch mixed with four and-a-half 
"Cups of sifted flour, whites of eight eggs, two tablespoonfuls of 
baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of extract of bitter almonds. 
Bake the cakes in round jelly pans with straight edges; the 
loaves should be one and a-half inches thick after baking. When 
the cake is cold, each black loaf should be spread with a thick coat- 
ing of lemon and sugar, made as follows: The white of one egg 
thoroughly beaten, the grated rind of two and the juice of three 
lemons; powdered sugar enough to make a thick frosting; lay a 
■white loaf on each black one and frost as you would any other cake. 

Lady Fingers. 
Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour; add half a 
pound of sugar; grate in the rind of two lemons, and squeeze in tk« 



74 CAKE. 

juice of one; then add three eggs; make into a roll the size of the 
middle finger; it will spread in the oven to the size of a thin cakej 
dip in chocolate icing. 

Obangb Cake. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, 
three cups of flour, yolks of two eggs and whites of five, three tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, grated peel and juice of one orange. 
Bake in four layers. 

Filling.— W\x\t&s of three eggs, juice of one orange, fifteen table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Beat together, spread between the layers and 
on the outside of cake. Pare and divide in small sections two 
oranges and put on top of cake. 

Orange Cake, No. 2. 
Three eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, one and a-half cups of 
sugar, two cups of flour, with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
sifted with the flour, one-half cup of rich milk, a very little salt, 
orange juice, or some extract of lemon. Bake on jelly-cake tins. 

Jelly for Orange Cake. — Take two good oranges, grate a part of 
the rind of one, then peel them and grate them all; remove the 
seeds and add one cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of water, and 
scald in a tin pail set in a kettle of hot water. Take one table- 
spoonful of corn starch, mix smooth with a few spoonfuls of cold 
water and stir into the orange and cook just enougli to cook the 
corn starch; when nearly or quite cold, beat the whites of two 
eggs and add powdered sugar for frosting; leave out a little of 
this for the top of the cake if you like, and stir the rest into the 
orange, and you will have a jelly that will not run off or soak into 
the cake. 

Perfection Cake. 

Three cups of sugar, three cups of flour, one cup of butter, one 
cup of milk, one cup of corn starch, the whites of twelve eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. Before sifting the flour put in three tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder; sift all together. Dissolve the com 



CAKE. 75 

starch in the milk and add it to the butter and sugar well beaten 
together; then add the flour and whites of the eggs. Never beat 
in a tin dish. 

PoBK Cakb. 
Take one pound fat salt pork free from lean or rind, chop as fine 
as to be almost like lard, pour upon it one-half pint of boiling 
water; add two cups of sugar, one cup of molasses, one teaspoonful 
of soda stirred into the molasses, one pound of raisins, one-fourth 
pound of citron shaved fine; stir in sifted flour enough to make of 
the consistency of common cake batter; season with one spoonful 
each of nutmeg and cloves and two teaspoonf uls cinnamon. Bake 
in a moderate oven. 

POETUGUESE CaKE. 

Beat together one and one-half cups of butter and four cups of 
sugar, add eight eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between 
each addition, one pint flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of 
baking powder, three cups of almonds blanched and pounded to a 
paste with a little water, one cup of seedless raisins, one cup of 
currants; season with nutmeg; mix into a batter and bake in a 
well-papered tin in a steady oven for one and one-half hours. 

Puff Cake. 
Two cups of sugar, three eggs, one cup 'of butter, one cup of 
Bweet milk, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of 
Boda, and three cups of flour. Bake in a quick oven. 

Pine-Apple Cake. 
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of milk, three cupa 
of flour, whites of six eggs and yolks of four, three teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder well mixed through flour; bake in jelly-cake pans; 
grate a pine-apple; sprinkle with sugar, spread between the layers; 
pine-apple jam may be substituted; frost the outside; beat two- 
tablespoonfuls of the pine-apple into the frosting. 



76 CAKE. 

Pound Cake without Soda. 
One pound of powdered sugar, one-half pound of butter, eight 
eggs, whites and yolks, beaten separately and well, ten ounces flour, 
one nutmeg. Bake one hour. 

CocoANUT Pound Cake. 
Beat one-half pound of butter to a cream; add gradually one 
•pound of sugar, one pound of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder, a pinch of salt, one teaspoonful of grated lemon 
peel, one-fourth pound of prepared cocoanut, four well-beaten eggs, 
one cup of milk; mix thoroughly; butter the tins and line them 
with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of one and 
one-half inches, and bake in a good oven; when baked, take out, 
gpread icing over them and return to the oven to dry the icing. 

Pound Cake. 
One and one-half cups of flour, one cup of butter, one and one- 
half cups of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat 
butter and flour to a cream; beat four eggs and sugar very light; 
put all together and add the baking powder. 

Plum Cake. 
Beat together two cups of butter, one cup of sugar, two eggs, one 
cup of molasses, one cup of sweet milk, one teaspoonful each of 
allspice, cinnamon and mace, one gill brandy, two pounds each of 
currants and raisins, one-half pound citron, one-half teaspoonful 
•oda. Flour to thicken. 

QuiNCY Cakb. 
One cup of butter, three cups of powdered sugar, four cupi of 
flour sifted with one and one-half teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one 
cup of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda, the juice and rind of 
one fresh lemon, whites of ten eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake 
one and one-half or two hours in a pan. 



CAKR 77- 

Queen Cake. 
One pound of sugar, one pound of flour sifted with a heaping 
teaspoonful of baking powder, three-fourths of a pound of butter, 
five eggs, one gill of sweet cream, one teaspoonful of extract of 
nectarine, one tablespoonful of water, and one grated nutmeg; beat 
the sugar and butter to a cream, add the eggs beaten very light, 
then the cream and flour, and lastly the flavoring. 

Railroad Cake. 
One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful soda, or one and one-half tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, a little salt; beat all together as for 
sponge cake, and spread on two square tins to bake. 

Reception Cake. 
Beat together two cups of butter and two cups of sugar; add ten 
beaten eggs, one quart of flour sifted with two teaspoonf uls of baking' 
powder, two cups of currants, one cup of shaved citron, one-half of 
an orange peel cut fine, one-half cup of blanched almonds cut fine; 
season with allspice and cinnamon; put into a paper-lined cake tin 
and bake in a moderate oven. 

Rice Cake. 

Beat together one-half cup of butter, two cups of sugar, and four 
eggs; add one-half cup of sweet cream; sift together one and one- 
half cups of rice flour, one and one-half cups of flour, and one heap- 
ing teaspoonful of baking powder; mix all together and season 
with lemon extract. Bake in patty pans in a hot oven. 

RocHESTEE Jelly Cake. 
Three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, two cups of 
sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, three cups of 
flour, one tablespoonful of baking powder. Take one-half of the 
above mixture and bake in two square pans, then add to the 
remainder one cup of stoned and chopped raisins, one-fourth 



78 CAKE. 

pound of citron shaved fine, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one nutmeg, 
one-half teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice, one tablespoouful 
each of molasses and flour. Bake ii\ like pans and place in alternate 
layers with raspberry jam or any kind of jelly. 

The same put together with frosting is called Ribbon Cake. 

Silver Cakk. 

Beat to a fi-oth the whites of six eggs; add two cups of sugar, 
two-thirds of a o\ip of butter; beat well together and add one cup 
of sweet milk with one teaspoonful of soda, two eups of tiour 
and one cup corn starch sifted with two teaspoonfuls of cream 
of tartar; flavor with any extract. 

The same made by substituting the yolks for the whites makes 
» nice gold cake. 

Snow Cakk. 

One cup of sugar, one and one-half oups of flour, one heapin|; 
teaspoonful of bakiug powder. Sift all together through a siere 
«nd add the whites of ten eggs beaten stiff. Bake in a quick oven. 

Swiss Cakk. 
One-quarter cup of butter, one and a half cups of sugar, two and 
©ne-half cups of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two eggs, one tea- 
•jH>onful of cream of tartar, and one-half teaspoonful of soda. Stir 
the butter and sugar to a cream; add the eggs, well beaten. Mix 
and flavor with lemon. This makes a good and inexpensive cake. 

Delicious Sponge Cake. 
Twelve eggs, one pound of sugar, twelve oimees of flour, a pinch 
of salt; flavor. Beat the whites to a very stitT froth, the yolks till 
the bubbles look fine. When the yolks are beaten .enough add the 
Bugar and beat till sugar is dissolved; then add the whites, and 
lastly the flour, and bake numediately in brick-shaped tins. This 
will make two loaves. You will find your cake so much nicer if 
baked in a paste. Make with flour and water only; roll out on the 
board same as pie crust, line your greased tins all over inside with 



CAKE. 79 

the paste and pour in the batter. Bake nearly an hour. Do not 
break off the paste till you want to use it. Your cake will be more 
moist and keep longer; indeed, the cake will be much better a day 
or two old. 

Sponge Cake wirn Hot Water. 

One cup of sugar and two eggs, well beaten together, one tc»- 
•poonful of baking powder sifted with one cup of flour; stir well 
together, then stir in one-third cup of boiling water or milk; bako 
quickly in a buttered tin. If these directions are followed the cak« 
will be very nice. 

Sponge Cake. 

Beat together the yolks of four eggs and one cup of sugar tea 
minutes; add to it one cup of flour sifted with one-half teaspoonful 
baking powder, one teaspoonful extract of orange; then add the 
whites whipped to a stiff froth, and bake in a well-greased cake 
mould in a steady oven thirty minutes. 

White Sponge Cake. 
Sift together one cup of flour, one-half cup of com starch, one 
teaspoonful baking powder; add one cup of sugar, one teaspoonful 
extract of rose, then add the whites of eight eggs whipped to a 
■tiff froth; mix thoroughly and bake in a well-buttered cake tin m 
a quick oven thirty minutes. 

Sultana Cake. 
Beat together one and one-half cups of butter and one and one- 
half cups of sugar; add six eggs, two at a time, beating fir* 
minutes between each addition, one and one-half pints of flout 
•ifted with one teaspoonful baking powder, one-lialf cup of thick 
cream, four cups of Sultana raisins, one-half cup of chopped citron; 
mix thoroughly and put in a paper-lined cake tin well buttered. 
Bake in a moderate oven one and onC'fourth hours. When dou«, 
spread with transparent icing. 



to CAKE. 

Spice Cake. 
Beat together one cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add two 
beaten eggs, one cup of milk, three cups of flour with two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, one-half cup each of seeded raising 
and currants; season with nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon. 

Seed Cake. 
Beat together one cup of sugar, one-third of a cup of ba'^ter, and 
two eggs; add one-half cup of milk, and two ciipa fioar sifted with 
two teaspoonfuls of baking powder; stir ip on3 tablespoonful of 
coriander seed and season with nutmeg. Bake in a loaf or ii| 
patty tins. 

TUNBRIDGE CaKB. 

Bake a plain sponge cake in a cylinr^ei-mruld; when cold cut it 
in thin slices, lay the bottom piece on a plate,^ spread over any kind 
of fruit jelly and two tablespoonfuls of any kind of wine; repeat 
this until all the cake is used; prepare a meringue paste of the 
whites of four eggs beaten stif?!, with two cups of sugar; use it to 
entirely cover the top and sides of the cake; sift sugar plentifully 
over it and place it in an oven to brown just a fawn color; when 
ready to serve slide it ofi; the plate into a glass dish and pile round 
it one pint of whipped cream. Flavor with any extract to suit the 
taste. Nice for tea or for dessert. 

Taylok Cake. 

Seven eggs beaten separately; beat with the yolks two pounds of 
sugar, one and one-half pounds of butter (less butter will do); 
then add seven coffeecups of flour sifted with two and one-half tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, one pound of currants, one pound of 
seeded raisins, three nutmegs, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, one pint 
of milk, and lastly the beaten whites of the eggs. 
Weddin-g Cake. 

First J . ooure the following ingredients: One pound and a half of 
flour, the same of butter, half a pound of candied lemon, half a 



CAKE. 



81 



pound of candied orange, half a i»oun<l of candied citron, one pound 
of dried cherries, one pound and a half of currants (or if the cher- 
ries cannot be readily obtained, use a pound more of currants), 
eight ounces of almonds, eight eggs, the rind of four oranges, or of 
two lemons rubbed upon sugar, half an ounce of spices, consisting 
of powdered cinnamon, grated nutmeg, and ground cloves in equal 
proportion, a teaspoonful of salt, and a small tumblerful of brandy 
(if objected to, the brandy may be omitted and another egg added). 

Wash, pick and dry the 
currants, cut the cherries 
into naoderate sized pie- 
ces, slice the candied peel 
into thin shreds, blanch 
and pound the almonds, 
or cut tlienx into very 
small pieces, and crush 
the flavored sugar to pow- 
der. Put the butter into 
a large bowl, and beat it 
to cream, either with a 
wooden spoon or with the 
hand. Add very gradu- 
ally the sugar, flour, and 
eggs, and when they are 
thoroughly mixed work 
In the rest of the ingredients. Put them in a little at a time and 
beat the cake between each addition. It should be beaten fully 
three-fourths of an hour. Line a tin hoop with double thicknesses 
of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and place it on a metal 
baking-sheet with twelve folds of paper under it, and four or five 
on top, to keep it from burning. Put it into a moderately heated 
oven, and keep the oven at an even temperature until it is done 
enough. If the cake is to be iced, first prepare the almond part: 
Take half a pound of almonds, throw them into coiling water, and 




82 CAKE. 

skin them. Pound them in a mortar with a few drops of orange- 
flower water, one pound of fine white sugar, and as much white of 
egg as will make a soft, stiff paste. Spread this over the top of 
the cake, and keep it from the edge as much as possible. Put it in 
a cool oven or in a warm place, till it is dry and hard. To make 
the sugar icing, put two pounds of icing sugar into a bowl and 
work it into the whites of two, or if necessary, three, or even four, 
eggs. The whites must not be whisked, but thrown in as they are. 
Work the mixture to a stiff, shiny paste, and whilst working it add 
occasionally a drop of lemon-juice. Be careful to obtain icmff 
sugar. If a drop of liquid blue is added it will make it look whitei'. 
The icing will need to be worked vigorously to make a paste that 
will not run, and the fewer eggs taken the better. The cake ought 
not to be iced until a short time before it is wanted, as it may get 
dirty. The icing should be spread evenly over with the hand 
wetted with cold water, then smoothed with an ivory knife, and it 
should be put into a gentle oven to harden. It may be ornamented 
with little knobs of icing placed round the edge; and on the day of 
the wedding a wreath of white flowers and green leaves may be 
placed round it by way of ornament. If anything more elaborate 
is required, a pretty center ornament may be made with glazed 
white card board, silver paper, and orange blossom; or a stand and 
a drum, with artificial flowers, may be hired of the confectioner. 
Time to bake the cake, about six hours. 

Wedding Cake, No 2. 

Six cups butter, four cups sugar, sixteen eggs, three pints flour, 
six cups currants, washed, dried, and picked, three cups sultana 
raisins, three cups citron, two cups candied lemon peel, two cups 
almonds, blanched and cut in shreds, one-half pint brandy, two 
ounces each nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon, one tablespoonful each 
cloves and allspice. 

Prepare all these ingredients in the following manner: Place the 
butter and sugar in a large bowl ; break the eggs into a quart mea- 
sure or pitcher; cover a small waiter with a clean sheet of paper. 



CAKE. 8.*] 

.■and on it lay the sifted flour, fruit, citron, and lemon peel cut into 
-shreds, the almonds and spices, with the brandy measured at hand- 
also get ready a large cake tin by papering it inside with white 
paper, and outside and bottom with four or five thicknesses of 
•coarse wraj)i3ing pajDer, Avliich can be tied on. 

Having thus prepared everything, and the fire banked up to last, 
with the addition from time to time of just a shovelful of coal by 
-which means you will not reduce the oven heat, proceed to beat to 
a very light cream the butter and sugar, adding the eggs, two at a 
time, beating a little between eact addition until all are used; then 
put in contents of the waiter all ai once with the brandy; mix very 
thoroughly, and smooth; put it into the prepared cake tin, smooth 
over the top, put plenty of paper on to protect it, and bake eight 
hours, keeping the oven steadily up to a clear, moderate heat; 
watch it faithfully, and you will produce a cake worthy of the occa- 
sion; remove from the oven very carefully, and suffer it to stay on 
the tin until quite cold; the next day ice it with a thin coat of 
White Icing, both the top and the sides; and place in a cool oven 
to dry the icing. Now spread a second coat of icing, which will 
prevent any crumbs or fruit being mixed up with the icing when 
you are icing to finish; now with a broad knife proceed, when the 
first coat is dry, to ice the sides, then pour the icing on the center 
of the cake, in quantity sufficient to reach the edges, when stop; 
decorate with a vase of white, made flowers, etc., to taste. 

Vanilla Cake. 
One cup of butter, two cups of pulverized sugai', one cup of sweet 
milk, three cups of flour, one-half cup of corn starch sifted with two 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, four eggs, two teaspoonfuls exti'act 
of vanilla. 

"Washington Cake. 

Three- fourths pound of butter, one and one-fonrtli pounds of 
sugar beaten together; add four beaten eggs, one jiint milk, one 
^nd one-fourth pounds of flour, with two teaspoonfuls baking pow- 



84 CAKE. 

der, one and one-half pounds of seedless raisins, one and one-half 
pounds of currants, one glass brandy; spice to taste. 

Wine Cake. 
Beat together one and one-half cups of butter and two cups of 
sugar; add three beaten eggs, two cups of flour with one teaspoon- 
ful baking powder, one gill of wine; mix into a firm batter and 
bake in a moderate oven. Frost. 

Webster Cakes. 
Beat together thoroughly one cup of butter, three cups of sugar, 
and two eggs; add five cups of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, one and one-half cups of milk, two cups of seed- 
less raisins, one teaspoonful each of extract of bitter almonds and 
vanilla. Bake in a quick, steady oven forty-five minutes. 

Watermelon Cake. 

White part: Two cups of pulverized sugar, two-thirds cup each 
of butter and sweet milk, three cups of flour sifted with one table- 
spoonful baking powder, and the whites of five eggs; flavor. 

Red part; One cup of red sugar sand, one-half cup of butter, 
two-thirds cup of milk, two cups of flour, one heaping teaspoonful 
of baking powder, whites of five eggs, and one-half pound of raisins. 

In filling the cake pan put the white part outside and the red part 
inside; drop in the raisins here and there where they belong for 
seeds. 

White Cake. 

Whites of eight eggs well whipped, three cvips of pulverized 
isngar, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, foui cups of sifted flour 
with one teaspoonful cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in the milk, juice of one lemon. Bake one hour in a 
moderate oven. 

Yule Cake. 

Rub together two and one-half cups of butter and three cups of 
sugar; add ten beaten eggs, four cups of flour with two teaspoon- 



COOKIES, JUMBLES AND SNAPS. 85 

fuls baking powder, four cups of c-un-ant;*, two-thirds cup of 
chopped citron, one teaspoonful each of extract of nutmeg and 
cloves, one gill brandy. Bake in a well-greased, paper-lined tin, in 
a moderate oven, two and one-half hours. 

Ckullees. 
One-half pint of buttermilk, one cup of butter, two cups of 
sugar, and three eggs; beat up the eggs and add the sugar and 
milk. Dissolve half a teas2)oonful of saleratus in a little hot water; 
add to the mixture, with a teaspoonful of salt, one-half nutmeg 
grated and half a teaspoonful of fresh ground cinnamon. Work in 
as much flour as will make a smooth dough; mix thoroughly; 
dredge the board, rolling-pin, and dough with flour; roll it out and 
cut it in rings or fingers and fry in hot fat. 

Ceullees, No. 2. 

Three eggs, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of 
milk, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, nutmeg, cinnamon and 
lemon juice, or extract to taste; flour sufficient to stiffen. Cut in 
strips and fry in lard. 

Crullers, No. 3. 

Six eggs, one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one-half cup of 
milk, and flour to roll out easily. They should be rolled out about 
one-half inch thick; cut with a jagging iron or knife in strips about 
one-half inch wide, and twist so as to form cakes. The fat 
shoiild boil up as the cakes are put in and they should be constantly 
watched while frying. When brown on the underside, turn them; 
when brown on both sides they are sufficiently done. 



SG COOKIES, JUMBLES AND SNAPS. 

COOKIES, JUMBLES, AND SNAPS. 

Almond Cookies. 
Half a pound of butter, same of sugar, one-and one-fourth pound* 
of flour (or half corn starch), one good teasjioonful baking powder, 
two eggs; flavor with extract of almond, and mix into a smooth 
dough to roll out with a little milk; roll quarter of an inch thick^ 
and cut in any shape; wash them over, Avhen cut, with a little 
water and sprinkle with chopped almonds, and sift over a little fin© 
sugar. 

Almond Cookies. 

Two pounds of butter, three pounds of sugar, one pound of 
shelled almonds, one dozen eggs, one teaspoonful of ground cinna- 
mon, one-half teaspoonful of soda, a cup of boiling water, one 
lemon grated; mix butter, sugar, yolks of eggs, lemon, cinnamon, 
and hot water; beat the whites, take three jDarts, mix also one-half 
of the almonds, and as much flour as it will hold; roll them, and 
brush with the whites of eggs. Before putting in the almonds and 
sugar, almonds must be scalded, dried and cut fine. Bake in a 
moderate oven. 

CocoANUT Cookies. 

Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, one teaspoonful soda 
dissolved in a tablespoonful of milk, one cocoanut, and flour enough 
to roll. 

Cookies. 

One quart flour sifted, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, two 
eggs, one cup of sugar, half a cup of butter, three tablespoonfufe 
of milk; mix soft and roll; flavor with any extract. 

Cream Cookies. 
Two cups sugar, two eggs, one cup sour cream, one cup butter^ 
one teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful lemon extract or one-half a 
nutmeg grated; flour enough to make a dough as soft as it can be 
rolled. Delicious. 



COOKIES, JUMBLES A^^D SIs^APS. 87 

Cook IKS, Xo, 2. 
One Clip sugar, one-lialf cup lard or butter, one-half cup sour 
milk, one-half teaspoonful soda, just flour enough to roll, baking 
quickly. Add any flavoring you wish. No eggs are required. 
These are very nice if grated or jjre^jared cocoanut is added. 

Cookies, No. 3. 
One cup of butter, two cups sugar, four eggs, four cups flour, 
three tablespoonfuls milk, three teaspoonf uls baking powder. Rub 
the flour and butter thoroughly together, cream the butter and 
sugar, beat the eggs separately; add to the above, with a little nut- 
meg or cinnamon, or any seasoning preferred. Sift in the flour and 
baking powder, and add enough flour to mold and roll out. These 
cookies will keep fresh two weeks, and if the milk is left out, a 
month. 

Cookies, No. 4. 

One and one-half cups of white sugar, four eggs, one cup of lard, 
half cup of butter, three tablespoonfuls of water, one teaspoonful 
soda, a half grated nutmeg; roll thin; dust over with sugar and roll 
down lightly. Bake quickly. 

Egoless Cookies. 
Two cups sugar, one cup sweet milk, one cup butter, one-half 
teaspoonftd soda. Flour enough to rolL Use vanilla, lemon or 
nutmeg for seasoning. Tliey are very nice. 

Gi>rGER Cookies. 
One cup sugar, one cup molasses, one cup shortening, two beaten 
oc^iX^, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of but- 
termilk, one tablespoonful ginger. Stir with a spoon until stiff 
enough to mold with the hand; roll and bake in a quick oven. 
Graham Cookies. 
Two cups of sugar, one cuj) of sour cream, one-half teaspoonful 
of soda; mix quickly, roll and bake. These require less heat and 
more time in bakinir than when white flour is used. 



88 COOKIES, .lUMBLES AND SNAPS. 

Molasses Cookiks. 
Three cups of New Orleans molasses, one eup of lard, a half cup 
butter, four teaspoonfuls sotla dissolved in ten tablespoonfuls boil- 
ing water; one tablespoonful ginger, one teaspoonful cinnamon. 

SuGAii Cookies. 
Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one-half cup of milk, two 
eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda, a 
tablespoonful c!M-away seeds. Mix soft and roll. 

lIiCKORY-NUT Cookies. 
Take two cups of sugar, two eggs, half a cup of melted butter, 
six tablespoonfuls of milk, or a little more than a third of a cup, 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda and 
one cup of chopped meats stirred into the dough. 

Sand Tarts. 
Rub together two pounds of sugar, two pounds of flour, one and 
a qun.rter pounds of butter beaten with three eggs; mix smooth and 
roll out and cut into cakes. Place hickory-nut or almond meats 
over the top. Wet over with the whole of an egg beaten, and 
sprinkle with cinnamon and line sugar. 

Jumbles. 

Three eggs, one and one-fourth cups sugar, one cup butter, three 
tablespoonfuls sour milk, one-quarter teaspoonful saleratus, flour to 
mix hard. After it is kneaded and rolled out, sift sugar over the 
top. Season if you like. 

Jumbles, No. 2. 

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of milk, five eggs, 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a teaspoonful of soda. 

Ginger Snaps. 
One cup of sugar, one cup of molasses, one cup of butter, one 
teaspoonful so<3;i. one teaspoonful ginger, one egg. 



COOKIES, JUMBLES AND SNAPS. SO 

Ginger Snaps, No. '2, 
One cap molasses, one-half cup lard, one teaspoonful soda, salt 
and ginger to taste; mix hard. 

Ginger Snaps, No. 3. 
One coffeecup New Orleans molasses, one cup butter, one cup 
sugar; ])lace them on the stove, and let it come to a hoil, then take 
oflF immediately, and add a teaspoonful of soda, and a tablespoon- 
ful of ginger. Roll thin and bake quickly. 

Doughnuts. 

Two beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, four tablespoonfuls melted 
lard, one cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, a little salt, 
seasoning to the taste; flour to make a soft dough to roll out; fry 
in hot lard. 

Doughnuts Without Eggs. 

Two quarts of flour, one pint of milk, one heaping cup of sugar, 
!»nd a piece of butter the size of an egg. Scald the milk, and when 
^pid add the sugar, the butter, a half cup of yeast, and a half tea- 
spoonful of soda. Pour this all into the center of the flour, using 
enough of flour to make a sponge. Let it rise all night in a warm 
place. In the moi-ning sprinkle in whatever spice you want; then 
knead in the rest of the flour; let it rise again until light; knead 
again and roll them. After they are cut out let them stand five 
minutes. Fry in boiling lard. 

Doughnuts, Raised. 
Make a sponge, using one quart water and one cake yeast; let it 
rise until very light, then add one cup of lard, two cups of sugar, 
three large mashed potatoes, two eggs, season with nutmeg; let rise 
again until very light. Roll and cut, or pull off bits of dough and 
shape as you like; lay enough to fry at one time on a floured plate 
and set in the oven to warm; drop in boiling lard and fry longer 
than cakes made with baking jjowdcr. 



90 COOKIES, JU.MBLES AND SNAPS. 

Cream Doughnuts. 

Beat one cup each of sour cream and sugar, and two eggs, 
together; add a level teaspoonful of soda, a little salt, and flour 
enough to roll. 

Fried Cakes. 

Seven tahlespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of melted 
lard, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three eggs, one cup of 
milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of -cream of tartar; 
flour enough to roll out soft. Roll in pulverized sugar when half 
cold. 

Snow Balls, White. 

One cup of sugar, six tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two eggs, 
one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of 
soda, a very little nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt; mix middling 
soft and roll out, and cut with a small round cutter. Your tea 
canister top may be just the right size. Fry ii?. hot lard. Have 
ready a small bowl with a little fine white sugar in it. As you 
take them from the lard drop them in the suga'* and roll around 
quickly until the surface has a very thin coat of sugar all over it, 
then lay carefully on a plate. Repeat with eacl cake separately, 
adding a little fresh sugar occasionally. 



CHAPTER V. 




FTEX custards are spoiled by being cooked 
too long. Have a regularly heated slow 
oven. The lighter the eggs are beaten, the 
thicker and firmer the custard. Duck's 
eggs make the richest custards. 
Almond Ceeam. 
Take three ounces of sweet and one 
ounce of bitter almonds, blanch them; put 
them in a pan over the fire, stirring them 
continually. As soon as they have acquired a fine yellow color, 
take them off the fire, and when cold pound them into fine pieces; 
then add a pint of cream or rich milk, nearly boiling, and three 
or four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one-half package of 
gelatine which has been dissolved in a little water. Put it upon 
the ice, and when about to thicken stir it until it is very smooth, 
then stir in lightly a pint of whipped cream and put it into a. 
mold. 

Apple Float. 
One cup of pulverized sugar, one cup of cream beaten to a 
stiff froth, five eggs, beaten light, one lemon, four large apples 
grated, three tablespoonfuls of gelatine dissolved in warm water. 
This quantity will fill one quart bowl. 

Bavaroise. 
One pint of milk; add four tablespoonfuls of ground coffee; cook 
until well mixed, and strain through a jelly bag; add the beaten 

91 



'92 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

yolks of four eggs, a cup of sugar, and cook as for a custard; set in 
a cold place, and when cool add a pint of whipped cream in which 
has been stirred one-third of a box of dissolved gelatine, and stand 
in a cool place until it thickens. 

Blanc Mange. 
Take four ounces of sweet almonds and one-half ounce of bitter 
almonds, blanched; pound them in a mortar, moistening them occa- 

■ gionally with orange-flower Avater; mix this with one quart of fresh 
■^^ cream; set the cream and almonds on the fire, stirring constantly; 

when it comes to a scald pour in one-half box of gelatine which has 
been previously dissolved by soaking in half a cup of cold water 
' one hour. 

Ckeam a la Mode. 

Put half a pound of white sugar into a deep glass dish; the juice 
of one large orange and one lemon; to one ounce of isinglass or 
_ gelatine add one pint of water; let it simmer down one-half, and 
when cool strain it into the glass dish, and by degrees add one and 
one-half pints of whipped cream; stir till cool, and place it on ice to 
stiffen. 

Coffee Cream. 
Sweeten one pint of rich cream rather liberally; roast two ounces 

• of coffee kernels; when they are lightly browned throw them into 
the cream at once, and let the dish stand an hour before using; 
strain, and whip the cream to a stiff froth. A teaspoonful of pow- 

■ dered gum arable dissolved in a little orange-flower water, may be 
added to give the cream more firmness, if desired. 

Bavarian Cream. 
Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, and set in a colander 

• one minute to allow the un whipped portion to drip away; boil one 
pint of milk and one-half cup of sugar; flavor with vanilla, and add 
one-half package of gelatine dissolved in water, remove from 
the fire, and cool; add the well-beaten whites of four eggs. When 

..v-the mixture has become quite cold add the whipped cream gradually 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 93" 

until it is well mixed; put into individual molds a teaspoonful of 
Bome bright jelly or jam, then pour the mixture and place in an 
ice-chest until wanted. This cream may be flavored in any way 
desired. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream 
Can be made as the preceding by adding two cakes of sweet 
chocolate, soaked and stirred smooth in two tablespoonfuls of water, 
to the yolks of the eggs. 

Caledonian Cream. 
Two ounces of raspberry jam or jelly, two ounces of red currant . 
jelly, two ounces of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of two eggs put 
into a bowl and beaten with a spoon for three-quarters of an hour. 
This makes a very pretty cream, and is good and economical. 

Charlotte Russe Elegante. 
One-half package of gelatine dissolved in a very little water; . 
one quart of whipped cream, flavored and sweetened to taste. 
Line a mold with sponge or white cake; stir the gelatine into 
the cream and pour into the prepared mold. The cake may be 
soaked in a little wine if preferred". 

Charlotte Russe. 
One pint of cream well whipped ; beat five tablespoonfuls of sugar 
irith the yolks of four eggs; simmer together one-half pint of milk 
and one-half ounce of isinglass or gelatine till the gelatine is dis- 
solved, then mix with the beaten yolks and the sugar, then the 
whites of the eggs well beaten, then the whipped cream; flavor 
with one gill of wine and set it aside to cool; pour it into a mold 
which was previously lined with pieces of sponge cake. When it is 
stiff and solid turn out into a dish and sift sugar over the top. 

Charlotte Russe, No. 2. 
One box of gelatine so.ikcd in milk one-half hour; while it is 
soaking make a soft custard witli the yolks of seven eggs, one pint 
©f milk, and one-half pound of crushed sugar. "When the custar(l . 



'94 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

"begins to boil pour in the gelatine and it will dissolve; when dis- 
solved, strain the custard through a sieve and add one gill of cold 
cream; then let it cool a little, but not enough to thicken; whip a 
good quart of thick cream, add vanilla or any flavoring to suit the 
taste, add this to the custard, set it in the ice chest and stir occa- 
sionally until it begins to thicken. Then beat the whites of the 
seven eggs to a froth, adding two tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar, and stir into the custard and cream, stirring occasionally 
very gently until it is thick enough to turn into the molds which 
have been lined with sponge fingers or slices. Set them back iu 
the ice chest. 

Feuit Gharlotte. 

Line a dish with sponge cake; place upon the bottom, in th^ 
centre of the dish, gi'ated pine-apple; cover with a whipped cream 
blanc mange. Keep back a little of the cream to pour over the top 
after it is poured out of the mold. 

Genoese Ceeam. 
One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of 
sugar. Boil until it thickens; add the yolks of three eggs and a 
piece of butter the size of an (^^gg', flavor with lemon or vanilla. 
Cover the bottom of the dish with sponge cake, spreading one side 
of the cake with currant or other jelly. Pour on the cream and 
dust the ^oj) with sugar. 

Italian Cream. 
Put one ounce of soaked isinglass, six ounces of loaf sugar, and 
one pint of milk, into a sauce pan; boil slowly and stir all the time 
until the isinglass is dissolved; strain the mixture, and, when cool, 
mix it with a pint of thick cream; flavor with one teaspoonful 
of extract of bitter almond, and one gill of rose water. Beat 
thoroughly until it thickens; pour into a large or into individual 
-molds and put into an ice box until wanted. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 95 

Manioca Crea^i. 
Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one pint of milk, three eggs, 
vanilla and sugar to taste; soak the manioca in water till soft; boil 
the milk; while boiling stir in the manioca and the yolks of the 
eggs beaten with the sugar; when cooked sufficiently pour into a 
dish to cool; when cold, add the vanilla; beat the whites of the 
€o-gs until stiff, sweeten and flavor them and stir part into the 
cream, putting the rest on top. 

RussE Ceeam. 
One-half box of gelatine soaked in a little water one hour, one 
quart of milk, one cup of sugar, and four eggs. Mix sugar, milk, 
yolks of eggs, and gelatine together; put in a pail, set in a kettle 
of water and boil twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the cg^-3 
€tiff, and stir into the custard after taking off the fire. Flavor with 
vanilla and pour into molds. Serve with sugar and cream or with 

custard. 

Rock Ckeam. 

Boil rice until, quite soft in new milk, sweeten with powdered 
loaf sugar. Pile it in a dish and lay on it in different places lumps 
of currant jelly, or any kind of preserves; beat the whites of five 
eggs to a fctiff froth; add flavoring and a tablespoonful of thick 
cream; drop it over the rice forming a rock of cream. 

Spaxish Cream. 
Make a soft custard of one quart of milk, the yolks of six eggs, 
six tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put one box of gelatine dissolved in 
one pint of water over the fire; add the custard; flavor with vanilla. 
Strain into molds and set in a cool place. 
Tapioca Cream. 
One cup of tapioca soaked for eight hours in milk enough to 
cover; then take one quart of milk, place on the stove, and when it 
boils add the beaten yolks of tAVO eggs and the tapioca; let it boil up. 



•*6 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

then stir the beateu whites xevy t]iorou<^lily through it. Sweeten 
and flavor to taste. Eat cold. 

To one quart very thick whipped cream, add powdered sugar to 
taste and a glass of wine. Make just before ready to use. 

Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Mix a plateful of whipped cream (flavored with vanilla), the 
beaten whites of two eggs and pulverized sugar to taste, all together; 
pile a bank of this mixture in the center of a platter and form a 
circle of little fruit puddings (steamed in cups) around it, or it is 
nice for corn starch, blanc manges, etc. 

Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours. 
It is the best for tea and coffee. Double cream stands on its milk 
twenty-four hours, and cream for butter frequently stands forty- 
eight hours. Cream that is to be whipped should not be butter 
cream, lest in whipj)ing it change to butter. 

Almond Custard. 

One pint of new milk, one cup of pulverized sugar, one-quartek 
xiound of almonds (blanched and pounded), two teaspoonf.ils rose 
water, the yolks of four eggs; stir this over a slow fire until it is 
of the consistency of cream, then remove it quickly and put mto a 
dish. Beat the whites with a little sugar added to the froth, and 
lay on top. 

Apple Custard. 

One pint of mashed stewed apples, one pint of sweet milk, four 
eggs, one cup of sugar, and a little nutmeg. Bake slowly. 

Boiled Custard. 
Allow five eggs to one quart of milk, a tablespoonful of sugar td 
each egg, set the milk in a kettle of boiling water until it scalds; 
then, after dipping a little of the milk on to the eggs and beating 
up, turn into the scalded milk, and stir until it thickens. Flavor 
to taste. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 97 

Baked Custard. 
One quart of milk, five eggs, a pinch of salt, sugar and flavor t# 
taste, boil the milk; when cool, stir in the beaten eggs and sugar, 
pour into cups, set them in pans of water, and bake; if baked to« 
long, will become watery. 

Chocolate Cetstaed. 
Make a boiled custard with one quart of milk, the yolks of six 
eggs, six tablespoonf uls of sugar, and one-half cup of grated vanilla 
chocolate. Boil until thick enough, stirring all the time. When 
nearly cold, flavor with vanilla. Pour into cups, and put the whiteg 
of the eggs beaten with some powdered sugar on the top. 

Coffee Custard. 

One-half pint of rich cream, one-half cup cold coflfee, four eggs, 
sugar to taste. 

Corn Starch Custard. 

Most persona know how to make a corn starch custard. A rich 
one can be made as follows: One quart of milk with five beatea 
eggs in it; sweeten and flavor to choice, adding one-fourth pound 
of corn starch ; place over the fire, stirring quickly to avoid burn- 
ing to the bottom, until it begins to thickrn. Or, can take less egg 
by using more corn starch, as follows: On? quart of milk, two eggs, 
sugar and flavor to taste, one-half pound of corn starch. If this is 
too much starch and it becomes too thick, take it off the fire, add a 
a little milk, stirring till smooth. A custard is best made in a 
vessel placed in boiling water, as there is no risk of burning. 
Custards require to be stiffer for filling cream puffs, chocolate eclares, 
charlotte russes, etc. The above receipts are thick enough for any 
of the purposes, and, if required for simple custard, less starch 
will do. 

CocoANUT Custard. 

To one pound of grated cocoanut, allow one pint of scalding^ 
milk and six ounces of sugar. Beat well the yolks of six eggs and 



98 CREAMS AND CUSTARDa 

■tir them alternately into the milk with the cocoanut and sugar. 
Pour this into a dish lined with paste and bake twenty minutes; or, 
if preferred, treat the milk, cocoanut, eggs, and sugar as for boiled 
euBtard, and serve in cups. 

Cold Cup Custard. 
One quart of new milk, one pint of cream, one-fourth pound of 
fine white sugar, three large tablespoonfuls of wine, in which 
rennet has been soaked. Mix the milk, cream and sugar together, 
ftir the wine into it, pour the mixture into custard cups, and set 
them away until the milk becomes a curd. Grate nutmeg on top 
and eat them with cream that has been kept on ice. 

Caeamel Custard. 

Put two dessert-spoonfuls of crushed sugar into a tin pan; let it 
stand on the stove till it begins to brown, then stir constantly till it 
is a thick, black syrup. Pour it into a quart of scalding milk; add 
six ounces of white sugar and the yolks of six eggs. Beat and 
pour into cups, set in a pan of hot water in the oven and bake 
twenty minutes. 

Lemon Custard. 

Four eggs (leave out the white of one), one cup of sugar, one cup 
of cold water, one grated lemon, a small piece of butter, one table- 
spoonful of corn starch; bake as custard; after it is baked, cover it 
with the beaten white and pulverized sugar; return to the oven; 
bake a light brown. 

Moonshine. 

Beat the whites of six eggs into a very stiff froth, then add grad- 
ually six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beating for not less 
than fifteen minutes; then beat in one heaping tablespoonful of 
preserved peaches cut in tiny bits. In serving, pour in each saucer 
some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the 
cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is 
enough for seven or eight persons. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 9» 

Floating Island. 
Set a quart of milk to boil, then stir into it the beaten yolka of 
six eggs; flavor with any extract liked and sweeten to taste; whip 
whites of eggs to a stiff froth. When the custard is thick, put 
into a deep dish, and heap the frothed eggs upon it. Place pieces 
of currant jelly on top and serve cold. 

Floattn-g Island, No. 2. 
Into three-quarters of a pint of cream, put sugar to make it very 

eweet, and the juice and rind of a lemon grated. Beat it for ten 

minutes. Cut French rolls into 
thin slices, and lay them on a 
round dish on the top of the 
cream. On this put a layer of 
apricot or currant jam, and some 
more slices of roll. Pile upon 
this, very high, a whip made of 
damson jam, and the whites of 

four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with 

fruits or sweetmeats. 

Irish Moss. 

Soak a scant handful of Irish moss in strong soda water until it 
swells; then squeeze the moss until it is free from water, and put it 
in a tin bucket which contains six pints of sweet milk. Set the 
bucket in a large iron pot which holds several pints of hot water; 
stir seldom, and let it remain until it will jell slightly by dropping 
on a cold plate. Strain through a sieve, sweeten and flavor to 
taste. Rinse a mold or a crock with tepid water; pour in the mix- 
ture, and set it away to cool. In a few hours it will be palatable. 
Eat with cream and sugar — some add jelly. 
QTrAETTTG CtrsTAin). 

Three cups of milk; yolks of four eggs, reserving the whites for 
\he meringue ; one-half package gelatine; six tablespoonfuls of 
«uc;ar; vanilla flavoring; juice of one lemon for menngue. Soak 




IOC CREAMg AND CUSTARDS. 

the gelatine two hours in a cup of the cold milk. t'hen add 
to the rest of the milk, which must be boiling hot, and stir until 
dissolved. Let it stand a few minutes, and strain through muslin 
over the beaten yolks and sugar. Put over the fire and stir five 
minutes, or until you can feel it thickening. Stir up well when 
nearly cold, flavor, and let it alone until it congeals around the 
edges of the bowl into which you have poured it; then stir again, 
and put into a wet mold. Set upon ice, or in cold water until firm- 
Turn it, when you are ready for it, into a glass bowl. Have a 
meringue made by whipping the whites stiff with three tablespoon- 
fuk of powdered sugar, and the lemon juice. 

Okange Snow. 
Peel sweet oranges, slice and lay them in a glass dish with alter- 
nate layers of grated cocoanut and powdered loaf sugar, leaving a 
layer of cocoanut on top. Pour over the whole a glass of orangff 
and lemon juice mixed* Place on ice untii r^i^jf to serve. 



CHAPTER VI. 



(!tat0up0» 




AJNT buy their catsups, but good home-made 
catsup is a most valuable addition to the 
store-room, and a good housekeeper will 
always look with pride upon it as it stands 
upon the shelves in closely-corked bottles, 
neatly labeled, feeling, as she may, that she 
possesses close at hand the means of impart- 
ing a delicious flavor to her sauces and 
gravies without at the same time placing any 
" "'*'' deleterious compound before her friends. 

The superiority of catsup when made at home is undisputed, 
and the comfortable certainty attending its use is so great, that 
we would earnestly recommend every lady who has the time and 
opportunity to do so, to superintend personally the manufacture 
of that which is used in the kitchen. Catsup should be stored 
in a cool, dry place; the corks should be covered with resin, and 
the liquid should be examined frequently, and if there are the 
slightest signs of fermentation or mold, it should be re-boiled 
with a few pepper- corns, and put into fresh, dry bottles. Always 
select perfect fruit, and cook in a porcelain-lined kettle. 



CuRBANT Catsup. 

Boil five pints of ripe currants in one pint of vinegar until soft; 
strain all through a sieve, then add three pints of sugar, and one 
tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice; boil about one hour. 

101 



102 CATSUPS. 

Cucumber Catsup. 
Take one-half bushel of full-grown cucumbers, peel and chop 
them, sprinkle them with salt, aud put them in a sieve and let them 
stand over night; add two dozen onions, cut up small, one-half 
pound white mustard seed, one-half pound of black mustard seed, 
two ounces of black pepper, ground. Mix well with the best cider 
▼inegar, making it the consistency of thick catsup, and fill your 
jars, tying up closely. It requires no cooking. 

GOOSEBERRT CaTSUP. 

Ten pounds of gooseberries, six pounds of sugar, one quart of 
vinegar, three tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one tablespoonful each of 
allspice and cloves. Mash the gooseberries thoroughly; scald and 
put through the colander; add the sugar and spices, and boil fifteen 
minutes, then add the vinegar; bottle immediately. Ripe grape* 
may be prepared in the same manner. 

Plum Catsup. 

To three pounds of fruit put one and three-fourths pounds of 
sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, 
one tablespoonful of pepper, a very little salt; scald the plums and 
put them through a colander; then add sugar and spices, and boil 
to the right consistency. 

Tomato Catsup. 

Take sound ripe tomatoes, slice and cook until done enough to 
put through a sieve; then to every gallon of the pulp and juice add 
one cup of chopped onion, one-half cup of black pepper, four pods 
of red pepper, cut fine, one-half cup of ground ginger and mustard 
mixed, one ounce celery seed, one-half cup of allspice, nutmeg and 
cinnamon, mixed, one-half teaspoonful cloves, two cups of sugar, 
and sufficient salt to taste distinctly, one pint strong cider vinegar; 
put all together and cook two hours, or longer if not thick enough. 
It must not be thin or watery. Bottle and seal while hot, an(? 
in a good cellar it will keep two years. 



CATSUPS. 10,'i 

Tomato Catsup, No. 2. 
One bushel of good ripe tomatoes, one-half gallon of cider vine- 
gar, one-fourth pound of allspice, two ounces of cloves, three 
tablespoonfuls of black pepper, six large onions or two heads of 
garlic, one pint of salt, four large red peppers; cook thoroughly, 
and strain through a sieve, then boil till it ii thick enough, and 
^dd the vinegar. 




CHAPTER VII. 

iEauuiug iluit, 

l^TIIvE ex})iilsioM of air is the pnncix»le in- 
volved in preserving fruit by canning; this 
accomplished and your work is a success. 
The best cans are of glass, and to, those 
having rubbers which do not come in contact 
with the fruit. The fruit should be touched 
by the glass only. See that the cans and 
rubbers are perfect, and the tops fit well. 
Set your cans in a pan of wai'm water on the 
stove so as to heat them up, and thus prevent breaking when the 
hot fruit is put into them. Use a granite-iron or porcelain kettle 
to cook the fruit in. 

When the rubbers for the tops are hardened, put them in a 
Bolut ion of one i)art ammonia and two parts water, leaving them 
five to twenty minutes, or time needed to soften. 

To can small fruit whole, and also to can rapidly, fill the cans 
with the fresh fruit and pour in what water the can will hold, 
place in a wash-boiler of hike- warm watcM-, taking care the cans 
do not touch the bottom of the boiler or they are liable to break. 
Have the water about two-thirds the height of the can, bring 
the water gradually to a boiling point, and then let it boil slowly 
from five to ten minulevS. Take out the cans, place on a warm 
cloth, and shake well to exclude llu^ bubbles; a fork can also be 
pushed into the can to close the air bubbles. Fill the can brim 
full of boiling water and seal rapidly. An easier but slower 
process is to cook the fruit in a kettle, and having heated the cans 
in hot water to prevent brejiking, pour into them the cooked 

104 



OAJ^NING FBUIT. 



105 



fruit, some of the juice to prevent air vacancies, then fill full 
with the fruit and Heal (quickly. After an liour or two screw the 
tops again and repeat this oi)eratiou two or three times, as the 
glass contracts as it cools and there is danger of adjuitting tlie air. 
When all ready place in a cool, dry, and dark place. In a 
week look at the cans, and if you detect any fermenting, re-can 
them, or tlie surer way to save them, is to eat them. 

Where wide mouth bottles are used instead of cans, the corks 
should be steamed, then made to fit closely, and drive in tight, 
seal them with a mixture of about two ounce^i tallow, three 
ounces beeswax, and one pound of resin. Cover the top of the 
bottle well, and, when it cools, dip the top into the melted sealing 
wax. 



Table for Canning Fruit. 



Time for Quantity 

boiling of sugar 

fruit. per qt. 

Apricots 10 min. 8 oz. 

Sour Apples 10 " 6 " 

Crab Aijples 25 " 8 " 

Blackberries 6 " 6 " 

Gooseberries 8 " 8 " 

Raspberries.... 6 •' 4 " 

Huckleberries 5 " 4 " 

Strawberries 8 " 8 " 

Cherries 5 " (\ " 

Currants 6 " 8 " 



Time for 

boiling 

fruit. 



Wild Grapes 10 min, 

Hour Pears, whole 30 " 

Bartlet Pears 20 " 

Peaches, in halves 8 " 

Pbims 10 " 

Peaches, whole 15 ** 

Pine-apple, sliced 15 " 

Tomatoes 30 " 

Quinces 30 " 

Rhubarb 10 " 



Quantity 

of sugar 

per qt. 

8 oz. 




10 
10 



Apple Sauce. 



Ready for table use or for pies, may be kept till apples are out 
of the market by putting it into hot jars and sealing at once. 

Canned Pine- apple. 

Pare the fruit and be very particular to cut out the eyes; chop 
■fine and weigh it; add to it the same weight of sugar; mix thor- 
oughly in a large crock; let stand twenty- four hours, then put 



106 CANNING FRUIT. 

into cans, filling them full, and seal tight. After leaving them 
about two weeks it is well to see if there are any signs of working; 
if so, pour into a kettle and heat through and replace in the cans. 

Canned Pine-apple, No. 2. 

Three-fourths pound of sugar to one pound of fruit, allowing one 
cup of water to a pound of sugar. Pick the pine-apple to piece* 
with a silver fork; scald and can hot. 

Canned Berries. 
Heat slowly to boiling in a porcelain kettle; when they begin to 
boil, add sugar according to table above. Before doing this, how- 
ever, if there is much juice in the kettle, dip out the surplus and 
save for jelly; it will only increase the number of cans. Leave the 
berries almost dry before putting in the sugar, this will make syrup 
enough. Boil all together and can. 

Canned Pears. 
Prepare a syrup, allowing a pint of water and one-fourth pound 
of sugar to one quart of fruit. While this is heating peel the pears, 
dropping each as it is pared into a pan of clear water. When the 
syrup has come to a fast boil, put in the pears carefully and boU. 
until they look clear and can be easily pierced by a fork. Have the 
cans ready rolled in hot water; pack with the pears and fill to over- 
flowing with the scalding syrup, which must be kept on the fire all 
the while, and seal. The tougher and more common pears must be 
boiled in water until tender, and thrown while warm into the hot 
syrup, then allowed to boU ten minutes before they are canned. 

Canned Peaches. 
Pare, cut in half and stone, taking care not to break the fruit; 
drop each piece in cold water as soon as it is pared. Allow % 
heaping tablespoonful of sugar to each quart of fruit, scattering it 
between the layers. Fill your kettle and heat slowly to » boil. 
Boil three minutes, until every piece of fruit is heated through* 



FRESH FRUITS, lOf 

Can and seal. Put a cup of water in the bottom of the kettle- 
before packing it with fruit, to keep the lower layer from burning. 



FEESH FRUITS. 

Pine Apples. 

Slice on a slaw cutter, or very thin with a knife; mix with 
finely-powdered sugar. Set on ice till ready to serve. 

A Nice Way to Prepare Apples. 

Pare a dozen tart apples, take out the core, place sugar, with a 
small lump of butter, in the center of each apple, put them in a 
pan with half a pint of water, bake until tender, basting occasion- 
ally with the syrup while baking; when done,]|serve with cream. 

To Stew Apples. 

One pound]|sugar boiled in one quart of spring water and skim- 
med, one pound of the largest pippins, cut in quarters and the 
cores taken out. Have the syrup boiling; when you put them in 
let them stew till they are quite tender, then add the juice of 
two large lemons, and the peel cut small; give them a few more 
boils after the lemons are put in. If you want them to keep all 
the year, the syrup must be well boiled after the apples are taken 
out. As you peel the apples fling them into cold water. 

Bananas and Cream. 

Peel, slice, and heap up in a glass dassert-dish, and serve Wkw, 
with fine sugar and cream. 

To Crystalize Fruit. 

Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit — leave in the stones; 
beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth; lay the fruit in their 



108 FRESH FRUITS. 

beaten egg, with the stems upward; drain thtau and beat the part 
that drips off again ; select them out, one by one, and dip them into 
i. cup of finely-powdered sugar; cover a pan with a sheet of fine 
paper, place the fruit on it, and set it in a cool oven; when the 
icing on the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and set them 

in a cold place. 

To Keep Grapes. 

Select nice fresh clusters, and cut the end of the stem smooth 
and dip it into melted sealing wax; then put it in cotton batting; 
pack them away in wooden boxes; keep them in a dry cool place. 
In this way they will keep fresh all winter. Another way — Take 
full bunches, ripe and perfect; seal the end that is cut from the 
vine so that no air can get in, or the juice of the stem run out, and 
let them stand one day after sealed, so as to be perfectly sure they 
are sealed (if not they will shrivel up) ; then pack in boxes of dry 
sawdust and keep in a cool place; they will keep nicely all winter 
without losing their flavor; in packing, do not crowd the bunches; 
sprinkle the sawdust over the bottom of the box, then lay the 
grapes carefully, a bunch at a time, all over the box, then sawdust 
and grapes alternately until the box is full. 

Melons. 
Melons are much nicer if kept on ice until time for serving. Cut 
off a slice at each end of the water-melon, then cut through the 
center; stand on end on platter. Cantaloupe melons should have 
the seeds removed before sending to the table. Eat with a spoon- 
ful of strained honey in each half of melon. 

Oranges. 

Slice, mix with powdered sugar, and strew grated cocoa-nut over 

the top. Are also nice served whole, the skins quartered and 

turned down. Form in a pyramid with bananas and white grapes. 

Candied Cherries. 

Two quarts large, ripe, red cherries, stoned carefully; two poundi 

loaf sugar one cup water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water 



FRESH FRUITS. 10<>> 

and boil until it is thick enough to " pull," as for candy. Remove 
to the side of the range, and stir until it shows signs of granula- 
tion. It is well to stir frequently while it is cooking, to secure this 
end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in the 
cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply \ie in the boiling syrup 
two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. Shake gently 
but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad dish, and 
dry in a sunny window. 

Stewed Pears. 
Peel pears. Place them in a little water, with sugar, cloves, 
cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently, and add one glass of cider. 
Dish up cold. 

Glaci! Cherries. 

Make as above, but do not let the syrup granulate. It should 
not be stirred at all, but when it " ropes " pour it over the cherries, 
which should be spread out upon a large flat dish. When the 
syrup is almost cold, take these out, one by one, with a teaspoon, 
and spread upon a dish to dry in the open air. If nicely managed, 
these are nearly ^s good as those put up by professional confec- 
tioners. Keep in a dry, cool place. 

Candied Lemon-Peel. 

Twelve fresh, thick-skinned lemons, four pounds loaf sugar, a- 
little powdered alum, three cups clear water. Cut the peel from 
the lemons in long, thin strips, and lay in strong salt and water all 
night. Wash them in three waters next morning, and boil them 
until tender in soft water. They should be almost translucent, but 
not so soft as to break. Dissolve a little alum — about half a tea- 
spoonful, when powdered — in enough cold water to cover the peel, 
and let it lie in it for two hours. By this time the syrup should be 
ready. Stir the sugar into three cups of water, add the strained 
juice of three lemons and boil it until it " ropes " from the end of 
the spoon. Put the lemon-peels into this, simmer gently half aa 



110 FRESH FRUITS. 

iiour; eake them out and spread upon a sieve. Shake, not hard, 
but often, tossing up the peels now and then, until they are almost 
dry. Sift granulated sugar over them and lay out upon a table 
spread with a clean cloth. Admit the air freely, and, when per- 
fectly dry, pack in a glass jar. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

JDc05ert0. 

Puddings. 
AJIE and attention to the following instructions 
will bring good rcvsults: 

Let the several ingredients be each good and 
fresh of its kind, as one bad article, particularly 
eggs, will taint the whole composition. Have 
the molds and pudding cloths carefully washed 
;' when used, the cloths with wood ashes, and 
dried in the open air. Lay them aside sweet 
and thoroughly dry. Pudding ought to be put 
into plenty of boiling water, which must be kept on a quick 
boil; or, baked, in general in a sharp but not scorching oven. 
A pudding in which there is much bread must be tied loosely, to 
allow for swelling. A batter pudding should be tied up firmly. 
Molds should be quite full, well buttered and covered with a fold 
or two of paper floured and buttered. Eggs for pudding must be 
used in greater quantities when of small size. The yolks and 
whites, if the pudding is wanted particularly white and nice, should 
be strained after being separately well beaten. A little salt is 
necessary for all potato, bean, or pea puddings, and all puddings in 
which there is suet or meat, as it improves the flavor. The several 
ingredients, after being well stirred together, should in general 
have a little time to stand, that the flavors may blend. 
In puddings where brandy, wine, cider, or any acid is 
used, it should be stirred in last and gradually, or it 
is apt to curdle the milk or eggs. A frequent fault 
of boiled puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being 

111 



112 DESSERTS. 

underdone. Baked puddings are as often scorched. Pudding* 
may be steamed with advantage, placing the mold or basin in the 
gteamer and keeping the water boiling under it. When the pud- 
ding-cloths are to be used, dip them in hot water, and dredge them 
with flour; the molds must be buttered. When a pudding begins 
to set, stir it up in the dish, if it is desired that the fruit, etc., 
fihould not settle to the bottom; and, if boiled, turn over the cloth 
in the pot for the same reason, and also to prevent it sticking to the 
bottom, on which a plate may be laid as a preventive. The time 
of boiling must be according to size and solidity. When the pud- 
ding is taken out of the pot, dip it quickly into cold water. Set it 
in a basin of its size; it will then more readily separate from the 
cloth without breaking. Remember that sugar, butter, and suet 
become liquids in boiling; it is from their excess that puddings 
often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of sugar; for if you 
have much syrup you must have more eggs and flour, which make 
puddings heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar that makes 
tapioca and arrowroot, boiled plain, troublesome to keep in shape 
when molded. Rice or other grain puddings must not be allowed 
to boil in the oven before setting, or the ingredients will separate 
and never set ; so never put them in a very hot oven. As a rule, 
We may assume that such flavoring ingredients as lemon — ^grate or 
juice, vanilla and cocoanut, are more admired in modern puddings 
than cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Care must be taken to mix 
batter puddings smoothly. Let the dried flour be gradually mixed 
with a little of the milk, as in making starch, and afterwards, in 
nice cookery, strain it through a coarse sieve. Puddings are lighter 
boiled than baked. Raisins, prunes, and damsons, for puddings 
must be carefully stoned; or. Sultanas may be used in place of 
other raisins; currants must be picked and plunged in hot water, 
rubbed in a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before the fire; 
almonds must be blanched and sliced; and in mixing grated bread, 
pounded biscuit, etc., with milk, pour the milk on them while hot, 
and cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better and easier 



DESSERTS. 113^ 

than boiling. Suet must be quite fresh and free from fiber. Mut- 
ton suet for puddings is lighter than beef; but marrow, when it 
can be obtained, is richer than either. A baked pudding, for com- 
pany, has often a paste border, or a garnishing of blanched and 
sliced almonds about it, but these borders are merely matters of 
ornament; if molded, puddings may also be garnished in various 
ways, as with bits of currant jelly. The best seasoning for plain 
batter puddings are extracts of orange or lemon, or orange-flower 
water. The sweetness and flavor of pudding must, in most cases, 
be determined by individual tastes. Sugar can be added at tablo. 

To YOTTNG HoirSEKEEPERS. 

All young housekeepers should leani as soon as possible how to 
prepare dishes for dessert which can be made on very short notice, 
that they may not be annoyed in the event of unexpected company 
to dinner. In summer, fruit answers every purjiose, but at other 
seasons, and particularly if the first course is not very elaborate^ 
she will need to have something more substantial. A delicious 
pudding can be made in a few minutes by taking one pint of milk 
and stirring into it half a cup of cassava, half a cup of cocoanut, two 
eggs, a little butter, salt and sugar to taste; flavor with vanilla. 
Cook this as you would boiled custard. When cooked and put in 
the dish in which it is to be served, pour over the top the white of 
one egg beaten to a stiff frotii, with a tablespoonful of pulverized 
sugar added. Set it in the oven for a short time to brown. This 
may be eaten warm or cold, with jelly or preserves or without. 
Another dish which is easily made and which is economical as well 
as palatable, is to take slices of cake which are a little dry and pour 
over them while ho*^ some boiled custard; cover the dish quickly, 
and the hot custard will steam the cake sufliciently. Raisin cake 
steamed and served with some pudding sauce is good. Velvet 
cream, to be eaten with cake, is made in this way: Beat the whites 
of four eggs to a stiff froth; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, two tablespoonfuls of raspberrjr 



114 DESSERTS. 

jam; beat all well together; cream may be added or not, as you 
choose. Oranges cut up> with sugar and grated cocoanut sprinkled 
over them are also nice for cake. 

Arkoweoot Pudding. 

One quart milk, three and one-half tablespoonfuls arrowroot, four 
eggs, one cup sugar, one teaspoonful each of extract nutmeg and 
cinnamon. 

Boil the milk, add the arrowroot dissolved in a little water, 
and the sugar; let reboil; take from the fire; beat in the eggs, 
whipped a little, and the extracts; pour in a well-buttered earthen- 
ware, dish, and bake in a quick oven one-half an hour; a few minutes 
before taking from the oven, sift two tablespoonfuls sugar over it, 
and set back to glaze. This pudding is generally eaten cold. 

Almond Pudding. 
Two egg muffins, one cup almonds, blanched — ^pouring boiling 
water on them till the skin slips easily off — and pounded to a fine 
paste, one and one-half cups sugar, four eggs, one and one-half 
pints milk, one teaspoonful each of extract bitter almonds and rose. 
Cut off the top crust from muffins very thin; steep them in the 
milk; beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar with the almonds, then 
add the steeped muffins squeezed a little dry; dilute with the milk, 
add the extract, and put it thus prepared into a well-buttered 
earthenware dish; then stir gently in the whites beaten to a dry 
froth, and bake in a moderately quick oven about one-half hour. 

Pie-Plant Charlotte. 
Wash and cut the pie-plant into small pieces, cover the bottom 
of a pudding dish with a layer of pie-plant and sugar, then a layer 
of bread crumbs and bits of butter, or thin slices of bread nicely 
buttered, and so on until the dish is full. Bake three-quarters of 
an hour in a moderate oven. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit. If preferred, turn over the charlotte a boiled custard 
when ready for the table. 



DESSERTS. 115 

Croquettes of Rice. 
Put a quarter of a pound of rice, one pint of milk, three table- 
spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small 
nut and the thin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any other 
flavoring may be used if preferred. Simmer gently until the rico 
is tender and the milk absorbed. It must bo boiled until thick 
and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into croquettes. Beat it 
thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn it out, and when it 
is cold and still, form it into small balls; dip these in egg, sprinkle 
a few bread crumbs over 
them, and fry them in clar- 
ified fat till they are lightly 
and equally browned. Put 
them on a piece of clean \ 
blotting paper, to dram the 
fat from them, and serve 
them piled high on the dish. If it can be done without breaking 
them, it is an improvement to introduce a little jam into the middle 
of each one; or jam may be served with them. Time, about one 
hour to boil the rice, ten minutes to' fry the croquettes. 

BOMBES AU Riz, 
Take half a pint of rice, put in three pints of boiling water, and 
salt. Let it boil fifteen minutes. At the end of that time drain 
the rice, pour on milk enough to cover it; put it on the back part 
of the stove, where it will not burn, and let it absorb the milk; put 
in enough milk to make the rice soft. While the milk is being 
absorbed add four tablespoonfuls of sweetening and one teaspoonf ul 
of flavoring. When the rice is thoroughly tender take it from the 
fire and add the yolks of three eggs. If the rice is not hot enough 
to thicken the eggs, put it back on the fire; stir constantly and let 
it remain just long enough to thicken, but don't let it bum. As 
soon as it thickens put it on a dish and rub with salad oil ; then put 
it where it will get very cold. As soon as cold it is ready to use 




im DESSERTS. 

for rice croquets or bombes. Take a tablespoonful of rice in 
your hand and flatten it; put a plum or any sweetmeat in the 
center, roll the rice round the sv/eetnieat, roll in cracker dust, dip 
in egg, then roll in the cracker du8t again. Fry in smoking hot 
lard and, serve hot or cold. 

Green Corn Pudding. 
A most delicious accompaniment to a meat course. Take one 
quart of milk, five eggs, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one 
tablespoonful white sugar, and a dozen large ears green corn; grate 
the corn from the cob; beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs 
separately; put the corn and yolks together, stir hard and add the 
butter, then the milk gradually, beating all the while, next the 
sugar, and a little salt, lastly the whites. Bake slow at first, cover- 
ing the dish for an hour; remove the cover and brown nicely. 

Cottage Pudding. 

One cup milk, two of flour, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one egg, one cup of sugar. Steam 
three-quarters, or bake one hour. Serve with sauce. 

Cranberry Roll, 

Stew a quart of cranberries in just water enough to keep them 
from burning. Make very sAveet, strain, and cool. Make a paste, 
and when the cranberry is cold, spread it on the paste about an inch 
thick. Roll it, tie it close in a flannel cloth, boil two hours and 
serve with a sweet sauce. Stewed apples or other fruit may be used 
in the same way. 

Delmonico Pudding. 

One quart scalded milk, three tablespoonfuls corn starch, moist- 
ened with a little cold milk; stir into the Doiling milk the yolks of 
six eggs well beaten, four tablespoonfuls sugar, stir all together. 
Take it off the fire, flavor it, and put into a pudding dish. Then 
beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, spread over the top, and 
brown in the oven. 



DESSERTS. 117 

Evb's Pudding. 
Take equal quantities of flour, f reHh butter, and sugar, six ounces 
yi each; beat the butter to a cream, and beat the sugar and flour 
into it. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat thera 
until light, and add the yolks first, then the whites, to the batter, 
and lastly half a dozen almonds, blanched and pounded, and the 
grated rind of a lemon. Beat well, and fill small cups to about 
half; then set before the fire to rise. In five minutes put them into 
the oven and bake for half an hour. 

Fig Pudding. 

Half a pound figs, half cup suet, half a pound bread crumbs, one 
tablespoonful sugar, three eggs, one cup milk; chop the suet and 
figs fine, add some cinnamon and nutmeg, and a glass of wine, if 
you choose, or leave it out if you prefer. Boil it three hours — 
sauce. 

Fruit Pudding. 

Take one cup each sweet milk, suet (minced), raisins, currants, 
and molasses. Stiffen with bread crumbs and a little flour, having 
added three teaspoonfuls baking powder to the flour and crumbs; 
boil or steam till done. This pudding is equally as good 'the second 
day as the first. 

Baked Farina Pudding. 

Stir into a quart of milk when boiling one-half pound farina, cook 
it five minutes and set it aside to cool, meanwhile stir four ounces 
of butter to a cream, grate the rind of a lemon and add the yolk of 
six eggs, one cup each of sugar, raisins, and currants, and mix all 
well together with the cooked farina. Beat the whites of the eggs 
to a froth, stir it into the batter, and bake slowly for an hour. 

Plain Fruit Pudding. 
Take one and a half cups of flour, one cup of bread crumbs, one 
cup of raisins, half a cup of currants, two nutmegs, one cup of suet 
chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, four eggs, a wine glass 



118 DESSERTS. 

of brandy, a wine glass of syrup, and a little milk if necessary. Mix 
very thoroughly; tie it in a cloth as tight as possible, and boil fast 
for five or six hours. Serve with wine sauce. 

Florentine Pudding. 
Put a quart of milk into your pan, let it come to a boil; mix 
smoothly three tablespoonfuls of corn starch and a little cold milk; 
add the yolks of three eggs beaten, half a cup of sugar, flavor with, 
vanilla, lemon, or anything your fancy suggests; stir into the 
scalding milk, continue stirring till of the consistency of starch (ready 
for use), then put into the pan or dish you wish to serve it in; beat 
the whites of the eggs with a cup of pulverized sugar, and spread over 
the top ; place in the oven a few minutes, till the frosting is a pretty 
brown. Can be eaten with cream, or is good enough without. For 
a change, you can bake in cups. 

Gelatine Pudding. 
One ounce gelatine, one pint cold milk; set on range, and let 
come slowly to a boil, stirring occasionally; separate the yolks and 
whites of six fresh eggs; beat the yolks well and stir slowly into 
hot milk; add half a pound of granulated sugar; when quite cold, 
stir in a quart of whipped cream; flavor with vanilla and lemon 
extract mixed; have the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff, and 
stir in the last thing; pack on ice. 

Ginger Pudding. 
One egg, one cup of molasses, half a cup butter, half a cup of 
fruit, half a cup of hot water, one tablespoonful of ginger, one 
teaspoonful of soda. Stir stiff and steam one hour. 

Sauce for Ginger Pudding. — One egg, one cup sugar, one-third 
of a cup of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one and one-half 
tablespoonfuls of lemon. Pour boiling water in and make like thia 
starch. 

Honey Comb Pudding. 

Three cups flour, one cup beef suet, one cup milk, one cup 



DESSERTS. 119 

molasses, one cup raisins, currants or whortleberries in the season, 
one teaspoonful soda, a little salt. Boil or steam three hours — 
sauce. 

HUCKLEBEEBY PUDDING. 

One cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two of milk, two eggs, two 
cups of berries, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, salt. 
Mix stiff as gingerbread. Boil two hours in a tin pail. Serve with 
sauce. 

Hen's Nest. 

Make blanc mange, pour in egg shells and set to cool; when cold, 
break the egg shells, place in glass dish, cut strips of lemon peel 
and let boil in syrup of sugar and water till tender, and sprinkle on 
tte egg shapes, and make custard and pour over the nest. 

Indian Pudding. 

Stir a pint of com meal into a quart of boiling milk; melt four 
ounces of butter; mix it first with a pint of molasses, and then, 
very gradually, with the meal. Flavor with nutmeg and grated 
lemon peel, or cinnamon, and as soon as the mixture has cooled, 
add, stirring briskly, six well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish and bake 
at once. 

Apple Pudding. 

A loaf of stale bread, steamed twenty minutes before dinner, 
sliced, spread with stewed apple, and a little butter, strewn with 
sugar and browned lightly in a quick oven, makes as good a pud- 
ding as any one would like, with either hard or liquid sauce. 

Apple Batter Pudding. 
Six or eight fine juicy apples, pared and cored, one quart of milk, 
ten tablespoonfuls of flour, six eggs, beaten very light, one table- 
spoonful butter — ^melted, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half tea- 
spoonful soda, one teaspoonful cream of tartar. Set the apples 
close together, in the baking dish; put in enough cold water to half 
€«ver iheui. azi^ Kate, closelv covered, until the edges are clear, but 



120 DESSERTS. 

not until they begin to break. Drain off the water, and let the 
fruit get cold before pouring over them a batter made of the ingre- 
dients enumerated above. Bake in a quick oven. Serve in the 
baking dish, and eat with sauce. 

Apple Float. 

To one quart of apples partially stewed and well mashed, put thie 
whites of three eggs well beaten, and four heaping tablespoonfulg 
loaf sugar; beat them together fifteen minutes, and eat with rich 
inilk and nutmeg. 

Apple Slump. 

One quart flour sifted with three teaspoonfuls baking powder; 
shorten with one teaspoonful butter rubbed into the flour. Mix 
with cold milk or water, the same as for biscuit. Put two 
quarts of pared, sliced or quartered apples with one pint of water 
into the dish in which the slump is to be cooked. Roll the crust 
about an inch thick, cut into quarters and with it cover the apples 
in the dish; then cover the whole with a close fitting cover, and 
boil or steam till done. Take out on a platter and grate nutmeg 
over the apple. Serve with a sweet sauce or sugar and cream. 

Baked Apple Dumplings. 
To one quart flour add two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
and the usual quantity of salt. Thoroughly mix while dry and 
sift. Then take one tablespoonf ul lard and one tablespoonf ul but- 
ter and chop them into the flour prepared as above. Then mix 
with sweet milk to a thin dough, just stiff enough to handle_ 
Roll it out half an inch thick and cut into squares. 

Apples Surprised. 
Peel, core, and slice about five nice cooking apples, sprinkle the 
elices with a spoonful of flour, one of grated bread, and a little 
sugar. Have some lard quite hot in a small steAv-pan, put the slices 
of apple in it, and fry of a light yellow; when all are done, take 
a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a good spoonful of grated 



DESSERTS. I •-' I 

bread, a Bpoonful of sugar, and a cuj) of milk; put into tlit^ pan, 
and when they boil up throw in the a})plu wlices, hold tho whole 
over the fire for two ininuteH, when it will be ready to serve. 

Amber Pudding. 
Six eggs beaten light, one cup of cream, creamed with one-half 
cup of butter, juice of a lemon, and hail' the grated peel, a good 
pinch of imtnu'g, puff paHt(^ Mix HUgar, hiiltcr, cggK, together; 
put into a custard kettle, net in hot water, and Htir until it thiekens. 
Stir in lemon and nutmeg, and let it get (told. J'ut a strip of j)a8te 
around the edge of a })i(! plate; print it prettily; pour in the cold 
mixture, and bake in a steady, not too hot oven. Eat cold." 

AMnuosiA. 
Eight line oranges, peeled and sliced, one-half grated cocoanut, 
«ne-half cup of powdered sugar. Arrange slices of orange in a 
glass dish; scatter grated cocoanut thickly over them; sprinkh; this 
lightly with sugar, and cover with another layer of orange. Fill 
the dish in this order, having a double quantity of cocoanut and 
sugar at top. Serve soon after it is prepared. 

Ari'i.K Omki.kttk. 

Six large pip])ins or other large tart apples, one tablespoonful of 
butter, three eggs, six tablespoonfuls of white sugar, nutmeg to tho 
taste, and one teaspoon fnl of ros(!water; pare, core, and stew tho 
apples, as for sauce; beat llieni very smooth wliilo hot, adding 
butt(!r, sugar, and flavoring; when quite cold, add the eggs, beaten 
separately very light; put in the whites last and pour into a deep 
bake-dish previously warmed and well buttered. Hake in a mod- 
erate oven until it is deli(!afely browned. Eat wanu— not hot. A 
■wholesome dish for children. 

Applk Ciiarlottk. 

Butter your pudding dish, line it with bread buttered on both 
sides; put a thick layer of apples, cut in thin slices, sugar, a little 
cinnamon and butter on top, tlien another layer of bread, apples, 



122 DESSERTS. 

sugar, cinnamon and butter last. Bake slowly one and a lialf 
hours, keeping the pan covered until half an hour before serving; 
let the apples brown on top. 

Baxcroft Pttdde^g. 
One tablespoonful melted butter, one cup sugar, one egg well 
beaten, one pint flour, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one of soda, 
one cup sweet milk; beat well and bake thirty minutes. 

Bread Pudding. 
One pint fine bread crumbs to one quart of milk, one cup sugar, 
yolks of four eggs, well beaten, grated rind of lemon, piece of 
butter size of an egg. Don't let it bake till watery. Whip the 
whites of the eggs with one cup sugar to a stiff froth, and put into 
this the juice of the lemon; spread over the pudding a layer of 
jelly or other sweemeat; then spread the whites of eggs over this, 
and replace in the oven and bake lightly. 

Banana and Apple Tart. 
Make crust of fine flour and fresh butter. Make little crust, but 
make it good. Slice apples fine and put in dish with three or four 
bananas sliced, only adding sugar and perhaps a little syrup, if you 
have got it. Cover crust over fruit ; brush a little melted butter 
over top, strew white sugar on and bake twenty minutes or more, 
as requu-ed. 

Bird's Nest Pudding. 

Pare, quarter and core nice tart apples; butter a pie tin and slice 
the apples in it, make a batter of one cup cream (sour and not very 
rich), one teaspoonful soda, one egg, a little salt, and flour enough 
to make a stiff batter. Pour this over the apples and bake; when 
done turn bottom side up and spread thickly with good sweet 
butter and sugar. To be eaten warm. 

Bird's Nest Pudding, No. 2. 
Take eight or ten nice apples, pare whole and core; place in a 



DESSERTS. 123 ' 

y adding dish; fill the cores with sugar and nutmeg. Make a cus- 
tard of five eggs to one quart of milk, sweeten to taste; pour this 
over the apples and bake half an hour. 

Cabinet Pudding. 

In making it use one pint of milk, six eggs, and a quantity of 
stale cake — stale bread could be used. The tin must be carefully- 
greased with butter, and around the inside place bits of fruit. For 
this, citron, cherries, currants, or any kind of dried fruit, could be 
used. Over this is put a layer of light colored cake, sponge cake 
perhaps, and the center is filled to near the top of the dish with 
broken up pieces. Upon this is poured the custard made of the 
eggs and milk thoroughly beaten up and flavored to suit the taste* 
The dish is then placed in a kettle of boiling water, the water 
coming up within about two-thirds of the way to the top. The pot 
is covered and boiled until done thoroughly. 
Ceeam Batter Pudding. 

Take one cup of sour cream and rub with one cup of flour until 
smooth; then pour in one cup of sweet milk, three eggs — the yolk» 
and whites beaten separately, a little salt and two-thirds of a tea- 
spoonful of soda. Bake in a quick oven. To be eaten with cream, 
and sugar. 

Cracker Pudding. 

Four crackers pounded and sifted, small piece of butter, one and 
one-half pints milk, scalded and poured on the cracker and butter, 
four eggs, sugar to sweeten, nutmeg. 

Chocolate Pttddtitg. 
One quart of sweet milk, three ounces grated chocolate. Scald 
the milk and chocolate together; when cool, add the yolks of five 
eggs and one cup sugar. Bake about twenty-flve minutes; beat 
the whites from the top; browTi in the oven; eat cold. 
Charlotte Pudding. 
Remove the crust from a loaf of bread, dip in milk, and spread 



]21 DESSERTS. 

tlic hIIocb with butter. P;ii-o jiiid cut apples very tliin. Lay the 
bread in a buttered dish, spread over tlio apjiles, sweeten and flavor 
with the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Bake till the apples are 

tender. 

Cottage Pudding. 

Warm two and one-half tablespoonfuls butter, stir in a cup of sugar 
and two eggs well beaten, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar in one 
pint Hour, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in one cup milk, flavor 
with nutmeg or lemon. Bake three-quarters of an hour and serve 
Lot with sauce. 

CUSTAKD BkEAD PuDDING. 

Two cups line dry crumbs; oiu; (juiirt of juilk; live eggs, beatcMi 
light; oue tablespooiilul corn starcii; one teas[»oonrnl of salt, and 
one-half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in milk; llavor to taste. 
Soak the crumbs in tlu; milk, and heat in a (uistard kettle to a boil. 
Add the corn starch wet with cold milk, cook one minute, turn out 
and beat hard. When smooth and almost cold, whip in the yolks, 
the flavoring, lastly, tlie whites. Boil in a buttered mold an hour 
and a half. Kat hot with sweet sauce. It is excellent. 
CocoAXUT Pudding. 

Take sufTicient stale bread to make a pudding, the size you 
require; jjour boiling water over it,. Aftei- it is soaked well, take a 
fork and see tliat no lumps of bread remain; then add half a cup of 
grated cocoanul, make a custard of one (piart of milk, and four 
eggs, flavor with nutmeg (of course you will sweeten it with white 
sugar) ; pour over and bake immediately. 

Cream Pudding. j 

One quart of milk; one cup of hot boiled rice well cooked but 
not broken; one cup of sugar; one heaping tablespoonful of corn 
starch; five eggs; one-fourth teaspoonful of cinnamon and the same 
of grated lemon peel. ITeat the milk, stir in the corn starch wet 
np with cold milk; then the beaten yolks and sugar. Add to these 
the heaping cup of boi]ft| rice. Stir until it begins to thicken, add 



.^i!;SSERTS. iL>r)- 

the seasoning, and pour into a buttered bake-dish. Bake until well 

"set;" spread with a meringue of the whites and a little sugar, 

made very .still. When this has colored lightly, take from the 

oven. Make on Saturday, and set on ice until Sunday. The coldeP 

it is the better. 

Crumk Pudding. 

Three egg yolks, one ounce of sugar, (jue ounce of bread crumbs, 
half a teaspoonf ul of cinnamon. Beat the egg-yolks, sugar, crumbs, 
and spice in a basin for five minutes. Add the three egg-whites 
beaten to a white snow (not too firm), bake in a buttered shallow 
tin or dish, and when quite cooled turn into a flat dish with the 
lower side upward, pour over it a glassful of wine boiled with a. 
little sugar and spice, and serve while hot. 

Irish Rock. 
A sweet for dessert. Wash the salt from lialf a pound of butte^,-. 
and beat into it a quarter of a pound of finely powdered sugapf-^ 
blanch a pound of sweet almonds and an ounce of bitter; pound 
these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet almonds to spika 
for ornamenting the dish when sent to table; add tlie butter and 
sugar, with a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound until smooth 
and white; when, after having become firm, it may be molded 
into a large egg-like shai)o, and stuck full of almond meats. Il 
should be i)hiced high on a glass dish, with a decoration of green 
sweetmeats and a sjjrig of myrtle, <ji- garnish with any green fruita 
or sweetmeats. V, 

J-KLLY Rice. 
Mix four ounces of rice flour smoothly and gradually with a quart 
©f cold milk; put them into a sauce pan, with a quarter of an ounce 
of clarified isinglaHs, the thin rind of half a lemon, four bitter 
almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of sugar. Boil 
and stir briskly until quite thick; take out the lemon rind and pour 
fche mixture into a damp mold. Wlien it is firmly set, turn it on a 
glass dish, pour melted currant jelly, or any^fruit syrup, round it, 
id4 send a dish of cream to tabic with it. 



126 DESSERTS. 

Jelly Custard. 
One quart of milk, six eggs — whites and yolks, one cup sugar, 
flavoring to taste, some red and yellow jelly, — raspberry is good for 
one, orange jelly for the other. Make a custard of the eggs, milk 
and sugar; boil gently until it thickens well; flavor when cold; fill 
your custard glasses two-thirds full and heap up with the two kinds 
of jelly — the red upon some, the yellow upon others. 

Jelly Tartlets. 
Make the paste the same as for pies; line small patty pans, prick- 
ing the paste in the bottom to keep it from pufiing too high; bake 
in a quick oven and fill with jelly or jam. 

Kiss Pudding. 

Beat the yolks of three eggs and half a cup of sugar till light, 
add one and a half tablespoonfuls of corn starch, stir in one pint of 
boiling milk, stir on the stove till thick, pour in a pudding dish; 
beat the whites of the eggs with half a cup of sugar, spread over 
the top and brown. 

Lemon Pudding. 

One lemon grated, rind and pulp, one cup of sugar, one cup of 
water or sweet milk, four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour. Line a deep dish with pastry 
crusts, pour the custard in, bake thirty minutes. Beat the whites 
of three or four eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, spread over the top 
of the pudding, and let brown slightly. 

Lemon Trifle. 
Two lemons — juice of both and grated rind of one, one cup 
sherry, one large cup of sugar, one pint cream well- sweetened and 
whipped stiff, a little nutmeg. Strain the lemon juice before adding 
the wine and nutmeg. Strain again and whip gradually into the 
frothed cream. Serve in jelly glasses and send around cake with 
it. It should be eaten soon after it is made. 



DESSERTS. 127 

Lemon PuDDiim. 
Two eggs, four tablespoonf uls of flour, one-half cup sweet cream, 
one cup sweet milk, one tablespoonful butter, one cup sugar, grated 
rind and juice of one-half lemon. Bake in a moderate over. 
Meringue Rice Pudding. 
Take a cup of rice to one pint of water; when the rice is boiled 
dry add one pint milk, a piece of butter size of an egg, and five 
eggs. Beat the yolks, and grated rind of a lemon, and mix with 
the rice. Butter a dish; pour in the mixture, and bake lightly. 
Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add a cup of sugar and the juice of 
a lemon. When the pudding is nearly done, spread on this frosting, 
and bake in a slow oven till the top is light brown. 
Malagan Pudding. 

One-third cup rice,' one cup sugar, two eggs, one pint milk, half a 
lemon and salt. Soak the rice over night. Beat the yolks of the 
eggs with one tablespoonful of the sugar, and grate in the lemon 
rind; add the rice and milk. Bake one hour. Take the whites of 
the eggs and beat to a stiff froth with the rest of the sugar, then 
add the lemon juice. Pour it over the pudding after it is baked, 
and brown it in the oven two or three minutes. To be eaten cold. 

Mitchell Pudding. 
One cup raisins, one cup chopped suet or butter, one cup molasses 
— some like one cup sugar with two spoonfuls molasses better — one 
cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, salt, flour to makt a stifiE 
batter. Steam three or four hours. Sauce. 

Maud's Pudding. 
Six eggs, ten tablespoonfuls flour, butter the size of an egg, saltj 
mix to a light batter with sweet milk and baking powder in flour — . 
it will rise h^.g^R, bake in ten minutes in a quick oven — put into the 
oven just a dinner is being served s® it will not fall before coming 
to the table. Servo with cream flavored with lemon or other 
extract to taste. 



128 DESSERTS. 

ORANiiE Pudding. 
Soak the crumbs of a French roll in milk, let it drain in a colander 
for half an hour, break it with a spoon in a basin, add two ounces 
of sugar, grated, one ounce of butter, warmed, the yolks of four 
eggs, the juice of four oranges, the grated rind of one, and finally 
the four egg-whites beaten (not too stiffly) on a plate with a knife, 
and bake in a buttered dish in a quick oven. The pudding will be 
equally good boiled in a mold for an hour and a half, and served 
with a sweet sauce. 

Christmas Plum Pudding. 
Shred finely three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, and add to it 
a pinch of salt, one pound and a half of bread crumbs, half a pound 
of flour, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a 
pound of currants, picked and dried, two ounces of candied lemon 
and citron together, and half a large nutmeg. Mix these thor- 
oughly, then add four eggs 
and milk enoiigh to moisten 
it, but not too much or the 
pudding Avill be heavy. Tie 
in a pudding cloth, well 
^m floured, and boil for five or 
six hours; or, we think bet- 
ter when boiled in a mold* 
which should be well buttered before the mixture is put in. The 
mold should not be quite full and should be covered with one or 
two folds of paper, buttered and floured, and then with a floured 
pudding cloth. 

Plum Pudding. 

One pound of raisins, one of currants, one of suet chopped fine, 
and add three-quarters of a pound of stale bread c) iimbs, one- 
quarter pound of flour, one-quarter pound of brown su-ar, rind of 
one lemun (chopped fine), one-half nutmeg grated, five eggs, one- 
half pound mixed candied peel, one-half pint of brandy; mix well 




DESSERTS. 129 

the dry ingredients; beat the eggs with the brandy; pour this over 
the other things and thoroughly mix; to be boiled in a basin or 
mold for six hours at the time of making, and six hours when 
wanted for use. 

English Plum Pudding. 

One pound beef suet, three-quarters pound bread crumbs (not 
flour), three-quarters pound raisins, three-quarters pound currants, 
two ounces sweet almonds, with two or three bitter ones, eight 
eggs, well beaten, one quarter pound citron, a glass of brandy and 
one of sherry wine ; grate in one-half of a nutmeg, and sweeten to 
your taste; mix all these ingredients well; boil six hours in a bowl 
©r cloth. When turned out and ready for the table, pour over 
brandy, set on fire and carry to table surrounded by blue flame. 
This quantity will be dessert for six persons. Two or three times 
the quantity may be made, boiled five hours, and set away for use 
New Year's, Easter, or any intervening birthday. It will be good 
at the end of twelve months. When wanted to use, boil two hours 
longer. 

Plum Pudding. 

One coffeecup of molasses, one coffeecup of milk, one coffeecup 
of chopped suet, one coffeecup of chopped raisins, four coffeecups 
©f flour, one teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der, and one egg. Boil or steam three hours. Flavor with wine, 
or extract of orange, on sauce. 

Rich Plum Pudding. 

Beat up eight eggs, yolks and whites separately, and strain; mix 
them with a pint of thick cream; stir in half a pound of flour and 
half a pound of bread crumbs rubbed through the colander; when 
well mixed beat in one pound of beef suet, chopped very fine, one 
pound of currants, one pound of finely chopped raisins, one pound 
•f powdered sugar, two ounces of candied lemon, and two of citron, 
and a nutmeg grated; mix up all with half a pint of brandy or of 
wine; boil in a cloth for six or seven hours. Any of these Chrijafr- 



130 DESSERTS. 

mas puddings may be kept for a month after boiling, if the cloth in 
which they are made be replaced by a clean one, and the puddings 
be hung to the ceiling of a kitchen or any warm store-room; they 
will then be ready for use, and will require only one hour's boiling 
to heat them thoroughly. 

Baked Plum Pudding. 

One and a half cups of suet, chopped fine, one cup of raisins, stoned, 
one-half cup of milk, one cup of currants, one teaspoonful of 
Baleratus, one-half cup of citron, chopped, one-half teaspoonful each 
of spice and salt, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup of molasses, two 
eggs, flour enough for a stiff batter. Bake two hours and serve 
with sauce. 

Poor Man's Pudding. 

Take one quart of milk, six eggs, six tablespoonfuls of flour, and 
a little salt. Bake half an hour. Use butter and sugar dip. 

Raisin Puffs. 
Two eggs, one-half cup butter, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
two tablespoonfuls sugar, two cups of flour, one of milk, one of 
raisins, chopped very fine. Steam one-half hour in small cups. 

RoLY Poly Pudding. 
The pastry for this favorite pudding may be made in several 
different ways, according to the degree of richness required. For 
a superior pudding, mix a pound of flour with half a pound of very 
finely shred suet, freed from skin and fibre; add a good pinch of 
salt, an egg, and nearly half a pint of milk; roll it out to a long thin 
form, a quarter of an inch thick, and of a width to suit the size of 
the saucepan in which it is to be boiled; spread over it a layer of 
any kind of jam, berries, or fruit, and be careful that the sauce 
does not reach the edges of the pastry. Begin at one end and roll 
it up, to fasten the fruit inside, moisten the edges and press them 
securely together; dip a cloth in boiling water, flour it well, and 
■Jie the pudding tightly in it; put it into a saucepan of boiling 



DESSERTS. 131 

water, at the bottom of which a plate has been laid to keep the 
pudding from burning, and boil quickly until done. If it is neces- 
sary to add more water, let it be boiling when put in, or the pud- 
dino- may be steamed. Marmalade, sliced lemon or orange and 
sugar, chopped apples, or currants, may be used for filling. If 
boiled, it will require from an hour and a half to two hours to 

boil. 

Rice Pudding. 

One quart of milk, one cup of rice (boiled), three eggs, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one teaspoonful of extract of lemon, 
vanilla, or orange. 

Sago PuDDrnG. 

One quart rich, sweet milk, four tablespoonfuls of sago, four 
«ggs, one cup sugar, and flavoring; soak sago over night in water; 
then beat yolks of eggs, sugar, and sago together; add milk and 
flavoring; set a basin in the steamer, pour in the mixture and 
steam one hour; beat whites with one tablespoonful of sugar to a 
stiff froth; spread over pudding and brown in oven five minutes; 
stir while steaming or the sago will settle to the bottom. 

Suet Pudding. 
One small cup of suet cut fine, one cup of molasses, one cup 
chopped raisins, one cup sour milk, half a teaspoonful each of 
cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, and one teaspoonful of soda. Stir 
thick with flour, and put in pudding bag, leaving room to rise, and 
boil three hours. 

Steamed Pudding. 
One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, three eggs, one cup of 
milk, three heaping teaspoonf uls of baking powder, and three cups 
of flour; steam one hour. 

Snow Pudding. 
Pour one pint of boiling water on half a box of gelatine; add 
juice of one lemon and two cups sugar; when nearly cold, strain it, 
add the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, then beat all 



132 DESSERTS. 

well together again, put it into a mold to shape it, and let it cooL 
Take the yolks of these eggs, one pint milk, and one teaspoonf ul 
corn starch, flavor with vanilla; cook this like any soft custard, put 
the hard part of the pudding into a dish, when you want to serve it, 
with the custard round it. 

Steamed Pudding. 
One cup sweet milk, two-thirds cup butter, one cup molasses, one 
cup chopped raisins, three cups flour, two-thirds teaspoonful soda. 
Put into a covered pail and steam three hours. 

Strawbeert Short Cake. 

Rub into one quart of flour five ounces of lard, a pinch of salt, 
and three tablespoonfuls of baking powder; add gradually enough 
milk to make a soft dough; divide into four parts; roll one part 
out lightly; cover a straight-sided Vienna cake tin with it. Roll 
out another part and lay it on top of the first. Proceed in the same 
way with the other two parts, usii-g mother baking tin. Bake 
quickly, and when done, while hot, lift the upper part from each 
pan, butter the inner surfaces, and place between the two crusts a 
layer, an inch thick, of fresh berries, mashed and sweetened. Serve 
immediately, with cream. A raspberry shortcake may be made 
with the same pastry. 

Custard to pour over Straioberry Shortcake. — One cup sugar, one 
tablespoonful corn starch, on. gg, and one pint of milk. Flavor 
and cook as custard. 

SrRATTBrRTJT Shortcake, ITo. 2. 
Mix a saltspoonful of salt with a pound of flour; chop in three 
tablespoonfuls of butter; dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a little 
hot water, and add with a well-beaten o^g to a large cup of sour 
cream or rich " lobbered " milk, and a tablespoonful of sugar. Put 
all together, handling as little as possible, and mix as soft as can be 
rolled. Roll lightly and quickly into two sheets, and bake m round 
tins, well greased, laying one sheet on the other. Wlien done. 



DESSERTS. 133 

separate, they -will part where they were joined. Lay on the 
lower sheet a thick layer of strawberries, and dust with powdered 
sugar. If desired, strawberries can be placed on top and sugared 
as before. Serve with sweet cream. If the strawberries are just 
heated a little and crushed lightly with a spoon and then put 
between the crusts, it is much improved. 

Tapioca Pudding. 
Put a cup of tapioca and a teaspoonful of salt into a pint and a 
half of water and let it stand a couple of hours where it will be 
quite warm and not cook. Peel six tart apples, take out their cores 
and fill them with sugar in which is grated a little nutmeg and 
Ifemon peel, and put them in a pudding dish. Over these pour the 
ftapioca, first mixing with it a tablespoonful of melted butter and a 
little cold milk. Bake one hour. Eat with sauce. 

Tapioca Pudding, No. 2. 
One cup tapioca, soaked in water an hour, one quart milk, threo 
€ggs, one cup sugar. Bake. 

To Cook Rice. 

To cook rice so that the grains will be whole and tender, wash it 
in cold water until the water looks clear, then cook it rapidly in 
boiling water for fifteen minutes, after which drain and place the 
covered saucepan on the back of the stove to steam until the grains 
crack open and are tender, which will be about fifteen minutes 
longer. 

'Vegetable Pudding. 

Half a pound of carrots, half a pound of cold, mashed potatoes, 
the same of flour, suet, sugar, four ounces candied lemon peel, one- 
quarter of a pound of currants. Boil slowly for two hours. 

Whipped Syllabubs. 
One pint of cream, rich and sweet, one-half cup sugar, powdered, 
one glass of wine, vanilla, or other extract one large teaspoonfuL 



134 DESSPmTS. 

Sweeten the cream, and, wlion (ho sugar is thoroughly dissolved, 
Btir in the wine carefully with the flavoring extract, and churn to a 
strong froth. Heap in glasses and eat with cake. 

Yankee Pudding. 

One cup of molasses, one cup of sour milk or buttermilk, one-half 
cup sugar, two teaspoonf uls of butter, two teaspoonf uls of saleratus, 
ono teaspoonful of ginger, same of cinnamon, five of flour, one egg; 
bake in a shallow pan. 

Sauce. — One pint of milk or cream, half cup sugar, white of one 
eggi beaten lightly, one teaspoonful of corn starch; flavor with 
nutmeg. Boil one minute. 

Pudding Sauce. 
A nice and easily made sauce for plum and all kinds of rich pud- 
dings may be made as follows: Beat the yolks of two eggs, and 
add four ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of Madeira, and 
set it upon a slow fire and stir until it becomes smooth, and 
thickens. Serve in a sauce-tureen. 

Sweet Sauce. 

Sweeten a little good, melted butter, and flavor it with grated 
lemon rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, strew a little of the 
grate over the top, and serve in a tureen. A little wine or brandy- 
may be added at pleasure. This sauce is suitable for almost aH 
ordinary boiled puddings. 

Fruit Sauce. 

Boil fruit (almost any kind may be used) with a little water until 
it is quite soft; rub it through a fine sieve; sweeten to taste; make 
it hot, and pour over boiled or steamed puddingrf. 

Fruit Pudding Sauce. 
One-half cup butter, two and one-half cups sugar, one dessert- 
spoonful corn starch wet in- a little cold milk, one lemon — juice and 
half the grated peel, one glass of wine, one cup boiling water. 



DESSERTS. l.T» 

Cream the butter and sugar well; pour tlio corn starch into tho 
boiling water, and stir over a clear tire until it Ih well thickened; 
put all together in a bowl and beat five miiiutiiH heforc; rtituruing to 
the Hau(;epan. Heat once, almost to the boiling point, add the 
wine, and serve. 

Abrowroot Sauce. 

Mix a tablcHpoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold 
water; add a third of a pint of water, a glass of wine, the juice of 
a lemon, and sugar and flavoring; stir the sauce ovcfr tlu; fire till 
it boils. This Hauc(! may be vari(!d by omitting tlu; wine, and using 
milk with the arrowroot. Tho juice of almost any fruit, too, may 
be boiled with the anowroot. 

German Custard Sauce. 

Four yolks eggs, two ounces powdered sugar, grated rind of a 
lemon, a glass of sherry, and a little salt, licat it sharply over a 
slow fire, until it assumes the appearance of a light, frothy custard. 
It is a good sauce. 

Pudding Sauce. 

Two eggs, two cup's sugar, and one cup butter, one glass of wine; 
beat all well together till creainy, and set over the fire a few 
minutes to scald through once, or set it in the tea kettle top to heal 
through. 

PuFP Paste. 

Use for each pound of butter one pound of (lour. First tlio 
butter should be worked or kneaded with the hand until all tho 
buttermilk or water which may be in it is sque(!zed out. Wet the 
hand and th<; molding board willi (;oId water. Tlus butter munt 
not be put in with the cracks in if, whi(;h you will s(;(^ on breaking 
it, for these makt; tlie pastry full of *lak(;H. J>y working with the 
hand a smooth evcai pastci can be ma<le without melting the butter. 
After working, wraj) in a towffl dusted with flour and put in a cool 
place. Mix one pound of flour, the yolk of one egg, one teaspoon* 
ful of butter, the juice of a ](!mon, and a saltspoonful of salt, with 



136 DESSERTS. 

cold water enough to make a paste as soft as bread dough. The 
lemon juice is for making the dough tender, and the egg is used 
simply to give a yellowish appearance to the crust. This is the 
French method of preparing paste. The pastry is worked to mix 
the gluten with the water to make, first, a slightly tough dough to 
hold the butter; the lemon juice afterward makes it tender. It 
should be kneaded about five minutes. You can always tell when it 
is kneaded enough, because it will then pull away from the hand 
and not stick. Roll it out about the size of a large dinner plate, 
lay in it the butter, fold the sides over, turn it over and roll into a 
strip three times as long as it is wide, square at the corners, and 
one-quarter of an inch thick. Fold one-third over the middle and 
the other third over that, making three layers; roll again into a 
strip three times as long as it is wide. Fold a second time and roll 
out again in the same way. Fold again and wrap in a cloth, place 
it in a pan and set where it will get very cold. This is called 
giving the pastry " one turn." When it is made by fine confec- 
tioners it usually has six " turns." 

Pie Ceust. 
Into one quart sifted flour, thoroughly mix two heaping tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, and sift again. Weigh out three-quar- 
ters of a pound good butter. Take half of it and chop into the 
flour until it is very fine. Then add enough cold water (ice water 
is the best) to make a stiff dough. Roll out into a thin sheet and 
baste with one-third the remaining butter, then roll it up closely 
into a long roll, flatten and re-roll, then baste again. Repeat this 
operation until the butter is gone. Then make out your crust. Do 
it all as quickly as possible. The quantity of butter may be 
increased or decreased to suit the taste, following the other direc- 
tions as stated. 

Good and Cheap Pie Crust. 
One quart sifted flour, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping tea- 
epoonfuls baking powder; mix thoroughly together while dry, and 



DESSERTS. 137 

sift. Then add cold sweet milk enough to make a stiff dough, and 
roll out as usual. Use the " Pie Crust Glaze " on both the bottom 
and top crusts, as per following recipe. Some prefer less of the 
baking powder in the pie crust. A trial will determine what quan- 
tity best suits your taste. 

Pie Ckust Glaze. 

To prevent the juice soaking through into the crust and making 
it soggy, wet the crust with a beaten egg just before you put in the 
pie mixture. If the top of the pie is wet with the egg it gives it a 
beautiful brown. 

Pie Crust foe Four Small Pies. 

One and a half cups lard, one cup cold water, three and a half 
cups flour, mix lard and flour together; add water last. 

Tart Crust. 

One cup of lard, one-half teaspoonf ul of salt, the white of an egg, 
one-quarter teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one tablespoonful of 
sugar, one-eighth teaspoonful of saleratus, three tablespoonfuls of 
ice water; flour to roll; mix lard with one cup of flour; add salt, 
sugar, and cream of tartar; beat egg; mix with water and saleratus, 
all together; keep the dough cold; add flour to roll, one-quarter of 
an inch" thick. The above makes eighteen tarts. 

Icing Pastry. 

When nearly baked enough, take the pastry out of the oven and 
sift fine powdered sugar over it. Replace it in the oven, and hold 
over it a hot salamander or shovel till the sugar is melted. The 
above method is preferred for pastry to be eaten hot; for cold, 
beat up the whites of two eggs well, wash over the tops of the pies 
with a brush, and sift over this a good coating of sugar; cause it 
to adhere to the egg and pie crust; trimdle over it a clean brush, 
dipped in water, till the sugar is all moistened. Bake again for 
about ten minutes. 



13S DESSERTS, 

Puff Paste with Beef Suet. 

When you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the fol- 
lowing is an excellent substitute: Skin and chop one pound of 
kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, 
moistening with a little oil, till it become as it were one piece, 
about the consistency of butter. 

Apricot Pie. 

Pare, stone, and half the apricots; place them in a pie dish, piling 
them high in the center, strew over them a little sifted sugar, and 
a few of the kernels, blanched and chopped fine. Cover them with 
a good, light crust and bake in a moderate oven. 

Apple Pie. 

Fill the pie crust with sour, juicy apples, pared and sliced thin, 
put on the upper crust and bake until the apples are soft, then 
remove the upper crust, adding sugar to taste, a small piece of 
butter, and a little grated nutmeg; stir this well through the apple 
and replace the crust. 

Apple Custaed Pie. 

Peel sour apples and stew until soft and not much water left in 
them, then rub them through a colander, beat three eggs for each 
pie to be baked, and put in at the rate of one cup of butter and one 
of sugar for three pies. Line the pie tins with paste, put in the 
apples first, spread the beaten eggs, butter and sugar, flavored with. 
nutmeg over it. Bake as pumpkin pie. 

Boiled Cider Pie. 

A boiled cider pie may be a novelty to some one. Take four 

tablespoonfuls of boiled cider, three tablespoonfuls each of sugar 

and water, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one egg; beat all 

together. Bake in a deep plate and with upper and under crusts. 

Banaka Pie. 
Slice raw bananas, add butter, sugar, allspice, and vinegar^ or 
boiled cider or diluted jelly. Bake with two crusts. 



DESSERTS. 139 



Cracker Pik 



Soak ten crackers in one and one-half cups of boiling water, add 
•ne cup of molasses, one cup sugar, one cup butter, one cup raisins, 
two-thirds cup of vinegar, one-half nutmeg, one-half teaspoonfuk 
ground cloves, one teaspoonful cinnamon. Bake with two crusts^. 

Chocolate Pie, 
One coffeecup milk, two tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, three- 
fourths cup sugar, yolks of three eggs. Heat chocolate and milk: 
together; add the sugar and yolks together, beaten to cream. 
Flavor with vanilla. Bake with under crust. Spread meringue of 
the whites over the top. 

CocoANUT Pie. 

Open the eyes of a cocoanut with a pointed knife or gimlet, and 
pour out the milk into a cup; then break the shell and take out th« 
meat and grate it fine. Take the same weight of sugar and the 
grated nut and stir together; beat four eggs, the whites and yolk» 
(separately, to a stiff foam; mix one cup of cream and the milk of 
the cocoanut with the sugar and nut, then add the eggs and a few 
drops of orange or lemon extract. Line deep pie-tins with a nic© 
orust, fill them with the custard, and bake carefully one-half aa 
hoar. 

Jelly Custard. 

To one cup of any sort of jelly, add one egg and beat well' 
together with three teaspoonfuls cream or milk. After mixing^ 
thoroughly, bake in a good crust. 

Custard Pie. 
Line a deep plate with pie crust and fill with a custard made of 
one pint of milk, three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of white sugar 
and a pinch of salt; flavor with nutmeg; bake until firm in the 
center; this you can tell by inserting the handle of a teaspoon; do 
not let the oven get hot enough to boil it. 



140 DESSERTS. 

Cream Pie. 

Poui j^ pint of cream upon a cup and a half of powdered sugar; 
let it 8^,and till the whites of three eggs have been beaten to a stiff 
froth; add this to the cream, and beat up thoroughly, grate a little 
nutmeg over the mixture and bake as custard pies. 

Cream Pie, No. 2. 
Three eggs, one cup sugar, one and one-fourth cups flour, juice 
and grated rind of lemon, half teaspoonf ul soda dissolved, and one 
tablespoonful cold water, stirred in the last thing. Bake in round 
sheets. 

Custard for Cream Pie. 

A little more than half pint milk, half cup flour, one cup sugar, 
two eggs. Boil, when cold, spread on the cakes and lay them 
together. This receipt makes two pies. 

Delicate Pie. 

To stewed apples sufficient for four pies, one-half pound of 

butter, six eggs, beaten separately, one pound of sugar; flavor with 

lemon, the apples being quite cold before adding the eggs. Bake 

as a tart pie. 

Lemon Pie. 

One cup of hot water, one tablespoonful of corn starch, one cup of 
white sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, the juice and grated rind 
of one lemon. Cook for a few minutes, add one Qgg, and bake 
with a top and bottom crust. 

Fruit Pie. 
Line a soup plate with a rich paste, and spread with a layer of 
strawberry or raspberry preserves; over which sprinkle two table- 
spoonfuls of finely-chopped almonds (blanched of course), and one- 
half ounce of candied lemon peel cut into shreds. Then mix the 
following ingredients: One-half pound white sugar, one-quarter 
pound butter, melted, four yolks and two whites of eggs, and a few 
drops of almond essence. Beat well together and pour the mixture 



DESSERTS. 141 

into the soup plate over the preserves, etc. Bake in a moderately 
■warm oven. When cold, sprinkle or sift a little powdered sugar 
over the top. A little cream eaten with it is a great addition. 

Lemon Pie, No. 2. 
The juice and grated rind of one lemon, one cup of white sugar, 
the yolks of two eggs, three tablespoonf uls of sifted flour, and suf- 
ficient milk to fill a plate. Make with undercrust, but not the 
uppercrust. Bake till nearly done and then add a frosting made of 
the beaten whites of two eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar, and set back in the oven and brown slightly. 

Mince Meat. 
One pint of chopped meat, two pints of chopped apples, one pint 
each of molasses and vinegar, two pints of sugar, one tablespoonful 
each of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, a cup of chopped suet or 
butter, a little salt, and a little brandy if liked. Add raisins when 
the pies are baked. 

Mince Meat. 

Two pounds of lean beef boiled; when cold chop fine; one pound 

of suet minced to a powder, five pounds of juicy aj^ples, pared and 

chopped, two pounds of raisins, seeded, two pounds of sultanas or 

seedless raisins, two pounds of currants, one-half pound of citron, 

chopped, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of 

mace, one tablespoonful of allspice, one tablespoonful of fine salt, 

one grated nutmeg, three pounds of brown sugar, one-half gallon 

©f sweet cider. Mince meat made by this recipe will keep till 

spring. 

Mince Pie. 

It is supposed you have your meat ready for the paste. Make 
the paste by rubbing into a quart of your best flour one-third 
of a pound of sweet lard; chop it in with a broad knife, if you have 
time; wet up with ice water; roll out very thin and cover with 
4abs of butter, also of the best; fold into a tight roll; flatten with, 
a few strokes of the rolling-pin, and roll out into a sheet as thin a? 



142 DESSERTS. 

the first; Dasce again with the butter; roll up and out into a third 
sheet hardly thicker than drawing paper; a third time dot with 
butter and fold up closely. Having used as much butter for this 
|)urpose as you have lard, set aside your roll for an hour on ice, or 
In a very cold place ; then roll out, line your pie plates with the 
paste, fill with mince meat, put strips across them in squares or 
trianglea and bake in a steady and not dull heat. 

Mince Pie, No. 2. 
Boil a piece of beef weighing six pounds, and a beef's tongue 
•weighing six pounds, six hours. Then skin the tongue, chop it and 
the beef fine; add five pounds beef suet chopped fine, five pounds 
raisins stoned, three pounds dried currants, one and one-half pound 
•citron, four pounds brown sugar, one pint good molasses, one quart 
brandy, one quart wine, or, omit these, and add in their place 
foiled cider; half a cup each of salt, cinnamon, allspice and cloves, 
three nutmegs and a tablespoonf ul of mace. Mix all well together, 
and let it stand over night. Mix apples stewed when you make 
the pies, as the meat keeps better without apple. Keep it in a 
atone jar. You should have about a third as much apple as you 
have of the mince meat for a batch of pies. 

Mince Meat Without Meat. 
Take nine lemons, squeeze out the juice, boil the rinds and pulp 
(remove seed) in three or four waters till bitterness is out and 
xinds quite tender; beat them to a pulp; two and one-half pounds 
beef suet after it is picked from the skins, two pounds currants 
after they are picked and washed, one and one-half pounds raisins 
after they are stoned, two ounces almonds, two pounds sugar, one- 
half pound citron, a glass of brandy, and one of any kind of sweet 
wine; mix all these ingredients well together with the juice from 
the lemons, and as many sweetmeats as you please, 

Maelbobotjgh Pie. 
€^rate six apples, one cup sugar, three tablespoonfuls melted 



DESSERTS. 143 

butter, four eggs, juice and grated rind of a lemon, two tablespoon- 
fuls brandy or wine, if you choose; if not, omit it. Bake in an 
under, but without top crust. 

Orange Pie. 

Take four good-sized oranges, peel, seed, and cut m very small 
pieces. Add a cup of sugai*, and let stand. Into a quart of nearly 
boiling milk stir two tablespoonfuls of corn starch mixed with a 
little water, and the yolks of three eggs. When this is done, 
let it cool, then mix with the oranges. Put it in simply a lower 
crust. Make a frosting of the whites of the eggs and one-half cup 
sugar. Spread it over top of pies, and place for a few seconds in 
the oven to brown. 

Cream Peach Pie. 

Pare ripe peaches and remove the stones; have your pie dishes 
ready lined with a good paste, fill with the peaches; stew these 
with sugar; lay the upper crust on lightly, slightly buttering the 
lower at the point of contact. When the pie is done, lift the cover 
and pour in a cream made thus: One cup (small) of rich milk, 
heated; whites of two eggs, whipped and stirred into the milk; 
one tablespoonful of sugar; one-half teaspoonful of corn starch wet 
up in milk. Boil three minutes. The cream must be cold when it 
goes into the hot pie. Replace the crust, and set by to cool. Eat 
fresh. 

Pine-Apple Pie. 

One granted pine-apple, its weight in sugar, half its weight in 
butter, five eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth, one cup of 
cream; cream the butter and beat it with the sugar and yolks until 
very light; add the cream, the pine-apple and the whites of the 
eggs. Bake with an under crust. To be eaten cold. 

Pumpkin Pie. 
Pare the pumpkin and take out the seeds without scraping the 
inside; stew and strain through a sieve. To every quart of milk 
add five eggs, and stir the pumpkin into the milk and eggs until 



in DKSSKRTS. 

tlio proper consist enoy; swootiMi with sugar or [he host syrup; 
molrtssos makos it too strong. Add some salt, powdered oiunamon, 
powdorod ginger and the grated peel of lemon. Btvke in either deep 
or shallow ilishes in a hot oven. 

ToTAro Pie. 

One pound n\ashed potato, rubbed through a colander; ono-fourth 
}>ound ot" butti r, iTt\in\ed witli the sugar; six ei::ii"s, whites and 
yolks beaten separately; i>ne leinini, squeezed into the potato while 
hot; oni> teaspi>ouful of nutmeg and the same of maee; two cups 
o{ white sugar. Cream the butter and sugar; add the yolks, the 
spiee, and beat in the potato gr:ulually until it is very light. At 
last, whip in the whites. Hake in open shells of paste. Eat cold. 

8wKKr Potato Pik. 

A plate deeper than the common pie plate is necessary. Bsike 
mediutn-si/.ed potatoes, not quite done. Yams are best. Line tlio 
plate with good pjvste; slice the potatoes; place a layer upon the 
bottom of the plate; over this sprinkle thickly a layer of good 
brown sugar; over this place thin slices of butter and sprinkle with 
tloiir. si>asoniug with spices to the taste. A heaped tablespoonful 
of butter ami a lu>aped teaspoonful of tlonr will be sulhcient for one 
pie. Put on auiuher layer of potatoes, piled a little in the middle. 
^li\ together cipial quantities lemon juice and water, or vinegar 
anil water and pour in enough to half till the pie; sprinkle over the 
potato a little tlo\ir ami place on the upper crust, pinching tho 
edges carefully together. Cut a slit in the center and bake slowly 
an hour. 

SwKKr Por.vro Pik, Ko. 2. 

Koll potatoes until tender, pare and put through a col.ander or 
sieve. To one }>iut iU" potato adil one pint of milk, three eggs, and 
from one to two cups sugar, to suit taste; tlavor with ginger or 
leiuou. 



DKHHFAITH. J J.I 

Appi-k or Pbacii Mkbinour PrR. 
Stew the applf-H or pca/^yioH arifl HWfeotfin to tastn. Mawh Bmooth 
and H<'aHon with nutriic;^. Fill the. cniHiM and }>ak«! until jnHt done, 
I*ut on no toj* crnHtn. Takf; the wliitr;H f>f tliroe cggH for <;a<;h pio 
and whip to a HtifT frofJi, and HW(!<'.t(;n with tlin^c! tablr;Hpoonfn|« 
powdered HUgar. Flavor with roHO water or vanilla, lieat until it 
will 'stand alone, tJien Hpread it on the pie one-half to oni; ineJi 
thick, and set back into the oven until the meringue in well " naC 
Eat cold. 

Pkacii Pik. 

Peel, Htone and Hlice the pea^jhen; lin*; a pio plate with eniHt and 
lay in your fruit, H[»rinkiing HUgar liberally ovf^r tlierri in pro[)ortion 
to tlufir BWcetneHH. Allow three pe;i<;h kerfielw chopperl fine to each 
pie; pour in a very little water and hake with an upper cruat, or 
with croHS-barn of paste acroKH tlie to[». 

Ql'ince Pib. 
Pare, Hlicc, and ntew nix fjuinceH till Hoft; press them through a 
uieve; add to them one pint milk and four well-beaten eggs. 
Sweeten to taste, and hake in a }>ottom crust three-fourths of an 
hour in a moderate oven, 

Ckkam TlAHPnKnuY Vie. 
Line a pie-dish witli puff paste, and fill with raspberries, sweet- 
ened }>ountiful]y Cover with a paste crust, but do not pinch this 
down at the edges. Also rub the edge of the lower crust with 
butter to prevent adluision, Jiake in a good oven. While it is 
cooking, heat a small eup of rieli milk, putting in a pinch of soda; 
gtir into it half a teaspoonful of corn starch, wet in cold rnilk, one 
tablespoonful of wliite sugar, and cook three minutes. Take it off, 
and beat in the frothed whites of two eggs. Whip to a cream, and 
let it get cold. WIkju tlie [tie comes out of the oven, lift the top 
crust and pour in the mixture; nplacc flic crust and set aside t» 

cool; «ift sugar upon the top before serving. 
10 



146 DESSERTS. 

Raisin Pik. 

One lemon — ^juice and yellow rind, one cup of raisins, one cup of 
water, one cup of rolled crackers; stone the raisins, and boil in 
water to soften them. 

Rhubarb Pie, 

One and one-half bunches rhubard, one and one-quarter cups 
trugar. Cut the fruit in small pieces after stripping oflE the skin, 
and cook it very fast in a shallow stewpan, with sugar. Line a pie 
plat<j with the paste; wet the rim; add the rhubarb, cold; lay 
three bars of paste across, fastening the ends; lay three more 
acrosfcf, forming diamond-shaped spaces; lay round a rim, wash, 
over with egg, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minuteSi 

Rice Pie. 
For two pies, take two tablespoonfuls of rice; wash and put it 
into a farina boiler with a quart of milk; cook until perfectly soft. 
Let it cool; add three eggs, well beaten, with three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and one of butter, a little salt, cinnamon and a few stoned 
raisins. Bake with undercrust. 

Squash Pie. 

Pare the squash and remove the seeds; stew until soft and dry; 
then pulp it through a colander; stir into the pulp enough sweet 
milk to make it thick as batter; spice with ginger, cinnamon, nut- 
meg, or other seasoning to taste; sweeten with sugar and add four 
beaten eggs for each quart of milk. Fill a pie plate lined with 
crust and bake one hour. 

ViNEGAB Pies. 

One and one-half cups good vinegar, one cup of water, lump of 
butter size of an egg, sugar enough to sweeten to the taste; flavor 
with lemon; put in stewpan on stove; take five eggs, beat the yolks 
with one cup of water and two heaping teaspoonfuls of flour; 
when the vinegar comes to a boil, put in the eggs and flour, stirring 
till well cooked; have ready crust for four pies, put in the filling 



DESSERTS. 147 

and bake. Beat the whites with two teaspoonfuls of white sugar 
to a froth, spread on the pies when done, and color in the oven. 
These are excellent. 

Tarts. 
Use the best of puff paste; roll it out a little thicker than the pie 
crust, and cut with a large biscuit-cutter twice as many as you 
intend to have of tarts; then cut out of half of them a small round, 
in the center, which will leave a circular rim of crust; lift this up 
carefully, and lay on the large pieces. Bake in pans, and fill with 
any kind of preserves, jam, or jellj. 




CHAPTER IX. 
(gggs anb ©mclcta, 

OU are no doubt interested in knowing how 
to preserve eggs, and how to detect the poor 
ones. 

To ascertain the freshness of an egg, hold 
it between your thnnib and forefinger in a 
horizontal position, with a strong light in 
front of you. The fresh egg will have a 
clear appearance, both upper and lower 
sides being the same. The stale egg will 
have a clear appearance at the lower side, while the upper side 
will exhibit a cloudy appearance. 

Another test is to put them in a pan of cold water; the first 
to sink are the freshest; the stale will rise and float on top; or, 
if the large end turns up in the water, they are not fresh. The 
best time for preserving eggs is during July and August. 

To preserve eggs and keep them fresh from summer until 
spring, take a piece of quick-lime as large as a good sized lemon, 
and two teacupfuls of salt; put it into a large vessel and slack it 
with a gallon of boiling water. It will boil until thick as cream; 
when it is cold, pour off the top, which will be perfectly clear. 
Drain ofi" this liquor, and pour -it over your eggs; see that the 
liquor more than covers them. A stone jar is the most con- 
venient. This is reliable. 

The white of the egg contains more water than the yolk. It 
contains no fatty matter but consists chiefly of albumen in a dis- 
solved state. All the fatty matter of the egg is accumulated in 
the yolk, which contains relatively a smaller proportion of nitro- 
genous matter and a larger proportion of solid matter than the 
white. Therefore, in an alimentary point of view, the white and 

148 



EGGS AND OMELETTES. 149 

the yolk differ considerably from each other, the former being, 
mainly a simjjle solution of albumen, the latter being a solution of 
a modified form of albumen together with a quantity of fat. 

Raw and lightly boiled eggs are easy of digestion. It is said 
that raw eggs are more easily digested than cooked ones; but this 
may be doubted if the egg is not over-cooked. A hard-boiled egg 
presents a decided resistance to gastric solution, and has constipa- 
tory action on the bowels. 

Breaded Eggs. 

Boil hard and cut in round, thick slices; pepper and salt and dip 
each in beaten raw egg, then in fine bread crumbs or powdered 
cracker crumbs and fry in butter, hissing hot. Drain off every 
drop of grease and serve hot. 

Egg a la Mode. 
Remove the skin from a dozen tomatoes, medium size, cut them 
up in a saucepan, add a little butter, pepper and salt ; when suffi- 
ciently boiled, beat up five or six eggs, and just before you serve, 
turn them into the saucepan with the tomato, and stir one way for 
two minutes, allowing them time to be well done. 

How TO Bake Eggs. 
Butter a clean, smooth saucepan, break as many eggs as will be 
needed into a saucer, one by one. If found good, slip it into the 
dish. No broken yolk allowed, nor must they crowd so as to risk 
breaking the yolk after being put in. Put a small piece of butter on 
each, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set into a well-heated 
oven, and bake till the whites are set. If the oven is rightly heated, 
it will take but a few minutes, and is far more delicate than fried 

eggs. 

Egg Baskets. 

Boil quite hard as many eggs as will be needed. Put into cold 
water till cold, then cut neatly into halves with a thin, sharp knife; 
remove the yolk and rub to a paste with some melted butter. 



150 EGGS AND OMELETTES. 

adding pepper and salt. Cover up this paste and set aside till the 
filling is ready. Take cold roast duck, chicken, or turkey which. 
may be on hand, chop fine and pound smooth, and while pounding- 
mix in the paste prepared from the yolks. As you pound moisten 
with melted butter and some gravy which may have been left over 
from the fowls ; set this paste when done over hot water till well 
heated. Cut off a small slice from the end of the empty halves of 
the whites so they will stand firm, then fill them with this paste; 
place them close together on a flat, round dish, and pour over the 
rest of the gravy, if any remains, or make a little fresh. A few 
spoonfuls of cream or rich milk improves this dressing. 

To Pickle Eggs. 

Sixteen eggs, one quart of vinegar, one-half ounce of black 
pepper, one-half ounce Jamaica pepper, one-half ounce of ginger; 
boil the eggs twelve minutes; dip in cold water and take off the 
ehell; put the vinegar with the pepper and ginger into a stew pan 
and simmer ten minutes; place the eggs in a jar, pour over the 
seasoned vinegar boiling hot, and when cold tie them down with a 
bladder to exclude the air; ready for use in a month. 

SCEAMBLED EgGS. 

Heat the spider and put in a little butter; have the eggs broken 
into a dish, salt and pepper them; add a small piece of butter; 
beat up just enough to break the eggs, then pour into the buttered 
spider; scrape them up from the bottom with a thin knife to 
prevent their cooking fast. Do not cook too dry. 

To Poach Eggs. 
Have the water well salted, and do not let it boil hard. Break the 
eggs separately into a saucer, and slip gently into the water; when 
nicely done, remove with a skimmer, trim neatly, arid lay each egg 
upon a small thin square of buttered toast, then sprinkle with salt 
and pepper. Some persons prefer them poached, rather than fried, 
with ham: in which case substitute the ham for toast. 



EGGS AND OMELETTEa 151 

Stuffed Eggs. 

Boil the eggs hard, remove the shells, and then cut in two either 
way, as preferred. Remove the yolks, and mix with them pepper, 
salt, and a little dry must::rd — some like cold chicken, ham, or 
tongue chopped very fine — and then stuff the cavities, smooth them, 
and put the halves together again. For picnics they can simply be 
wrapped in tissue paper to keep them together. If for home use, 
they can be egged, and bread-crumbed, and browned in boiling 
lard; drain and garnish with parsley. 

Omelette. 

First have fresh eggs, not omelette eggs (in restaurants all eggs 
that will not in any way do to boil, are put aside for omelettes), 
break the eggs in a bowl and to every egg add a tablespoonful of 
milk and whip the whole as thoroughly as you would for sponge 
cake. The omelette pan must be so hot that butter will melt almost 
brown in it but not quite. Then run the whipped egg and milk 
into the pan and put it directly over the fire. Take a thin-bladed 
knife and run it carefully under the bottom of the omelette so as to 
let that which is cooked get above. If the fire is right the whole 
mass will swell and puff and cook in just about one minute. Watch 
carefully that it does not burn. It is not necessary to wait till the 
whole mass is solid as its own heat will cook it after it has left the 
pan, but begin at one side and carefully roll the edge over and over 
till it is all rolled up, then let it stand a moment to brown. Turn 
Dut on a hot plate and serve immediately. 

Omelette, No. 2. 
Six eggs, one tablespoonful of flour, one cup of milk, a pinch of 
gait; beat the whites and yolks separately; mix the flour, milk and 
gait, add the yolks, then add beaten whites. .Have a buttered 
gpider very hot; put in. Bake in a quick oven five minutes. 



152 EGGS AND OMELETTES. 

Apple Omelettb. 

Eight large apples, four eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, nutmeg or cinnamon to taste. Stew the apples and 
mash line; add butter and sugar; when cold, add the eggs, well 
beaten. Bake until brown, and eat while warm. 

Bailed Omelette. 

Set one-half pint of milk on the fire and stir in one-half cup of 
flour mixed with a little cold milk and salt; when scalding hot, beat 
the yolks of six eggs and add them; stir in whites and set imme- 
diately in the oven. Bake twenty minutes and serve as soon as 
done. 

Oyster Omelette. 

Allow for every six large oysters or twelve small ones, one egg; 
remove the hard part and mince the rest very fine; take the yolks 
of eight eggs and whites of four, beat till very light; then mix in 
the oysters, season and beat all up thoroughly; put into a skillet a 
gill of butter, let it melt; when the butter boils, skim it and turn 
in the omelette; stir until it stiffens, fry light brown; when the 
under side is brown, turn on to a hot platter. If wanted the upper 
Bide brown, hold a red-hot shovel over it. 

Omelette Souffle. 

Stir five tablespoonfuls of sifted flour into three pints of milk, 
etram through a sieve; add the yolks of eight eggs, beaten very 
light, and, just as it goes into the oven, the whites beaten stiff. 
Bake quickly. 

French Omelette. 

One quart of milk, one pint of bread crumbs, five eggs, one table- 
epoonful of flour, one onion chopped fine, chopped parsley, season 
with pepper and salt. Have butter melted in a spider; when the 
©melette is brown, turn it over. DouMe when served. 



EGGS AND OMELETTES. 



153 



Omelette with J 1am. 

Make a plain omelette, and just before turning one-half over the 
other, sprinkle over it some finely chopped ham. Garmsh with 
small slices of ham. Jelly or marmalade may be added in the same 
manner. 

Egos a la Bonne Femme. 
Take six large eggs, boil them ten minutes; when cool, remove the 
ehells carefully; divide them equally in halves, take out the yolks, and 

cut off from each the pointed 
tip of the white, that they 
may stand flatly. Make tiny 
dice of some cold chicken, 
ham, boiled beet root, and 
the eggs. Fill the hollows 
with these up to the brim, 
and pile the dice high in the center — two of ham and chicken, two 
of boiled beetroot, and two with the hard yolks. Arrange some 
neatly cut lettuce on a dish and place the eggs amongst it. 




CHAPTER X. 
Jt0l). 

^^^^^-^ HOOSE those only in which the eye is full 
7^^^^~^^5^ and prominent, the flesh firm and thick, 

^^ ^^^^iL^t^'r^ , ^^^ scales bright and fins stiff. Some 

.^^fc^^^^^^^^T fish improve in firmness and flavor as 
W^^^^^^^^^Jk. they attain a certain age, as cod and had- 

..-^^^^mS^^^j^" dock, but when they get old they are 
"^^i ^^^^^ ^^^^r^M- coarse. The season of the year has a 

'' ^^^^^^0s^^m( great influence upon the quality of fish. 
"^"^^^^^^^^^ Fish are usually best just before they 
spawn, as smelts, mackerel, shad and sole; but as soon as spawn- 
ing is over they are unfit for food. 

The most digestible kinds of fish are those with white flesh, 
such as the cod, turbot, sole, whiting, haddock and flounder, the 
flesh of all these presenting a whitish appearance. Of the fish 
just mentioned, the whiting, haddock and flounder are easiest of 
digestion. 

The flesh of fish when in good condition is always fleshy and 
opaque; when it is of a bluish color, or appears slightly trans- 
parent after being boiled, it proves either that the flesh is out of 
season, or of inferior quality. 

Sometimes fish have been found to exert a poisonous action on. 
the system, producing headache, giddiness, and an eruption on the 
skin resembling that produced by being stung with nettles. In 
some cases, even death has been caused by this means. Although 
it may be true in some cases, that the ill effects' produced by fish 
may be due to the bad condition of health in which the patient 
hapj)ens to be at the time, yet in most cases it can only be attrib- 

154 



FISH. 155^^ 

uted to some poisonous principle developed in the fish. This may- 
be due to their being eaten in a season when the fish is out of health,, 
and, therefore, unfit for food, or it may be produced by the poison- 
ous natux-e of the food on which the fishes lived. 

Oysters, when fresh and in season, are very nutritious; when, 
however, they have a bluish appearance, they are liable to produce 
affections of the bowels. Salmon contains much nourishment, which 
is due to the oily matter which its flesh contains; and for this reason 
this fish is less suited for invalids than the white kind. 

Most kinds of fish lose their flavor soon after being taken from 
the water. The cod and one or two others are exceptions to this 
general rule. Fish are fresh when the eyes are clear, the fins stiff, 
the gills red, and without bad odor. Fresh shad have gills of quite 
a crimson red, bright scales and a firm body; and shad are unfit to 
eat when the gills are a whitish blue and the eyes are sunken. In 
a good salmon, when cut, the flesh should appear quite red, solid 
and flaky. The Dutch and French bleed the cod, which accounts 
for the better quality and whiteness of their codfish. All large 
fish, in fact, should be bled as soon as caught. 

Almost every kind of fish is either boiled, broiled or fried. Any 
small fish of the size of a smelt, or smaller, is better fried than pre- 
pared in any other way. Fish like salmon trout are best when 
baked and some fine sauce poured over them. A cup of diluted ' 
©ream, in which is stirred two tablespoonf uls of melted butter and 
a little chopped parsley, makes an excellent sauce for salmon trout. 

Bass weighing from one-half pound to a pound are best fried; 
those weighing from one to three pounds are best broiled, and 
•larger sizes are best when boiled. Very large bass are dry eating. 

They should be thoroughly cleansed, washed, and sprinkled with 
Bait. 

Before broiling fish, rub the gridiron with a piece of fat, to pre- 
vent its sticking. Lay the skin side down first. 

The earthy taste often found in fresh-water fish can be removed 
by soaking in salt and water. 



156 FISH 

Most kinds of salt fish should be soaked in cold water for twenty- 
four hours — the fleshy side turned down in the water. 

Baked Fish. 
Stuff it with plain dressing; put in a pan with a little water; salt 
pepper and butter. Baste while baking. A fish weighing foui 
pounds will oook in an hour. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs an(l 
parsley, and stc^rve with drawn butter or egg sauce. 

To Boil Fish. 
Sew them in a cloth, and put in cold water, with plenty of salt^ 
Most fish will boil in thirty minutes. 

Boiled Fish. 
For four or five pounds of fish, nearly cover with water, and add 
two heaping tablesp oonf uls of salt. Boil thirty minutes and serve 
with drawn butter. 

Baked Black Fish. 

Rub a handful of salt over the surface^ to remove the slime pecu- 
liar to the fish. For the stuflUng, two ounces of beef drippings, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and one ounce of salt pork; put 
in a saucepan and fry brown; then add a teaspoonful of chopped 
capers, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, one-half teaspoonful of 
salt, five ounces of bread, and one gill of broth; then stir until 
scalding hot; place inside the fish; cut a quarter of a pound of 
pork in thin slices and lay on either side of the fish, holding in 
place by twine around it — a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper 
completing it for the baking pan. Bake in a hot oven one-half 
hour, and serve on slices of fried bread with a sauce made of stock 
seasoned with one tablespoonf ul each of walnut and Worcestershire 
sauce, one tablespoonful of chopped capers, and one tablespoonful 
of parsley. 

Brook Trout. 

If small, fry them with salt pork; if large, boil, and serve with 
^rawn butter. 



FISH. l-'>7 

Flounders. 
These may be boiled or stewed; but we hold that they never do 
themselves so much credit as when making their appearance really 
well fried. 

Haxibut. 

Of all flat fish, a halibut is the largest, measuring sometimes 
about seven feet in length, and weighing from three hundred to 
four hundred pounds. In its proportions, the halibut is rather 
longer than other flat fish. The flesh has not much flavor, but is 
light and wholesome. To boil halibut plain, after scaling the skin 
on both sides, salt it for six hours, and (unless the piece is very 
large) plunge it in boiling water. The time of boiling, of course, 
will depend on the size. Serve, accompanied by white sauce made 
with milk instead of water, liberally dosed with butter and slightly 
seasoned with salt and a small pinch of scraped horse-radish. 
Shrimp or anchovy sauce goes well with it. Where there are the 
means and skill of frying well, halibut, cut into steaks of the proper 
thickness, and so prepared, is both sightly and palatable garnished 
with fried parsley. Some well-buttered sauce is desirable, to 
obviate its natural dryness. Slices from the middle of a halibut 
may be divided and trussed into convenient sized cutlets, by cutting 
them into equal halves directly through the vertebra. The same 
plan may be adopted with slices from the thick part of other large 
fish (cod, over-sized pike, and salmon), which it is customary to 
dress as steaks. We have never heard or road of halibut being in 
any way served whole. 

Peech, Eels and Small Pike 

Are excellent fried. 

Potted Eels. 

After cleaning your eels and cutting off their heads, cut them 
into pieces about two inches long. Put them into a brown earthen 
pot, to which, if there is not an earthen cover, have a tin one. 
Season them with salt, pepper, allspice, and a few sp'^Igrs of j)arslejt 



158 FISH. 

and thyme. Pour over the eels a little more vinegar and irater 
than will cover them; put on the lid and set the pot into a slow 
• oven. They should not be too much done. As soon as the flesh 
wll come away from the bones they are done enough. Herrings 
may be potted in the same way. 

Collared Eels. 
These, though a little more trouble than potted eels, make a very 
^ood and handsome dish. For this, the larger the eels the better; 
quite small eels can hardly be collared. Clean the eel, cut off the 
head, open it on the under side the whole of its length, wash it, 
take out the backbone, tearing the flesh as little as possible. Dry 
it by pressing it with a coarse cloth. You will then have a flat 
-Strip of eel flesh, broad at one end and narrow at the other. Season 
the inner surface of eel by dusting it with salt, pepper, and allspice. 
Then roll it tightly upon itself, as you would a ribbon, beginning 
at the broad end, until you have rolled it into a lump something 
like a short, thick sausage, blunt at both ends; tie it with broad 
tape (not with string, which would cut into the flesh when cooked) 
to keep it from unrolling, and then cook in an earthen pot with & 
lid exactly as you do potted eels. 

Sturgeon. 
There are few people so poor that they will consent to eat stur- 
geon, yet this fish, if properly cooked, affords, it is said, a luxurious 
meal. Get a few slices, moderately thick, put them in a pot or pan 
of water, and parboil them to get rid of the oil; then roll in crumbs 
of cracker and egg, just as you would a veal cutlet, and fry. This 
makes a veal cutlet that beats the original by far, and you are sure 
that it is " full six weeks old," as the butcher always certifies ia 
regard to the veal. 

Cods' Head. 

In some places, fishmongers take the heais off their codfish before 
<they cut up the rest of the fish to retail it by the pound. In that 
*ase the heads are sold cheap; and when they can be thus had they 



FIHn. 15f 

arc wftll worth the buying, Wf; have cnjoy<yl many a cheap fiijh 
treat with a dinh of codn' hea^Jn, which contain Hcveral of the tit- 
bitH prized by cpicuroM, narn<;ly, th<; tonguo, the cheek-pi<jce«, and 
the nap«; of the neck. After taking out the cye«, wawh the insadn, 
drain them, and, if you can let them lie all night with a little wait 
fipririkled over thern, they will be none the worwe for it. Put 
them into a kettle of boiling wat<;r and hoil from fifteen Ut twenty 
minutes, according to Kize. l>ifth them on a Htrainer, if you can, 
and help with a Hpoon. 

For-f,aucc, drawn butU^r is good. 

For Khaq> sauce, take a few tablespoonfuls of the cods' headii 
boilings; put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter or dripping 
and a tableKpoonful of vinegar; thicken with a little flour and keep 
stirring in one direction till they are all rained Hmooth and eorne t^j 
a boil. Both thene f-auee-i go well with any boiled fish. 'J'o th^iso 
we will add a third which will be found equally simple and good. 

For brown sauce, put a good lump of butter or dripping iiiU) a 
isaacepan. 8et it on a brisk fire, shake it around now and then, and 
keep it there until it is brownefl, not burnt. Take it off the fire 
and stir into it a good tablespoonful of vinegar. When they are 
well mixed, pour into your sauce-boat and serve. Tlia mixing of 
the vinegar with the hot fat had better be done out of doorn, on 
account of the quantity of vapor that arises when they are put 
together. 

Any meat remaining on the cods* heads after a meal should bo 
separated from the skin and bone before it gets cold. TVjis rule 
applies to all other fish. Arrange it neatly on a jAaUi and dust a 
little pepper and drop a little vinegar over it. It will furnish a 
nice little delicacy when cold, or you may warm it up with mashed 
potatoes, adding any sauce that may be left; or, after putting on it 
the cold sauce left, or a little butter, you may cover with mashed 
potatoes and sprinkle over it bread crumbs; pour over it beatea 
egg and brown in the oven. 



160 FISH. 

Fkesh Codfish. 
Cut it in slices and fry or broil; if fried, roll it first in flour. 

Saxt Codfish. 

Pick the fish up fine and let it soak for two hours, then rinse, an<J 
if fresh enough, cook in a little milk thickened wath flour; add two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and eggs to taste. The eggs may be 
beaten and stiri-ed in, or dropped into boiling water, and then put 
into the codfish gravy whole, or laid on a platter and have the fish 
poured over them. It may also be boiled and served with a gravy 
made of melted butter and flour. 

Scalloped Codfish. 
One quart of pickled codfish, one pint of bread crumbs, or rolled 
crackers, one-half pint of cream, four ounces of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of pepper; wash and freshen the fish. When ready, put 
it into a baking dish with the crumbs in alternate layers, with a 
little butter and pepper; have the top layer of crumbs and cover 
with beaten egg, then pour the cream over all and bake half an 
hour. 

Codfish Balls. 

Pick the fish fine, and freshen. Boil potatoes and mash them; 
mix fish and potatoes together while potatoes are hot, taking two- 
thirds potatoes and one-third fish. Put in plenty of butter; make 
into balls, and fry in hot lard. 

Salt Mackerel. 
Soak for a day or two, after taking out of the brine, in cold 
water, or buttermilk; lay in a pan with the flesh side down, and 
change the water occasionally. Just before cooking, lay it into a 
shallow dish and cover with hot milk, which removes the strong 
taste. Take it out of the milk and wipe dry with a napkin. Then 
lay on a gridiron and broil the same as fresh fish and serve with 
BRTice with lemon juice. 



FISH. 161 



Baked Cod. 



When purchasing a four-pound cod ask your fishdealer to send 
you three or four codfish heads. Rub a little salt on the fish, chop 
the heads into six pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over thera. 
Place them in the center of the baking-pan (to be used as supports 
for the fish), with two ounces of butter, one carrot, a turnip, a 
potato, and one onion cut into slices, two blades of mace, a tea- 
spoonful of white pepper, one tablespoonful of celery seed, six 
cloves, and a cup of red wine. Set the pan in the oven while you 
prepare the cod. Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of 
bread to fill the fish; drain off the water and pound the bread to a 
paste; mix with it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two raw 
eggs, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper 
to taste. Put this stuffing inside the fish and sew it up; place the 
cod in the pan with two or three pieces of butter on the top, and 
baste it frequently; when it is cooked lay the fish on a hot platter, 
and garnish with fried oysters if convenient. Add t\v^o tablespoon- 
fuls of prepared flour to the pan, a wineglass of sherry; mix and 
strain the gravy into a sauce-boat. 

Boiled Pike. 

If the fish is sent home split through the underside sew it up. 

Then run a thread through the fish so as to draw it into the shape 

of a letter S. Tie it fast, and then tie it up in a cloth. Not having 

any fish kettle, lower it into the pot of boiling water if it is 

small or a small piece, if a large fish put it into cold Avater. If a 

large fish is put into hot water the outside cooks first, but in cold 

water it cooks evenly through. While boiling add a tablespoonful 

of salt, a slice of lemon or a half cup of vinegar and a few cloves. 

When done lift the fish from the pot upon a platter, untie the cloth, 

and by gently scraping the skin down the sides, from the top of the 

back, you can take the whole fish from the shell and place upon a- 

dish for the table. 
11 



162 shell fish. 

Salmon. 

A delicious way to cook salmon is to boil it and serve "vrith a 
gravy made of butter, flour, pepper, salt, and i)lenty of oysters. 
Cook the oysters in a very little water, then stir into the sauce. 
You may prepare canned salmon in this way. 

SHELL FISH. 

Clams. 

To judge whether clams and oysters are fresh insert a knife, 
and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife, the oysters 
are fresh. If it shuts fiiintly or not at all they are dying or dead. 
A^Tien the shells of raw oysters are found gaining open they are 
not good. 

Clam Bake. 

Lay the clams on a rock, edge downward, forming a circle; 
cover them with fine brush, cover the brush with drj' sage, cover 
the sage with larger brush; set the whole on fire, and when the 
brush and sage are a little more than half burnt look at the clams 
by pulling some out, and if done enough brush the fire, cinders, 
etc., off"; mix some tomato or cauliflower sauce or catsup with 
the clams after being taken out of their shells; add butter and 
spices to taste and serve. 

Clam Chowder. 

Put in a pot some small slices of fat salt pork, enough to line the 
bottom of it; on that a layer of potatoes cut in small pieces; on the 
X)otatoes a layer of chopped onions; on the onions a layer of toma- 
toes in slices, or canned tomatoes; on these a layer of clams, whole 
or chopped (they are generally chopped), then a layer of crackers. 
Seiison with salt and pepper, and other spices if desired. Then 
repeat this process, layer after layer, in above order, seasoning 
each, until the pot is full, ^\^len the whole is in, cover with water, 



SHELL FISH. 



163 



set on a slo-w fire, and when nearly done stir gently, finish cooking 
und serve. 

When done, if found too thin, boil a little longer; if found too 
thick, add a little water, give one boil and serve. Fish Chowder 
is made exactly like clam chowder, except that fish are used instead 
of clams. 

Clam Feittees. 

Twelve clams, minced fine, one pint of milk, three eggs; add the 
liquor from the clams to the milk; beat up the eggs and add to this, 
with salt and pepper and flour enough for a thin batter; lastly add 
the chopped clams. Fry in hot lard, trying a little first to see if 
fat and batter are right. A tablespoonful makes a fritter of 
moderate size. Fry quickly and serve hot. 

Feied Clams. 
Take large soft-shell clams, dry them in a napkin, and dip them 
first in beaten egg and then powdered cracker or bread crumbs, and 
fry in sweet lard or butter or both miicd. 

Clam Pie. 

Take a quantity of clams, if large chop them, put in a saucepan 
and cook in their own liquor, or, if necessary, add a little water; 
"boil three or four medium-sized potatoes until done, then cut in 
slices; line a pudding-dish half way up its sides; turn a small teacup 
tottom up in the middle of the dish to keep up the top crust, put 
in first a layer of clams and then a few potatoes, season with bits 
of butter and a little salt and pepper and dredge with flour; add 
another layer of clams, and so on till the dish is filled; add the 
liquor in which the clams were cooked and a little water if neces- 
sary. There should be as much liquid as for chicken or other meat 
pie. Cover with top crust, cut places for steam to escape and bake 
three-fourths of an hour. 

Clam Stew. 

Put the clams in a stewpan with about the same quantity of 
Tff'*ci {13 the juice of the clams. Boil twenty-five or thirty minutes; 



164 SHELL FISH. 

remove all the scum that rises, and season with butter, salt and 
pepper. 

Clam Soup. 

Take the required number of clams, chop them fine, then cook in 
a little water with butter, pepper and salt; when almost done put 
in milk or cream, and in soup enough for four persons put one cup 
of rolled crackers. Serve hot. 

Crabs. 

To fit them for the table, living crabs require to be boiled in salt 
water; they are either placed in cold water which is then made 
hot or put at once into boiling water; crabs cooked by the latter 
method are found to have the finest flavor. The male crab is the 
most valuable for the table, and may be distinguished by possessing 
larger claws. In purchasing crabs in the living state preference 
should be given to those which have a rough shell and claws. 
When selecting a crab which has been cooked it should be held by 
its claws and well shaken from side to side. If it is found to rattle, 
or feels as if it contained water, it is a proof that the crab is of 
inferior quality. The crab may be kept alive, out of water, two or 
three days. 

Soft Crabs. 

Many will not eat hard-shell crabs, considering them indigestible, 
and not sufiiciently palatable to compensate for the risk they run in 
eating them. And it must be owned that they are, at their best, 
but an indifferent substitute for the more aristocratic lobster. But 
in the morning of life, for him so often renewed, his crabship is a 
different creature, and greatly affected by epicures. 

Do not keep the crabs over night, as the shells harden in twenty- 
four hours. Pull off the spongy substance from the sides, and the 
sand-bags. These are the only portions uneatable.. Wash well and 
wipe dry. Have ready a pan of seething hot lard or butter and fry 
them to a fine brown. Put a little salt into the lard; the butter 
will need none. Send up hot, garnished with parsley. 



166 SHELL FISH. 

Scalloped Crab. 
Pick out all the meat of the crab and mix thoroughly; add to it 
one-third its quantity of bread crumbs, a good lump of butter, 
divided into little bits; season with salt and pepper, a dust of 
grated nutmeg and a dessertspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice 
sprinkled over the mass. Mix all equally together. Clean out the 
bottom shell of your crab, and fill it with the mixture; what is left 
you may put into scallop-shells or tins. Set them into a moderately 
hot oven. When hot through and slightly browned on the surface 
they are fit to serve on a dish covered with a napkin, the crab-shell 
in the middle and the scallop-shells around it, garnished with sprigs 
of parsley. 

Frogs. 

Scald the hind quarters in boiling water, rub them with lemon 
juice and boil for three minutes, wipe them, dip them first in 
cracker dust, then in a mixture of two beaten eggs in half a cup of 
milk seasoned with pepper and salt, then again in cracker crumbs. 
When they are well covered with crumbs fry in a mixture of hot 
lard and butter. 

Lobster Croquettes. 

Chop the lobster very fine; mix with pepper, salt, bread crumbs 
and a little parsley; moisten with cream and a small piece of butter j 
ehape with your hands; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry. 

Lobster Cutlets. 

Mince the flesh of lobsters fine; season with salt, pepper and 
tjpice; melt a piece of butter in a saucepan; mix with it one table- 
spoonful of flour; add lobster and finely-chopped parsley; mix with 
some good stock; remove from the fire, and stir into it the yolks of 
two eggs; spread out the mixture, and, when cold, cut into cutlets, 
dip carefully into beaten egg, then into fine baked bread crumbs j 
let them stand an hour, and repeat, and fry a rich brown. Serve 
with fried parsley. 



SHELL FISH. 167 

Fried Lobster. 
If, when making a salad, you have more lobster than you wish to 
use for that, keep it in a cool place and fry in butter and bread 
crumbs for breakfast. 

Lobster Patties. 

Make some puff-paste and spread it on very deep patty pans. 

Bake it empty. Having boiled well two or three fine lobsters, 

extract all the meat and mince it very small, mixing it with the 

coral smoothly mashed, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg, grated. 

Season it with a little salt, some Cayenne, and some powdered mace 

or nutmeg, adding a little yellow lemon rind, grated. Moisten the 

mixture well with cream, fresh butter, or salad oil. Put it into a 

stewpan, add a very little water, and let it steam till it just comes to 

a boil. Take it off the fire, and the patties being baked, remove them 

from the tin pans, place them on a large dish, and fill them up to 

the top with the mixture. Similar patties may be made of prawns 

or crabs. 

Lobster Rissoles. 

Extract the meat of a boiled lobster; mince it as fine as possible; 
mix it with the coral pounded smooth, and some yolks of hard- 
boiled eggs, pounded also. Season it with Cayenne pepper, pow- 
dered mace, and a very little salt. Make a batter of beaten eggy 
milk and flour. To each egg allow two large tablespoonfuls of 
milk, and a large teaspoonful of flour. Beat the batter well, and 
then mix the lobster with it gradually, till it is stiff enough to make 
into oval balls about the size of a large plum. Fry them in the 
best salad oil, and serve them up either warm or cold. Similar 
rissoles may be made of raw oysters minced fine, or of boiled clams. 
These should be fried in lard. 

Lobster Salad. 
Pick the meat from the shell, cut into nice square pieces, cut up 
some lettuce and mix. Make a dressing of four tablespoonfuls of 
oil, two of vinegar, one of mustard, the- yolks of two eggs and pep- 



168 SHELL FISH. 

per and salt to taste; rub smooth together, forming a creamy look- 
ing sauce, and cover the lobster with it. Garnish with sliced 
cucumber pickles, egg-rings, parsley and cold beet cut in fancy 
shapes. 

Bkoiled Lobster. 
Cut the tail part of a lobster in two, rub a little sweet oil over 
the meat and broil. When done, brush a little butter over it with 
the juice of half a lemon and a very little Cayenne. Place the meat 
back into the shell and send to the table with a dish of broiled 
tomatoes and a fresh baked potato. 

Lobsters en Brochette. 

Cut up the tail of a lobster in square pieces; take a few thin 
slices of bacon and cut into lengths to match the lobster; place 
them on a skewer alternately and broil; baste as in broiled lobster 
and send to the table on a bed of water-cresses. 

Roasted Lobsters. 

When lobsters are half cooked, remove from the water and rub 

thoroughly with butter; lay before the fire; continue basting with 

butter until it has a fine froth and the shell becomes a dark brown. 

Place on a dish and serve with plain melted butter in a sauce-boat. 

Gratin of Lobster. 

Take out all the meat from a large lobster, then wash the body, 
tail, and shells, if the lobster is first cut in halves down the back, 
then dry and butter them and sprinkle with bread crumbs; chop 
the meat fine, with a little parsley and shallot, a few drops of 
essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, Cayenne pepper and salt, 
a little bechamel sauce, and boil all well together, add a yolk of 
'Qgg, put it to cool, then fill your shells or paper cases, cover with 
bread crumbs and some pieces of butter; brown them in the oven, 
and dish on a napkin. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Drain select oysters in a colander; dip them one by one into 



SHELL FISH. 169 

melted butter, to prevent sticking to the gridiron, and place them 
on a wire gridiron. Broil over a clear fire. When nicely browned 
on both sides, season with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, and 
lay them on hot buttered toast, moistened with a little hot water. 
Serve very hot, or they will not be nice. Oysters cooked in this 
way and served on broiled beefsteak are nice. 

Oyster Chowder. 

Fry out three rashers of pickled pork in the pot you make the 
•chowder; add to it three potatoes and two onions, b'oih sliced; boil 
until they are nearly cooked; soak two or three dozen crackers in 
cold water a few minutes, then put into the pot half a can of oys- 
ters, one quart of milk and tte soaked crackers. ^]^oil all together 
a few minutes; season with salt, pepper and butter. ^ Fish chowder 
can be made the same way by using fresh fish instead of oysters. 

Oyster Croquettes. 
Take the hard end of the oyster, leaving the other end in nice 
«hape for a soup or stew; scald them, then chop fine and add an 
equal weight of potatoes rubbed through a colander; to one pound 
of this add two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a 
•te^poonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of mace, and one-half gill 
•of cream; make in small rolls, dip in egg and grated bread, fry in 
deep lard. ^ ' ■ • 

Fricasseed Oysters.«| . 
Drain the liquor from a quart of oysters, strain half a pint and 
put in a porcelain kettle, and when it boils put in the oysters. 
Have a tablespoonful of flour rubbed well into two tablespoonf uls 
of butter. When the oysters begin to swell, stir in the butter and 
flour, cook until the oysters are white and plump; then add a gill 
■of cream and pepper and salt. 

Fried Oysters. 
Take large oysters, wash and drain. Dip them into flour; put in 
a hot frying pan with plenty of lard and butter; season with salt 



170 SHELL FISH. 

and pepper; fry brown on both sides. Fried in this way, they are 
similar to broiled oysters. 

Fried Oystebs, No. 2. 

Drain, remove all bits of shell, and sprinkle with pepper and salt^ 
and set in a cool place for ten minutes. Then, if the oysters are 
small, pour them into a pan of crackers, rolled fine; add liquor, mix 
well and let stand five minutes; add a little salt and pepper, mold 
into small cakes, with two or three oysters in each, roll in dry* 
crackers and fry in lard and butter. Serve hot in a covered dish. 

Chicken and Oyster Pie. 

Parboil a chicken; cut up and place in a pie dish; cover with 
oysters and season to taste; add two hard-boiled eggs cut inta 
slices, with a piece of butter, size of an egg, in the center; dust the 
whole with flour, and pour on one-half pint of milk; put on a puff- 
paste crust and bake about three-quarters of an hour in a moderate 
oven. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Prepare stale bread-crumbs, season to taste with pepper and salt;, 
butter a deep dish; cover the bottom with the crumbs; add a layer 
of large-sized oysters, with butter; fill the dish alternately with 
oystex-s, crumbs and butter. Bake m a hot oven until cooked 
entirely through; if they become too brown on the top, cover with 
paper. If preferred, scallop the oysters separately and serve in the 
shells, observing that the shells are well cleaned. Instead of crumbs 
use slices of well-buttered bread, if you like, or bake with a crust 
of puff-paste. 

Park Row Oyster Stew. 

Put the oysters into a stewpan with a little liquor to cover them; 
add a little butter, pepper and salt; stir every now and then while 
on the fire, and when poured into the dish, put in about a table- 
spoonful of milk to every ten oysters. 

Oyster soup is made in the same way, except that more liquor is 



SHELL FISH. 171 

added, and a tablespoonful of pounded butter crackers; add plenty 
of milk the last thing when the oysters are cooked, and let it boil 
up once. 

Maryland Stewed Otsteks. 

Put the juice into a saucepan and let it sinamer, skimming it care- 
fully; then rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and one large 
spoonful of flour well together, and stir into the juice. Cut in 
small pieces a quarter of a pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
whole allspice, a little salt, a little Cayenne, and the juice of a fresh 
lemon; let all simmer ten minutes, and just before dishing, add the- 
oysters. This is for two quarts of oysters. 

Plain Stew. 
One quart of oysters with liquor, pint and a half of milk, piece 
of butter size of egg, pepper and salt; boil all together until done.. 

Oyster Sauce. 

Set the oysters in their liquor over the fire for a few minutes; 
then remove them fi'om the liquor and stir into it some flour and 
butter well rubbed together, add salt and pepper, and when it 
has boiled well for five minutes put in the oysters and serve 
immediately. 

Oyster Pie. 

Make a rich puff paste ; roll out twice as thick as for a f ru it yie, 
for the top crust — about the ordinary thickness for the lower. X-iine 
a pudding dish with the thinner, and fill with crusts of dry 1] read 
or light crackers. Some use a folded towel to fill the interioi of the 
pie, but the above expedient is preferable. Butter the ed^^es of 
the dish, that you may be able to lift the upper crust without 
breaking. Cover the mock pie with the thick crust, ornamented 
keavily at the edge, that it may lie the more quietly, and bake. 
Cook the oysters as for a steAV, only beating into them at the last, 
two eggs, and thickening with a spoonful of fine cracker crumbs or 
rioe flour. They should stew but five minutes, and time them so- 



172 SHELL FISH. 

that the paste will be baked just in season to receive them. Lift 
the top crusty pour in the smoking hot oysters, and send up hot. 

Many consider it unnecessary to prepare the oysters and crust 
separately; but experience and observation go to prove that if the 
precaution be omitted, the oysters are apt to be wofully overdone. 
The maker can try both methods and take her choice. 

Pickled Oysters. 
One ounce each of allspice, mace, cinnamon and cloves, one quart 
vinegar; scald all together, then put in the oysters, waiting until it 
is cool; next day scald all together. 

Oyster Patties. 
Line small patty-pans with puff paste; into e-aoh pan put six 
oysters, bits of butter, pepper and salt; sprinkle over a little flour 
a,nd hard-boiled eggs, chopped (allowing about two eggs for six 
patties), cover with an upper crust, notch the edges and bake; serve 
either in the pans or remove them to a larger platter. 

Oyster Pot-Pie. 

Have ready nice light-raised biscuit dough, cut into small squares. 
Season the oysters well with butter, pepper and salt, and thicken 
them with a little flour; drop in the pieces of dough and boil till 
done. Tliis may be baked in the oven in a pudding-dish, allowing 
the dough to brown on the top. 

Roasted Oysters. 

Take oysters in the shell, wash the shells clean, and lay them on 
hot coals; when they are done they will begin to open. Remove 
the upper shell, and serve the oysters in the lower shell, with a little 
melted butter poured over each. 

Oysters, Fancy Roast. 

Toast a few slices of bread, and butter them; lay them in a 
shallow dish; put on the liquor of the oysters to beat; add salt and 
pepper, and just before it boils add the oysters; let them boil up 
once, and pour over the bread. 



SHELL FISH. 173 

Oyster a la Poulette. 

Scald a dozen oysters in their own liquor; salt and remove the 
oysters; add a tablespoonful of butter, the juice of half a lemon, a 
gill of cream, and a teaspoonful of flour. Beat up the yolk of one 
egg while the sauce is simmering; add the egg and simmer the 
whole until it thickens. Place the oysters on a hot dish, pour the 
sauce over them, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the top and 
serve. 

Raw Oysters. 

For a party, serve on a handsome block of ice in which a cavity 
has been made with a hot flat-iron. Set the ice on a pl3*.ter and 
garnish the edges with slices of lemon. Have pepper, ^alt and 
vinegar on hand; also serve with lemon juice. 

Oysters with Toast. 
Broil or fry as many oysters as you wish, and lay them on but- 
tered toast; salt and pepper; pour over them a cup of hot, rich 
cream; keep them perfectly hot until eaten. 

Oyster Flavor. 
A German cook has discovered a way to have oyster flavor all the 
year round. Take fresh, large, plump oysters, beard them and 
place them in a vessel over the fire for a few moments in ox'der to 
extract the juice, then put them to cool, and chop them very fine 
with powdered biscuit, mace, and finely minced lemon peel; pound 
them until they become a paste; make them up into thin cakes, 
place them on a sheet of paper in a slow oven and let them bake 
until they become quite hard; pound them directly into powder, 
and place the powder in a dry tin box, well covered; keep in a dry 
place, and it will be very much appreciated when the true oyster 
flavor is imparted to fish, sauces and dishes. This makes a delicious 
sauce for fresh cod. 

New Way of Preparikg Oysters. 
The ways of preparing oysters are not many. This methocU 



l-'J: SHELL FISH, 

liowever, is not widely known: Take two dozen oysters and throw 
them in a large deep dish; then take a small bunch of parsley 
chopped fine, a little lemon rind grated, half a nutmeg grated, and 
the crumbs of a stale French roll, also grated; let the latter be well 
incorporated, adding some Cayenne. Have in readiness the yolks 
of three fresh eggs beaten up into a foam; dip each oyster sepa- 
rately into the eggs and roll them into the bread crumbs until they 
are all covered with a good coat. Put a quarter of a pound of 
butter in the oven till it is melted while arranging the oysters in 
the pan, then turn them continually until they assume a perfect 
brown and crusty appearance. When fully cooked serve them with 
fiome celery, salt and thin slices of Graham bread and butter. 

Scallops. 
The heart is the only part used. If you buy them in the shell, 
boil and take out the hearts. Those sold in our markets are gen- 
■erally ready for frying or stewing. Dip them in beaten egg, then 
in cracker crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Or, you may stew them 
like oysters. The fried scallops are generally preferred. 

Terrapins, or Water Turtles. 
Land terrapins, it is hardly necessary to say, are uneatable, but 
the large turtle that frequents our mill-ponds and rivers can be 
converted into a relishable article of food. Plunge the turtle into 
a pot of boiling water, and let him lie there five minutes. You can 
then skin the under part easily, and pull off the horny parts of the 
feet. Lay him for ten minutes in cold salt and water; then put 
into more hot water salted, but not too much. Boil until tender. 
The time will depend upon the size and age. Take him out, drain 
and wipe dry; loosen the shell carefully, not to break the flesh; cut 
open also with care, lest you touch the gall-bag with the knife. 
Remove this with the entrails and sand-bag. Cut up all the rest of 
the animal into small bits; season with pepper, salt, a chopped 
onion, sweet herbs, and a teaspoonful of some spiced sauce, or a 
tablespoonf ul of catsup — walnut or mushroom. Save the Juice that 



SHELL FISH. 



175 



runs from the meat, and put all together into a saucepan with a 
closely-fitting top. Stew gently fifteen minutes, stirring occasion- 
ally, and add a great spoonful of butter, or a teaspoonful browned 
flour wet in cold water, a glass of brown sherry, and lastly, the 
beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with a little of the hot liquor, that it 
may not curdle. Boil up once and turn into a covered dish. Send 
around green pickles and delicate slices of toast with it. 





CHAPTER XL 

To Select game. 

ONG and sharp spurs show a pheasant to be old. 
A young cock pheasant will have short and 
blunt spurs. A hen pheasant may be known by 
its plumage, and its flavor is preferred by many, 
i,M though not by all, except when almost ready to- 
lay. 

Woodcock. — When these are fat they will feel 
^^£t^'^ '•«&> thick and firm, and a streak of fat will ajDpear 
on the side of the breast. Fresh birds will have supple feet, and 
the head and throat clear; whereas, when stale, the feet are stiff, 
and the head and throat nasty. . 

Figeons. — Tame pigeons, when fresh and in good order, are 
plump, and have their feet pliable and of a dusky white. Wild 
pigeons are not reckoned so good as tame, but they improve with 
keeping. They are not so fat but are to be chosen by the same 
rules as the others. 

Hares. — An old hare does very well for soup, but for ordinary 
purposes it is by no means desirable. It will be distinguished by 
its dry, tough ears, its blunted claws and its widely-parted lips. 
A young hare has soft and tender ears, sharpish claws, and the 
I)artiug of the lip close. 

Eabbit. — An old rabit will have long, rough claws, and fur 
often inclining to grey. When fresh the body will be rather stiff 
and the flesh dry and pale; but if stale, it will be limper and the 
flesh dark colored. 

17& 



GAME. 17 T 

Venison. — Choose the dark-colored meat, not the black, but tha 
rich reddish-brown, with fine grain, and well coated with fat. 
Keep it hung up in a cool, dark cellar, covered with a cloth, and 
use as soon as you can conveniently. 

To Pot Birds, 

Prepare them as for roasting; fill each with a dressing made as 
follows: Allow for each bird the size of a pigeon one-half of a 
hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoonful of bread crumbs, a 
teaspoonful of chopped pork; season the birds with pepper and 
Bait; stuff them and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. 
Place over the birds a few slices of pork, add a pint of water, 
dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. 
Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and butter. If 
the sauce is too thin, thicken with flour. One pint of water is suf- 
ficient for twelve birds. 

Reed Birds. 

" These delicious lumps of sweetness, as they are appropriately 
called, are always acceptable, but to thoroughly appreciate a reed 
bird dinner one must mingle with the gunners on the Delaware 
river as guest or member of one of the many clubs whose houses 
are situated within a few hundred yards of the hunting grounds. 
After the judge's decision as to who has high boat, the birds are 
plucked (and at some of the club houses drawn), arranged neatly in 
a dripj^ing-pan with bits of fresh country butter between them. 
They are allowed to cook on one side a few minutes, and with a 
long-handled spoon are turned over to brown on the other side. A 
little salt is added and they are then placed on a hot platter en 
pyramide and the gravy poured over them; they are then sent to 
the table with fried chipped potatoes." 

Reed Birds a la Lindenthorpe. 
On " ladies' day " the members of this club are more particular 
than on " member's day." They prepare the birds by drawing the 
trail and removing the head; they then take large sweet or Irish 
12 



178, , GAME. 

potatoes, cut them in two, scoop out the insides, and put an oyster 
or small piece of bacon inside of each bird and put the birds inside 
the potatoes, tie them up with twine and bake until the potatoes are 
done. The common twine is then removed and the potatoes are 
tied with a narrow piece of white or colored tape in a neat bow- 
knot and sent to the table on a napkin. 

Roast Praieie Chicken. 

The bird being a little strong, and its flesh, when cooked, a little 
dry, it should be either larded or wide strips of bacon or pork 
placed over its breast. A mild-seasoned stuffing will improve the 
flavor of old birds. Dust a little flower over them, baste occasion- 
ally and serve. 

Pheasants may be managed in the same way. 

Praieie Chicken. 

Clean nicely, using a little soda in the water in which they are 
washed; rinse them and drain, and fill with dressing, sewing them 
up nicely, and binding down the legs and wings with cord. Put 
them in a steamer and let them cook ten minutes; then put them in 
a pan with a little butter, set them in an oven and baste frequently 
until of a nice brown. They should brown in about thirty-five 
minutes. Serve them in a platter with sprigs of parsley alternated 
with currant jelly. 

Partridges and quails may be cooked in the same manner. 

To Roast Paeteidges, Pheasants oe Quails. 
Pluck, singe, draw and truss them, season with salt and pepper; 
roast for about half an hour in a brisk oven, basting often with 
butter. When done, place on a dish together with bread crumbs 
fried brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be served 
in a tureen apart. 

Quail on Toast. 
Pick and clean, cut in the middle of back, fry in butter to a nice 
brown, salt and pepper; now put in an earthern or porcelain-lined 



GAME. 179 

dish, one tablespoonful of nice butter and the same of flour: stir on. 
a slow fire until butter is dissolved; then pour in slowly two-thirds 
glass of water and the same quantity of wine; salt and pepper; put 
in your birds that are nicely fried, simmer slowly one-quarter of an 
hour; toast some thin slices of bread (one toast to each bird); put 
in the dish you wish to serve, laying the birds on top; pour the 
gravy over all; serve very hot. 

To Broil Quail or Woodcock. 
After dresssing, split down the back, sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per, and lay them on a gridiron, the inside down. Broil slowly at 
first. Serve with cream gravy. 

Pigeon Pie. 

Dress and wash clean, split down the back, and then proceed as 
for chicken pie. 

Roast Pigeons. 

When cleaned and ready for roasting, fill the bird with a stuffing 
€)f bread crumbs, a spoonful of butter, a little salt and nutmeg, and 
three oysters to each bird (some prefer chopped apple). They must 
l)e well basted with melted butter, and require thirty minutes of 
careful cooking. They are best in the autumn, and should be full 
grown. 

To Roast Pigeons. 

They should be dressed while fresh. If young, they will be 
ready for roasting in twelve hours. Dress carefully, and after 
making clean, wipe dry and put into each bird a small piece of 
butter dipped in Cayenne. Truss the wings over the back and roast 
in a quick oven, keeping them constantly basted with butter. 
Serve with brown gravy. Dish them with young water-cresses. 

Pigeon Compote. 
Truss six pigeons as for boiling. Grate the crumbs of a small 
loaf of bread, scrape one pound of fat bacon, chop thyme, parsley, 
an onion and lemon — peel fine — and season with salt and peppew 



180 GAME. 

mix it t«p -with two eggs; put this forcemeat into the craws of the 
pigeons, lard the breasts and fry brown; place them in a stewpan 
with some beef stock and stew them three-quarters of an hour, 
thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with force- 
meat balls around the dish and strain the gravy on to the pigeon. 

Wild Duck or Mallard, 
This is one of the best of wild fowl. Truss it as you would a tame 
luck, but it is not usual to stuff it. As soon as you have plucked 
and emptied it, boil down the giblets with a little bit of beef, to 
make savory brown gravy, flavored with lemon juice and wine. 
Wild duck is better served a little more under-done than tame 
duck. Some carvers slice the breast, and dose it with Cayenne, 
lemon juice and its own roast gravy — a, mode of dressing admissible 
only when everybody likes high seasoning. The bones of the wild 
duok are smaller than those of the tame. The teal, the jewel of 
water fowl, if fat, should be laid each on its slice of toast, roasted 
before the fire; turn it over now and then, and serve on the toast. 
The cfiot, on account of its black and very downy skin, is best 
flayed, snt into joints, and stewed with wine as a matelote. It 
then becomes sxcellent eating. 

Wild Goose, 

When to be had, is a treat for lovers of wild fowl; and yet, 
strange to say, there is a prejudice against it, as fishy. Some few 
species of geese may indeed graze on seaweed, and perhaps even 
swallow a few shell-fish when they happen to alight on the shore, 
hard pressed by hunger; but, as a rule, there is no cleaner feeding 
bird than the goose, feeding upon herbs or grain, but preferring the 
former as the staple of its diet. We know of no wild goose which 
is not excellent to eat, when obtained at the proper age and in good 
condition. 

Wild geese are roasted and served in the same way as wild ducks. 

A satisfactory combination is made by taking a little bone, some 
curtilage or tendon for the sake of its gelatine, sufficient fat — to be 



GAME. 181 

supplied, if the meat has none, from white bacon or fresh pork — 
and plenty of the flesh of whatever constitutes the pate. Pack 
these closely together, filling the interstices with minced fresh pork 
or veal, season well, but not in excess; flavor with bay-leaf, chopped 
shallot or onion, and lemon peel ; with bits of truffle (when possible), 
hard egg, and button mushrooms interspersed here and there 
through its substance, and half a tumbler of wine, with a little 
catsup poured in to pi-event too much drying up. Bake this in a 
gentle oven, and let it stand at least twenty-four hours before 
cutting it up. It will keep some tune, especially if untouched, and 
will be found improved and ripened at the end of three or four days. 

Roast Hare. 
Broil the hare slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the 
flesh, then cover it with slices of fat pork from the neck to the legs. 
Then roast it for an hour, and serve it with sauce piquante prepared 
with the crushed liver. 

A Nice "Way to Pkepare Cold Hare. 
Remove the flesh from the roast hare, and cut it in strips. After- 
ward break the bones and cook with them some butter and flour, 
onions, parsley, thyme, chives, salt, pepper, red wine, and stock 
broth; boil them down to one-fourth, and having strained the gravy, 
put the slices of hare into it and serve it up without again boiling it. 

Roast Rabbit. 
Rabbits are roasted in the same manner as directed for hare. 

Rabbit with Herbs. 
Cut a rabbit in pieces and place it in a stewpan with butter, 
parsley, chives, mushrooms, bay-leaves, and thyme, chopped fine. 
When done add a spoonful of flour to thicken it. 

Venison Chops. 
Broiled and served with currant jelly are not to be despised. 
Trim the ends as you would a French lamb chop. 



182 GAME. 

Venison Epicurean. 

Cut a steak from the leg or a chop from the loin of venison about 
an inch and a half thick. Put a walnut of butter, salt, and pepper, 
into a chafing-dish; light the spirit-lamp under it, and when the 
butter melts put in the chop or steak; let it cook on one side a few 
minutes, then turn it over, and add a wineglassf ul of sherry or jDort 
and a tablespoonful of currant jelly. Simmer gently about seven 
minutes if it is to be eaten rare, and allow twelve minutes' cooking 
if required well done. 

Venison Patties. 

Make a nicely-flavored mince of the remains of cold roast venison; 
moisten it with a little sherry or gravy, and warm it in a saucepan; 
fill the patty-shells with the meat and serve, as oyster patties. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Sees anh 3cc-crcam0. 




NJjY the best materials should be used for mak- 
ing and flavoring ice-cream, and avoid using 
milk thickened with arrow-root, corn starch or 
any other farinaceous substance. Pure cream, 
ripe natural fruits, or the extracts of the same, 
and sugar of the purest quality, combine to 
make a perfect ice-cream. In the first place 
secure a good ice-cream freezer. We would 
suggest one be secured working with a crank and revolving dash- 
ers. Next secure an ice-tub not less than eight inches greater in 
diameter than the freezer. See that it has a hole in the side near 
the bottom, with a plug, w hich can be drawTi at pleasure, to let off 
water accumulating from melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood 
■ — not metal — with a blade about twelve inches long and four or 
five inches wide and oval shaped at the end. This is used to 
scrape off cream which may adhere to the sides of the freezer 
in the proce^ss of freezing, also for working fruits and flavorings 
into the cream. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, strong bag. 
To freeze the cream after it has been flavored, first pound up ice 
and mix it with a quantity of coarse salt, in the proportion of one- 
third the quantity of salt to the amount of ice used. Put freezing 
can in center of tub, taking care that the lid is securely fastened on, 
and pile the mixed ice and salt around it on inside of tub to within 
three inches of top. First turn the crank slowly, and as the cream 

183 



184 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 

hardens increase the speed until the mixture is thoroughly con- 
gealed ^nd the revolving dashers are frozen in. Remove the lid, 
take out the dashers, cut away the cream which has adhered to the 
sides and proceed to work the mixture with the spatula until it is 
smooth and soft to the tongue. Re-insert the dashers, cover the 
can again, and work the crank until the entire contents are hard 
and well set. It is now ready to be served. 

Berry Cream. 
Any kind of berries may be used for this, strawberries being the 
nicest. Mash with a potato masher in an earthen bowl, one quart 
of berries with one pound of sugar; rub it through the colander; 
add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Very ripe peaches or 
mashed apples may be used instead of the berries. 

Burnt Sugar Ice-Cream. 
Take one-half pound of sugar, burn half of it in a sauce-pan or 
skillet; stir in sufficient water to bring to a liquid state; add the 
other sugar with one pint of milk containing four eggs well beaten. 
Flavor strongly with lemon, proceed as with other ices. 

Chocolate Ice-Cream. 
Use three or four ounces of the common unsweetened chocolate 
to a gallon of cream, or boiled custard. Boil the chocolate in some 
milk and sweeten to taste; strain it into the cream and flavor with 
vanilla. Beat the ice-cream to make it bright and rich colored. 
Melted chocolate cannot be mixed at once in cold cream as it sets 
And makes trouble. It must be considerably diluted first. 

Coffee Ice-Cream. 

To three quarts of pure, sweet cream add one pint of a decoction 
of very strong clear coffee. Sugar as usual — eight ounces to the 

quart. 

Lemon Ice-Cream. 

This is made with the same proportion of cream and sugar and 
©ne lemon; srrate the lemon rind into the sugar} this extracts the 



ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. lf^"> 

oil; then add the juice and the raw cream; strain and freeze imme- 
diately. Lemon cream sours more quickly than any other. ' 

Peach Ice-Cream. 
Take one quart of milk, two eggs, sugar to taste, one quart of 
peaches pared and stoned — mash and add to the custard. Proceed 
as usual. 

Pine-Apple Ice-Cream. 

Take two cans of pine-apples, two pounds of sugar, two quarts 
of cream (the cream must be nearly frozen, else the pine-apple pulp 
or syrup, upon being added, will immediately curdle it). Beat all 
thoroughly and finish freezing. 

Orange Ice-Cream. 
Make a custard same as for vanilla; add orange pulp, or simply 
flavor with orange, if preferred. 

Strawberry and Raspberry Ice-Cream. 

Bruise a pint of strawberries or raspberries with two large 
spoonfuls of fine sugar; add a quart of cream and strain through a 
sieve and freeze it. If you have no cream, boil a teaspoonful of 
arrowroot in a quart of milk, and if you like, beat up one egg and 
stir into it. 

Vanilla Ice-Cream. 

One quart of cream, half a pound of sugar, granulated, half a 
vanilla bean. Boil half the cream with the sugar and bean, then 
add the rest of the cream; cool and strain it. If extract of vanilla, 
or any other extract is used, do not boil it, but put it in the cream 
with the sugar and freeze. Make it strong with the flavoring, as it 
loses strength with freezing. 

CocoANiTT Ice-Cream. 
Same as vanilla, omitting vanilla flavoring, and adding choppoi 
cocoanut. 



186 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 

Fkozen Tapioca Custakd. 
Soak six or seven ounces of tapioca in one quart of milk; wbea 
soft, boil two quarts of milk sweetened with one and one-fourth 
pounds of sugar; then add the tapioca and let it cook fifteen min- 
utes; then stir in two ounces of butter and eight beaten eggs and 
take the custard immediately off the fire; cool and flavor with 
vanilla or lemon and freeze like ice-cream; when nearly finished, 
add one cup of whipped cream and beat well. 

Frozen Rice Custard. 
Wash six ounces of rice in several waters and cook it in milk; 
then proceed as in tapioca custard, using cinnamon or any other 
flavoring desired. 

Frozen Sago Custard. 
Soak the sago in cold milk first, it will then cook in a few 
minutes; then proceed as in tapioca custard. 

Water-Ices. 
These are made with the juices of ripe fruits, sweetened and 
frozen like ice-cream; but it must be remembered that if the juices 
are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is therefore 
generally necessary to test them with an instrument called a 
saccharometer. This applies equally to ice-creams and all drinks 
to be frozen; and for water-ices clarified sugar should be used, 
which may be prepared in the following manner: To a quart of 
water add three pounds of sugar and half of the white of an egg 
well beaten up. This should be boiled ten minutes and skimmed. 

Cherry Water-Ice with Nut Cream. 
Two freezers will be required. For the cherry ice take tw» 
quarts of sweet cherries, one quart of water, one and one-half 
pounds of sugar. Pound the raw fruit in a mortar so as to break 
the stones and strain the juice through a fine strainer into the 
freezer. Boil the cherry pulp with some of the sugar and water t» 



ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 187 

extract the flavor from the kernels, and mash that also through the 
strainer; add to the remainder of water and sugar and freeze. No 
eggs are needed and only beat the ice enough to mak© it even and 
smooth. 

For the nut cream, use one pound of either pecan or hickory-nut 
meats, three-fourths of a pound of sugar, one quart of rich milk 
or cream, one tablespoonf ul of burnt sugar for coloring. Pick over 
the kernels carefully, that there be no fragments of shells to make 
the cream gritty, then pound them in a mortar with part of the 
sugar and a few spoonfuls of milk. Only a few can be pounded 
effectually at a time. Mix the milk with the pulp thus obtained, 
the rest of the sugar and caramel coloring, enough to make it like 
coffee and cream, and run it through a strainer into a freezer. 
Freeze it as usual and beat smooth with a spatula, then pack down 
with more ice to freeze firm. Line the moulds with cherry ice and 
fill the middle with the cream, or dish the ice as a border in shallow 
glasses with the cream piled in the center. 

Strawberry Water-Icb. 
To a pound of ripe strawberries and half a pound of currants add 
a pint of clarified sugar. If desired, a little coloring may be used. 
The whole must then be strained through a hair sieve and frozen. 

Raspberry Water-Ice. 

This may be made the same as strawberry water-ice by merely 
substituting raspberries for strawberries. 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream and Orange-Ice. 

First make the almond candy as follows: Take one pound of 
^ugar, three-fourths pound of sweet almonds, two ounces of bitter 
almonds. Blanch the almonds, split them and put them in a slow 
oven to dry and acquire a light yellow color; put the sugar in a 
kettle on the fire, without any water, and stir it until it is all melted 
and of the color of golden syrup; then put in the hot almonds, stir 
gently to mix and pour the candy on a platter. When cold, pound 
the candy quite fine, put it into three pints of rich milk, set it on . 



188 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 

the fire, and wlien it boils add the beaten yolks of ten eggs. Strain 
the burnt almond custard thus made into a freezer, and freeze as 
Usual and beat well. 

For the orange ice: Take three pints of water, one pound of 
«ugar, five or six oranges, according to size, juice of one lemon, if 
the oranges are sweet, whites of four eggs. Make a thick syrup of 
the sugar and a very little watei*. Peel half the oranges, divide 
them by their natural divisions and drop the pieces of oranges into 
the boiling syrup. Grate the yellow peel'of the other three oranges 
into a bowl and squeeze in the juice, then pour the syrup from the 

: scalded orange slices also into the bowl through a strainer and keep 
the slices on ice to be mixed in at the last. Add the water and 
lemon juice to the orange syrup in the bowl, strain and freeze. 
Beat in the whipped whites as usual, and when finished stir in the 
suirared fruit. Use the burnt almond cream and fill with the 

•orange ice. 

Biscuit Glaces. 
To half a pound of powdered sugar add the yolks of four eggs; 
flavor with vanilla; beat well, then take two quarts of whipped 
cream and mix with the sugar and yolks; color some of it red and 
spread on the bottom of paper capsules and fill up with fresh cream. 
Then put them in a tin box with cover and pack well up on all sides 
with pounded ice and salt and let stand for two hours; it is then 
ready for use. 

Ratepfe Biscuit Cream. 
Make the same as vanilla; when nearly frozen add one-half pound 
of ratefEe biscuit and finish freezinar. 

TuTTi Frutti. 

When a rich vanilla cream is partly frozen, candied cherries, 
chopped raisins, chopped citron or any other candied fruit chopped 
rather fine are added; add about half the quantity of fruit that 
there is of ice-cream; mold and imbed in ice and salt; or make also 
<two quarts of orange ice in another freezer, add the white of eggs 



ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 1S9 . 

in the usual manner and beat it up white and smooth, then spread' 
it evenly over the insides of two or three melon molds to coat them. 
Imbed the molds in the freezing mixture, and when the coating of 
orange ice is frozen firm fill up with the tutti frutti. Spread the 
orange ice also on top, put on the lids, secure with a number of 
rubber bands, close all spaces securely with butter and place the 
molds in the freezing mixture to remain two or three hours. When 
to be served wash the outsides with a cloth dipped in tepid water, 
carefully turn out the tutti frutti on to a folded napkin on a dish, 
lay a decoration of gelatine paste upon the white surface and serve. 

Gelatine Paste foe Ornamenting Ices. 
Make clear jelly in the usual manner, then reduce it by slow 
boiling to little more than half, color it as desired, filter again^ 
flavor, and cool it on large platters. Stamp out leaves, fern leaves, 
flower shapes, etc., and have them ready to place on the molded 
ices as soon as they are turned out. 

Pine-Apple Sherbet. 

Take two cans of pine-apples or the same amount of ripe pine- 
apples, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, .whites of six 
^ggs. Strain the juice from the cans into the freezer. Make a 
boiling syrup of the sugar and one quart of water. Chop the pine- 
apples small, scald it in the boiling syrup, then rub it through a 
colander with the syrup and the remaining quart of water into the 
freezer. Freeze and add the whites of four eggs, and beat it per- 
fectly white. 

To Color Ice Cream or Water Ices. 

For Green, use juice of spinach or beet leaves. Vegetable green, 
already prepared, can be bought at the druggists. 

For Yellow, saffron soaked in warm water. 

For Red, take cochineal, which can be had at any druggists, or 
made as follows: One-quarter ounce cochineal, pound finely and add 
one-half pint boiling water, one-half ounce cream of tartar, one-quar-- 



290 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 

ter ounce alum, and one-quarter ounce salt of tartar. Let it etand 
until the color is extracted, then strain and bottle. 

For Purple, mix a small quantity of cochineal and ultramarine 
blue. 

For Brown, use powdered chocolate. 

Other colors can be used, but these are all good, showy and quite 
iiarmless. 




CHAPTER XIII. 

Icings. 



EEPARE icings with fresh eggs only, and sift 



well your pulverized sugar. 

Almond Icing. 

Whites of three eggs, whisked to a standing 

froth, three-quarters pound of powdered 

sugar, one-half pound of sweet almonds, 

,^^,^ c»* '^.''* blanched and pounded to a paste. When 

"" beaten fine and smooth, work gradually into 

the icing; flavor with lemon juice and rose water. This frosting 

is delicious. Dry in the open air when this is practicable. 

Boiled Icing. 

One and one-half cups of sugar; put to this two tablespoonfuls 
of water; let it boil on the back of the stove until it is waxy, or 
stringy; then add whites of two eggs. 

Boiled Icing, No. 2. 

Whites of four eggs, beaten stiff ; one pint of sugar, melted in 
water and then boiled; add to it the eggs, and beat until cold. 

Chocolate Icing. 

Take the whites of two eggs, one and one-half cups powdered 
sugar, and six large tablespoonfuls of chocolate. 

Chocolate Icing, 'No. 2. 

One-half cake of chocolate grated fine, two-thirds of a cup of 
sugar, one-half cup of milk or cream; boiled and stirred to a paste. 

191 



192 ICINGS. 

Chocolate Icing, No. 3. 
One-half cake chocolate; warm in the oven ten minutes; add one 
Heaping cup of sugar, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one-half teaspoon- 
fnl cloves, the same of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla; pour a 
little water on the sugar, put it on the chocolate, heat on the stove, 
tnelt it to a smooth paste, stir in the spices. 

Clear Icing, for Cake. 
Put one cup sugar into a bowl with a tablespoonful lemon juice 
and whites of two eggs. Just mix together smooth and pour over 
the cake; if the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place it in the 
teiouth of a moderately warm oven. 

Icing for Cakes. 
Whites of four eggs, one pound of pulverized sugar, flavor with 
lemon; break the whites into a broad, cool, clean dish; throw a 
small handful of sugar upon them and begin to whip it in with 
long, even strokes of the beater. A few minutes later throw in 
more sugar and keep adding it at intervals until it is all used up. 
Beat until the icing is of a smooth, fine and firm texture; if not 
stiff enough, put in more sugar; use at least a quarter of a pound 
of sugar for each egg. To spread it, use a broad-bladed knife 
dipped in cold water. 

TuTTi Frutti Frosting. 
One-half cup of water, three cups of sugar, whites of two eggs; 
boil sugar and water until very thick and waxy; beat the whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, and pour the syrup over them, beating all till 
cool; then add one-half pound of almonds, chopped fine; one small 
half cup of lax'ge white raisins, and a little citron, sliced thin. 
Very nice for sponge cake. 

Lemon Icing. 
Wliites of two eggs, two cups of sugar, juice and a part of the 
rind of two lemons. 



ICINGS. ■ 193 

Ornamental Icing. 
Fill a paper cone with the icing, and work upon the cake, by 
slightly pressing the cone, any design you may choose. 

Yellow Icing. 
Yolk of one egg to nine heaping teaspoonfuls of pulveriwed sugar 
and flavor with vanilla, or lemon. 

Rose Coloring. 
Mix together one-fourth ounce each of powdered alum and cream 
of tartar, one ounce cochineal, four ounces loaf sugar, a snltspoon- 
ful of soda. Boil ten minutes in a pint of clear, soft water; when 
cool, bottle and cork for use. This is used for jellies, cakes, ice- 
cream, etc. 



CHAPTER XIV, 



3am0 ani 3eUte0. 




XOELLEN^T fruit only, should be used in 
making jam. As a general rule, tbis should 
be fully ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously 
clean and dry. The best sugar is the cheap- 
est; inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and 
the jam will not keep unless a sufficient pro- 
portion of sugar is boiled with the fruit. 
At the same time too large a proportion of 
sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, and in all 
probability make the jam candy. The sugar should be dried and 
broken up into small pieces before it is mixed with the fruit. 
If it is left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, 
and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick 
instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must 
depend in every instance on the nature of the fruit. Fruit is 
generally boiled in a brass or copper kettle, uncovered, and this 
should be kept perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be 
taken not to place the kettle flat upon the fire, as this will be 
likely to make the jam burn to the bottom. Glass jars or cans 
are much the best for jams, as through them the condition of the 
fruit can be observed. Whatever jars are used, however, the 
jam should be examined every three weeks for the first 
two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fer- 
mentation it should be boiled over again. If you do not 
use the patent glass jar, the best way to cover jam is 
to lay a piece of paper the size of the jar upon the jam, to 

194 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 195 

stretch over the top a piece of writing paper or tissue paper which 
has been dipped in white of egg, and to press the sides closely 
down. When dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. 
The strict economist may use gum Arabic dissolved in water instead 
of white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. 
Jam should be stored in a cool, dry place, but not in one into 
which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency to make the 
fruit mold, and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the 
jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but the generally- 
approved plan is to let the fruit grow cool before covering it. In 
making jam continual watchfulness is required, as the result of five 
minutes' inattention may be loss and disappointment. 

Apricot Jam. 

Pare three pounds of fresh, sound apricots, halve them, and take 
out the stones. They should be ripe enough to halve with the 
fingers. Place them in a deep dish, and strew over them one pound 
of finely sifted sugar. Let them remain for eight hours. Then 
place them with the syrup that will have oozed from them in ? 
preserving-pan; add a few of the kernels blanched and sliced, and 
another pound and a half of sugar. Let them boil very gently, 
and, when done, put them into glasses or jars and cover closely with 
gummed paper. 

Marmalades and Jams. 
In making marmalades, jams, etc.— If put up in small quantities 
and for immediate use, three-quarters of a pound of sugar to one 
pound of fruit is sufficient; but if desirable to keep them longer, a 
pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is a better proportion. As in 
preserves, the best sugar should be used. 

Apple Jam. 
Peel and core the apples, cut in thin slices and put them in a 
preserving kettle with three-quarters of a pound of white sugar to 
every pound of fruit; add (tied up in a piece of muslin) a few 



196 • JAMS AND JELLIES, 

cloves, a small piece of ginger and a thin rind of lemon; stir with a 
wooden spoon on a quick fire for half an hour. 

Blackberry, Raspberry, Currant or Strawberry Jam, 
May be made by putting into a preserving kettle and boiling 
fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often and skimming off any 
scum that may rise; then add sugar in the proportion of three- 
fourths pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Boil thirty minutes 
longer stirring continually; when done pour into small jars or jelly 
glasses. A good way is to mix raspberries and currants in the pro- 
portion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter. 

Grape, Gooseberry, or Plum Jam. 

Stew the berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve or 
colander; then return to the kettle and add three-fourths pound of 
sugar to one pound of the pulped fruit. Boil three-fourths of an 
hour, stirring constantly. Pour in jars or bowls and cover as 
directed for other jams. 

Apple Marmalade. 

Peel and slice the apples; weigh and put into a kettle and stew 
until tender; wash fine and add sugar in proportion of pound to 
pound; let them cook slowly, stirring very frequently; be careful 
not to allow it to scorch; when the mass has a jellied appearance it 
is done. About half an hour will generally be found sufiicient for 
making the marmalades after adding the sugar. 

Orange Marmalade. 
Eighteen sweet, ripe oranges, six pounds best white sugar. Grate 
the peel from four oranges, and reserve it for the maj-malade. The 
rinds of the rest will not be needed. Pare the fruit carefully, 
removing the inner white skin as well as the yellow; slice the 
orange; remove the seeds; put the fruit and grated peel in a por- 
celain or enamel saucepan and boil steadily until the pulp is reduced 
to a smooth mass; take from the fire and rub quickly through a 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 197 

clean, bright colander, as the color is easily injured. Stir in the 
sugar, return to the fire, and boil fast, stirring constantly half an 
hour, or until thick. Put while warm into small jars, but do not 
cover until cold. This is a handsome and delicious sweetmeat. 

Pine-Apple Marmalade. 

Pare, slice, core, and weigh the pine-apple; then cut into smalj 
bits; make a syrup of a cup of water to two pounds of sugar; melt 
and heat to a boil; heat the chopped pine-apple in a vessel set 
within one of boiling water, covering it closely to keep in the 
flavor; when it is smoking hot all through, and begins to look 
clear, add to the syrup; boil together half an hour, stirring all the 
while, or until it is a clear, bright paste. 

Peach Marmalade. 

Pare, stone, and weigh the fruit; heat slowly to draw out the 
juice, stirring up often from the bottom with a wooden spoon; after 
it is hot, boil quickly, still stii'ring, three-quarters of an hour; add, 
then, the sugar, allowing three-quarters of a pound to each pound 
of the fruit; boil up well for five minutes, taking off every particle 
of scum; add the juice of a lemon for every three pounds of fruit, 
and the water in which one-fourth of the kernels have been boiled 
and steeped; stew all together ten minutes, stirring to a smooth 
paste, and take from the fire; put up hot in air-tight cans, or, when 
cold, in small stone or glass jars, with brandied tissue-paper fitted 
neatly to the surface of the marmalade. A large ripe pine-apple, 
pared and cut up fine, and stirred with the peaches, is a fine addi- 
tion to the flavor. 

Quince Marmalade. 

Such quinces as are too knotty and defective to make good pre- 
serves may be pared and cored, cut into small pieces and put into 
the kettle with three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of 
fruit; put a small cup of cold water in first to prevent burning. 
When the quince begins to soften, take a potato masher and mash it 



198 JELLIES. 

to a pulp, without taking it from the fire; let it boil gently from 
fifteen to twenty minutes, not longer than twenty. Take from the 
fire and put into jars. 

Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and grapes all make nice 
marmalades. 

Plum Marmalade. 

Choose plums that are fully ripe; scald them till the skins peel 
off, and take out the stones. Allow a pound and a half of sugar to 
a pound of fruit; let them lie in the sugar a few hours, then boil t» 
a smooth mass. 

Pumpkin Makmalade. 

Take ripe, yellow pumpkins, pare and cut them into large pieces,, 
scraping out the seeds with an iron spoon; weigh the pieces, and to 
every pound allow one pound of white sugar, and a small orange or 
lemon; grate pieces of pumpkin on a coarse grater, and put, 
together with the sugar, into a preserving pan, the yellow rind of 
the orange, grated, and the juice, strained. Let all boil slowly, 
stirring it frequently and skimming it well till it is a smooth, thick 
marmalade; put it warm into small glass jars or tumblers and lay a 
double round of tissue paper with a bladder or waxed paper. 



JELLIES. 

Apple Jelly. 

Slice the apples, skins, cores and all; put them in a stone jaT with 
a small quantity of water to keep them from sticking; then place 
the jar in water and let them remain boiling until perfectly soft; 
then strain and to one pint of the liquor add three-quarters of a 
pound of loaf sugar; boil and clear with the whites of two or three 
eggs beaten to a froth. When it jellies pour into the glasi»^ t» 
cool and seal them. 



JELLIES. 199 

Blackberby Jelly. 

Take blackberries before they are ripe, when they are turned red, 
put them into a porcelain kettle and cook until reduced to a pulp; 
then strain them and to a pint of juice add one pound of sugar. 
Boil to a jelly. 

Cranberry Jelly. 

Stew the cranberries until they are tender, then pour into a jelly- 
bag and let drip over night; take one pound of sugar to each pint 
of juice; let the juice boil five minutes, then pour in the sugar and 
gtir until thoroughly dissolved. 

Crab-Apple Jelly. 
Boil the fruit whole in water enough to cover it until perfectly 
soft, then pour into a coarse linen bag and let it drip until it ceases, 
then press it a little. Allow one pound of sugar to each pint of 
juice. If you choose add the juice of a lemon to each quart of 
syrup. Boil the juice first, then skim it; heat the sugar in a dish 
in the oven and add it as the juice boils up. Boil gently twenty 
minutes and pour in tumblers or molds. 

Currant Jelly. 
From the Some Messenger we copy the following: This recipe 
is the only one which we will warrant to make good jelly against 
odds. We have made jelly by it on the fifth of July and on the 
fifteenth, and each time it was a perfect success. While we recom- 
mend all persons to make their jelly from fresh fruit, early in the 
season, we can still assure those who are behindhand that they need 
not despair of jelly that will set firm and hard later in the season. 
Run the currants through your hand picking out the leaves and 
any stray thing that may adhere to them but leaving the currants 
on their stems. Weigh the fruit, being accurate in remembering the 
number of pounds. Put a pint of water into your preserving kettle 
and add a bowl or two of currants, mashing and pressing them till 
you have sufficient juice to cover the bottom of the kettle; thou 



200 JELLIES. 

add tlie remainder of the currants; let them come to a boil and boil 
at least twenty minutes, of course stirring and pressing them from 
time to time that they may not burn. Have a three-cornered 
bag of thin but strong unbleached cotton that has been well 
ecalded and wrung till almost diy; hang it up and pour the boiled 
currants into it. Let it drip into a stone crock all night, but by no 
means squeeze it, the currants will drain perfectly dry. In the 
morning pour the strained juice into the preserving kettle without 
measuring; let it come to a boil and boil thorougly for three or 
four minutes, then pour in half as many pounds of sugar as you 
had pounds of currants. For instance, a peck of currants will 
probably weigh twelve pounds; therefore use six pounds of sugar. 
The moment the sugar is entirely dissolved tlie jelly is done. To 
make sure of the sugar being entirely dissolved see that it begins 
to jelly on the ladle. It will look thick and drop thick and a little 
stringy, but if let heat beyond this point it will loose its thickness 
and not jelly nearly so well and always disappoint you if you lose 
faith in your instructions and insist upon ' letting it come to a boil.' 
All the boiling is done before you put in the sugar. 

Currant Jelly. 

One poand of granulated sugar to each pint of juice. Squeeze 
the currants and boil twenty minutes, then add the sugar, which 
should be heating while the juice boils; stir well together until the 
sugar is well dissolved. 

Grape Jelly. 

Put the grapes into a preserving kettle and heat, bruising them 
meantime with a potato masher, until the juice runs freely, then 
strain through a sieve or thin cloth and measure one pint of juice 
for one pound of sugar. Boil the juice fifteen or twenty minutes 
before putting in the sugar; after adding the sugar let it boil from 
three to five minutes. All fruit will form more readily into » jelly 
if not quite ripe. , 



JELLIES. 201 

Pjeach Jelly. 
Crack one-third of the kernels and put them into the jar with the 
peaches, which have been wiped, stoned and sliced. Heat in a pot 
of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is well broken; 
strain, and to every pint of peach juice add the juice of a lemon; 
measure again and to every pint of juice allow one pound of sugar. 
Heat the sugar very hot and add when the juice has boiled twenty 
minutes. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the tire. 

Pie-Plant Jelly. 

Stew the stalks until tender in a preserving kettle; strain through 
a jelly-bag; flavor with extract of lemon. To each pint of juice 
add a pound of sugar; boil until it jellies on the skimmer; remove 
It from the fire and put into jars. 

Quince Jelly. 

Peel, cut up and core some fine, ripe quinces; put them in suffi- 
cient cold water to cover them and stew gently till soft, but not 
red; strain the juice without pressure, weigh, and to every pound 
of juice allow one pound of crushed sugar; boil the juice twenty 
minutes, add the sugar and boil again until it jellies — about a quar- 
ter of an hour; stir and skim well all the time; strain through thin 
oloth into your jelly glasses, and when cold, cover it. The 
remainder of the fruit can be made into marmalade with three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar and a quarter of a pound of juicy 
apples to every pound of quinces, or it can be made into comjjotea 
or tarts. 

Quince Jelly, No. 2. 

Take the cores and parings of the quinces, put them in enough 
cold water to cover them, and boil until they are soft; squeeze, and 
add the juice to the water, and any syrup which may be left from 
the quince preserve, and strain it; to each pint of juice allow a 
pound of sugar; spread thr* sp.'^ar in pans, put it in the oven to 
heat, it must be watched and stirred to prevent burning. Let the 



202 GELATINE JELLIES. 

juice boil for five minutes, then pour in the hot sugar, stirring until 
it is entirely dissolved, and skimming any scum that may rise. 
There will be very little. Let it come to a boil, then take from the 
fire and put in jars or glasses; the jelly will be clear, of a good 
color and keep well. All kinds of jellies can be made in this way, 
and it saves much labor in the time of boiling the juices and the 
trouble of skimming. 



GELATINE JELLIES^ 

Coffee Jelly. 

One box gelatine soaked for an hour in just water enough to 
cover; take one quart of strong coffee, made as for table use; 
sweeten it to taste; have the coffee hot and add the dissolved gela- 
tine; stir well and strain into a mold that has just been rinsed ia 
cold water. Set on ice or in a cool place, and when cold, serve 
with whipped cream. 

Lemon Snow Jelly. 

Dissolve one box of gelatine in nearly a quart of boiling water» 
then add the juice of five lemons and enough of sugar to sweeten 
to taste; strain and set aside until nearly cool. Beat the whites of 
five eggs and whip into the jelly; turn into a dish and let it set 
until cool. After it becomes solid, decorate with pieces of red 
jelly. 

Lemon Jelly. 

One ounce of gelatine, red is the best, one pound of sugar, one 
quart of boiling water, and four lemons; cut the lemons into slices 
and bruise them, then add the sugar and gelatine, and pour upon 
the whole boiling water; set the vessel containing them upon the 
itove and stir until the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved; then pour 
into molds and set to cool. 



GELATINE JELLIES. 203^ 

OsANGE Jelly. 

Take two ounces of gelatine and pour on hot water enough to 
e«ver it, and let soak until it is dissolved; boil together one quart 
€>f water and one-half pound of sugar, and add the dissolved gela- 
tine; add the juice of five oranges and one lemon and the whites of 
two eggs, well beaten. Boil a few minutes and strain through a 
jelly-bag; turn into molds and set to cool. 

Any jellies may be colored by using fruit coloring, which may be 
obtained at the bakeries. 

Wine Jelly. 

One box of gelatine dissolved in just water enough to cover it, 
one pint of wine, one pint of boiling water, one pint of granulated 
sugar, and juice of three lemons. 

MOULDINESS. 

Fruit jellies may be preserved from mouldiness by covering the 
surface one-fourth of an inch deep with finely pulverized loaf sugar, 
l^us protected, they will keep in good condition for years. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Ulavkctiug. 




KTEE31IXE before goiiig to marlcet what shall 
be purchased, aiui in what quantity. This is 
t^peoially uetnlful when the butcher is to be 
visittHl. Another rule is to deal at jslioj^s 
where good articles ouly are sold, and, if i>os- 
sible, to take your mouey with jou, be<»ause 
a ready-mouey customer will, as a rule, be 
the best serveii. It is uot always st\ie to let 
the butcher, poulterer, fishmonger, or other provisiou dealer, 
choose for you, because he may be over anxious to sell what is 
uot in the best condition, or what is from some other cause hardly 
s;\lable. Kxperienced pei-sons will uot fail to olvserve carefully 
the quality of what they buy, and they will reflect upou the 
quantity of bone, gristle or other waste iu it. They will also con- 
sider the reipiiremeuts of the family and the uses to which they 
can put what is not consumed as soon ;is cooteil. At the 
l>utcher s see the meat cut and weigheil and placed ready to be 
sent home; you will then know what you have bought. Always 
buy good meat rather than inferior, and if possible from the 
best parts of the animal. To aid the inexperienced we will now 
enter somewhat into detail. 

Beef. — Young and well-fed ox beef is the best. It may be known 
by the lean being of a fine, smooth or open gniin, and the fot of a 
yellowish white, ^^'lleu the fat is either a mottled yellow or white, 
the meat is doubtful. The suet, however, must be very white. 
Cow beef is inferior, its fat is whiter, the lean closer in the gmin 
^and uot of so bright a red. Bull beef has white and shining fat- 

i»4 



MARKETING. 



205. 



cloBe-graincd lean of a dark red, and a Htrongcr smell than other 
beef. 

The principal partw arc an follows: 

Xl,l •hkxV 





BECTTON OK i,i, 

1. Check. 

2. Neck or Sticking Piece. 
8. Clod. 

4. Shin. 

6. Shoulder or Leg of Mutton Piece. 

6. Chuck KibH. 

7. Middle Ribs. 

8. Fore Ribs. 

9. Brisket. 



10. Burlofn. 

11. Thin Flank. 

12. Rump. 

1'i. Aitch-bone. 

14. Round or Buttock.. 

10. MouHc Bullock. 

16. Veiny Pier;e. 

17. Thick Flank. 

18. Leg. 



BcHides the above there are the kidneys, heart, tripe, flweetr 
breads, tongue, and palate. 

Good beef is more elastic to the touch than that which is old 
or in bad condition, so that when pressed with the finger the 
impression will not be permanent. In poor meat, the lean is usually- 
dark, the fat skinny, and the sinewy portions distinctly shown, 
especially a horny texture in the ribs. Beef should be perfectly 
sound, swc(!t and fresh, as taint rapidly spreads, and if frosted it 
will not cook properly. It is, perhaps, scarcely needful to say, that 
several of the joints which are enumerated above, are readily and 
commonly divided by the butcher and sold in portions for the 
convenience of small families and slender purses. If, at any time^ 
more is bought than is wanted for present use, care should be taken 
to let it bo from such jjarts as may be cut into two, the- one for 



206 



MARKETING. 



roasting and the other for salting and boiling; or let it be sttcK as 
may be easily warmed a-fresh, or otherwise presented hot again at 




A. Rump. 

B. Mouse Buttock. 

C. Leg or Hock. 

D. Buttock or Round. 

E. Aitch-bone or Top. 
P. Surloin. 

G. Fore Ribs. 
H. Middle Ribs. 



I. Chuck Rib. 

J. Neck, Clod, or Sticking Pieca 
K. Shin. 

L. Shoulder or Lsg of Mutton Piece. 
M. Brisket. 
N. Thin Flank. 
O. Thick Flank. 
P. Veiny Piece. 



table, which will be the case with such parts as are stewed, and 
such cheap portions as the heart, and cold roasted ox-heart cut into 
«lices and warmed -in gravy is as good as when first cooked. 





SECTIONS OF SHEEP, OR LAMB. . 

1. Leg. 5. Best end of loin. 

2. Shoulder. 6. Best end of neck, 

3. Breast. 7. Chump end of loia. 

4. Scrag end of neck. 8. Head. 



MARKETING. 207 

Mutton. — Good mutton, of whatever breed, is kno\m at a glance, 
the ham, dark, bright, crimson red; the fat, white and firm, antl 
never too deficient in quantity according to the joint. Bad mutton 
is of an unsightly brownish color, and has a bad smell with a little 
fat, and that flabby and yellowish, often, but not always, the car- 
cass looks as if the beast had been devoured by consumptive lean- 
ness. If you can get a sight of the liver, its state will sometimes 
tell you tales of the creature's healthf ulness or the reverse. 

Pork. — Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen 
with the greatest care. The pig, from his gluttonous habits, is 
particularly liable to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh eaten 
when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of it will prob- 
ably have to pay dearly for their indulgence. It is generally 
understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. Where it is possible, 
therefore, it is always safest to obtain pork direct from some farm 
where it has been fed and killed. When this cannot be done, it 
should either be purchased from a thoroughly respectable and 
reliable person or dispensed with altogether. Pork is best in cold 
weather. It is in season from November to March. It should be 
avoided during the summer months. The fat should be white and 
firm, the lean finely grained, and the skin thin and cool. If any 
kernels are to be seen in the fat, the pig was diseased at the time 
it was killed. Pork should not be allowed to hang more than a day 
or two before it is cooked, as it will not keep unless it be salted. 
If cooked quite fresh, however, it will be hard. The head, heart, 
liver, etc., should be cooked as soon as possible. Care should be 
taken that the pork be thoroughly cooked. 

Veai is best when the animal is from two to three months old. 
Veal, like all young meat, has a tendency to turn very quickly It 
is both unpalatable and most unwholesome when it is at all taint<3i., 
and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats sometimes can, by the 
use of charcoal. Therefore it ought not to be kept more than two 
days in summer and four in winter. If eaten quite fresh it is apt 
^ be a little tough. 



208 



MARKETING. 



If there is any danger of the veal becoming tainted, wash it, an5 
put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water 
till cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest place that can be 
found. No meat is more generally useful for making soups aa4 
gravies than veal. 








SECTIONS OP 


CALF. 




1. 


Loin, chump end. 




7. 


Fore knuckle. 


8. 


Loin, best end. 




8. 


Breast, brisket end. 


B. 


Neck, best end. 




9. 


Breast, best end. 


4. 


Neck, scrag emd. 




10. 


Blade-boae. 


5. 


Fillet. 




11. 


Head. 


6. 


Hind knuckle. 









Turkeys. — A young cock-turkey is the best, and may be known 
by its smooth, black legs and short spurs. The spurs must be 
closely looked into, because it is an old trick of the dealers to cut 
and scrape them in order to get rid of old birds as young ones. If 
in good condition the eyes will be bright and full and the feet soft 
and pliable; whereas where stale the eyes will be dim and sunken 
and the feet stiff and dry. The beak of a young turkey is some- 
what soft, but hard and rigid in an old one. The legs of an old 
hen-turkey are red and rough. In other respects a hen-turkey may 
be judged of as a cock-turkey, spurs excepted. 

Fowls. — A young cock will have short spurs, which will require 
the same inspection as turkeys. A fine bird will have a smooth 
comb, a full fat breast, and a large rump. The skin should be 
delicate and transparent. Pullets are best when about to lay, at 
which time they have partially formed eggs inside. Fowls with 
black legs are best roasted. Game birds shoul(J "ilso, be roasted. 



MAllKETING. 20f> 

Young Dorking, Spanish and Cochin should be provided for boil- 
ing. For broth, an old hen will do, if well cooked. 

Geese. — A young goose will have its beak and feet yellow with a 
very few bristles about them; but an old bird will have the feet 
and bill red and bristly. When fresh, the feet are pliable, but 
stiff and dry when stale. The fat of a young bird is whiter and 
softer than that of an old bird, and the breast is plump, as is the 
case with all poultry in good condition; knowing which the dealers 
have a trick of breaking the breast bones to deceive their custom- 
ers, and foist upon them old birds for young ones. 

Ducks. — The feet and legs of a fresh killed duck are pliable and 
soft, but those of a stale one are stiff and dry. Freshness of the 
eye is an indication of a fresh bird. A Avild duck has rather small, 
reddish feet, while those of a tame duck are a d asky yellow, and 
somewhat large. An old duck should be kept hanging a few days 
before it is cooked; it will generally be lean aud thin as compared 
Vith a plump young bird. 
14 




CHAPTER XVI. 

Beef, Aitchbone of, to Carve. 

N carving an aitchbone of beef it is necessary 
that it should be cut across the grain. Tlie 
meat ^should be cut of a moderate thickness, 
and very evenly. Cut the lean and the fat' in 
one slice, and if more fat is wanted it should 
be taken horizontally from the side. Before 
proceeding to serve, a slice of about a quarter 
of an inch in thickness should be cut from the 
top, so that the juicy part of the meat may be obtained at once. 

Brisket of Beef Stewed. 

Take six pounds of beef, and, before dressing it, rub it over 
with vinegar and salt; place it in a stewpan with stock or water 
sufficient to cover it. Allow it to simmer for an hour, skimming 
it well all the time. Put in six each of carrots, turnips, and 
small onions, and allow all to simmer until the meat is quite 
tender, which will require about two hours more. As soon as it 
is ready the bones should be removed. Boil for a few minutes 
as much of the gravy as will be required with flour and a little 
butter, and season it with catsup, allspice and mace. Pour a 
little of it over the brisket, and send the remainder to the table 
in a separate dish. 

Making Tough Steak Tender. 



Take one teaspoonful of salad oil, two teaspoonfuls of vinegar 

210 




MEATS. 211 

rand a very little Cayenne pepper. Lay the steak upon it and let it 
remain one hour; then turn it over and let it lie an hour. Then fry 
•or broil as usual. The vinegar softens the fibre and the oil keeps it 
soft. Steak may stand over night this way if turned about ten 
■o'clock. Pounding steak is a great mistake; it breaks up the fibre, 
but drives out the juice and destroys much of its nutriment. 

Beef, Beisket of, to Carve. 
The accompanying engraving represents the appearance of a 

brisket of beef ready for the table. There is no difficulty in 

carving it. The only thing to 
observe is that it should be cut 
cleanly along the bones, in the 
direction indicated by the dot- 
ted line, with a firm hand, in 
moderately thick slices. Cut 

it close down to the bones, so that they may not have a rough and 

jagged appearance when removed. 

Broiled Steak. 
Never put salt on a steak until after it is cooked. After trim- 
ming on each side equally, dress to taste with sweet fresh butter, 
pepper and salt, and add, if preferred, a teaspoonful of lemon- juice. 

Broiled Beefsteak. 
To cook a good, juicy beefsteak, never pound it, but slash it) 
several times across each way; have a nice bright fire and broil as 
quickly as possible, withoiit burning; if the coals blaze from the 
drippings, sprinkle on a little salt, Avhich will instantly extinguish 
the flames. Steak should be turned constantly while broiling, and 
to be rare should not cook over three minutes; butter and salt after 
taking up. This should be served very hot. 

Rtdip Steak with Oyster Sauce. 
Let your oysters give a turn or two with plenty of butter in a 
frying-pan, then add pepper and salt, a little flour, and the juice of 



213 MEATS. 

half a lemon, with enough water to make up the quantity of sauce 
you want, stir till the oysters are done, and serve with the steak 
broiled in the usual way. 

To Fry Steak, or Cook in Frying Pan. 
If you have not a broiler, steak may be cooked nearly as well by 
heating the frying pan very hot and just greasing it with a little 
butter, or a little of the chopped suet, and lay in the steak and keep 
turning until sufficiently cooked; then transfer to a hot platter ancj 
season with salt and pepper, and cover with butter and serve. 

German Way of Frying Beefsteak. 
Pound the cut steak a little, salt it and fry quickly with hot lard on 
both sides; pour off the lard and place the steak on the dish; put 
into the pan some fresh butter and fry with it some finely cut 
onions and pour this over the steak. 

Beefsteak Smothered with Onions. 
Melt a lump of butter in a frying pan; cover the bottom of the 
pan with onions sliced very thin; then lay the steak over them. 
When the onions are fried until they are tender, put the beef on 
the bottom of the pan and cover it with the onions; add butter or 
lard as you need it. Liver cooked in this way is nice also. When 
it is done, lay it on a platter and heap the onions on the meat. A 
very little gravy made in the pan in which you have cooked the 
meat and onions is an addition, but make only a little and turn over 
the meat, seasoning it well with salt and pepper. 

Beefsteak Pie. 
'' Cut the steak into pieces an inch long, and stew with the boiae 
(cracked) in just enough water to cover the meat until it is half 
done. Line a pudding dish with a good paste. Put in a layer 
of the beef, with salt and pepper, and a very little chopped onion; 
then one of sliced boiled potatoes, with a little butter scattered 
u\jon them, and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all the 



MEATS. 



2i;j 




gravy in which the meat is stewed, having first thrown away 
the bone and thickened with flour. Cover with a crust thicker than 
the lower, leaving a slit in the middle. 

Ribs of Beef, to Cabve. 
The rib should be cut in thin and even slices from the thick end 

towards the thin. This can 
be more readily and cleanly 
done, if the carving-knife is 
first run along between the 
meat and the end and rib 
bones. 

To Roast Ribs of Beef. 
The best piece to roast is 
the fore-rib, and it should be 
hung for two or three days 
before it is cooked. The ends of the ribs should be sawn off, the 
outside fat fastened with skewers, and the strong sinew and chime 
bones removed. The joint should first be placed near the fire, and 
after a short time it should be drawn back and roasted steadily. 
Baste freely with clarified drippings at first, as there will not be 
sufiicient gravy when first put down; keep basting at intervals of 
ten minutes until done. Care must be taken not to allow it to 
bum, as it is easily spoiled. Serve with horse-radish sauce. 

To Roast Sirloin" of Beef. 
Take out the suet and lay it thickly over the fillet. Tie the flap 
under the fillet ard make all firm before it is put into the oven. 
Should vhe oven be very hot place a paper over the meat while yet 
raw, in which case it will need very little basting; or turn the rib 
side np toward the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it 
will take in cooking depends entirely upon the thickness of the 
joint and the length of time it has been killed. Skim the fat from 
the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared brown flour and a 
glass of sherry to the remainder. 




214 MEATS. 

Sirloij: or Beef, to Carve. 
A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm stroke from end to> 
end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the cut very clean 
from A, B to C. Then disengage it from the bone by a horizontal 
cut exactly to the bone, B to D, using the tip of the knife. Bad 
carving bears the hand away to the rind of the beef, eventually,, 
after many cuts, jjeeling it 
back to the other side, leav- 
ing a portion of the best of 
the meat adhering to the 
bone. Every slice should be 
clean and even, and the sirloin 
should cut fairly to the very 

end. Many persons cut the " ^"^ — ~~q' 

under side whilst hot, not reckoning it so good cold; but this is a- 
matter of taste, and so is the mode of- carving it. The best way is 
•first of all to remove the fat, E, which chops up well to make pud* 
dings, if not eaten at table. Then the under part can be cut as 
already described, from end to end, F to G, or downwards as shown, 
by the marks at H. 

Beef Balls. 

Mince very fine a* piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an 
onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and 
season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg and lemon peel; mix all 
together and moisten it with an eg^ beaten; roll it into balls, flour 
and fry them in boiling fresh dripping. Serve them with fried 
bread crumbs. 

Fillet of Beef. 

This is to be larded and dressed with a brown mushroom sauce. 
Trim the fat off a tenderloin of beef, and if you are going to dress 
it for dinner trim off the corners somewhat. It wants to be the 
shape of a fillet whole. A whole fillet is usually too large for a 
family dinner. Trim down the loin so it is smaller at each end». 



MEATS. 215 

Save the pieces of meat trimmed off, cut up in bits an inch square 
and make a stew with a few mushrooms or potatoes. Never by 
any means throw them away. After the fillet is trimmed lard it by 
inserting little strips of fat salt pork over the upper surface with a 
larding needle. After larding lay on a baking-pan with thin slices 
of salt poi-k under it, and put buttered pa])er over it to prevent 
burning the pork. Bake or roast it. It is usually served rare; then 
it should roast fifteen minutes to a pound. If it is to be well done 
it should roast twenty minutes for each pound. Season when 
brown, not before, with pepper and salt. 

A Good a^d Cheap Way to Cook Beef. 
A cheap dish can be made of a brisket or flank of beef. Cut a 
slice eight inches long and an inch thick, season highly, spread a 
stuffing of soaked bread highly seasoned over it, tie it up and lay 
in water enough to cover, and cook slowly a long time. . This 
makes a very nice dish and should be served with red cabbage. 
Cut up the cabbage as for cold slaw. Put in a saucepan one table- 
spoonful of sugar, me of butter, half a cup of vinegar, half a 
dozen pepper corns, and half a dozen cloves; then put in the cab- 
bage, cover tight and set on the back of the stove and let it steam 
an hour, when it will be tender. The beef may also be 
served with red beets, boiled till tender without breaking, 
peeled and laid around the dish of meat. A nice way to 
bake beef is to put in the pan under it a bed of vegetables and 
scraps of pork, a tablespoonful of carrot, turnip, sprigs of parsley, 
a half dozen cloves and a half dozen pepper corns; add a bay-leaf, 
if you wish, and a teaspoonful of onion. You will find that all 
these will give a nice flavor not only to the meat but also to the 
gravy made from the drippings. 

Beep a la Mode. 
Take a round of beef, remove the bone from the middle, also all 
the gristle and tough parts about the edges. Have ready half a 
pound of fat salt pork, cut into strips as thick and long as your 



216 MEATS. 

finger. Prepare a nice dressing the same as for stuffing a turkey. 

With a thin sharp knife make perpendicular incisions in the meat 

about half an inch apart, thrust into them the pork, and work ir 

with them some of the dressing. Proceed thus until the meat is 

thoroughly plugged.- Put it into a baking pan with a little water 

at the bottom; cover tightly and bake slowly four hours; then 

uncover, and spread the rest of the dressing over the top, and bake 

until a nice brown. After taking up, thicken the gravy and pour 

o\ er the beef. It should be sliced horizontally. Is good either hot 

or cold. 

Pounded Beef. 

Boil a shin of twelve pounds of meat until it falls readily from 

the bone; pick it to pieces; mash gristle and all very fine; pick out 

all the hard bits. Set the liquor away; when cool, take off all the 

fat; boil the liquor down to a pint and a half. Then return the 

meat to it while hot; add pepper and salt and any spice you choose. 

Let it boil a few times, stirring all the while. Put into a mold 

DT deep dish to cool. Use cold and cut in thin slices for tea, or 

warm it for breakfast. 

Beef Coquettes. 

Use cold roast beef; chop it fine; season with pepper and salt; 
add one-third the quantity of bread crumbs, and moisten with a 
little milk. Have your hands floured; rub the meat into balls, dip 
it into beaten egg, then into fine pulverized cracker, and fry in but- 
ter; garnish with parsley. 

Deviled Beep. 

Take slices of cold roast beef, lay them on hot coals, and broilf 
season with pepper and salt, and serve while hot, with a small lumf 
of butter on each piece. 

Beef Sausages. 

To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one and one-half pounds 
of suet, and chop very fine; season with sage in powder, allspice, 
pepper and salt; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meal 
into them. 



MEATS. 217 

Beef av Gratin". 
Take cold beef, either boiled or roasted, and cut it in thin slices, 
Urease a tin pan with butter, dust with bread crumbs, put in a little 
■chopped parsley, and lay on the slices of beef. Put salt, pepper, 
and parsley on top, dust with bread crumbs, drop on lemon-juice, 
ftnd a little broth, just to cover the bottom of the pan, and place it 
in the oven. 

Beef Heart. 

Wash it carefully and stuff it nicely with dressing as for turkey; 
roast it about one and a half hours, and serve with the gravy, 
which should be thickened with some of the stuffing. It is very 
flice hashed. 

Dried Beej' in Cream. 

Shave your beef very fine; pour over it boiling water; let it 
«tand for a few minutes; pour this off and pour on good rich cream ; 
let it come to a boil. If you have not cream, use milk and butter, 
and thicken with a very little flour; season with pepper, and serve 
on toast or not, as you like. 

Beef Omelette. 
Three pounds of beefsteak, three-fourths of a pound of suet, 
chopped fine, salt, pepper, and a little sage, three eggs, six Boston 
crackers, rolled; make into roll and bake. 

Broiled Beef Tongue. 
Put a fresh tongue on the fire w'th just cold water enough to 
cover it, and with it a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices 
of lemon, some black pepper, salt and a little garlic. Let it simmer 
gently for about two hours till quite tender. Skin and trim it. 
Either serve it whole or cut it in slices, and arrange in a ring with 
the following thick sauce in the center: Strain the liquor in which 
ihe tongue was cooked (this should be reduced by simmering to a 
mere gravy) ; brown a large tablespoonf ul of flour in a good sized 
piece of butter; braize two or three cloves of garlic, and let them 



218 MEATS. 

steam a little while in the browning; then add the strained gravy 
by degrees, stirring it quite smooth. Add a little lemon-juice or 
vinegar; and whether it be served whole or sliced, dish the sauce 
with the tongue. If garlic is objected to, make a sauce of grated 
horse-radish, a carrot bruised fine, capers and a little wine. Gar- 
nish with lemon slices and parsley. 

To Boil Beef. 
Put fresh beef into boiling water (unless you wish to make soup, 
then it should be put into cold water) and bring quickly to a boil, 
then set on back part of the stove and simmer gently till done. 
Corned beef, if very salt, should be soaked over night, then put 
into lukewarm, not boiling, water. Simmer from the time of boil- 
ing till it is served up. Skim the pot thoroughly and turn the 
meat tT/ice during the simmering. The meat will be much better 
if allowed to cool in the liquor in Avhich it is cooked. 

Tongue Roasted. 
Parboil a tongue that has been salted about ten days; roast, 
baste with red wine, and cover it at last with butter. Serve with 
a rich gravy and sweet sauce. 

Tetpe. 
This may be served in a tureen, stewed tender with milk and 
onions, or fried in bits dipped in butter. In both the above ways 
serve melted butter for sauce. Or cut the thin parts in oblong bits 
and stew in gravy; thicken with butter rolled in a very little flour, 
and add a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Or boil it tender in milk, 
and serve in milk-white sauce. 

Teipe a la Lyonnaise with Tomatoes. 
This economical dish, which is in reach of every family, is also 
■very fine. Take two pounds of dressed and boiled tripe, cut into 
small strips two inches long and put into a saucepan. Parboil and 
drain off the first water, chop a small onion fine, and let all stew 
twenty minutes; add half a cup of thickening and then stir in half 



MEATS. 219 

a can of tomatoes; season with salt and jjepper. This dish has 
become very popular in all the hotels throughout the country. 

Bullock's Heart, Roasted. 
Wash the heart in several waters, clean the blood carefully from 
the pipes, and put it to soak in vinegar and water for two hours or 
more. Drain it and fill it either with ham forcemeat or sage and 
onion stuffing. Fasten it securely, tie it in a cloth, put into a pan 
of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Take off 
the cloth and roast the heart while hot, basting it plentifully with 
good dripping for two hours longer. Serve with good brown 
gravy and currant jelly. The stewing may be omitted and the 
heart simply roasted for three or four hours, but the flesh will not 
then be so tender. 

Calf's Heaet, Roasted. 

Wash the heart very clean, soak it in vinegar and water, fill it 
with a forcemeat made of four ounces of bread crumbs, two ounces 
of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful 
of finely-rainced lemon rind, and a little salt and Cayenne. Fasten 
the heart securely and bake for two hours. Serve it with good 
melted butter, mixed with a tablespoonful of- lemon-juice or vin- 
egar. A calf's heart is improved by partially boiling before it is 
roasted. 

Calf's Heaet, Fried. 

Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices about a quarter of an 
Inch thick and fry these in a little hot dripping or^butter. About 
five minutes before they are done, put a slice of bacon into the pan 
for each slice of heart and when they are sufficiently cooked, serve 
on a hot dish and cover each piece of heart with a slice of bacon. 
Boil two or three tablespoonfuls of thin fiour and water in the pan 
in which the meat was fried. Season it with pepper and salt; add 
one tablespoonful of red currant jelly and serve as hot as possible.. 
The elices of heart will fry in fifteen minutes. 



'220 MEATS. 

Sheep's Heart, Baked. 
"Wash two or three sheeps' hearts in lukewarm water, fill them 
with veal forcemeat, and skewer them securely. Fai^'ten a rasher 
of fat bacon around each, place them in a deep dish, and with them 
a little good stock, and an onion stuck with two cloves. Bake in a 
moderate oven for two hours; draw off the gravy; thicken with a 
little flour and buttei*, and season it with salt and pepper and a 
tablespoonf ul of mushroom or walnut catsup. Put the hearts on a 
hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and send red currant jelly 
with them to the table. 

Sweetbreads. 

Sweetbreads should be chosen as fresh as possible, as they very 
■quickly spoil. There are two sorts — heart sweetbreads and throat 
sweetbreads. The heart sweetbreads are the best. In. whatever 
way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be soaked^ in luke- 
warm water for a couple of hours. They should then be put into 
boiling water and simmer gently for five or ten minutes, according 
to size, and then taken up and laid in cold water. Sweetbreads are 
•quite as frequently employed as ingredients in sundry made dishes 
as served alone, and as they do not possess a very decided natural 
flavor, they need to be accompanied by a highly seasoned sauce, or 
they will taste rather insipid. They are in full season from May 
to August. 

Sweetbreads Fried. 

Prepare them as usual. Cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb 
them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in 
plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides. 
-Drain them, and then dish on toast. Serve with cucumber sauce. 

Sweetbreads Baked. 
After preparing the sweetbreads as above, brush them over in 
'•every part with beaten egg, roll them in bread crumbs, sprinkle 
•^arified butter over them, and bread-crumb them again. Put them 



MEATS. 22 L 

in a baking-tin with about two ounces of butter, and bake in a well- 
heated oven; baste them till they are done enough and brightly 
browned. Take as many slices of hot toast as there are sweetbreads, 
put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon them, pour brown 
gravy round, but not over them, and serve immediately. 

Sweetbreads Broiled. 
Take moderate-sized sweetbreads and prepare them in the usual 
way. Stew them in good stock till they are done enough. Then 
drain them and press them between two dishes till they are cold. 
Split them in halves and trim them neatly; brush them over with 
butter, and broil them over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a 
plate Avith clarified butter on it near the gridiron and keep dipping 
the sweetbreads in it, turning them frequently. When they are 
brightly browned all over they are done enough. Dish the slices 
in a circle, and send brown sauce, flavored with lemon-juice, to 
table in a tureen. 

Sweetbreads and Cauliflowers. 
Take four large sweetbreads and two cauliflowers. Split open 
the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak them awhile in luke- 
warm water; put them into a saucepan of boilhig Avater, and set 
them to boil ten minutes. Afterwards lay them in a pan of cold 
water to make them firm. The parboiling is to Avhiten them. 
Wash, drain and quarter the cauliflowers. Put them in a broad 
stewpan with the sweetbreads on them; season with a little Cayenne 
and a little nutmeg and add water to cover' them. Put on the lid 
of the pan and stew one houi-. Take a quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter and roll it in two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this with a 
cup of milk to the stew, and give it one boil up and no more. Serve 
hot, in a deep dish. This stew will be found delicious. 

Tomato Sweetbreads. 
Cut up a quarter of a peck of fine ripe tomatoes; set them over 
the fire, and let them stew in nothing but their own juice till they" 



•222 MEATS. 

go to pieces — then strain them through a sieve; have ready four or 
five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely and soaked in warm 
water. Put them into a stewpan with the tomato juice, and a little 
salt and Cayenne; add twoorthreetablespoonfulsof butter rolled in 
flour. Set the saucepan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads till 
done. A few minutes before you take them up, stir in two beaten 
yolks of eggs. Serve the sweetbreads in a deep dish, with the 
tomato poured over them. 

Kidneys, Broiled or Roasted. 
Split the kidneys in two without separating the halves; peel oft 
the thin outer skin. Season them with salt and pepper; broil them, 
laying the flat sides first on the gridiron, to keep the gravy in; or, 
fry them the same. Or place them with the flat side upwards in a 
baking dish and put them in the oven. When done, serve in the 
same diah in which they were baked. Immediately before serving, 
put on each half -kidney a piece of butter and a little finely-chopped 
parsley. 

Stewed Kidneys. 

Split ehe kidneys and peel off the outer skin as before; slice them 
thin on a plate; dust them with flour, pepper and salt; brown some 
flour in butter in a stewpan; dilute with a little water; mix smooth 
and in it cook the sliced kidneys. Let them simmer, but not boil. 
They will cook in a very short time. Butter some slices of toast 
and lay on a hot dish and pour over it the stewed kidneys, gravy 
and alL 

Fried Liver. 

Cut one pound of liver into slices one-fourth inch in thickness, 
and dredge some flour over them. Take an equal number of slices 
of bacon; fry the bacon first, and when it is done enough remove 
from the fat and place them on a hot dish. Fry the slices of liver 
in the same fat, and when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon 
..and liver in a circle, a slice of each alternately. Pour the fat from 
dhe pan and dredge a little flour into it; add a quarter of a pint of 



MEATS. 



223 



broth, a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of mushroom 
catsup. Stir smoothly together until the sauce boils, and pour into 
the dish with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If liked, a 
tablespoonful of fine\y-minced gherkins or pickled walnuts may be 
added to the sauce. 

Fried Liveb, No. 2. 

Take one egg to one pound of liver; cut the liver thin, scald with 
hot water and wipe dry; beat up the egg, dip the slices of liver 
into the egg, then into powdered cracker, and fry brown. 

Roast Quarter of Lamb. 
Trim the joint and skewer three or four slices of bacon securely 

to the outer side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over the 

inner part and strew upon it a thick covering of finely-grated bread 

crumbs seasoned with pepper, 
salt and a little finely-minced 
parsley. Put in the oven, and 
when nearly done remove the 
bacon and baste the meat with 
the beaten yolk of egg mixed 
with the gravy, throw some 
more bread crumbs over it and 

let it remain until nicely browned. If liked, squeeze the juice of a 

lemon over it and serve with mint sauce. 

Lamb Chops, Fried. 
Cut a loin or neck of lamb into chops from half to three-quarters 
of an inch in thickness. Dip each one into beaten egg and after- 
wards into bread crumbs, flavored as follows: Mix thi'ee ounces of 
finely-grated bread crumbs with a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley and a 
quarter of a teaspoonful of finely-mixed lemon rind. Fry the chops 
in good drippings until lightly browned on both sides. Serve on a 
hot dish and garnish with slices of lemon or crisped parsley. 




224 MEATS. , ♦ 

Lamb Chops, Broiled, 
Cut the chops about half an inch thick, trim them neatly, remov- 
ing the superfluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear 
fire and brown them nicely on both sides. Season them with salt 
and pepper, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with parsley. 
Mashed potatoes, asparagus, green pease, or spinach, are usually- 
served with lamb chops. 

Stewed Lamb with Gkebn Pease. 
Take two pounds of lamb, put it into a etewpan and cover witb 
cold water; after removing the scum add a little pepper and salt, 
then let the meat stew for an hour and a half or nearly two hours;, 
now add some boiling water (to make gravy); add your grees?' 
pease (half a peck before shelling); let these cook about twenty 
minutes; stir up a tablespoonful of flour into naif a cup of milk 
and mix with the stew. Let this cook two minutes. 

Lamb Cutlets. 
Trim the slices free from fat, beat up the yolk of a.n egg with 
rasped bread or crackers, seasons with pepper and salt, dip in '^.he 
cutlets and fry in butter gently, until thoroughly done. / 

Boiled Breast of Mutton. 
Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the fat; flatten it on the 
kneading-board, and cover the surface thinly with a forcemeat 
made of bread crumbs, minced savory herbs, a little chopped 
parsley, pepper, salt and an egg. The forcemeat should not be 
spread too near the edge, and when rolled, the breast should be 
tied securely, to keep the forcemeat in its place. If gently boiled, 
and ser\'ed hot, it will be generally liked. Serve with good cape/" 
sauce. 

Haunch of Mutton a la Venison. 
Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown sugar; 
rub it well into the mutton, which should be placed in a deep dish 



MEATS. 225 

for four days, and basted three or four times a day with the liquor 
that drains from it; then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of 
a pound more of sugar, mixed with a little (common salt, and hang it 
up, haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In winter it 
should be kept two or three weeks and roasted in paste, like ven- 
3on. Serve with currant jelly. The paste (made with flour and 
water) should be removed fifteen minutes before serving. 

Breast of Mutton with Pkase. 
Cut about two pounds of the breast of mutton into small square 
pieces. Put them into a stewpan with about an ounce of butter, and 
brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth or water, and stew 
for an hour. Remove the meat from the stewpan, and clear tho 
gravy from fat. Put the meat into a clean stewpan, add an onion 
or shallot sliced finely, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper and 
salt, and strain the gravy over all. Stew for another hour, then 
put in a quart of young pease, and serve in about twenty minutes. 
Macaroni may be used in the place of pease. 

Mutton Curried. 
Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and chop fine, or pound 
in a mortar four onions; add the onions to the butter with an ounce 
of curry powder, a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful of flour, 
and half a pint of cream; stir until smooth. Fry two pounds of 
mutton — cut in neat pieces without bone — to a light brown color. 
Lay the meat into a clean stewpan, and jjour the curry mixture 
over; simmer until the meat is done. 

Mutton Chops. 
First select well-fed mutton, but not too fat, and get the chops 
evenly cut; if not, beat them into shape with the chopper. Not 
more than one-third of the chop should be fat. Put an ounce of 
butter or lard into the frying-pan; when it is entirely melted seize 
the chop at the bone end with a fork, and dip it for half a minute 
into the fat, then turn on one side, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
15 



226 MEATS. 

and if liked, finely-cliopped shallot or onion, and savory herbs. In 
three minutes turn, and serve the other side the same; equalize the 
cooking by frequent turning, but give the chop altogether not more 
than ten minutes. A piece of garlic, if the flavor be approved, 
may be rubbed across the dish when hot, or it may be rubbed 
iightly across the chop. Serve with plain or maitre d'hotel butter. 

Mutton Cutlets a la Minute. 
The mutton for these cutlets should be cut from the middle of 
the leg, and sliced thin; season slightly with salt and pepper. Fry 
the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it crisp, turning it often. 
Let the cutlets be kept warm in the oven while the gravy is pre- 
paring. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped with a shallot, a 
sprig or two of parsley and thyme, minced fine. Stew these in the 
butter for a few minutes, and season with salt and pepper; add flour 
«tnd \7r.ter, strain and serve round the cutlets. 

Mutton Cutlets and Pueee of Potatoes. 
Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, mash them smootB, 
put them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, two or 
three tablespoonfuls of cream or broth, pepper and salt; make them 
hot, and pile them in the center of a liot dish. The cutlets may be 
bread-crumbed and fried, or, if preferred, broiled and served round 
the puree. 

•Boiled Leg of Mutton, 
Cut off the shank bone, put it into a large stewpan or kettle, with 
as much boiling water as will cover it. When restored to its boil- 
ing state, skim the surface clean, and set the stewpan back and 
allow the contents to simmer until done. Allow for a leg of mut- 
ton of nine or ten pounds, from two and a half to three hours from 
the time it boils. Boil very young turnips far a garnish, also boil 
larger turnips to mash. Place the young turnips, which should be 
of equal size, round the dish witli the mutton and send the mashed 
ones to the table separately. Melted butter, with capers addod. 



MEATS. 



227 



should accompany the dish. The liquor from the boiling may be 
converted into good soup at a trifling expense. 

Mutton Kebbobed. 
Take a loin of mutton; joint well; take the following dressing 
and put between each joint: Two tablespoonfuls chopped parsley, 
a little thyme, a nutmeg grated, a cup of bread crumbs; mix well 
with two eggs; roast one hour. If there is a large flap to the loin, 
some of the dressing may be put in and then skewered securely. 

Leg of Mutton, To Carve. 
The leg of mutton comes to the table as shown in Fig. 1. Take 
the carving fork, as usual, in your left hand, and plant it firmly in 
the joint, as shown by A, in Fig. 1, placing it rather over to the 
other side of the joint, and drawing the leg over toward you on the 
dish about one-third, which brings the position of the fork from A 
to B. Cut straight down across the joint at the line marked C, not 
quite to the bone. Make the second cut a little on the slant, as 
shown in D, and take the piece out; continue cutting from each 
♦'ide slantingly as the line marked D, either from the thick or the 

knuckle end, ac- 
cording to the 
taste of the per- 
son to be helped. 
A very small 
piece of the fat 
should be given 
with each slice 
of meat to those 
who like it. The 
knuckle, if any 
one asks for it, 

is first cut off in a lump, as shown by the circular line at F, and after- 
wards in slices. Mutton should be cut thick, but it should not be 
«ut to the bone; the slice in the centre should not penetrate so far 




228 MEATS. 

as the circular kernel of fat found there, and called the " pope's 
eye " which is generally considered best to leave for hashing. 

The back of a leg of mutton is not generally cut until cold, when 
it is best sliced lengthwise, as shown in Fig. 2 ; the meat is still cut 
thick, but not quite so thick as in the cuts previously described. 
Cold mutton should be served with mashed potatoes and pickles, 

a part called H 

the "crump bone" in a leg of mutton, which may be removed by a 
circulai cut from H to J in Fig. 2; it is usually relished cold. Fig. 
2 shows the joint when turned three parts over, held by the fork as 
previously described, and the dotted line at J indicates the direc- 
tion of the first cut. 

Roast Leg of Mutto^t. 
Get a leg of about eight pounds, which has hung at least a week, 
weather allowing. During hot summer weather this joint gets 
quickly tainted. Rub it lightly with salt, and put it at once into* 
a hot oven for the first few minutes, then allow the oven to cool, 
and roast more slowly until done. Baste continually with a little 
good dripping until that from the joint begins to flow. When 
within twenty minutes to being done, dredge it with flour, and 
baste with butter or dripping; and when the froth rises serve on a 
hot dish. Make a gravy and pour round the meat, not over it. 

MuTTOx Cutlets with Provincale Sauce. 
Use one-fourth of a medium-sized onion, tablespoonful of butter; 
put over the fire and gradually add a spoonful of flour, cup of 



MEATS. 



229 



water, one-half cup thyme, season with pepper and salt and stir 
constantly; add the yolks of two raw eggs and cook until about as 
thick as cream. This sauce can be used on cold meats, or in cook- 
ing raw meat. When used in cooking cutlets or other meats, the 
meats should be very slightly cooked on both sides in a hot skillet, 
then have a pot of fat large enough for the meat to swim in. Dip 
the cutlets in the sauce and put them in the boiling fat. Take 
them out and roll in cracker dust and bread crumbs; put them 
back, and do this occasionally until the meat floats on top of the 
Fat. They are then done. 

Pork — To Keep Frksh in Summee. 
Take pork, when killed in the early part of the winter, and let it 
lie in pickle about a week or ten days, or until just sufficiently 
«alted to be palatable; then slice it up and fry it about half or two- 
thirds as much as you would for present eating; now lay it away 
in its own grease, in jars properly covered, in a cool place, as you 
would lard. Re-fry when ready to use. 

PoRK, TO Cook. 
Large pork, such as portions of the shoulder, loin, or spare-rib, 
of large bacon hogs, may be cooked as follows: Rub the joint 
■with pepper and salt, and put it into a large saucepan with a closely- 
fitting lid. When nearly done, add two or three onions and carrots, 
with half a dozen sticks of celery, four sage leaves, a bunch of 
parsley, a small sprig of marjoram and thyme, and as much stock 
or water as mil cover the whole. Let the liquors boil up; skim 
carefully; then set back and simmer gently for three or four hours, 
according to size of joint. When the pork is done enough, lift it 
out, put the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a p rtion of the 
gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the pork. When the pork is 
removed from the table, trim it neatly and place on a clean dish to 
be eaten cold, or thicken the rest of the gravy and pour over the 
meat to be warmed over. 



230 MEATS. 

Pork, Belly Rolled and Boiled. 
Salt a belly of pork — young meat is the best — by mixing a ealt- 
spoonful of powdered saltpetre with two tablespoonfuls of common 
salt, sprinkle the mixture over the pork, and let it lie for three days. 
When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold water, and dry it 
with a cloth. Lay it, skin downwards, on the table, remove the 
bones, and cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into thin 
slices. Sprinkle over these a little powdered mace and pepper. 
Roll the meat tightly and bind securely with tape. Put it into a. 
saucepan with two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, 
a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly 
to a boil, skim carefully, draw it to the back of stove, and simmer 
gently till the meat is done enough. Put it between two dishes, 
lay a weight upon it, and leave it until quite cold. The bandages 
should not be removed until the meat is ready to be served. Time 
to simmer, half an hour per pound. 

Pork Brawn. 
Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and two pig's feet. Clean 
and wash them, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of salt over them, and let 
them drain until the following day; dry them with a soft cloth and 
rub into them a powder made of six ounces of common salt, six 
ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre, and 
three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper. Dry the powder well, 
and rub it into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and feet; turn 
them over and rub them again every day for ten days. Wash the 
pickle from them, cut off the ears, and boil the feet and ears an 
hour and a half; then put in the head and tongue, cover with cold 
water, and boil until the meat will leave the bones. Take them up, 
drain, cut the meat into small pieces; first remove all bones, and 
skin the tongue. Season the mince with a teaspoonful of white 
pepper, three saltspoonfuls of powdered mace, one saltspoonful 
each of powdered nutmeg and Cayenne. Stir all well together, 
press the meat while warm into a brawn tin, and lay a heavy weftrhfr 




POEK. 

1. Used for ham", roasts and corned pork. 

2. Ilind-loiu — Used for roasts, baked dishes and chops. 

3. Fore-loin. — Used the same as No. 2. 

4. Spare-rib. — Used for roasts, chops and stews. 

5. Shoulder. — Used to smoke, roast or corn. 

6. Flank and brisket. — Used for smoked bacon, and for pickling in salt. 

Venison. 

1. Shoulder. — Used for roasts. 

2. Fore loin. — Used for roasts and steaks. 

3. Hind-loin. — Used for steaks, roasts or stews. 

4. Breast. — Used for stewing and baking. 

5. Neck. — Used for soups. 



232 MEATS. 

on the lid. Put it in a cool place until the following day; dip the 
mold in boiling water, turn the brawn out, and serve with vinegar 
and mustard. 

Pork Chops, Broiled, 

Cut the chops rather less than half an inch thick. Have a clear 
fire; make the gridiron hot before putting the chops on it; pepper 
the chops, and when nearly done sprinkle salt, and a little powdered 
sage over them. Let them be done through, turn frequently, and 
serve hot. Tomato sauce eats well Avith pork chops. 

Pork Chops, Fried. 
Cut pork chops a half an inch in thickness; trim them neatly; 
sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt a 
little butter in a frying-pan, put the chops in it and fry them until 
they are thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered sage may be 
sprinkled over them before serving. Send apple sauce to table with 
them. 

Pork Cutlets, Broiled. 

Pork cutlets are best taken from the neck or fore loin of small 
dairy-fed pork, not very fat. Neatly trim them. Score the skin at 
regular intervals and flatten the cutlets with a cutlet-bat. Brush 
them over with oil, season with salt and pej^per, and place them on 
a hot gridiron over a clear fire. Turn them occasionally, that they 
may be equally browned on both sides, and let them be thoroughly 
cooked. Put them on a hot dish, and send tomato, piquant or any 
appropriate sauce to table with them. 

Leg of Pork, Good as Goose. 

Parboil a leg of pork and take off the skin. Make a stuffing as 
follows: Mince two ounces of onion very finely; mix with it half a 
chopped apple, four ounces of bread crumbs, half a dozen chopped 
sage leaves, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Bind 
the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Make a slit in the 
knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and fasten securely. Put the pork 
into the oven and baste liberally. Half an hour before it is taken 



MEATS. 2;;:j 

np, sprinkle over it a savory powder made of two tablespoonfuls of 
bread crumbs mixed with one tablespoouful of ]>owdere<l sage, and 
a little pepper and salt. Do not baste the meat after the powder 
is put upon it. Serve with good brown gravy and apple sauce. 

PoEK Cutlets, Feied. 
Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and stir into it a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonf ul each of chopped sage, 
and minced shallot. Move these ingredients about for a few 
minutes, then add a little salt and pepper, and two well-beaten 
eo-o-s. Dip the cutlets first into this mixture, then into finely-grated 
bread crumbs, and let them stand ten minutes. Melt a little butter 
in a frying-pan, fry the cutlets in it, and when thoroughly done, 
serve with a good brown sauce. 

Boiled Leg of Pork with Pease Pudding. 
Take a leg of pork and rub it over with salt; put it into a vessel 
and cover with salt and let it stand for ten days. At the end of 
that time boil it in soft water, and serve with cabbage all round it, 
and a pease pudding made as follows : Take a quart of dry pease, 
wash them, tie them in a clean bag, and boil with the pork. When 
the pease are done, strain them through a colander, put in a large 
lump of butter, some salt, and two yolks of eggs, and put back into 
the bag, and boil again for half an hour. The pease must be put into 
cold soft water for two hours before being boiled, otherwise they 
<vill never boil tender. 

PoEK Pies. 

Make a crust as for chicken pies. Cut the meat into pieces the 
size of a small nut, and keep the lean and fat separate. Season the 
whole with pepper and salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sage. 
Pack the fat and lean closely into the pie in alternate layers until it 
.s filled; put on the top crust and ornament according to taste; brush 
nver with well-beaten egg, and bake in a slow oven as the meat is 
.K)lid and requires to be cooked through, the outside pieces will be 
hard unless cut very small and pressed closely together. Take the 



234 MEATS. 

bones and trimmings of the pork and ste-vr them to make gravy; 
boil it until it will jelly when cold, strain, thicken and flavor, and 
when the pie is done raise the top crust and fill it with the gravy, 
and send the balance of the gravy to table in a tureen. 

Roast Loin of Pork. 
Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork at equal distances about a 
quarter of an inch apart. Brush it over with salad oil, season with 
salt and pepper, and place in a moderate oven. Baste liberally with 
butter or dripping at first, and when done serve on a hot dish, and 
serve with brown gravy and apple sauce. If liked, a little sage and 
onion stuffing may be served on a separate dish. 

Pork Cake. 
Cut the meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast pork, and 
mince it very finely; mix with it a couple of large potatoes freshly 
boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a 
little powdered sage. Add two or three eggs, a little milk, suffi- 
cient to make a very thick batter. Fry tlie cake like an omelet, or 
bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. 

Pork Sausages. 

Have two-thirds lean and one-third fat pork; chop very fine. 
Season with one teaspoonful pepper, one of salt, three of pow- 
dered sage to every pound of meat. Warm the meat so that you can 
mix it well with your hands, do up a part in small patties, with a 
little flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. When used, 
do it up in small cakes, flour the outside and fry in butter, or alone. 
They should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little 
cinnamon to a part of them will be a pleasant addition. They 
should be kept where it is cool, but not damp. They are very nice 
for breakfast. 

Pork and Beans. 

Take two pounds side pork, not too fat nor too lean, and two 
quarts of marrowfat beans; put V.\o beans to soak the night before 



MEATS. 235 

you boil them in a gallon of niilk-warni water. After breakfast,, 
scald and scrape the rind of the pork, and put on to boil an hour 
before putting in the beans; as soon as the beans boil up, pour off 
the water and put on one gallon of fresh water; boil until quite 
tender, adding more water if necessary; great care must be taken 
that they do not scorch. When nearly as stiff as mashed potatoes, 
put into a baking-dish, score the pork and put in the center; brown 
in the oven one hour. If preferred use corned beef instead of pork. 

Pressed Head. 
Boil the several parts of the entire head and the feet, in the same 
way as for souse. All must be boiled so perfectly tender that the 
meat will separate easily from the bones. After neatly separated, 
chop the meat fine Avhile warm, seasoning with salt, pej^per, and 
other spices, to taste. Put it in a sti'ong bag, place a weight on it 
and let it remain till cold. Or put it in any convenient dish, 
placing a plate with a Aveight on it to press the meat. Cut in 
slices, roll in flour, and fry in lard. 

Boiled Pig's Feet. 
Take the fore feet, cut off the hocks, clean and scrape them well; 
place two feet together and roll them up tightly in common mus- 
lin; tie or sew them so that they will keep in perfect shape, and 
boil them seven hours on a moderate fire — they will then be very 
soft; lift them out carefully and let them cool off; then remove the 
muslin and you will find them like jelly. Serve with vinegar, or 
split them and roll in bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry or 
broil them. Serve with a little tart sauce. 

Pig's Foot Cheese. 
Boil the hocks and feet of equal quantity loose in a pot till the 
meat will fall freely from the bones; season well with pepper and 
salt; put into a pan while hot and press it. Cut in slices and serve 
with vinegar or Worcestershire sauce. Both of the above are : 
great delicacies if properly cooked. 



'236 MKATS. 

To KoAsT A Sucking Pig. 

If you can get it when first killed tins is of great advantage 
Let it be scalded, which the dealers usually do; then jjut some sage, 
a large piece of stalish bread, salt and pepper in the inside and sew 
it up. Observe to skewer the legs back, or the underpart will not 
crisp. Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry; then have ready 
some butler in a dry cloth and rub the pig with it in every part. 
Dredge as much flour over it as will possibly lie, and do not touch 
it again till ready to serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully 
with a blunt knife, rub the pig well with a buttered cloth, and take 
' off the head while at the fire; take out the brains and mix them 
with the gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up and cut 
it down the back and breast, lay it into the dish and chop the sage 
and bread quickly as fine as you can, and mix them with a large 
quantity of melted butter, that has a very little flour. Put the 
• sauce into the dish after the pig has been split down the back and 
vgarnished with the ears and the two jaws; take off the upper part 
-of the head down to the snout. Li Devonshire it is served whole, 
if very small, the head only being cut off to garnish with as above. 
It will require from an hour to an hour and a half to roast, accord- 
ing to size. 

To Cure Hams. 

Take coarse salt, with a sprinkle of saltpetre, pepper and sugar; 
powder and mix ; rub this in well a few times; smoke and wrap closely 
in paper of four folds or more; pack in dry ashes four inches thick 
around each hain. They will keep through the hottest of weather 
aiul be as good as new. 

Ham Pie. 

Make a crust the same as for soda biscuit, line your dish, put ip 
s. layer of potatoes, sliced thin, popper, salt, and a little butter, then 
a layer of lean ham; add considerable water, and you will have an 
>->exoellent pie. 



MEATS. 237 

BoTfTCD Ham; Fine Substitute for Turkey. 
Take a good salted but unsmoked bain, remove the bone so as to ^ 
leave the meat as solid as possible. In place of the bone put 
dressing made same as for turkey, and bake. It is good hot or cold. 

Baked Ham. 

Make a thick paste of flour (not boiled) and cover the ham witk 
it, bono and all; put in a pan on a spider or two muffin rings, or 
anything that will keep it an inch from the bottom, and bake in a 
hot oven. If a small ham, fifteen minutes for each pound; if large, 
twenty minutes. The oven should be hot when put in. The paste 
forms a hard crust around the ham and the skin comes off with it. 
Try this and you will never cook a ham any other way. 

Smoked Meat on Toast. 
Take a cold smoked tongue or ham that has been well boiled, , 
and grate it with a coarse grater or mince it fine, mix it with cream 
and beaten yolk of egg, and let it simmer' over the fire. Prepare 
some nice slices of toast, butter them rather slightly, lay them in a 
flat dish that has been heated over the fire, and cover each slice 
with the meat mixture, which should be spread on hot. Place on the 
table in a covered dish, for either breakfast or supper. 

Ham and Eggs. 

Cut the ham into thin slices and broil, and spread over it a little 
butter. Poach the eggs in salted water and lay neatly upon the 
ham. 

Boiled Ham. 

Soak twenty-four hours; put into a pot with cold water and boil 
gently for five or six hours; take it off the fire and let it remain in 
the water until cold. Peel off tl)e skin and sprinkle with bread or 
cracker crumbs, and brown in the ovea. Slice very thin for the . 
table. 



-238 MEATS. 

Ham Balls. 
Take one-half cup of bread crumbs and mix with two eggs well 
beaten; chop fine some bits of cold boiled ham and mix with them. 
Make into balls and fry. 

Ham Garnishing and Ornamenting. 
The usual way of finishing a ham, when it is not glazed, is to 

>j^*^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ dredge bread raspings all over 

Remove the rind by taking hold of the thick end first. Trim it 
neatly, put it in the oven for a few minutes; and press a cloth over 
it to dry it; brush it over with a paste brush dipped in glaze (a 
strong clear gravy boiled down as thick as syrup). To melt the 
glaze, put the jar which contains it into a saucepan of boiling 
water, and stir until dissolved. Brush the ham with two or three 

• coats. 

Collared Breast of Veal. 
Bone a breast of veal; lay it on the table and spread on it a thick 
layer of oyster forcemeat {See oyster /orcemeat) ; roll the veal as 
tightly as possible, and bind it with a tape. Put it into boiling 
water; let it boil up once; skim the liquor carefully; set the sauce- 
pan back and simmer the contents gently until done; put the bones 
into a separate saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt; let them sirara'?r till th«j 
liquor is strong and pleasantly flavored; strain it, thicken with a 
little flour and butter, and stir into it two or three tablespoonfuls 

■of thick cream, or, if milk has to be used, beat into it the yolk of 



MEATS. 239 

an egg. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. 
This dish may be garnished with forcemeat balls, and with the 
sweetbreads cut into slices, egged, and bread-crumbed and fried; 
or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be used instead. The meat 
may be baked instead of boiled, and then a little weak stock should 
"be put into the pan with it, and it should be basted frequently. 

Boiled Breast of Veal. 

If the sweetbread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water 
for a couple of hours; then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a 
saucepan, with boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, and care- 
fully remove the scum as it rises; add a handful of chopped 
parsley, a teaspoonful of pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a little 
salt. Draw it back, and then simmer gently until done enough. 
Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley 
sauce over it. Send boiled bacon to the table on a separate dish. 
The sweetbread may, of course, be dressed separately. 

Ragout op Beeast op Veal. 
Take off the under bone, and put the veal into a stewpan with as 
much boiling stock as will cover it; let the liquor boil up, then add 
a large carrot, sliced, three onions, a blade of mace, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, the thin rind of a lemon, and pepper and salt; skim 
the gravy and simmer it gently until the veal is quite tender- 
Thicken the gravy till it is of the consistency of sauce, and stir into 
it the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of sherry or Madeira. 
Put the veal into a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with 
savory forcemeat balls and slices of lemon. 

Roasted Breast op Veal. 
If the sweetbread is retained, skewer it to the back; season and 
cover with a buttered pajier. Put it into a moderate oven and 
baste liberally till it is done. When it is roasted about an hour and 
a half, remove tlie paper, flour the joint and let it brown. Serve 
on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. Garnish with sliced 



240 MEATS. 

lemon. Forcemeat balls may be served with the veal and mnsh- 
room sauce sent to the table with it. Time, twenty minutes to the 
pound. 

Bubble and Squeak of Veal. 
Take the remains of cold veal; cut the meat into neat slices; fiy 
them in hot fat; put them where they will keep hot. Take some 
boiled spinach, fry this, also, and when it is quite hot, pile it on a 
dish and arrange the pieces of meat around it. Send tomato or any 
kind of piquant sauce to table with it. 

Veal Cake. 

Butter a plain earthenware dish or mold ; fill it with alternate layers 
of hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham, 
minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly and beaten to a smooth 
paste. Pour a spoonful or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, 
cover the pan closely and bake in a gentle oven. When done 
enough, press firmly into the mold, put a plate with a weight upon 
it, and let it remain untouched until cold. Turn it out, garnish 
with parsley, and serve for luncheon or supper. Time to bake, 
about one hour. 

Veal Scallop. 

Chop fine some cold veal, and put a layer in the bottom of a 
pudding dish, and season with pepper and salt. Next put a layer 
of finely powdered crackers, and strew some bits of butter over it 
and wet with a little milk; then more veal, seasoned as before, and 
another round of cracker crumbs with butter and milk. When the 
dish is full, Avet well with gravy or broth, and spread over all a thick 
layer of crackeiv seasoned with salt, wet into a paste with milk and 
8 beaten egg or two. and stick bits of butter thickly over it, and 
cover and bake a halt or tnree quarters of a hour; then remove the 
cover and brown nicely 

Calf's Head, Boiled. 
Take a ealf'ft head, cut it in two, and take out the brains; wash 
the head in several waters, and let it soak in warm water for a 



MEATS. 241 

quarter of an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, and when 
the water comeft to the boil, skim carefully; season when nearly- 
done. Half a head, without the skin, will require from an hour and 
a half to two hours. It must stew gently till tender. If you wish 
it full-dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yolk of an egg, 
and rub it over the head with a feather. Powder it with a season- 
ing of finely-minced or dried and powdered winter savory, thyme 
or sage, parsley, pepper and salt, and bread crumbs, and brown in 
the oven; when dry, pour melted butter over. You may garnish 
the dish with broiled rashers of bacon. 

Calf's Brains a la Ravigote. 
Wash the brains in several waters, and free them from skin and 
fibre; boil them for ten minutes in salt and water mixed with a 
tablespoonful of vinegar, and when they are firm, cut them in slices, 
dip them in a batter, and fry them to a light brown. Place them 
in a circle on a hot dish with a little fried parsley in the centre, and 
fiend ravigote sauce (^See Savory Sauces) to table with them. 
16 



CHAPTER XVII. 
iltu5l)room0. 







LTHOUGH mushrooms arc caton raw with salt 
and dry bread, the true flavor of mushrooms 
is greatly heightened })y cooking; and cook 
them how you may — a broil, a stew, or a fry, 
M'ith the simple addition of butter, salt, and 
pepx)er, they are excellent. There is one 
rule that should always be observed in what- 
ever mode they are cooked, and that is that 
they should be served up quickly and hot. 
Mushrooms may be either stewed, boiled, fried, or as a soup, 
prepared in the same manner as oysters. They are also used to 
flavor game and soups, meat gravies, sauces and catsups. The 
best mushrooms grow on uplands, or in high, open fields where 
good i)ure air is found. 

The following modes of cooking mushrooms may prove 
useful : 

Mushrooms au Geatin. 

Take twelve large mushrooms about two inches in diameter, 
pare the stalks, wash, and drain the mushrooms on a cloth; 
cut off jind chop the stalks. Put in a quart stewpan an 
ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour; stir over the 
fire for two minutes; then add one pint of broth; stir till 
reduced to half the quantity. Drain the- chopped stalks of 
the mushrooms thoroughly in a cloth; put them in the 
sauce with three tablespoonfuls of choppeil and washed 

842 



MUSHROOMS. 2-43 

parsley, one tablespoonful of chopped and washed whalot, two 
pinches of salt, a small pinch of pepper; reduce on a brisk fire for 
eight minutes, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a saute pan; set the 
mushrooms in, the hollow part upwards; fill them with the fine 
herbs, and sprinkle over them lightly a tablespoonful of raspings; 
put in a brisk oven for ten minutes and serve. 

Mushrooms a la Provencale. 
Take mushrooms of good size; remove the stems and soak them 
in olive oil; cut up the stems with a clove of garlic and some pars- 
ley; add meat of sausages, and two yolks of eggs to unite them; 
dish the mushrooms, and garnish them with the fo(rcemeat; sprinkle 
them with fine oil, and dress them in an oven, or in a four d* 

campagne. 

Mushrooms a la Creme. 

Trim and rub half a pint of button mushrooms, dissolve two 
ounces of butter rolled in flour in a stewpan, then put in the mush- 
rooms, a bunch of parsley, a teaspoonf ul of salt, half a teaspoonful 
each of white pepper and of powdered sugar, shake the pan round 
for ten minutes, then beat up the yolks of two eggs, with two 
tablespoonfuls of cream, and add by degrees to the mushrooms; ia 
two or three minutes you can serve them in the sauce. 

Baked Mushrooms. 

Peel the tops of twenty mushrooms; cut off a portion of the 

stalks, and wipe them carefully with a piece of flannel, dipped in 

salt; lay the mushrooms in a tin dish, put a small piece of butter 

on the top of each, and season them with pepper and salt. Set the 

•dish m the oven, and bake from twenty minutes to half an hour. 

When done, arrange them high in the centre of a very hot dish, 

pour the sauce round them and serve quickly and as hot as yoa 

possibly can. 

Breakfast Mushrooms. 

Clean a dozen or so of medium size; place two or three ounces of 
nice, clean beef-drippmg m the frying pan, and with it a table- 



214 MUSilliOOMS. 

spoonful or more of nice Ijccf gravy. Scl tlic p.'ui on ;i gentle fire, 
and as the (Irij)ping lueltH place in tlie niiislirooins, adding salt and 
pepper to taste. Fn a few ininutes they will be cooked, and being 
Hoaked in the gravy and served upon a hot i)late, will form a ca[)ital 
dish. In lluf absence of gravy, a soupcon of " extractuni carnis " 
may Iw. substituted. 

CURUIKI) MusimooMS. 
I'eel and remov(! the stems from a dish of full-grown nnishrooms, 
sprinkle with salt, and add a very little butter; stew them gently 
in a litthi good gravy or stock. Add four tablespoon fuls of cream, 
and oiu' teaspoonful of" curry })owder, j)reviously well mixed with 
two tcaspoonfids of wheat flour; mix carefully, and sei-ve on a hot 
dish, with hot toast and hot plates atten<lant. IVlind the "curry 
stuff" is goo<l, says an Indian friend, and not too much of it. The 
word "curry," by itself, it seems, bi'ing merely tlM> Tamul word for 
"meat." The large horse mushroom, whcTi half or three j)arta 
Ijrovvn, and currii'd in this fashion, will be found to be delicious. 

MUSIIUOOMK KN CaISSIC. 

I*eel the jnushrooms lightly, and cut them into pieces. Put them 
into cases of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, parsley, green 
onions, and shalots (^hopped uj), salt and ]>epper. Dress them OD 
the gridiron ovi'r a gentle (ire, and serve in the cases. 

MiTsuiiooM CAi'Kur. 
Mushroom catsu]) is more highly esteenu'd and more generally 
useful than any other. It. is best when made of large mushroom 
flaps, fully ripe, fresh, and ])erfectly dry — that is, gathered during 
dry Aveatlu^r. If this point is not attended to the catsuj) will not 
keeji. Do not, wash nor skin the mushrooms, but carefully remove 
any decayed, dirty, or worm-eaten i)ortions; cut off about half an 
inch from the end of the stalks, then break the rest into small 
pieces, ])ut them into an earthen jar, and strew three-fourths of a 
pound of salt amongst two gallons of mushrooms, scattering the 
liMger portions on top. Li-t them remain all night, and the next 



MUSHROOMS. 245 

day Btir thorn gontly with :i wooden Hpoon, and repeat this three 
tinicK :i (hiy for two days. At tlic end of that time pu* the jar into 
a cool oven for half an hour, then strain the liquid whieh Hows from 
th(Mn through a coarse eloth, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. 
Do not squeeze the niushrooitis. To every quart of the liquid put 
a quarter of an ounce cich of Jamaica ginger and black pepper, and 
a drachm of mace. Uoil again till the quantity is reduced one- 
Jialf. Pour it out, and let it stand until cool, then put it into per- 
fectly dry bottles, being careful to leave the sediment, which will 
have settled to the bottom, undisturbed. Seal the corks and keep 
in a cool, dry place. 

Mushrooms en Raoout. 
i»ut into a stew-pan a little slock, a small quantity of vmega^ 
parsley, and green onions chopped up, salt and spices. When tiiifi. 
is about to boil, the mushrooms Ix^ing cleaned, put them in. When 
done, remove them from the lire, and thicken with yolks of eggs. 

MifsiiitooMS wrni liAcoisr. 
Take some full-grown mushntoms, and having cleaned them, 
procure a few rasluirs of ni(;(! streaky bacon, and fry it in the usual 
manner. When nearly done, add a dozen or so of mushrooms, and 
fry them slowly until they are cooked. In this [jrocess they will 
absorb all the fat of the bacon, and with the addition of a little sal* 
and pepper, will form a most appetizing breakfast relish. 

MusiinooM Stkms. 
If young and fresh, make a capital dish when the supi)ly of 
mushrooms is limited. Rub them (piitc clean, and after washing 
them in salt and water, hYh-v, them to the thickness of a shilling, 
then place them in a sauce-pan with suni(tient milk to stew them 
tender; throw in a piece of butter and some Hour for thickenmg, 
and salt and pepper to taste. Serve ui)on a toast of brc^ad, in a hot 
dish, and add sipp<fts of toasted bread. This makes a light and 
very delicate supper dish, and is not bad sauce to a boiled fowl. 



246 MUSHROOMS. 

To Stew Mushrooms. 
Trim and rub clean a half pint large button mushrooms; put into 
a stew-pan two ounces of butter; shake over the fire until thor- 
oughly melted; put in the mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, half as 
much pepper, and a small piece of mace pounded; stew till the 
mushrooms are tender, then serve them on a hot dish. They are 
usually sent in as a breakfast dish, thus prepared in butter. 

To Pot Mushrooms. 

The small open mushrooms suit best for potting. Trim and rub 
them; put into a stew-pan a quart of mushrooms, three ounces of 
butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of Cayenne 
and mace mixed, and stew for ten or fifteen minutes, or till the 
mushrooms are tender; take them carefully out and drain them 
perfectly on a sloping dish, and when cold press them into small 
pots, and pour clarified butter over them, in which state they will 
keep for a week or two. If required to be longer preserved, put 
writing paper over the butter, and over that melted suet, which 
will effectually preserve them for many weeks, if kept in a dry, cool 
place. 

Mushrooms and Toast. 

Peel the mushrooms, arid take out the stems. Fry them over a 
quick fire. When the butter is melted take off the pan. Squeeze 
the juice of a lemon into it. Let the mushrooms fry again for some 
minutes. Add salt, pepper, spices, and a spoonful of water, in 
which a clove of garlic, having been cut into pieces, has soaked for 
half an hour; let it stew. When the mushrooms are done make a 
thickening of yolks of eggs. Pour the mushrooms on bread fried 
in butter, and laid in a dish ready for them. 

Mushrooms ok Toast. 
Put a pint of mushrooms into a stew-pan, with two ounces of 
butter rolled in flour; add a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
©f white pepper, a blade of mace powdered, and half a teaspoonful 



MUSHROOMS. 247 

grated lemon; stew till the butter is all absorbed, tben add as much 
white roux as will moisten the mushrooms; fry a slice of bread in 
butter, to fit the dish, and as soon as the mushrooms are tender 
serve them on the toast. 

To Pickle Mushrooms. 
Select a number of small, sound, pasture mushrooms, as nearly as 
possible alike in size; throw them for a few minutes into cold 
water; then drain them; cut off the stalks, and gently rub off the 
outer skin with a moist flannel dipped in salt; then boil the vin- 
egar, adding to each quart two ounces of salt, half a nutmeg sliced, 
a drachm of mace, and an ounce of white pepper-corns; put the 
mushrooms into the vinegar for ten minutes over the fire; then 
ipour the whole into small jars, taking care that the spices are 
equally divided; let them stand a day, then cover them. 

Another Method. 
In pickling mushrooms, take the buttons only, and while they are 
quite close, cut the stem off even with the gills, and rub them quite 
clean. Lay them in salt and water for forty-eight hours, and then 
add pepper and vinegar, in which black pepper and a little mace 
have been boiled. The vinegar must be applied cold. So pickled 
they will keep for years. 




CHAPTER XVIII. 

Ipoultnj. 

Thickex Saute, a la Maeexgo. 

H' )U should carefully pick and singe the chicken. 
Clean it with a wet towel, as washing 
takas away much of the nutriment. Cut the 
bird in pieces beginning with the wing. Cut 
a small piece of the breast out with the wing. 
This distributes the white meat with the the 
wing, otherwise the wing is a poor part. Kext 
cut off the wing side bone and then the legs, 
cutting the upper joint in two near the middle, 
and the lower the same, dividing the second joint, which many 
think the best part of the chicken. This is better than giving all 
the best meat to one person. Next cut through the ribs, first one 
side then the other, taking the breast bone off and cutting it in 
three equal parts, trimming off the ends of the rib bones. It will 
then be easy to remove the entrails. Then break the neck and 
cut the back bone in two pieces. Save the heart, liver and 
gizzard; cut out the little sand-bag from the latter, and remove 
it all, instead of splitting it open and leaving the skin. In remov- 
ing the gall take a part of the liver to make sure of no accident. 
Then place all these pieces in a saucepan moistened with salad 
oil. As soon as the chicken begins to be browned put in a 
tablespoonful of flour; stir together and let the whole 
become brown by cooking. Then cover the whole with 
hot water, and season well with salt and pepper. If too much 
salt should be added it may be counteracted by a little vinegar 
and sugar. If it is desired, olives or button onions may be 
added. If so, put them in when the hot water is pat in and cook 
slowly. After the flour and water are added, stirring is necessary, 

248 



POULTRY. 249 

and it should be done witli a flat wooden stick, which will not 
scratch the pan like metal. White pepper is better than black, as 
it is more digestible and has not the hard i)ieces of shell. An 
apple corer can be used to take the stones out of the olives, but a 
more economical instrument is a small sharp knife with which the 
olive can be peeled off the stone. The onions should be used whole, 
carefully relieved of the dry shell. When the chicken is sufticienlly 
cooked, add a glass of sherry or Madeira wine, but the wine should 
not be added until ready to serve. If the wine and olives are not 
used, you have a nice brown fricassee. Those chickens are the best 
which have small bones, short legs, and clean, white-looking flesh. 
Chickens with white legs should be boiled, those with black legs 
roasted. The flesh of chickens is generally considered more 
digestible than any other animal food. 

CapoN" Ranaque. 
Use a capon or nice chicken. Have it carefully picked, singed 
and wiped with a wet towel; cut off the legs just below the joint; 
split down the back, and take out the crop; then bone the capon^ 
which is done in this way: Cut down the middle of the back all the 
way; take out the crop, without breaking the skin of the neckj 
turn back the skin and cut the joint of the wing; then cut along 
close to the bone, until you have reached the leg joint, which twist 
out of joint where it joins the body; cut down the side until you 
have reached the edge of the breast bone, taking care not to cut 
the e'ntrails; then go up the other side of the chicken in the same 
manner that you came doAvn. Leave the leg and wing bones in; 
replace the bones taken out by stufting, and sew up the carcass. 
For boned chicken, remove all bones from the inside. To stuff a 
capon you can use enough fresh pork and veal, in equal quantity, 
chopped fine, to fill up the place in the carcass. For every pound 
of forcemeat use one glass of wine and one whole Qgg] one tea- 
spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of mixed ground spice, one-half 
saltspoonful of pepper. In the place of the spices you can use 
sweet herbs. You can use in the place of this forcemeat a nice 



250 POULTRY. 

stuffing of bread, "When finished bake slowly about two hours. 
To make the stuffing use fresh jiork and veal in equal quantities, 
chopped fine. If you have a five-j^ound chicken three pounds of 
forcemeat will be enough. Make two-thirds the weight of the 
chicken. Lean veal and lean pork, both raw. For one pound of 
forcemeat use one glass of wine — sherry or Madeira, one egg, one 
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonf ul of mixed ground spice, and one- 
half saltspoonful of pepper. The spice may be cloves, allspice, and 
nutmeg, and any sweet herb you wish — thyme, summer savory, or 
sweet marjoram. A regular boned chicken should be boiled, stuffed 
and sewed up. For the Ranaque, stuff, then sew up. Leave long 
ends in sewing so they will be easy to remove when it is done. 
Push the legs up to the breast as far as possible. Run a trussing 
needle through with a cord attached, which tie around the chicken. 
Then run a cord through the breast and wings, and pass it under 
the back and tie. A skewer may be used. Bake slowly two hours. 
It may be well to tie a slice of pork over the breast. 

Fricasseed Chicken. 
Cut up chicken, and boil with a slice or two of bacon in sufficient 
water to cover till quite tender. Fry some pork, and, when cooked a 
little, drain the chicken and fry with the pork till brown. Then take 
out and pour the broth into the frying pan with the pork fat, and 
make a gravy thickened with broAvned flour, season well with butter, 
and put the chicken into the gravy. Be sure and have the fat quite 
hot when the chicken is put in, so it will brown readily. 

Chicken Pie. 
Take two full-grown chickens, or more, if they are small, disjoint 
them and cut the backbone, etc., as small as convenient; boil them 
with a few slices of salt pork in Avater enough to cover them; let 
them boil quite tender, then take out the breast' bone. After they 
boil and the scum is taken off, put in a little onion, cut very fine, 
not enough to taste distinctly, but just enough to flavor a little; 
rub some parsley very fine, when dry, or cut fine when green — this 



POULTRY. 251 

gives a pleasant flavor. Season well with pepper and salt, and a 
few ounces of good fresh butter. When all is cooked well, have 
liquid enough to cover the chicken; then beat two eggs and stir in. 
some sweet cream. Line a five-quart pan with a crust made like; 
soda biscuit, only more shortening, put in the chicken and liquid, 
then cover with a crust the same as the lining. Bake till the crust 
is done, and you will have a good chicken pie. 

Feyixg Chickens. 

Many people prefer chickens fried to any other way. Dissect, 
salt, and pepper; roll the pieces in flour and fry in lard. When, 
done, pour off the lard and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
cup of cream, a little flour, and some parsley, scalded and chopped, 
fine for the sauce. 

C&TCKEsr Salad. 

Cut the meat from two chickens, or one, if you want a small dish. 
Add an equal quantity of shred lettuce, after you have cut the 
chickens into narrow shreds two inches long; stir in a bowl. Pre- 
pare a dressing thus: Beat the yolks of two eggs, salt lightly, and 
beat in, a few drops at a time, four tablespoonfuls of oil; then, as 
gradually, three teaspoonfuls of hot vinegar, and half a teaspoonful 
of best celery essence. The mixture should be thick as cream; pour 
over the chicken, mix well and lightly; put into a salad dish and 
lay sections of two hard-boiled eggs on top, with a chain of sliced 
whites around the edge. 

Chicken Croquettes. 
One cold, boiled chicken, chopped fine; then take a pint of sweet 
milk, and when the milk is boiled, stir into it two large tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, made thin in a little cold milk; after the flour is well 
cooked with the milk, put in a piece of butter the size of an egg, 
add salt and Cayenne pepper; stir all well into the chicken; roll up 
with your hand, and dip first into an egg beaten up, then into» 
crackers rolled fine, and fry in hot lard, or lard and butter. 



■252 POULTRY. 

Baked Chicken. 
Split open in the back, season with salt and pepper, and plenty of 
butter; pour a little water into the pan, and, while baking, baste 
often, turning the chicken so as to nicely brown all over. When 
done, take up the chicken; thicken the gravy with a little flour 
and serve in a gravy boat. Chickens are nice stuffed and baked in 
■the same manner as turkey. 

A Nice Wat to Cook Chicken. 
Cut the chicken up, put into a pan, and cover with water; let it 
stew as usual. When done, make a thickening of cream and flour. 
Add butter, pepper and salt. Have ready a nice shortcake, baked 
and cut in squares, rolled thin as for crust. Lay the cakes on the 
dish, and pour the diicken and gravy over tliem while hot. 

Chicken Pfbding. 
Cut up the chickens and stow until tender. Then take them 
from the gravy, and siiread on a fla; dish to cool, having first well- 
seasoned them Avith butter, p pper and salt. Make a batter of one 
quart of milk, three cups of flour, three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, one-half teaspoonf ul of soda, one teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar, and a little salt. Butter a pudding dish and put a layer of the 
•chicken at the bottom, and then a cup f the batter over it. Pro- 
ceed till the dish is full. The batter must form the crust. Bake 
an hour, and serve the thickened gravy in a gravy boat. 

Jellied Chicken or Veal. 
Boil a chicken in as little water as possible, until the meat falls 
from the bones; chop rather fine, and season with pepper and salt; 
put in a mold a layer of the chopped meat and then a layer of 
hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices; then layers of meat and egg alter- 
nately until the mold is nearly full; boil down the liquor left in the 
pot one-half; while warm, add one-quarter of an ounce of gelatine, 
and wlum dissolved, pour into the mold over the meat. Sot in a 
•cool place over night, to jelly. 



POULTRY. 253; 

ScAT.T,oPKi> Chicken. 
Mince cold chicken and a little lean ham quite fine; season with 
pepper and a little salt; stir all together, add some sweet cream, 
enough to make it quite moist, cover with crumbs, put it into 
scallop shells or a flat dish, put a little butter on top, and brown 
before the fire or front of a range. 

Chicken Pot-Pie. 

Cut and joint a large chicken; cover with water, and let it boil 
gently until tender; season with salt and pepper, and thicken the 
gravy with two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth in a piece of 
butter the size of an egg. Have ready a nice, light, bread dough; 
cut with a biscuit-cutter about an inch thick; drop this into the 
boiling gravy, having previously removed the chicken to a hot 
platter; cover, and let it boil from one-half to three-quarters of an 
hour. To ascertain whether they are done or not, stick into one of 
them a fork, and if it comes out clean, they are done. Lay on the 
platter with the chicken, pour over the gravy, and serve. 

Broiled Chicken. 

Only young, tender chickens are nice broiled. After cleaning 
and washing them, split down the back, wipe dry, season with salt 
and pepper, and lay them inside down on a hot gridiron over a bed 
of bright coals. Broil until nicely browned and well cooked 
through, watching and turning to prevent burning. Broil with 
them a Tittle salt pork, cut in thin slices. After taking them from 
the gridiron, work into them plenty of butter, and sei've, garnished 
with the pork, slices of lemon and parsley. 

Ducks a la Francaise. 
Lard the breast of a duck with bacon and put it in the oven for 
an hour, and then put it iuto a stewpan of gravy previously pre- 
pared in the following manner: To one pint of beef gravy add twa- 
dozen chestnuts, roasted and peeled; two onions, sliced and fried 
in butter; two sage leaves, and a sprig of thyme; pepper and salt.. 



'254 POULTRY. 

When the duck has stewed till tender put it on a dish, add a 
quarter of a pint of port wine to the gravy, a little butter, and flour 
to thicken; pour it over the duck and serve. 

Pressed Chicken, 

Boil two chickens until dropping to pieces; pick meat off bones, 

taking out all skin; season with salt and pepper; put in deep tin 

mold; take one-fourth box of gelatine, dissolved in a little warm 

water, add to liquid left in kettle, and boil until it begins to 

thicken; then pour over the chicken and set away to cool; cut in 

slices for table. 

Duck a la Mode. 

Take a couple of ducks, divide them into quarters and lay them 
in a stewpan with a sprinkling of flour, pepper and salt. Put a 
large lump of butter divided into pieces at the bottom of the stew- 
pan and fry the ducks until they are a nice light-brown color. 
Remove the fjying-pan and put in half a pint of gravy and a glass 
of port; sprinkle more flour and add a bunch of sweet herbs, two or 
three shallots minced fine, an anchovy, and a little Cayenne when 
the ducks have stewed in the gravy till tender, put them on a dish, 
take out the herbs, clear off any fat, and serve with the sauce 

thrown over them. 

Baked Duck. 

To cook a duck satisfactorily boil it first, until tender; this can 
be determined by trying the wing, as that is always a tough part of 
a fowl. When tender take it out, rinse it in clean water, stuff and 
put it in the oven for about three-quarters of an hour, basting it 
often. 

Beaised Ducks. 

Prepare the ducks exactly like chickens for the dressing, which 
should be seasoned with butter, sage and onions, as well as salt and 
pepper. Put them in a pot with some chopped onions, a little 
butter and water enough to steam. Let them stew gently with the 
lid on, and then let the Avater evaporate and then brown them, 
^erve with green pease and jelly. 



POULTRY. 255 

Braise ob' Duck with Turnip, 

Prepare a domestic duck as for roasting. Line a small pan, just 
large enough for the duck, with slices of bacon; strew over the 
bottom a little parsley, powdered herbs, and lemon peel; lay in the 
duck, and add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stuck with a few cloves 
and a dozen whole peppers; cover with stock and add a tablespoon- 
ful of strong vinegar; baste frequently and simmer until done. 
Fry some slices of turnip in butter to a light-brown, drain and add 
them to the stewpan after removing the duck, which should be kept 
hot. When the turnips are tender remove them, strain the gravy, 
thickening if necessary with a little flour or arrow-root; put the 
duck on a dish, turn the hot gravy over it, and garnish with the 
turnips. 

Fricasseed Duck. 

Most people think a duck must be roasted, but try this once 
instead. Cut a mallard or red duck into four quarters; chop an 
onion fine, and put all into a pot; cover with water, and add more 
as it boils away. Stir a little celery seed, or celery chopped up fine, 
three or four strips of salt pork, and when nearly done add a table- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Build a mound of mashed potatoes 
around your dish and carefully lay the contents of the fricassee in 
the center. Season with salt and pepper. This makes a juicy and 
delicious dish. 

Mock Duck. 

Take a round of beefsteak; salt and pepper; prepare a dressing 
as for turkey and lay it in the steak; sew up; lay two or three slices of 
fat pork upon it and roast; baste often and you cannot tell it from 
duck. 

Minced Fowls. 

Hemove from the bones all the flesh of either cold, roast or boiled 
fowls. Clean it from the skin, and keep covered from the air until 
ready for use. Boil the bones and skin with three-fourths of a pint 
of water until reduced quite half. Strain the gravy and let cooii 



256 POULTRY. 

Next, having first skimmed off the fat, put it into a clean saucepan 
with a half cup of cream, three ounces of butter, well mixed with 
one tablespoonful of flour. Keep these stirred until they boil. 
Then put in the fowl, finely minced with three hard-boiled eggs, 
chopped, and sufticient salt and pepper to season. Shake tlie mince 
over the fire until just ready to boil. Dish it on hot toast, and 
serve. 

To Carve Roast Fowl. 
Insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the 
bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if the bird is not 
old, the joint will give way. The wing is next to be broken off, 

and this is done in the direction 
of A to B, only dividing the joint 
with a knife. The four quarters 
having been removed in this way, 
take off the merry-thought and 
the neck bones; these last are to be removed by putting the knife 
in at C and pressing it, when they will break off fi'om the part that 
sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the 
fowl by cutting through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite 
down to the tail. Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife 
into the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on 
raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from 
you and take off very neatly the two sidesmen, which completes 
the operation. The breast and Avings are considered the best parts 
of a roast foAvl, but in young fowls the legs are most juicy. In the 
case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast. 

Croquettes. 
Chop fine any cold pieces of cooked meat or chicken, or whatever 
you may wish to use, first removing all fat, bone, etc.; add half the 
quantity of fine bread crumbs, one egg, pepper and salt; make into 
balls and cook in a buttered spider; serve hot. 





rOULTIlY. 257 

To Carvk Roast Goose. 
Begin by turning the neck end of a goose toward you, and cut- 
ting the whole breast iu long slices, from one wing to another. 
(See the lines A B.) To tak' off th' le. , insert the fork in the 
small end of the bone, pressing it to the body; put the knife in at 
A, turn the leg back, and if 
the bird be young it will 
easily come away; if old, we 
will not answer for it. To 
take off the wing, insert the 
fork in the small end of the 
pinion, and press it close to the body; put the knife in at B and 
divide the joint. When the leg and wing are off one side, attack 
those on the other; but, except when the company is very large, it 
is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower 
side-bones, as well as the two side-bones of the wings, may be cut 
off; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast and thighs, after 
being separated from the drumstick. Serve a little of the seasoning 
from the inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at C. 
Should there be no stuffing, a glass of wine, a little orange gravy 
or vinegar, may be poured into the body of the goose at the open- 
icg made at the apron by the carvei*. 

To Boil Goose. 
Pick and singe a goose carefully. Let it soak in lukewarm milk 
ind water for eight or ten hours. Stuff and truss it securely; put 
it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it; bring 
to a boil, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Send good 
ouion sauce to the table with it. Time, from an Jiour to an hour 
and a half after it has boiled. 

Roast Goose. 
Pluck the goose, carefully remove the quill-sockets and singe off 

"tile hairs; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long 
17 



258 POULTRY. 

enough to turn over. After drawing, wash and wipe the bird botK 
inside and out, and cut off the feet and pinions at the first joint; 
pull out the throat and tie the end securely; beat the breast-bone 
flat with a rolling-pin; draw the legs up closely, and put a skewer 
through them and through the body; cut off the end of the vent 
and make a hole in the skin large enough for the rump to go 
through. This will prevent the seasoning from escaping. Make a 
stuffing of bread crumbs, onions and potatoes cut fine; season with 
pepper, salt, sage, and butter the size of an egg; fill the goose and 
tie down the wings; roast two hours and a half. Boil the liver and 
heart and add to the gravy, which must be thickened with flour. 
Send to table with apple sauce and mashed potatoes. 

Stuffing with Sage and Onion. 
Boil four large onions until tender; drain them from the water, 
and mince them finely with four resh sage leaves, or six dry ones, 
four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a tea- 
spoonful of made mustard, and a teaspoonful of moist sugar, one- 
half teaspoonful of pepper, a large ipple, pared and cored, and a 
quarter of a nutmeg, grated, m y be added, if approved. 

Turkey. 

The turkey is highly esteemed and usually commands a high 
price, especially at Christmas, when most extravagant prices are 
often demanded and btained for large and well-fed birds. Turkeys 
are in season from September to March, and are at theii- best in 
December and January. If the weather is suitable hey should be 
hung fully a week before being dressed. In very cold weather 
care must be taken that they are not frozen in hanging, and if this 
is the case, they should be brought into a warm place for some 
Lours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. The hen bird is 
considered the best. 

" The turkey is the largest and, if not the most delicate, at least 
the most savory, of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular 
advantage of assembling around it every class of society. When 



POULTRY. 259 

our farmers regale themselves on a winter's evening, what do we 
see roasting before the kitchen fire, close to which the white-clothed 
table is set ? A turkey. When the useful tradesman or the hard- 
worked artist invites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish 
is he expected to set before them ? A nice roast turkey, stuffed 
"with sausage meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest 
^astronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to 
dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, 
what is looked out for at the second course? A truffled turkey. 
In my ' Secret Memoirs ' I find sundry notes recording that on many 
occasions its restorative juice has illuminated diplomatic faces of 
the highest eminence." 

Caeving op Tuekey, 
The breast of a turkey is so large that slices taken neatly from it 
and from the wings generally suffice for all the company. They 
should be taken from each side alternately, beginning close to the 
"wings, and a little forcemeat and a small portion of liver should be 
served to each guest. When it is necessary that the legs should be 
used, they should be separated from the body with a sharp knife 
and cut in slices, but it should be remembered that they, with the 
gizzard, will make an excellent devil. 

Boiled Tuekey or Capon". 
When the poultry is plucked quite clean and singed, see that it is 
neatly trussed, and, before finally closing the vent, stuff the bird 
inside with as many raw oysters of the best quality as can be pro- 
cured, adding to the same a lump of fresh butter, and a portion of 
bread crumbs from a stale loaf. Remove the turkey or capons into 
a clean cloth, fold them up carefully, place them into a saucepan 
of cold water, and let them boil over a moderately-heated fire until 
they are thoroughly done. Have a stick of white blanched celery 
at hand and chop it up very small; place it in a quart of new milk 
in a saucepan, and let it boil gently with a few black pepper corns, 
tUl the quantity is reduced to one pint; keep stirring the esculent 



260 POULTRY. 

up with the milk until it assumes the character of a consistent pulp. 
Thicken the whole with the yolk of a fi'esh egg, well beaten up, 
with half a cup of fresh cream. Have upon the table a sauce-boat 
of strong veal gravy. 

Roast Turkey. 
A young turkey, weighing not more than eight or nine pounds, 
is the best. Wash and clean thoroughly, wiping dry, as moisture 
will spoil the stuffing. Take one small loaf of bread grated line, 
rub into it a piece of butter the size of an egg, one small teasj^oon- 
ful of pepper and one of salt; sage, if liked. Rub all together, and 
fill only the breast of the turkey, sewing up so that the stuffing 
cannot cook out. Always put the giblets under the side of the 
fowl, so they will not dry up. Rub salt and pepper on the outside; 
put into dripping-pan with one cup of water, basting often, and tui'n- 
ing it till brown all over. Bake about three hours. Have left in the 
chopping-bowl a little stuffing; take out the giblets and chop fine. 
After taking out the turkey, put in a large tablespoonful of flour; 
stir until brown. Put the giblets into a gravy-boat, and pour ove» 
tliem the gravy. 

Roast Turkey, No. 2. 
Rinse out the turkey well with soda and water, then with salt, 
lastly with clear water. Stuff with a dressing made of bread 
crumbs, wet up with butter and water and season to your taste. 
Stuff the craw and tie up the neck. Fill the body and sew up the 
vent. We need hardly say that the strings are to be clipped and 
removed after the fowl has been roasted. Tie the legs to the lower 
part of the body that they may not " sprawl " as the sinews shrink. 
Put into the dripping-pan, pour a cup of boiling water over it, and 
roast, basting often, allowing about ten minutes' time for every 
pound. Be careful not to have your oven too hot — especially for 
the first hour or so. The turkey would, otherwise, be dry and 
blackened on the outside aid raw within. Much of the perfection, 
of roasting poultry depends upon basting faithfully. Boil the 



POULTRY. 261 

giblets tender in a little water. When the turkey is done, set it 
where it will keep warm; skim the gravy left in the pan; add a 
little boiling water; thicken slightly with browned flour; boil up 
once and add the giblets minced fine. Season to taste; give another 
boil, and send to table in a gravy-boat. 

Boiled Turkey. 
Stuff the turkey as for roasting. A very nice dressing is mada 
by chopping half a pint of oysters and mixing them with bread 
crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, thj^me, and wet with milk or water. 
Baste about the turkey a thin cloth, the inside of which has been 
dredged with flour, and put it to boil in cold water with a tea- 
spoonful of salt in it. Let a large turkey simmer for three hours. 
Skim while boiling. Serve with oyster sauce, made by adding to a 
cup of the liquor in which the turkey was boiled the same quantity 
of milk and eight oysters chopped fine; season with minced parsley; 
stir in a spoonful of rice or wheat flour wet with cold milk; a table- 
spoonful of butter. Boil up once and pour into a tureen. 

Turkey Dressed with Oysters. 
For a ten-pound turkey take two pints of bread crumbs, half a 
cup of butter cut in bits (not melted), one teaspoonful of powdered 
thyme or summer savory, pepper, salt, and mix thoroughly. Rub 
the turkey well inside and out with salt and pepper, then fill with 
first a spoonful of crumbs, then a few well-drained oysters, using 
half a can for a turkey. Strain the oyster liquor and use to baste 
the turkey. Cook the giblets in the pan, and chop fine for the 
gravy. A fowl of this size will require three hours in a moderate 
oven. 

Deviled Turkey. 

The legs, back, gizzard and rump of cold dressed turkey may be 
used for this dish. Score the meat along in a cross at regular dis- 
tances, three-quarters of an inch apart, and three-quarters of an 
inch deep. Rub into the gashes a well-mixed seasoning made of a 
saltspoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 



262 POULTRY. 

saltspoonful of Cayenne, and the strained juice of a lemon, an5 
cover with freshly-made mustard. Brush the pieces of meat over 
with butter or oil and broil over a clear fire till they are brown and 
crisp without being at all burnt, and turn them over that they may 
be equally done on both sides. Send to table on hot dish with 
little pieces of butter on them. Dry toast may be served as an 
accompaniment. The devil will be all the more savory if it is pre- 
pared some hours before it is broiled. If liked, half a clove of 
garlic may be minced and mixed with the seasoning. 

Turkey Scallop. 

Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. 
Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bottom of a buttered dish, 
moisten them with a little milk, then put in a layer of turkey with 
some of the filling, and cut small pieces of butter over the top; 
sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of bread crumbs, 
and so on until the dish is nearly full; add a little hot water to the 
gravy left from the turkey, and pour over it. Then take two eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a little salt, and 
cracker crumbs as much as will make it thick enough to spread on 
with a knife, put bits of butter over it, and cover with a plate. 
Bake three-quarters of an hour. About ten minutes before serving, 
remove the plate and let it brown. 

Plain Stuffing. 

Take stale bread, cut off all tlio crust, rub very fine and pour 
over it as much melted butter as will make it crumble in your 
hands; salt and pepper to taste. 

Apple Stuffing. 

Take half a pound of the pulp of tart apples which have been 
baked or scalded; add two ounces of bread crumbs, some powdered 
sage, a finely-shred onion; season well with Cayenne pepper. For 
roast goose, duck, etc. 



POULTRY. 263 

Potato Stuffing. 
Take two-thirds bread and one-third boiled potatoes, grated, 
batter size of an egg, pepper, salt, one egg and a little ground sage; 
mix thoroughly. 

Chestnut Stuffing. 

Boil the chestnuts and shell them; then blanch them and boil 
until soft; mash them fine and mix with a little sweet cream, some 
bread crumbs, pepper and salt. For turkey. 

For other stufiings, see " Forctmaaijo,''' 



CHAPTER XIX. 

pickles. 




ANY peojjle consider it mucli cheaper to buy 
their j^ickles than to make them. Neverthe- 
xless, there is always a certain amount of 
satisfaction in using home-made j)reparatious, 
as by this means the quality of the article can 
be assured beyond all question, and many 
^ ladies take great pride in their store of home- 
.made pickles. A great outcry was raised 
^ some years ago about the unwholesomeness of 
~ "^" i^ickles, and attention was called to the fact 
that most of those ordinarily sold, were positively x^ernicious, 
because the vinegar used in making them was boiled in copper 
vessels. This evil has now been, to a great extent, remedied; 
and it may be reasonably assumed that pickles which are sold by 
respectable dealers have been properly prepared. At the same 
time, for safety's sake, the rule should be laid down that all 
pickles which are beautifnl and brilliant in color and appearance 
should be avoided, as this is a certain sign that the vinegar used 
has been boiled in a metal pan. In making pickles, care must be 
taken that tlie vegetables and fruit used for the purjDOse are pro- 
cured at the right season, that they are perfectly sound, not over- 
rii3e, and have been gathered on a dry day. They should be 
trimmed and wiped before they are used, and not- washed, unless 
they are afterwards to be partially boiled or soaked. The vinegar 
must be of the best quality. AYliite wine vinegar is generally 
recommended, for the sake of the appearance, but it is not as 

264 



PICKLES. 2G5 

wholesome as the best cider vinegar. Metal utensils should never 
be used in making pickles, as the vinegar acting upon the metal 
produces a poison. Enameled or stone vessels and wooden spoons 
should therefore be used; and the best method that can be adopted 
is to put the vinegar into a stone jar, and heat it on a stone or hot 
hearth. Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, or unglazed earthen 
jars, and should be closely corked, and the corks sealed down, 
or covered with wet bladder. They should be stored in a dry 
place. As the vinegar becomes absorbed more should be added, as 
it is important that the vegetables should be covered at least two 
inches above the surface with vinegar. If any of the vinegar is 
left after the pickle is used, it should be boiled up with fresh spices, 
and bottled for flavoring sauces, etc. It should be remembered 
that to boil vinegar is to decrease its strength. If it is wished to 
hasten the preparation of the pickles, partially boil the vegetables 
in brine and let them cool and get quite dry before the vinegar ia 
poured over them. 

Pickled Artichokes, 

Boil your artichokes in strong salt and water for two or three 
minutes; lay on a hair sieve to drain; when cold, lay in narrow- 
topped jars. Take as much white wine vinegar i%3, will cover the 
artichokes, and boil it with a blade or two of niace, some root 
ginger, and a nutmeg grated fine. Pour it on hot, seal and put 
away for use. 

Pickled Butternuts and Walnuts. 

Gather them when soft enough to be pierced by a pin; lay them 
in brine five days, changing this twice in the meantime; drain, and 
wipe them with a coarse cloth; pierce each by running a large 
needle through it, and lay in cold water for six hours. To each 
gallon of vinegar allow a cup of sugar, three dozen each of cloves 
and black peppers, half as much allspice, and a dozen blades of 
mace. Boil five minutes; pack the nuts in small jars and pour over 
them scalding hot. Repeat this twice within a week; tie up and 
set away. They will be good to eat in a month. 



266 PICKLES. 

Pickled Beans. 
The beans should be gathered young. Place them In a strong- 
brine of salt and water; when turning yellow, which will be in a 
day or two, remove them and wipe them dry. Boil the vinegar 
with a little mace, whole pepper, and ginger (two ounces of pepper 
and one ounce each of ginger and mace to each quart of vinegar); 
pour this over the beans. A small bit of alum, or a teaspoonful of 
soda will bring back the color. Cover them to keep in the steam 
and reboil the vinegar the next day; throw over hot as before. 
Cover, but do not tie down till cold. 

Pickled Beets. 

Take the beets, cleanse and boil two hours. When cold peel 

and slice, put into a jar and cover with vinegar prepared in the 

following manner: Boil half an ounce each of clones, pepper-corns, 

mace and ginger in a pint of vinegar, when cold add another pint. 

Pickled Bkocoll 

Choose the finest, whitest and closest vegetables before they are 
quite ripe. Pare off all green leaves and the outsides of the stalks. 
Parboil them in well-salted water. When drained and dry pull ofli 
the branches in convenient sized pieces and put them into a jar of 
pickle prepared as for onions. Time to parboil, four or fiv& 
minutes. 

Bottled Pickles. 

Wash and wipe small cucumbers; put into a stone jar and covep 
with salt — allowing a pint of salt to a half bushel of cucumbers — 
and pour over them boiling water enough to cover. Place a gallon 
at a time on the stove, cover with vinegar, and add a lump of alum 
about the size of a hickory nut. Put on the stove in another kettle 
a gallon of the very best cider vinegar, to which add half a pint of 
brown sugar; have bottles cleansed and placed to heat on stove in 
a vessel of cold water; also have a cup of heated sealing-wax. 
Have spices prepared in separate dishes as follows: Green and red 



PICKLES. 267 

peppers sliced in rings; horse-radish, roots washed, scraped and cut 
in small pieces; black and yellow mtlstard seed if liked, each pre- 
pared by sprinkling with salt and pouring on some boiling water, 
which let stand for fifteen minutes and then draw oif ; stick of 
cinnamon broken into pieces and a few cloves. When pickles come 
to boiling point, take out and pack in bottles, mixing with them the 
spices. Put in a layer of pickles, then a layer of spices, shaking 
the bottles occasionally so as to pack tightly. When full, cover 
with the boiling hot vinegar from the other kettle (using a bright 
funnel and tin cup), going over them a second time and filling up, 
in order to supply shrinkage, for the pickles must be entirely 
covered with vinegar. Put in the corks, which should fit very 
snugly; lift each bottle and dip the corked end in the hot sealing- 
wax; proceed in this manner with each bottle, dipping each a 
second time into the wax so that they may be perfectly secure. 
Glass cans, the covers of which have become defective, can be used 
by supplying corks. Pickles prepared in this way ax-e superior to 
imported pickles. 

Maey's Pickled Blackbereies. 
Three quarts blackberries, one quart vinegar, one quart sugar. 
No spice is required; put all together at the same time into your 
kettle and boil ten or fifteen minutes. After standing a few weeks 
they are very nice. 

To Put up Cucumbers ix Brine. 

Leave at least an inch of stem to the cucumbers, and wash well in 
cold water. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear 
an egg; put your cucumbers in this as you gather them each day 
from the vines. Cut a board so as to fit inside of your barrel; bore 
holes here and there through it, and put this board on the cucum- 
bers with a weight suflicient to keep it down. Each day take off 
the scum that rises. When wanted for use, take out what is 
necessary and soak them two or three days, or until the salt is out 



268 PICKLES. 

of them, and then pour boiling spiced vinegar over the.n. A red 
pepper or two is an improvement if one likes hot pickles. 

Pickled Cabbage. 

Select solid heads, slice very fine, put in a jar, then cover with 
boiling water; when cold, drain off the water, and season with 
grated horse radish, salt, equal parts of black and red pejjper, cinna- 
mon and whole cloves. 

Pickled Cauliflower. 

Choose such as are firm, yet of their full size; cut away all the 
leaves and pare the stalks; pull away the flowers in bunches, steep 
in brine two days, then drain them, wipe them dry, and put therd 
in hot pickle, or merely infuse for three days three ounces of curry 
powder in every quart of vinegar. 

Pickled Caulifloaver, No. 2, 
These should be sliced and salted for two or three days, then 
drained, and spread upon a dry cloth before the fire for twenty- 
four hours; after which they are put into a jar, and covered with 
piced vinegar. 

Picked Cabbage, No. 2. 

Slice red cabbage very thin; put on it a little coarse salt, and let 
it rest twenty-four hours to drain; add sliced onions, if you like 
them. Boil four spoonfuls pepper, and four of allspice in a quarfc 
of vinegar, and pour it over. 

Pickled Cucumbers. 
Wash with care your cucumbers, and place in jars. Make a 
weak brine (a handful of salt to a gallon and a half of water). 
When scalding hot, turn over the cucumbers and cover; repeat this 
'.process three mornings in succession, taking care to skim thor- 
oughly. On the fourth day have ready a porcelain kettle of 
winegar, to which has been added a piece of alum the size of a 
valnut. When scalding hot, put in as many cucumbers as may be 
'overed with the vinegar; do not let them boil, but skim out as 



PICKLES. 269 

soon as scalded through, and reijlace with others, adding evjli lim« 
a small piece of alum. When this process is through, throw out 
the vinegar, and replace with good cider or white wine vinegar; add 
spices, mustard seed and red pepper. Sort the pickles and placff 
them in stone or glass jars, turn over the hot spiced vinegar; seal 
and put away the jars not wanted for immediate use. Pickles thus 
prepared are fine and crisp at the expiration of a year. Those that 
are kept in open mouth jars may be covered with a cloth, whicb 
will need to be taken off and rinsed occasionally. 

Chow-Chow. 

Two quarts of tomatoes, two white onions, half-dozen green pep- 
pers, one dozen cucumbers, two heads of cabbage, all chopped fine; 
let this stand over night; sprinkle a cup of salt in it. In the morn- 
ing drain off the brine, and season Avith one tablespoonful of celery 
seed, one ounce of turmeric, half teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, 
one cup of brown sugar, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of all^ 
spice, ono ounce of black pepper, one-quarter ounce cloves, vinegar 
enough to cover, and boil two hours. 

Chow-Chow, No. 2. 

Two heads of cabbage, two heads of cauliflower, one dozen 
cucumbers, six roots of celery, six peppers, one quart of small white 
onions, two quarts of green tomatoes; cut into small pieces and boil 
each vegetable separately until tender, then strain them. Two 
gallons of vinegar, one-fourth pound of mustard, one-fourth poun(i 
of mustard seed, one pot of French mustard, one ounce of cloves, 
two ounces of turmeric; put the vinegar and spices into a kettle 
and let them come to a boil; mix the vegetables and pour over the 
dressing. 

Pickled Cherries. 

Take the largest and ripest red cherries, remove the stems, have 
ready a large glass jar, fill it two-thirds full with cherries, and fill 
«p to the top with best vinegar; keep it well covered and no boil-> 



270 PICKLES. 

ing or spice is necessary, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and 
the cherries will not shrivel. 

French Pickles. 

One peck of green tomatoes, sliced, six large onions, sliced; 
sprinkle over them one cup of salt; let them stand over night; in 
the morning drain and boil for fifteen minutes in two parts water 
and one part vinegar; drain again; take two quarts vinegar, one 
pound sugar, one tablespoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and all- 
spice; boil together for fifteen minutes and pour over the pickles. 

Pickled Grapes. 
Fill a jar with alternate layers of sugar and bunches of nice 
grapes, not too ripe; fill one-third full of good, cold vinegar and 
cover tightly. 

Pickled Grapes, No. 2. 
When grapes are not quite ripe, but dark colored, pick from the 
stem and wash; put in bottles; in a dish pirc sugar and vinegar, 
and boil a few minutes; add spices to taste; boil a few minutei^ 
pour over the grapes and seal up the bottles. 

To Harden Pickles. 
After they are taken out of the brine take a lump of alum and a 
horse-radish cut in strips; put this in the vinegar, and it will make 
them hard and crisp. When you wish to make a few cucumber 
pickles quick, take good cider vinegar; heat it boiling hot and pour 
it over them. When cool, they are ready for use. 

Lemox Pickles. 
Wipe six lemons, cut each into eight pieces; put on them a pouna 
of salt, six large cloves of garlic, two ounces of horse-radish, slicec 
thin, likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an 
ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard; to these put two 
quarts of vinegar. Boil a quarter of an hour in a well-tinned sauce- 
pan; or, which is better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling 



PICKLES. 271 

water; or set the jar on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, 

and stir it daily for six weeks; keep the jar close covered. Put it 

into small bottles. 

IVlAifGOEs OF Melons. 

Take green melons and make a brine strong enough to bear up 
an egg; then pour it boiling hot on the melons, keei^ing them under 
the brine; let them stand five or six days, slit them down on one 
side, take out all the seeds, scrape them well in the inside, and wash 
them clean; then take cloves, garlic, ginger, nutmeg and pepper; 
put all these proportionately into the melons, filling them up with 
mustard seed; then lay them into an earthern pot, and take one 
part of mustard seed and two parts of vinegar, enough to cover 
them, pouring it on scalding hot. Keep them closely covered. 

IiiiTATTOisr Pickled Mangoes. 
Large cucumbers, or small melons, are split so that a marrow- 
spoon may be introduced, and the seeds scooped out; they are then 
parboiled in brine strong enough to float an egg, di'ied on a cloth 
before the fire, filled with mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and 
then covered with spiced vinegar. Real mangoes are pickled in the 

same way. 

Pickled Nasturtiums. 

Soak for three days in strong salt and water; then strain and 
pour boiling vinegar over them, omitting the spice. Vinegar for 
any pickle should never be allowed to boil over one minute. 

Pickled Onions. 
Small silver-skinned onions; remove outer skin so that each one 
is white and clean; put them into brine that will float an egg for 
three days; bring vinegar to a boiling point, add a little mace and 
whole red peppers and pour hot over the onions, well drained from 
the brine. 

Pickled Onions, No. 2. 

Peel the onions and let them lie in strong salt and water nine 
4»ys, changing the water each day; then put them into jars and 



272 PICKLES. 

pour fresh salt and water on them, this time boiling hot; -when it is 
cold, take them out and put them on a hair sieve to drain, after 
which put them in wide-mouthed bottles and pour over them 
vinegar prepared in the following manner: Take white wine 
vinegar and boil it with a blade of mace, some salt and ginger in itf 
when cool, pour over the onions. 

Pickles. 
An excellent way to make pickles that will keep a year or raor» 
is to drop them into boiling hot water, but not boil them; let them 
stay ten minutes, wipe them dry, and drop them into cold, spiced 
vinegar, and they will not need to be put in salt and water. 

Stuffed Peppers. 
Chop a large cabbage finely, add one large spoonful grated horse- 
radish root and one ounce of white mustard seed; mix all this well; 
cut pieces out of the stem ends of large green peppers, large as a 
silver dollar; fill with the filling and sew the piece in again with 
cotton thread; then take vinegar enough to cover; spice with 
cloves, mace and allspice, whole; boil, and when nearly cold, pour 
over the peppers; no salt is to be used. Mangoes are pickled and 
stuffed in the same manner. 

Mixed Pickles. 
One quart raw cabbage chopped fine; one quart boiled beete 
chopped fine; two cups of sugar, tablespoonful of salt, one tea- 
epoonful red pepper, one cup of grated horse-radish; cover with 
cold vinegar and keep from the air. 

Mixed Pickles, No. 2, 
Three hundred small cucumbers, four green peppers sliced fine, 
two large or three small heads cauliflower, three heads of white 
cabbage sliced fine, nine large onions sliced, one large horse-radish, 
one quart green beans cut one inch long, one quart green tomatoes 
sliced; put this mixture in a pretty strong brine twenty-four hours; 
drain three hours; then sprinkle in one-fourth pound black and 



PICKLES. 273 

one-fourth pound of white mustard seed; also one tablespoonful 
black ground pepper; let it come to a good boil in just vinegar 
enough to cover it, adding a little alum; drain again and when 
cold put in one-half pint ground mustard; cover the whole with 
good cider vinegar; add turmeric enough to color if you like. 

India Pickles. 
Take three quarts of vinegar, quarter pound mustard, half 
ounce of black pepper, one ounce cloves, one ounce allspice, one 
ounce turmeric, one ounce ginger, one ounce Cayenne pepper, hand- 
ful of salt and the same of sugar; boil for twenty minutes. When 
cold put in the vegetables, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower cut up 
small, and cover closely. If the liquid should seem thin, boil again 
and add more mustard in three weeks after making. 

Pyper Pickles. 
Salt pickles down dry for ten days, soak in fresh water one day; 
pour off water, place in porcelain kettle, cover with water and 
vinegar and add one teaspoonful pulverized alum; set over night 
on a stove which had fire in it during the day; wash and put in a 
jar with cloves, allspice, pepper, horse-radish, onions or garlic; boil 
fresh vinegar and pour over all. Ready for use in two weeks. 

Ragan Pickles. 
Two gallons of cabbage, sliced fine, one gallon of chopped green 
tomatoes, twelve onions, also chopped, one gallon best vinegar, 
one pound of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of black pepper, half 
an ounce of turmeric powder, one ounce celery seed, one table- 
spoonful of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of ground cloves, 
one-quarter pound white mustard, and one gill of salt. Boil 
all together, stirring well, for two liours; take from the fire and 
add the spices, then put in air-tight jars; set in a cool, dry place, 
and this delicio«s pickle will keep all winter. 

Sweet Pickles. 
To every seven pounds of fruit allow tlii-ee and one-half pounds 



274 PICKLES. 

of sugar and one pint of cider vinegar, two ounces whole cloves, 
two of stick cinnamon. This is for peaches, pears, apples or musk 
melons. Peaches, pears, and apples should be pared only, not 
divided. Then in each stick two whole cloves. The cinnamon 
should be boiled in the vinegar. Put the prepared fruit into a jar 
and pour the vinegar, scalding hot, over it. Repeat this for three 
mornings. These sweet pickles will be found delicious, and will 
keep any length of time. The melons should be cut in strips as if 
to serve fresh on the table, and should not be too ripe. Simmer 
them thirty minutes slowly in the prepared vinegar, and they will 
need no further attention except to keep them closely covered, and 
they will keep good a year. 

Sweet Apple Pickle. 

Pickled sweet apples can be made by taking three pounds of 
sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one-half ounce of cinnamon, one-half 
ounce of cloves; pare the apples, leaving them whole; boil them in 
part of the vinegar and sugar until you can put a fork through 
them; take them out; heat the remainder of the vinegar and sugar 
and pour over them. Be careful not to boil them too long or they 
will break. 

Sweet Tomato Pickle. 

Seven pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, three and a 
lalf pounds of sugar, one pound of mace and cinnamon mixed, one 
ounce of cloves, one quart of vinegar. Mix all together and stew 
an hour. 

Green Tomato Pickles. 

Slice one peck of tomatoes into a jar and sprinkle a little salt 
over each layer; let them stand twenty-four hours, drain. off the 
liquor; put the tomatoes into a kettle with a teaspoonful of each 
of the following spices: Ground ginger, allspice, cloves, mace, 
cinnamon, a teaspoonful of scraped horse-radish, twelve small or 
three large red peppers, three onions, a cup of brown sugar; cover 
all with vinegar; boil slowly for three hours. 



PICKLES. 275 

PiCALILLI. 

One peck green tomatoes, one large cabbage, one dozen onions; 
add half pint salt; after the above have been chopped tine let it 
fitand over night; in the morning drain off the brine and scald in 
weak vinegar; drain t^is off and stir in gi-ound spices to suit the 
taste; add six red peppers and a little horse-radish root; pack in a 
•crock and cover with strong vinegar; a few small cucumbers put 
in whole are quite an addition. 

PiCKLETTE. 

Four large crisp cabbages chopped fine, one quart of onions 
■chopi^ed fine, two quarts of vinegar, or enough to cover the cabbage, 
two tablespoonf uls each of ground mustard, black pepper, cinnamon, 
turmeric, celery seed, and one of allspice, pulverized alum and mace. 
Pack the onions and cabbage in alternate layers with a little salt 
between them. Let them stand until next day. Then scald the 
vinegar, sugar and spices together and pour over the cabbage and 
onions. D'^ this three mornings in succession. On the fourth put 
i*ll together over the fire and heat to a boil; let them boil five 
mi-iutcs. When cold pack in small jars. It is fit for use as soon as 
^old and will keep well. 

Spiced Vinegar for Pickles Geiterallt. 

Bruise in a mortar two ounces black pepper, one ounce ginger, 
one-half ounce allspice, and one ounce salt. If a hotter pickle is 
desired, add one-ha?'; drachm Cayenne, or a few capsicums. For 
walnuts add also one ounce shallots. Put these in a stone jar, with 
a quart of vinegar, and cover them with a bladder wetted Avith the 
pickle, and over this a piece of leather. Set the jar near the fire 
for three days, shaking it three time a day; then pour it on the 
walnuts or other vegetables. For walnuts it is used hot; for 
cabbage, etc., cold. 

Pickled Peaches. 

To fourteen pounds of peaches peeled, put three pounds of brown 



276 PICKLES. 

sugar, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, same of powdered cloves, 
to one quart of strong cider vinegar. Let the vinegar, sugar, 
and spices boil a very little while; then put in your peaches and let 
them scald enough to stick a straw through them with ease. Take 
them out and put them in an earthen jar, seeing that the vinegar 
covers them well, which must be poured over the packed peaches. 
Put a cover over them lightly the first day; the second pour off the 
vinegar, heat and pour it boiling hot over the fruit. Repeat till 
the fruit is ready for use. Four or five times heating will generally 
cure them. Watch closely and if any fermentation occurs pour off 
the vinegar and scald it, skimming off any scum that arises. 

Pickled Peaches that will Keep. 
Four pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, to twelve pounds of fruit; 
put sugar and vinegar together and boil ; then add the fruit and let 
it come to a boil; the next day dram off the liquor and boil again; 
do this three times and your pickles are delicious; add cinnamon to 
the liquor and stick two or three cloves in each peach. 

To Pickle Plums. 
For eight pounds of fruit take four pounds of sugar, two quarts 
of vinegar, one ounce cmnamon, and one ounce cloves; boil the 
vinegar, sugar, and spices together; skim, and pour scalding hot 
over your fruit; let it set three days, pour off the syrup, scald and 
skim and pour over again, and continue this process every three 
days till you have scalded it three times, after which it will be fit 
for use. Plums prepared in this way we think superior to the old 
method of preserving with sugar alone. 

Green Tomato Sot. 
Two gallons of green tomatoes sliced without peeling; slice also 
twelve good sized onions; two quarts of vinegar, one quart of sugar, 
two tablespoonfuls each of salt, ground mustard, and ground black 
pepper, one tablespoonful of cloves and allspice. Mix all together 
and stew until tender, stirring often lest they should scorch. Put 
up in small glass jars. A good sauce for all kinds of meat or fish. 



PICKLES. 277 

To Keep Tomatoes Whole. 
Fill a large stone jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole 
cloves and a little sugar; cover them well with one-half cold 
vinegar and half water; place a piece of flannel over the jar well 
down in the vinegar, then tie down with paper. In this way toma- 
toes can be kept a year. Should mildew collect on the flannel it 
will not hurt them in the least. 

Pickled Tomatoes. 
Let the tomatoes be thoroughly ripe and let them lie in strong 
salt and water for three or four days; then put them down in 
layers in jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- 
radish; then pour on vinegar, cold, after having spiced it. Use 
plenty of spice, cover carefully, and let stand for a month before 
using. 



CHAPTER XX. 



^XtBtXVtB. 



XTEA preserves must be made of fruit that is 
free from all defects. Dry white sugar should 
be used. Any of the fruits that have been 
preserved in syrup may be converted into dry 
preserves, by draining the syrup from them, 
and then drying them in .a very moderate 
oven, adding to them plenty of i)0\vdered 
loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the 
fi'uit. While drying they should be turned every six hours, 
and sugar sifted over them. Keep in a dry place. 




Apple Preserves. 

Take three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of apples j 
make a syrup of the sugar and water, and a little lemon juice or 
sliced lemon; skim off all scum and put a few apples at a time 
into the syrup and boil until they are transparent; skim out and 
put in a jar. When all are done, boil the syrup down thick; 
pour it boiling hot over the apples and cover closely. Well- 
flavored fruit not easily broken should be selected. 



Citron Preserves. 

Pare and take out the seeds and cut them in pieces one inch thick 
and two inches in length; weigh them and put into a preserving 
kettle and cook them until they are clear, or steam them, then 

2l& 



PRESERVES. 279 

make a syrup of their weight in sugar with water and add two 
sliced lemons for each pound of fruit; put the citron into the syrup, a 
part at a time, and boil about fifteen mmutes; skim out and put into 
a jar. When all has been thus cooked, boil the syrup down thick, 
and pour over it. Cover closely with paper which the air cannot 
penetrate, or use air-tight Jars. 

Cttro'n Preseeyes, No. 2. 
First, peel and cut the citron in pieces an inch square; then boil 
in water until soft; drain off the water and add one pound of sugar 
to each pound of citron; to every five pounds of the preserve add 
one pound of raisins, one lemon sliced, half an ounce of white 
cloves, one ounce of stick cinnamon; dissolve the sugar, and when 
hot, add the fruit and simmer slowly for two hours. 

Currant I'reserves. 
Take ten pounds of currants and seven pounds of sugar; pick the 
stems from seven pounds of the currants and press the juice from 
the other three pounds; when the juice and sugar are made into a 
hot syrup, put in the currants and boil until thick and rich. 

Braxdied Cherries or Berries. 
Make a syruj) of a pound of sugar and a half gill of water for 
every two pounds of fruit. Heat to boiling, stirring to prevent 
burning, and pour over the fruit while warm — not hot. Let them 
stand together an hour; put all into a preserving kettle, and heat 
slowly; boil five minutes, take out the fruit with a perforated skim- 
mer, and boil the syrup twenty minutes. Add a pint of brandy for 
•every five pounds of fruit; pour over the berries hot, and seal. 

Lemon Preserves. 
One pound of pounded loaf sugar, quarter pound of butter, six 
eggs and the whites of four, well beaten, the rind of two lemons, 
grated, and the juice of three. Mix together and let it simmer till 
©f the consistency of honey. Be careful to stir all the time or it 
will burn. 



280 PRESERVES. 

Preserved Oranges. 
Take any number of oranges, with rather more than their weight 
in white sugar. Slightly grate the oranges and score them round 
and round with a knife, but do not cut very deep. Put them in 
cold water for three days, changing the water two or three times a 
day. Tie them up in a cloth, boil them until they are soft enough 
for the head of a pin to penetrate the skin. While they are boiling 
place the sugar on the fire, with rather more than half a pint of 
water to each pound; let it boil for a minute or two, then strain it 
through muslin. Put the oranges into the syrup till it jellies and 
is a yellow color. Try the syrup by putting some to cool. It must 
not be too stiff. The syrup need not cover the oranges, but they 
must be turned, so that each part gets thoroughly done. 

Preserved Pine-Apple. 

Pare, cut into slices, take out the core of each one, and weigh, 
allowing pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Put in alternate 
layers in the kettle and pour in water, allowing a cup to each pound 
of sugar. Heat to a boil; take out the pine-apple and spread upon 
dishes in the sun. Boil and skim the syrup half an hour. Return 
the pine-apple to the kettle and boil fifteen minutes. Take it out, 
pack in wide-mouth jars, pour on the scalding syrup; cover to keep 
in the heat, and, when cold, tie up, first putting brandied tissue 
paper upon the top. 

To Preserve Plums or Cherries. 

Make a syrup of clean, brown sugar, and clarify it; when per- 
fectly clear and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having picked 
out all the unsound ones and stems. Let them remain in the syrup 
two days, then drain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour 
it over again; let them remain another day or two, then put them 
into a preserving kettle over the fire, and simmer gently until the 
syrup is reduced, and thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each 
pound of plums. Small damsons are very fine preserved, as are 



PRESERVES. 281 

cherries, or any other ripe fruit. Clarify the syrup, and when 
boiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very gently until they 
are cooked, and the syrup rich. Put them in pots or jars the next 
day; secure as directed. 

Purple Plums Preserved. . 
Take an equal weight of fruit and nice sugar. Take a clean 
stone jar and fill it with the fruit and sugar in layers. Cover them 
and set the jar in a kettle of water over the fire. Let them stand 
in the boiling water all day, filling up the kettle as the water boils 
away. If at any time they seem likely to ferment, repeat this pro- 
cess. It is a simple and excellent way of preserving plums. 

To Preserve Pears. 
Pare them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup; let them lie a 
day or two. Make the syrup richer and simmer again. Repeat 
this till they are clear; then drain and dry them in the sun or a cool 
oven a little time; or they may be kept in the syrup and dried a* 
wanted, which ruakes them richer. 

Brandy Peaches. 
Drop the peaches in hot water, let them remain till the skin can 
be ripped off; make a thin syrup, and let it cover the fruit; boil 
the fruit till they can be pierced with a straw; take it out, make a 
very rich syrup, and add, after it is taken from the fire, and while 
it is still hot, an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this, while it is 
still warm, over the peaches in the jar. They must be covered 
with it. 

Peach Preserves. 

Take any nice peaches that will not cook to pieces, pare them 
and take out the pits; take their weight in sugar, or, if they are 
to be canned, three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, and 
a coffee-cup of water to each pound of sugar. Boil part of the pits in 
the water until the flavor is extracted, then remove the pits; add 
about as much water as has evaporated, then add the sugar; skin^ 



282 ■ PRESERVES. 

thoroughly, then add a small quantity of fruit at a time, cook slowly 
for about ten minutes, skim out into a jar, then add more. When 
all are done, pour the boiling syrup over them. The next day 
drain off the syrup and boil again and pour back; do the same for 
two or three days, then make them air-tight with paper as directed 
for jellies; or, if to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is sufficient. 
Cling stone peaches are preserved the same way, whole, except that 
they must be cooked longer. 

Quince Preserves. 
Pare and core the quinces, and cut into halves or quarters, as suit» 
the size of your jars; let them stand over night in enough cold 
water to cover them; in the morning put them in the kettle with 
the same water and let them cook gently until you can just stick a 
fork in them; take the fruit out with a skimmer, weigh it and to each 
pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar; put the fruit and sugar into 
the kettle, with enough of the water to make a good syrup, and let 
therd boil gently until they are clear; take out carefully with the 
skimmer and put into the jars; fill the jars to the top with the 
syrup. If there is a large quantity of fruit, and the kettle is not 
large, it is best to put the fruit in the syrup a little at a time. 

Presertixg Strawberries. 
Select the largest and finest strawberries. Hull them, weigh and 
allow to each pound one pound of the best double refined loaf sugar 
finely powdered. Divide the sugar into two equal jjortions. Put a 
layer of strawberries into the bottom of a preserving kettle and cover 
them with a layer of sugar, until half the sugar is in; next set the 
kettle over a moderate fire and let it boil till the sugar is melted; 
then put in, gradually, the remainder of the sugar, and, after it is all 
in, let it boil hard for five minutes, taking off the scum with a silver 
spoon; but there will be little or no scum if the sugar is of the very 
best quality. Afterwards remove the kettle from the fire and take 
out the strawberries very carefully in a spoon. Spread out the 
strawberries on large, flat dishes, so as not to touch each other, and 



PRESERVES. 283: 

set them immediately in a cold place or on ice. Hang the kettle 
again on the fire, and give the syrup one boil up, skimming it if 
necessary. Place a fine strainer over the top of a mug or pitcher, 
and pour the syrup through it. Then put the strawberries into 
glass jars or tumblers; pour into each an equal portion of the syrup. 
Lay at the top a round piece of white paper dipped in brandy. 
Seal the jars tightly. 

Raspberries may be preserved as above; also large ripe goose- 
berries. To each pound of gooseberries allow one and a half pounds 
sugar. Bury them in a box of sand, or keep in a dark, cool place. 

Geeen" Tomato Preserves. 

Eight pounds small, green tomatoes; pierce each with a fork; 

seven pounds sugar, juice of four lemons, one ounce of ginger and 

mace mixed; heat all together slowly and boil until the fruit is 

clear; remove from kettle with skimmer and spread upon dishes to 

cool; boil the syrup thick; put the fruit in jars and cover with hot 

syrup. 

Ripe Tomato Preserves. 

Seven pounds round yellow or egg tomatoes, peeled, seven 
pounds sugar, juice of three lemons; let them stand together over 
night, drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming well; put in the 
tomatoes, and boil gently twenty minutes; take out the fruit with 
a perforated skimmer and spread upon dishes; boil the syrup down 
until it thickens, adding, just before taking it up, the juice of three 
lemons; put the fruit into the jars and fill up with hot syrup. 
When cold, seal up. 

Spiced Currants. 

Four quarts ripe currants, three pounds brown sugar, one pint 
cider vinegar, one tablespoonful each of allspice and cloves, and a 
kittle nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil one hour, stirring occasionally. 

Spiced Gooseberries. 
Six quarts of gooseberries, ripe or green, nine pounds of sugar,, 
«ne pint of vinegar (not too strong), one tablespoonful each of" 



284 PRESERVES. 

•cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Put the berries in the kettle with 
half the sugar and a little water; boil an hour and a half. When 
nearly done, add the rest of the sugar; set it off the fire and add 
the spices and vinegar. 

Spiced Grapes. 
Five pounds of grapes, three of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of cin- 
namon and allspice, half teaspoonful of cloves; pulp grapes; boil 
until tender; cook pulps and strain through a sieve; add to it the 
■spices, put in sugar, spices and vinegar to taste; boil thoroughly 
and cool. 

Spiced Nutmeg Melon. 

Select melons not quite ripe; open, scrape out the pulp, peel and 
«lice; put the fruit in a stone jar, and, for five pounds of fruit take 
a quart of vinegar and two and a half pounds of sugar; scald vin- 
egar and sugar together, and pour over the fruit; scald the syi'up 
and pour over the fruit for eight successive days. On the ninth, 
add one ounce of stick cinnamon, one of whole cloves, and one of 
allspice; scald fruit, vinegar and spices together, and seal up in 
jars. This pickle should stand two or three months before using. 
31ue plums are very nice prepared in this way. 

Spiced Peaches. 
Five pounds peaches, two of brown sugar, one quart vinegar, one 
•ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace. Wipe the peaches and 
hoil until done in the vinegar and sugar, then take out, put in spices, 
"boil well and pour over. 

Spiced Plums. 

Spio^ed plums are delicious with cold meat. Cook the plums in a 
little water until they are soft; then, so far as possible, remove the 
stones, sweeten and spice to your taste, and boil until thick; put in 
iarge-mouthed bottles and seal, or can in the usual- way. 



PRESERVES. 285; 

Spiced Plums, No, 2. 
Nine pounds blue pluraf?, six pounds sugar, two quarts vinegar^ 
one ounce cinnamon; boil vinegar, sugar and spice together, pour 
over plums, draw off next morning and boil; pour back on plums: 
repeat the boiling five mornings, the last time boiling the fruit about 
twenty minutes. 




CHAPTER XXL 



HOICE material should be used in making 
salads, the vegetables crisp and fresh, the 
oil or butter the very best, meats, fowl 
and fish well cooked, pure cider or white 

} .^ wine vinegar — in fact, every ingredient 
first-class, to insure success. 

The vegetables used in salad are: 
"•*' Beet-root, onions, potatoes, cabbage, let- 
tuce, celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, 
■winter cress, peas, French beans, radish, cauliflower, — all these 
may be used judiciously in salad, if properly seasoned, according 
to the following directions : 

Celery Salad. 

Cut nice blanched salad very small. Wash clean and dry it; 
pour over it a Mayonnaise sauce (see Savory Sauces,) or any salad 
dressing, and garnish with green celery leaves. 

Chicken Salad. 

Use the white meat of two good sized chickens, and celery 
enough to make the proportion one-third chicken and two-thirds 
celery; boil ten eggs hard, rub the yolks perfectly smooth with a 
jsilver spoon, adding gradually four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one 

286 



SALADS. 287 

tablespoonful of made mustard, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tea- 
spoonful of black pepper, half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, 
and one tablespoonful of sugar; add sweet cream by degrees until 
about the consistency of batter. Just before sending to the table, 
mix the dressing with the chicken and celery, and moisten with 
sharp vinegar. The juice of two lemons is an improvement. 

Chicken Salad, No. 2. 

Boil the white meat of two large chickens; cut it coarse, and 
add the white part of celery, cut coarse; a little more chicken than 
celery. 

Dressing. — Three yolks of eggs, well beaten; one jsint of oil 
added drop by drop, and beaten; the juice of two lemons, one tea- 
spoonful of dry mustard, a little Cayenne pepper, a little salt. If 
jQOt moist enough, beat the whites of two eggs and add to it. 

Cabbage Salad. 
I'o a dish of chopped cabbage, four teaspoonfuls of celery seed, 
or one bunch of celeiy. Put in a bowl, yolks of two eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 
pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of made mustard, 
one-half cup of vinegar. Set the bowl into hot water, and stir care- 
fully until it begins to thicken. Let it get cold, and pour over the 
cabbage. If it does not moisten it enough, put in a little more 
vinegar. 

Fish Salad. 

This consists of cold fish of any kind, mixed with well-dried 
salad, pickled gherkins, or any other green pickle. Oysters or 
shrimps may be added to the other fish, which should be separated 
neatly into flakes, and the whole moistened with a salad dressing 
Garnish with some slices of lemon and parsley. 

Hot Egg Salad. 

Put a tablespoonful of salad oil in a pan and let it get hot. 
Break in three eggs; stir a little with r fork, but not enough to 



288 SALADS. 

mix the yolks and whites; these should be kept separate. Put the 
eggs out on a dish, and put over them a tablespoonful of chopped 
pickle and a tablespoonful of grated lemon rind. Make a salad 
dressing of one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, three of salad oil, a 
saltspoonful of salt, and one-quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. 
Much of the niceness of this salad depends on its being served hot. 

ExDivE AViTH Winter Salad. 

An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad may be made in 
winter principally by the aid of this plant. Only a little cress, 
celery, and beetroot will be necessary to form a striking contrast to 
the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which may be arranged 
{en bouquet) in the centre, or interspcred with other materials, 
through the dish. Endive may be had good from November till 
March. 

Lettuce Salad, 

Wash and dry nice leaves of lettuce, and pour over a salad 
dressing, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Lettuce Salad, No. 2. 

Wash, diy, and shred nice leaves of lettuce, and put them in a 
salad bowl. Cut four ounces of bacon into dice; fry these with a 
finely-minced onion, and do not allow them to burn, add a little 
salt, if needed, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of 
vinegar; pour all over the lettuce and mix thoroughly. Serve 
immediately. 

Lobster Salad. 

Pick the meat from the body of a lobster, take out the tail part- 
in one piece, and cut it, with the contents of the claws, into slices 
a quarter of an inch thick. Chop the whites of two hard-boiled 
eggs small, and rub the yolks smooth. Do the same with the spawn 
or coral of the lobster, but mix the soft part and any bits with the 
sauce. Pour the sauce into the bowl, put in a layer cf shred lettuce 
and small salad, and place the slices of lobster, wirn hard-boiled eggs 



SALADS. 28d 

quartered and interspersed, with sliced beetroot, cucumber, etc., on 
the top. Repeat in the same manner till the bowl is full, sprinkling 
the egg and coral over and between the layers. To ornament, 
reserve some of the hard-boiled eggs, yolks and whites, arrange 
these with the coral, beetroot, and sliced lobster, so that the colors 
may contrast well. Before serving, pour some Mayonnaise sauce 
over the top. 

Game Salad. 

Take the remains of cold cooked game, pick up fine, and cover 
with a dressing made as follows: Take the yolk of a hard-boiled 
egg and mix it smoothly with a tablespoonful of salad oil; stir in a 
little salt and pepper, a little made mustard, a dessertspoonful of 
walnut catsup, and three dessertspoonfuls of vinegar. 

Orange Salad, 
A very simple dish made of tart oranges. Some peeled and 
sliced and some sliced unpeeled, gai'nished with one tablespoonful 
of lemon-juice, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a little Cayenne 
pepper. This is a nice dish for breakfast, or with game or cold 
meats. The oil, lemon, juice and pepper should be mixed in a dish 
and poured over the oranges. 

Potato Salad. 

Take some cold boiled potatoes and slice very thin; add to them 
three hard-boiled eggs, also sliced thin; choj) one small, fresh onion. 
In a glass bowl or salad dish put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of 
eggs, and sprinkle over tliem a little chopped onion, salt and pep- 
per. For dressing, take the yolk of a raw egg and stir into it half 
a teaspoonful of made mustard. Beat into it, drop by drop, three 
tablespoonfuls of sweet cream; add one tablespoonful of strong 
vinegar and the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. If needed 
for supper make at noontime. Flakes of cold boiled salmon, cod, 
or halibut, substituted for the eggs, or added with them, Avill 

improve the salad. 
19 



290 SALADS. 

Salmon Salad. 
One can of fresh salmon, four bunches of celery; chop as for 
chicken salad; mix with the salmon, and pour salad dressing over it. 

Summer Salad. 

Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin slices, and half a pound of 
white, fresh lettuce; put in a salad bowl, season with a teaspoonful 
of salt, half that quantity of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
and four of good salad oil. Stir all together lightly with a fork 
and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready to serve. Chaptal, a 
French chemist, says the dressing of a salad should be saturated 
with oil, and seasoned with pepper and salt, before the vinegar is 
added; it results from this process that there can never be too much 
^•inegar, for, from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared 
with the oil, what is more than useful will fall to the bottom of the 
bowl, the salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar, but in the oil, 
by which means it is more equally distributed throughout the salad. 

Russian" Salad. 

Any three kinds of vegetables may be used — carrots, turnips 
and beets; string beans, carrots and turnips; or carrots, turnips 
and parsnips. The vegetables should be cut in slices about one 
and a half inches thick. These slices should be cut into cylin- 
der-shaped pieces. This could be done with an apple-corer or with 
a knife. These pieces should be put in dishes, keeping each vege- 
table separate. As they are cut throw the pieces into cold water; 
take from the cold water and put into boiling water containing a 
spoonful of salt to a quart of water. Boil each vegetable by itself 
and boil until tender; drain off the juice and put the pieces into 
cold water until they are thoroughly cold. They are then ready to 
use for the salad. Beets must not be peeled or cut. When boiled 
tender the skins should be taken off by rubbing in a towel as soon 
as cool enough to handle, and then cut in pieces like the other 
vegetables. The pieces left after cutting out what is wanted can 



SALADS. 291 

ibe saved by putting them in cold salt water. Pease, beans, spinach, 
and all vegetables, can be kept green by boiling and putting them 
in salt cold water until wanted to use. The dressing for the 
Russian salad is made plain, like that of orange salad, being a table- 
spoonful of lemon- juice or vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of salad 
■oil, salt and Cayenne pepper. It is best not to put on the di'essing 
Hntil ready to serve. 

Sidney Smith's Receipt for Salad Dressing. 
Two boiled potatoes, strained through a kitchen siev«s^ 
Softness and smoothness to the salad give; 
Of mordant mustar^ take a single spoon — 
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; 
Yet deem it not, though man of taste, a fault, 
To add a double quantity of salt. 
Four times the spoon, with oil of Lucca crown, 
And twice with vinegar procured from town; 
True taste requires it, and your poet begs 
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. 
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; 
And lastly, in the flavored compound toss 
A magic teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. 
Oh, great and glorious! oh, herbaceous meat! 
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat; 
Back to the world he'd turn his Aveary soul, 
And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl. 

Vegetables and Salads. 
Upon the washing of green vegetables for salads much of their 
excellence depends; they should be shaken about without breaking 
in a large pan of cold water well salted, since the action of the salt 
will destroy all the minute inhabitants of their fresh green coverts, 
and, once dead, from sheer force of gravity they will fall to the 
tottom of the water. When the salad plants are free from sand 



292 



SALADS. 



and insects they should be shaken without breaking their leaves, in 
a colander, a wire basket, or a dry napkin until no moisture adheres 
to them; then they may be used at once or kept until wanted in a 
very cold, dark place. 

Water-cress Salad. 
Gather the water-cress when young, cleanse it thoroughly in salt 
and water, and serve as fresh as possible. Place it in a bowl, either 
alone or mixed with other salad i)lants, and toss in lightly a simple 
salad sauce. When served at breakfast, water-cress is best sent to 
the table as it is, fresh and crisp. 

Salad Dressing. 
Take half a pint of vinegar and let it get hot; then beat up two 
*ggs, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, 
one teaspoonful of mustard, a little salt and pepper, and four table- 
epoonfuls of melted butter; stir this in tlie vinegar and let the 
whole boil up till it is like custard, then mix it with whatever you 
iiave for a salad. It is good for potatoes, meat or fish. 

Salad Dressing, No. 2. 
Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, rubbed very fine and smooth, one 
teaspoonful English mustard, one of salt, the yolks of two raw eggs 
beaten into the other, dessertspoonful of fine sugar. Add very 
fresh sweet oil, poured in by very small quantities, and beaten as 
long as the mixture continues to tliicken; tlien add vinegar till as 
thin as desired. If not hot enough with mustard, add a little 
Cayenne pepper. 



CHAPTER XXII. 




0oup0, Sauces anh foxccnnats. 

Soups. 
N THE wealthy families, soup is considered a 
necessity, and, as a matter of course, forms 
part of the dinner. Amongst the middle classes 
it is more usually served than it used to be, 
and is, year by year, increasingly api)reciated; 
but amongst the lower classes it is all but 
scorned; and mistresses of small households 
will testify that the maid-of-all-work, who, 
when at home is half starved instead of being properly fed, will 
consider herself most hardly used if part of the provision of the 
day's dinner consists of a portion of wholesome soup. This 
opinion is, of course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both nourish- 
ing and wholesome, and it may also be prepared economically. 
With attention and a little trouble, it may be made from very 
inexpensive materials, and considering that when soup has been 
served, smaller inroads are made into the joint, the frugal house- 
keeper who has once calculated the difference in cost of a dinner 
consisting of an economically made soup, meat and vegetables, 
and one of meat and vegetables only, will never object to the 
introduction of soup at her table on account of the expense. Soup 
may be made of a large variety of different articles, including meat 
of all kinds, bones, game, and poultry; fish, shell-fish, all kinds of 
vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles, milk, eggs, etc. The 
basis of all soup is stock. Instructions in making this will be 
found in its proper place, and it will, therefore, not be considered 

293 



204 SOUPS, SA.UCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

here. Directions for making various soups will be found under 
their several headings; nevertheless, it may be found useful if a 
few rules of universal application are here given as an assistance in 
their manufacture. 

There are three kinds of soups — celery soup, thick soup and 
purees. A puree is made by rubbing the ingredients of which it is. 
composed through a sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened by the 
addition of various thickening ingredients. These soups are best 
suited to the winter season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and 
adapted for use in the summer months. In making soup it is most 
important that every culinary article used should be perfectly clean. 
The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims and the handles 
particularly require attention. The lid of the saucepan should 
never be removed over a smoky fire. The meat used should be 
freshly killed, and should be as lean as it can be procured; it should 
never be washed. The bones should be broken u]d into small pieces. 
Cold water should be put upon fresh meat and bones; boiling water 
(a small quantity at a time) upon meat or vegetables that have been 
fried or browned. As it is very important that no fatty particles, 
should be left to float on the surface of the soup, this should be 
made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, so that the fat may 
be removed after it has grown cold. Soup should be simmered very 
softly till it is done enough. A large fire and quick boiling are the 
great enemies of good soup. In flavoring soup, the cook should be 
careful to add the seasoning ingredients in moderation and grad- 
ually, especially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, spices, herbs, 
salt and Cayenne. An overdose of salt has spoilt many a dish of 
soup, while a deficiency thereof has again and again nullified the 
effect of the most delicate combination of flavors. As a general 
rule, two ounces of salt will suflice for a gallon of soup stewed with 
large quantities of vegetables; an ounce and a half only will be 
needed if the vegetables are omitted, or if a small quantity only is 
used. It should be remembered that salt and all seasonings can be 
added when they cannot be taken out. For flavoring purposes. 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 295 

aromatic seasoning of lierbs, and spices, and herb-powders for 
flavoring soups, Avill be found of great use. AVhatever ingredients 
are added to soup, Avliether farinaceous articles, such as rice, ver- 
micelli, macaroni, etc., or vegetables, all should be partially boiled 
in plain water before they are put into the liquor. This will insure 
their being perfectly clean and bright. The flavor of rich brown 
soups will be brought out better if a small piece of sugar be added 
to it. This must not be used for Avhite soups. Cream or milk, 
when put with soups, should be boiled separately, strained, and 
added boiling. If, instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg 
are used, the egg must on no account be boiled in the liquor. 
Either it must be mixed thoroughly with a little of the soup which 
has cooled for a minute, then be stirred into the rest, or, better 
still, it must be put into the soup tureen, a spoonful of the soup 
mixed with the milk stirred into it, and the rest added gradually. 
If soups are to be kept for a few days they should be boiled up 
every clay, according to the state of the weather, put into freshly- 
scalded dry earthenware crocks or pans and kept in a cool place; 
cover with a piece of gauze. Soup should never be kept in metal 
vessels. 

Stock. 
Stock is the basis of all meat sauces, soups and purees. It is 
really the juice of meat extracted by long and gentle simmering, 
and in making it, it should be remembered that the object to be 
aimed at is to draw the goodness of the material out into the liquor. 
It may be prepared in various ways, richly and expensively, or 
economically. All general stock, or stock which is to be used for 
miscellaneous purposes, sliould be simply made, that is, all flavoring 
ingi-edients should be omitted entirely until its use is decided upon. 
The stock will then keep longer than it would do if vegetables, 
herbs, and spices were boiled in it, besides which the flavoring can 
be adapted to its special jsurpose. To ensure its keeping, stocks 
should be boiled and skimmed every day in summer, and every 
©ther day in winter. The pan and lid used in making it should bo 



296 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

scrupulously clean. A tinned iron pan is the best for tlie purpose. 
Those who wish to practice economy should procux-e a digester, 
which is a kind of stock-pot made with the object of retaining the 
goodness of the materials, and preventing its escape by steam, 
when ready stock should be kept in an earthenware vessel, and 
never allowed to cool in a metal pan. Before being used, skim off 
all fat. Excellent stock is constantly made with the bones and 
trimmings of meat and poultry, with the addition or not of a little 
fresh meat, or a portion of extract of meat. In a house where meat 
is regularly used, a good cook will never be without a little stock. 
Broken remnants of all kinds will find their way to the stock-pot, 
and will not be thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have 
been made to yield to the utmost whatever of flavor and goodness 
they possessed. When fresh meat is used it is better for being 
freshly killed. The liquor in which fresh meat, has been boiled 
should always be used as stock. 

Bean Soup. 
Soak one and a half pints of beans in cold water over night. In 
the morning drain off the Avater, wash the beans in fresh water and 
put them into a soup kettle with four quarts of good beef stock, 
from which all the fat has been. rem,oved. Set it where it will boil 
slowly but steadily until dinner, or three hours at the least. Two 
hours before dinner slice in an onion and a carrot. Some think it 
improved by adding a little tomato. If the l)eans are not liked 
whole, strain tiirough a colander and send to the table hot. 

Asparagus Soup. 
Select about two dozen of good asparagus stalks; boil these 
thoroughly in enough water to cover them; a quarter of an onion 
boiled with the asparagus is an improvement. When tender, take 
the asparagus out of the water, saving the water,- and removing the 
onion; cut the asparagus into small pieces, of course only the 
tender part, and put them in a mortar, adding a little of the water; 
must be pounded until jjerfectly smooth; now take some sifted 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 297 

•flour, a dessertspoonful, a bit of butter as big as an i^g'^, and a very 
little pulverized sugar; mix well, and then put on the fire until it 
melts, stirring all the time; add this to the pounded asparagus and 
the rest of the water; when it has boiled a te-w minutes, mix the 
yolk of one egg with a tumblerful of cream, and add this; if 
properly made, it wants no straining; use salt and j^epper to taste, 
and a very little nutmeg; one stalk of asparagus may be left, which 
may be cut in thin slices, and added last. 

Beef Soup. 
Boil a soi;]) bone about four hours; then take out meat into a 
chopping-bowl; put the bones back into the kettle. Slice very thin 
one small onion, six potatoes, and three turnips into the soup; boil 
until all are tender. Have at least one gallon of soup when done. 
It is irauroved by adding crackers, rolled, or noodles, just before 
taking oflF. Take the meat that has been cut from the bones, chop 
fine Avhile wai'm, season with salt and peppei', add one cup of soup, 
saved out before putting in the vegetables; pack in a dish, and slice 
down for tea or lunch when cold. 

Cosniox Soup. 
Take shank or neck of beef or meat of fowls; cut fine; crack the 
bones; put in a pot and stew slowly several hours, until all the 
meats are cooked to shreds. Pour on a little boiling water and 
keep boiling until nearly ready to serve; skim off all grease; add 
vegetables, potatoes, carrots, barley or rice as you may prefei' — the 
vegetables having been previously cooked by themselves — and then 
add a little butter to give it richness. 

Clam Soup. 
Select five large, plump clams, and after chopping them finely; 
add the liquor to the meat. To every dozen allow a quart of cold 
water, and, putting meat, liquor and water into a clean vessel, allow 
them to simmer gently, but not boil, about one and one-half hours. 
Every particle of meat should bo so well cooked that you seem to 



298 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

have only a thick broth. Season to taste and pour into a tureen in 
which a few slices of well-browned toast have been placed. If 
desired, to every two dozen of clams allow a cup of new milk and 
one egg. Beat the latter very light, add slowly the milk, beat 
hard a minute or so, and when the soup is removed from the fire, 
stir the egg and milk into it. 

Corn Soup. 
Twelve ears of corn scraped and the cobs boiled twenty minutes 
in one quart of water. Remove the cobs and put in the corn and 
boil fifteen minutes, then add two quarts of rich milk. Season witli 
salt, pepper and butter, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Boil the whole ten minutes and turn into a tureen in which 
the yolks of three eggs have been well beaten. 

Frexch Vegetable Soup. 
To a leg of lamb of moderate size take four quarts of water. Of 
carrots, potatoes, onioiis, tomatoes, cabbage and turnips, take a cup 
each, chopped fine; salt and pepper to taste. Let the lamb be 
boiled in this water. Let it cool; skim off all fat that rises to the 
top. The next day boil again, adding the chopped vegetables. 
Let it boil three hours the second day. 

Egg Sottp. 
Boil a leg of lamb about two hours in water enough to cover it. 
A-fter it has boiled about an hour and when carefully skimmed, add 
one-half cup of rice, and pepper and salt to taste. Have ready in 
your tureen two eggs well beaten; add the boiling soup, a little at 
a time, stirring constantly. Serve the lamb Avith drawn butter, 
garnished with parsley and hard-boiled eggs cut into slices. 

Chicken Soup. 

Boil a pair of chickens with great care, skimming constantly and 

keeping them covered with water. When tender, take out the 

chicken and remove the bone. Put a large lump of butter into a 

spider, dredge the chicken meat well with flour, and lay in the hot 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 29?' 

pan; fry a nice brown, and keep hot and dry. Take a pint of the 
chicken water, and stir in two large spoonfuls of curry powder, two 
of butter and one of flour, one teaspoonf ul of salt and a little Cay- 
enne; stir until smooth, then mix it with the broth in the pot. 
"When well mixed, simmer five minutes, then add the browned 
chicken. Serve with rice. 

Cabbage Soup. 

Put into your soup kettle a couple of pounds of sweet bacon or- 
pork that has not been too long in salt. Add, if you like, a bit of 
knuckle of veal, or mutton, or beef, or all thi*ee; skim well as they 
come to a boil. Shred into a pail of cold water the hearts of one 
or two cabbages, some carrots, turnips, celery and leeks. When 
the soup boils, throw all these in. When the vegetables are tender 
without falling to pieces, the soup is done. You may thicken vith 
a few mashed, boiled potatoes. Simmer the meat two hours before 
adding the vegetables. 

Geeen Pea Soup. 

Boil a pint of green pease in water with salt, a head of lettuce, 
an onion, a carrot, a few leaves of mint, and a strip of parsley, some 
pepper and salt to taste, and a lump of sugar. When thoroughly 
done, strain off the liquor and pass the pease, etc., through a hair 
sieve; add as much of the liquor as will bring it to the right con- 
sistency; put the soup in a saucepan with a small pat of fresh 
butter; let it boil up, and serve with dice-shaped bread fried in. 
butter. 

Gumbo Soup. 

Cut up a pair of good-sized chickens, as for a fricassee; flour 
them well, and put into a pan with a good-sized piece of butter,, 
and fry a nice brown; then lay them in a soup-pot, pour on three 
quarts of hot water, and let them simmer slowly for two hours. 
Braid a little flour and butter together for a thickening, and stir in 
a little pepper and salt. Strain a quart or three pint^ q£ oysteru^. 



■ 300 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

and add the juice to the soup. Next add four or five slices of cola 
boiled ham, and let all boil slowly together for ten minutes. Just 
before you take up the soup, stir in two large spoonfuls of finely- 
powdered sassafras leaves, and let it simmer five minutes, then add 
your oysters. If you have no ham, it is very nice without it. Serve 

In a deep dish, and garnish the dish with rice. 

* 

Plain Gumbo Soup. 
Take a piece of ham half the size of your hand, and a knuckle of 
veal} put them in a pot with two quarts of cold water; simmer 
«lo>wly two or three hours, then add two quarts of boiling water. 
Twenty minutes before serving, put in one small can of okra and as 
many oysters as you please. Season to taste. 

Lobster Soup. 

One large lobster; pick all the meat from the shell and chop fine; 
take one quart of milk and one pint of water, and, when boiling, 
add the lobster, nearly a pound of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 
and a tablespoonf ul of flour. Boil ten minutes. 

Macaroni Soup. 
Six pounds of beef put into four quarts of water, with one large 
onion, one carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery, and boiled three 
or four hours slowly. Next day take oflf the grease and pour into 
the soup-kettle, season to taste with salt, and add a pint of macaroni 
broken into small pieces, and two tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. 
Half to three-quarters of an hour will be long enough to boil the 
second day. 

Macaroni, or Vermicelli Soup. 
Two small cai'rots, four onions, two turnips, two cloves, one 
tablespoonf ul salt; pepper to taste. Herbs — marjoram, parsley and 
thyme; any cooked or uncooked meat. Put the' soup bones in 
enough water to cover them; when they boil, skim them and add 
the vegetables. Simmer three or four hours, then strain through 
* colander and put back in the saucepan to re-heat. Boil one-half 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 301 

pound of macaroni until quite tender, and place in the soup tureen, 
and pour the soup over it — the last thing. Vermicelli will only 
need to be soaked a short time — not boiled. 

Mock Terrapin Soup. 

For the mock terrapin soup, take one and one-fo\irth pounds of 
calf's liver and put in salt boiling water for half an hour; add small 
herbs, one-half dozen grains of pepper, one teaspoonf ui of cloves, a 
few slices of onion, carrot, etc. When the vegetables are done, 
take them out and mash by putting them through a colander 
or sieve. Make a Spanish sauce of salt pork or bacon, fried 
enough to get the fat out of it; put into the fat a little slice of 
onion, a little celery, one-half dozen peppers, one-half cup of tomato, 
and cook brown. Take a teaspoonful of salad oil, a yolk of a hard- 
boiled egg, dust of Cayenne pepper, roll to paste, and make into 
small, round balls; put these into Spanish sauce, then put the sance 
into the soup. When they come to the top, skim them out. Put 
in the tureen a glass of wine and slice of lemon, and jjour in ther 
soup; then cut the calf's liver into small bits and add it. 

Mock Turtle Soup. 
Clean a calf's head well and let it stand in salt and water two or 
three hours; then soak it in fresh water. Put it to boil in cold, 
water, and when sujfEciently cooked, separate the meat from the 
bone. Strain the broth, cut the meat in small pieces, and add it to 
thfc broth; sea°on with salt and Worcester sauce, both of which are 
particularly suited to this soup. Next take one pound of suet, and 
two pounds of veal, chopped fine, with sufficient bread crumbs. Sea- 
soning as above, make some forcemeat balls and fry them in butter j 
chop three hard-boiled eggs fine, add these and a glass of wine. 

MuTTOx Soup. 
Boil a leg of mutton from two to three hours, and season with 
salt, pepper and about a tablospoonful of summer savory rubbed, 
dne, add rice or noodles as desired. 



302 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

Mushroom Soup. 
Take a good quantity of mushrooms, cut off the earthy end, and 
pick and wash them. Stew them with some butter, pepper, and 
salt in a little good stock till tender; take them out, and chop them 
up quite small; prepare a good stock as for any other soup, and 
add it to the mushrooms and the liquor they have been stewed in. 
Boil all together and serve. If white soup be desired, use tha 
white button mushrooms and a good veal stock, adding a spoonful 
of cream or a little milk, as the color may require. 

Noodles for Soup. 
Beat one egg light ; add a pinch of salt, and flour enough to mak«, 
a stiff dough; roll out in a very thin sheet, dredge with flour to 
keep from sticking, then roll up tightly. Begin at one end and 
fihave down fine, like cabbage for slaw. 

Okra Gumbo. 
Cut one chicken; wash, dry and flour it thoroughly; salt and 
pepper; fry very brown in a skillet with a lump of lard large as an 
^gg- Put it into your soup kettle with five quarts of water; add 
one onion cut up, and let it boil two hours; add two dozen okra 
pods, and let it boil another hour. Season to taste and serve with 
rice. 

Ox-Tail Soup. 
Take two tails, wash, and put into a kettle with about one gallon 
of cold water and a little salt; skim off the broth. When the meat 
is well cooked, take out the bones, and add a little onion, carrot 
and tomatoes. It is better made the day before using, so that the 
fat can be taken from the top. Add vegetables next day, and boil 
An hour and a half longer. 

Oyster Soup. 
Two quarts of oysters, three pints of new milk, three ounces of 
't>utter, one and one-half ounces of flour, salt and pepper to tast^ 



SOUPS, SAUCES. AND FORCEMEATS. 303 

and mace, if liked. Put the milk over boiling water; drain the 
oysters and put the liquor in a saucepan on the stove; wash the 
oysters and remove every particle of shell that may adhere to them. 
When the milk is hot add the butter and flour, rubbed smoothly 
together and thinned with a little of the milk; let it cook, stirring 
slowly, until slightly thickened; the liquor, which must be well 
boiled, skimmed and hot, may then be added, and after that, the 
drained oysters. As soon as they are well puffed and the edges 
somewhat curled, serve the soup. Half a pint of rich cream is a 
great improvement and may be used instead of the butter. Serve 
ivith them a plate of small crackers, crisped in the oven. 

Potato Soup. 

Boil a half dozen potatoes, and mash thoroughly, mixing with it 
a quart of stock, seasoning with salt and pepper; boil it for five 
minutes, removing scum; add to this a tumblerful of milk last, and 
sei've after the soup has come again to the boil; must be perfectly 
smooth. 

Turkey Soup. 

Take the turkey bones and boil three-quarters of an hour in 
iv^ater enough to cover them; add a little summer savory and celery 
■chopped fine. Just before serving, thicken with a little flour 
(browned), and season with pepper, salt, and a small piece of 
butter. 

Southern Gumbo Fela. 
Take an onion and cut it up fine; have the lar\ quite hot, then 
drop the onion in and let it fry a light brown; dust in two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and stir all the time to keep from burning, and in 
a few minutes it will be brown; pour in boiling water as much as 
will serve the family, allowing for boiling down; have a nice fat 
chicken cut up, put it in the pot and let it boil until tender; take fifty 
oysters from th liquor and strain it to remove all pieces of shell; 
put the liquor in a stewpan, let it boil up once, then skim and put 
the liquor in the pot, season with salt, black and red pepper, ^Iso a 



304 SOUPS. SAUCES. AND FORCEMEATS. 

small piooo ot" garlii*; al'tor K'ltiui^; it hoW sou\o tinu\ luU the 
oy!Stci"s; take two tablespoon lu Is of t'ola ami ilust in, stirring all tl'o 
time; as soon as it boils onoo it is roailv to sorve; always servo with 
boiled vice. 

Fela is pivpareil by our luilians. anil is simplv the young leaves 
ol" the sassafnk^, ilrieJ in the sluule, ami pulverizeil with a few 
leaves of the sweet bay. In the suninier, young i>kra poils are 
used in plaee of fela. 

Tomato Son*. 

Seven good-sized tomatoes to two quarts of milk; stew and sea- 
sou tomatoes highly with salt and pepper; have tlie milk hot; break 
into it a few eraekers; stir in a large lump o( butter; pour into a 
tureen, and just as you take to the table, add tomatoes, mixing 
them well together. 

ToM.vro Sore, No. -. 
Otie quart of toniatoes, one onion, two vninees of tlour, four ounees. 
of butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of salt, one-third of a 
teaspoonful of Cayenne ]>epp. r. three pints or water, one-half pint 
of milk. Roil the tomatoes and onion in Mater for three-quar- 
ters of an l\our. Add salt, pepper, sugar, butter, and tlour; rub 
smoothly tv>gether like thin eream; boil ten minutes; boil milk 
separately. When both are boiling, pour the milk into the toma- 
toes, to pivvent curdling. Serve with squares of toasted bread. 

Green Tiutt.e So\r. 
A glass of ^ladeira, two onions, buneli of sweet herbs, juice of 
one lemon, five quarts of water. Chop up the coarser parts of the 
turtle meat with the entrails and bones. Add to them four quart* 
of water, and stew four hours with the herbs, onions, pepper and 
salt. Stew very slowly, but do not let it cease to boil durijig this 
time. At the end of four houi-s strain the soup, and add the tiner 
parts of the turtle and the gre.>n fat, which has been simmered for 
one hour in two quarts of water Thicken with browned flour; 
return to the sotip-pot, and simmer gently aat hour longer. If there 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 30.-» 

are eggs in the turtle, boil them in a separate vessel for four hours, 
and throw into the soup before taking it up. If not, put '.n force- 
meat balls; then the juice of the lemon and wine; beat up once and 
pour out. Some cooks add the finer meat before straining, boiling 
all together for five hours; then strain, thicken, and put in ihe 
green fat, cut into lumps an inch long. This makes a handsomer 
soup than if the meat is left in. For the mock eggs, take the yolks 
of three hard-boiled eggs, and one raw egg well be{.ten. Rub tho 
boiled eggs into a paste with a teaspoonful of butter, bind wi'h a 
raw egg, roll into pellets the size and shape of turtle eggs, and Iny 
in boiling water for two minutes before dropping into the souj.- 

Soyer's Cheap Sours. 
Soyer, in his " Culinary Campaign," has given recipes foi m-^icing 
palatable soups, which he says will not cost more \.han u .ent a 
quart in London. Here is one of them: Take two oanceu '/f drip- 
ping, quarter of a pound of solid meat, cut into pieces t ,ie inch 
square; quarter of a pound of onions, sliced thin; same o| turnips 
(the peel will do) or a whole one cut into slices; two ounce; of leeka 
(green tops will do) sliced thin; three ounces of celeiy; three- 
quarters of a pound of common flour; half a j^ound of pearl barley, 
or one pound of Scotch; three ounces of salt; quarter of an ounce 
of brown sugar; two gallons of water. First put two ounces of 
dripping into a saucepan capable of holding two gallons of water, 
with a quai'ter of a pound of leg-beef without bo le, cut into 
square pieces of about an inch; and two middling-s'zed onions, 
peeled and sliced; then set the saucepan over the fire, und stir the 
contents around for a few minutes with a wooden or iron spoon 
until fried lightly brown. Have then ready washed the peelings of 
two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green 
part of two leeks (the whole of which, I must observe, are always 
thrown away). Having cut the above vegetable into small pieces, 
throw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring 
them occasionally over the fin^ for another ten minutes; then add 

one quart of cclu wr.t.r and three-quarters of a pound of com- 
20 



306 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

4ion flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; 
then add seven quarts of hot water, seasoned with three ounces 
•)f salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirring occasion- 
ally until boiling, and allowing it to simmer gently for three hours; 
at the end of which time the barley will be perfectly tender. The 
above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of 
Parliament, and several ladies, who have lately visited my kitchen 
department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing. 
The soup will keep several days when made as above described; 
but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but within a flat 
vessel, when the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then 
until nearly cold, or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of 
fermentation. This does not denote the weakness of the soup, 
because the sar^e evil exists in the strongest of stock, or sauce, if 
not stirred or confined in a warm place — a fact known to every 
first-rate cook. The expense may come to tliree farthings per quart 
in London; but as almost every thing can be had at less cost in the 
country, the price of the soup will be still more reduced. In that 
case, a little additional meat might be added. By giving with this 
a small portion of bread or biscuit, better support would be given 
to the poor at a trifling cost; and no one, it is to be hoped, here 
after, would hear of the dreadful calamity of starvation. 

Soup, No. 2. — Same Cost. 
Quarter of a pound of beef cut into pieces one inch square; two 
ounces of dripping, or melted suet, quarter of a pound of turnips, 
or carrots, cut into fragments half an inch square, four drops 
essence of meat, one and a half pounds of maize flour, three ounces 
of salt, quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonf ul of black 
pepper, ground fine. Take two ounces of either drippings, Amer- 
ican lard, or suet, to which add the turnips and carrots; fry for ten 
minutes; add one quart of cold water, and the. meal, well mixed, 
and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil five 
hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one-quarter ounce of 
brown sugar, one teasjDoonful of black pepper, two drops of essence 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 307 

of garlic, one drop of essence of mint, a little celery; stir quickly, 
and serve directly. 

By adding a pound of potatoes to this, a superior soup will be 
the result. 

Aspic Jelly fou Garnishing. 

Take two pints of nicely-flavored stock, of a clear, firm jelly; 
put this into a saucepan with a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of 
vinegar and a glass of sherry. Let it boil; then stir into an ounce 
■of the best gelatine, which has been soaked in a little cool water. 
When again cool, add the whisked whites of two eggs; let it boil; 
then set back to settle; strain through a jelly-bag until quits clear, 
and pour it on a dish which has been standing in cold water Cut 
it into dice for garnishing. 

Aspic Jelly, Stock. 

Put a knuckle-bone of veal, a knuckle-bone of ham, a calPs foot, a 
large onion with four cloves stuck in, one large carrot, and a bunch 
of savory herbs, in two quarts of water, and boil gently till it is 
reduced rather more than half; strain, and put it aside to cool. 
Yery carefully remove every particle of fat or sediment, and place 
the jelly in a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a tablespoonful 
of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the whites of two eggs; 
keep stirring until it nearly boils, which may be known by its 
becoming white; then draw it back and let it simmer gently for 
fifteen or twenty minutes; put on the cover, let it stand to settle, 
and strain through a jelly bag until it is quite clear. Put it into a 
mold. 

Bechamel Sauce. 

As white stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be pre- 
pared first. Boil down an old fowl, two or three pounds of the 
knuckles of veal and three of very lean hjun, with four carrots, two 
onions, one blade of mace, some white pepper-corns, two table- 
spoonfuls of salt and an ounce of butter, in four or five quarts of 
"water. Cut up the fowl and veal, and put them with the ham ':^ 



308 SOUPS. SAUCES, A^sD FOllCEMEATS. 

simincr in a small quantity of water till tlio juices are extracted; 
then put in the full quantity of water, about three and one-half 
quarts, to the other ingredients. Let the liquid simmer fzoni four 
to five hours; skim and strain till clear, when it is ready for the 
bechamel. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot with a pint of cream, 
and when well blended, let it simmer in a carefully cleaned pan for 
four or five minuics. Make one pint of the stock hot and pour it 
to the cream; simmer slowly for ten minutes, or until it thickens. 
If too thick, add a little stock. 

Anchovy Sauce. 
An easy way of making anchovy sauce is to stir two or three 
teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste of anchovy (which may 
be bought at your grocers) into a pint of melted butter; let the 
3auce boil a few minutes and flavor with lemon-juice. 

Bread Sauce. 

Take one pint of white stock; boil Avith an onion, a little macey 
pepper-corns and salt; strain and pour it over six ounces of bread 
crumbs; boil for ten minutes and add three tablespoonfuls of 
cream. 

Bkown Sauce. 

Melt two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and add one ounce 
of flour, stirring until it is of a brown color. Then add sufficient 
boiling stock to render it of a cream-like consistency, and season to 
taste with salt and pepper. 

Cucumber Sauce. 

Take three young cucumbers, slice them rather thickly, and fry 
them in a little butter till they are lightly browned; dredge them 
with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer them till tender 
in as much good brown gravy as will cover them. White sauce or 
melted butter may be substituted for the gravy if these are more 
suitable to the dish with which the cucumber sauce is to be served. 
Time, about a quarter of an hour to simmer the cucumbers. 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 309 

Chili Sauce. 
Twelve ripe tomatoes, pared, two large peppers, chopped fine, 
one large onion, chopped fine, two cups of vinegar, one tablespoon, 
ful salt, one cup brown sugar, one teaspoonful each of allspice, 
nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Boil all together. 

Caper Sauce. 
Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour; mix 
well; pour on boiling water until it thickens; add one hard-boiled 
egg^ chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls of capers. 

Celery Sauce. 
Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, melt it, and add two 
heads of celery cut up into inch pieces; stir the celery in the pan 
till it is quite tender^ add salt and pepper, with a little mace. Mix 
a tablespoonful of flour in a cup of stock and simmer half an hour. 
A cup of cream may be used instead of stock. 

Egg Sauce. 

Take yolks of two eggs, boiled hard; mash them with a table- 
spoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar, and three of salad oil. A tablespoonful of catsup 
improves this for some. This sauce is very nice for boiled fish- 

Fisn Sauce, 
One-quarter of a pound of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of 
finely-chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice of two 
lemons. Cream the butter; mix all well together. 

The Hollandaise Sauce. 
For one pint: one tablespoonful of salt, same of butter and flour; 
put them in a saucepan and put over the fire, and stir until the 
butter is melted. Add gradually one pint of hot water, about half 
a cup at a time, and stir each time for a minute while it is boiling; 
season with white pepper, nutmegs, and make sure it is cooked. 



310 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

One great difficulty with sauces is thoy are raw. This makes the 
white sauce, which is the basis of many sauces. Add the yolks of 
two or three eggs, one tahlespoonful of lemon-juice, or vinegar; 
three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. These may be added by putting 
them together in a separate dish and dipping a few spoonfuls of 
the white sauce upon them and stirring thoroughly, and then pour- 
ing back into the sauce. In this consistency the sauce makes a fine 
dressing for lobster or chicken salad. This sauce is suitable for 
any kind of boiled fish. 

Hot Sauce for Meats. 

Four onions, two cups of sugar, thirty-two tomatoes, one quart 
of vinegar, four peppers, two tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoon- 
fuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of cloves, three tablespoonfuls 
of red pepper; cook, strain and bottle. 

Horse-Radisii Sauce. 

Two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, two of white sugar, half a 
teaspoonful of salt and a gill of vinegar; mix and pour over 
gi-ated horse-radish. Excellent with beef. 

Mushroom Sauce. 

To make a pint of mushi-oom sauce for the fillet of beef, use one 
tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; put over the fire and stir 
Txntil brown. Then put in half a pint of water or chicken broth 
and half a pint of essence of mushroom or the liquor found in a can 
of mushrooms; stir till the sauce is perfectly smooth, season with a 
saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Put 
in the mushrooms and boil two minutes; take oif, put in "• cjlass of 
sherry or Madeira wine, and pour around the fillet of beef. 

Mint Sauce. 

Mix one tablespoonful of white sugar to half a cup of good vin- 
egar; add the mint and let it infuse for half an hour before sending 
to the table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 311 

Mustard Sauce. 
One cup of sugar, one cup of vinegar, one tablespoonful of but- 
ter, four eggs and one tablespoonful of mustard; beat the eggs 
well; mix all together; turn into a new tin pail or basin and boil in 
water same as custard, only to a cream, not thick. Strain through 
a thin cloth and it is done. 

Prepared Mustard. 

Two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one of flour; mix thoroughly 

while dry. Have a cup two-thirds full of strong vinegar ; fill with 

water, stir the flour and mustard into it and let it boil until as thick 

as custard; remove from the fire and add a tablesjDoonful of sugar. 

Made Mustard. 

Pour a very little boiling water over three tablespoonfuls of 
mustard; add one saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of olive oil, 
stirred slowly in, and one tablespoonful of sugar; add the yolk of 
an egg; beat well together, and pour in vinegar to taste. It is best 
eaten next day. 

Mayonnaise Sauce. 

A mixture of egg yolks, oil, vinegar or lemon-juice. The prin- 
cipal point to be attended to in preparing this sauce is the mode of 
mixing, which demands time, patience and care. Break the yolk 
of a fresh egg into a bowl with a saltspoonful of pepper and 
salt mixed. Beat it till thick, then add from time to time 
during the mixing, two or three drops of the best olive oil until 
about four ounces have been used and the mixture is thick and 
.yellow. When eight teaspoonfuls of oil have been used, stir in one 
teaspoonful of white wine vinegar, and continue adding oil and 
vinegar in these proportions until all the oil is used. The yolk of 
one egg would be sufiicient for a pint of oil and vinegar in propor- 
tion. The addition of a few drops of lemon-juice makes mayon- 
naise look creamy. Mayonnaise will keep a long time if bottled 
closely and kept in a cool place. 



•312 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMKATS. 

MaITUK i/JIoTKI, JiuTTKR. 

Knead together (on a })late witli the })oint of a knife) equal 
quantities of chopped parsley and fresli Latter, Add pepjjcr, salt 
And a little lemon-juice. Keep in a cool place. When a dish is 
*aid to be a la Maitre d'llotel it is generally served with this butter. 

Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 
Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a small enameled saucepan, 
and stir to it, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of Hour; continue stir- 
fMig five or ten miinites, until tlu> butter and flour are well blended, 
when add, also by degrees, a quarter of a pint of boiling cream and 
ft quarter of a pint of good veal stock, also boiling; add a U'w 
epoonfuls of each at a time and stir well, allowing the saui-e to 
simmer a minute or two between each addition. When jjcrfi'ctly 
smooth, put in the strained juice of a lemon, or, if preferred, a 
tablespoonful of Chili vini'gar, a little pepper, a pinch of salt, and 
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. The yolks of two eggs are a 
great improvi'incnt to this sauce, and are almost necessary when it 
is served with fish; but in that case only half the quantity of flour 
phould be used, as the eggs help to thicken it. 

Oyster Sauce. 
Prepare some nice drawn butter; scald the oysters in a little 
Abater and mix them with the butter; mix well and let tlie sauce 
<ome nearly to a boil, after which serve with oyster crackers. 

Old CiTRRANT Sauce for Venison". 
Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of Avater, a few 
minutes; add a small cup of bread crumbs, six cloves, a glass of 
port wine and a bit of butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth. 

Piquant Sauce. 
Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a small saucepan over a 
moderate fire. Throw in a tablespoonful of chop])cd onions, and 
8tir them about for two minutes, sprinkle a teaspoonful of flour over 



SOUPS, SAUCES. AND FORCEMEATS. .313 

them, and beat it witli a wooden or iron spoon to prevent it from 
getting into lumps. Add lialf a pint of sIo<;k or l)i-otli, a small 
buneli of parsley, a sjjrig of thynie, a l):.y leaf, and a quarter of a 
teaspoonful of Cayenne. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then 
lift out the herbs, pour in half a wineglassful of vinegar, and add a 
little pepper and salt if required; let all boil up together and serve. 

Tomato Sauce. 
Nine ripe tomatoes, i)eeled and cut small, red pepper chopped 
fine, one cup of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls In-own sugar, one table- 
spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful ginger, one of cloves, one of all- 
spice; put vinegar in last; stew one hour. 

Almond Forcemeat. 
Beat up the yolks of three eggs with a quarter of a pint of good 
cream, and flavor with a little nutmeg. Blanch and pound in a 
mortar three ounces of sweet almonds, using white of egg to 
moisten. Add these with three-cpiarters of a pound of light bread 
crumbs, and three ounces of butter broken into small bits, to the 
€gg mixture. Stir in, lastly, the whites of the egga whisked to a 
«olid froth, and fill either capon or turkey. 

Forcemeat Balls. 
Chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a little lemon peel, and 
parsley. Mix with a basin of bread crumbs, and flavor with pep- 
per, salt, and nutmeg. Moisten with the yolks of two eggs, roll in 
flour, and make up into small balls. Bake in a hot oven, or fry till 
crisp. This recipe will do for fowls. The addition of a little ham, 
chopped or pounded, will be found a considerable improvement. 

Chestnut Forcemeat. 
Remove the outer skin from some chestnuts (they should be rip^ 
and sound). Boil them for two or three minutes to get off tho 
inner skin. Peel them, and to preserve their color throw them into 
cold water; drain and weigh them. Stew six ounccis of them 
gently for about twenty minutes in veal gravy. Let them getcold^ 



314 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

pound them till smooth with an equal quantity of butter, or half 
their weight in fat bacon, and add two ounces of bread crumbs, and 
a little salt, lemon rind, and nutmeg. Bind the mixture together 
with the unbeaten yolks of two eggs. If this forcemeat is formed 
into cakes, these should be dipped into flour before being fried. 

Forcemeat for Fish, Soups and Stews. 

jr*ound the flesh of a medium-sized lobster, half an anchovy, a. 
piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, salt, pepper, 
and Cayenne to taste. Mix these with a tablespoonful of bread 
crumbs, two ounces of butter, and two of raw eggs. Make into 
small balls, and fry a pale brown in butter. Two or three oystera 
may be added. 

Forcemeat for Game. 

Take the livers of the game and pound them with half their 
weight of beef suet and good fat bacon, mixed together; season 
with salt, pepper, and ground cloves. Use a little of the meat of 
the game if enough of the livers cannot be obtained; moisten with 
cream, and bind with the yolks of two eggs. If the forcemeat be 
required stiff, stew over a gentle fire, keeping it constantly stirred 
\intil the proper consistency is gained. 

Forcemeat for Turkeys. 
Take equal quantities of lean veal and pork, and mince them finely 
together; also cut into pieces a parboiled veal sweetbread, and mix 
with about three-quarters of a pound of each of the former meats. 
Add half a pound of bread, soaked, and the same amount of warm 
butter. Flavor with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper and half an ounce 
of grated lemon rind. Bind with three beaten eggs, and fill the 
turkey. 

Mushroom Forcemeat. 

Procure four ounces of young, fresh mushrooms. - Peel them, cut 
off the stems. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and let 
them simmer very gently over a slow fire, with a slight flavoring of 
mace and Cayenne. Spread them over a dish placed in a slanting 



SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATa 315 

position to drain away the moisture. When cold mince them, and 
add four ounces of fine bread crumbs, a small seasoning of salt, 
Cayenne, mace, and nutmeg, a piece of butter, the yolks of two 
eggs. Put in as much of the mushroom gravy as will make the 
forcemeat of the proper consistency. Make into balls, poach and 
throw into soup; or fry, and serve round a dish of roast fowl or 
aninced veal. It is also a good stuffing for boiled fowls. 

Oystee Forcemeat. 
Get fresh oysters and cut them into quarters. Grate bread 
enough to fill half a pint, and one ounce and a half of finely shred 
suet or butter, which should be broken into bits. Mix all these 
ingredients together with a good flavoring of herbs, and a seasoning 
of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Add two well-beaten eggs. 
This forcemeat is for boiled or roast tui-key. It may be made iito 
balls and used as a garnish. Twenty oysters avc sullicient fo»' ^ne 
turkey. 



CHAPTER XXIII, 

bcgctablcs. 



^-'?fe 



SI VERY fine article on the cooking of vegetables 
^M^ is written by Miss Carson; we give it as follows: 
||J|r Spinacli is an excellent disli wlien well cooked; 
^^^ take two quarts, wash, boil for two minutes in 
p|P|^salted boiling water, drain, chop and heat in a 
^p|K frying-pan for two minutes with an ounce each of 
^^^'^ butter and flour; half a pint of meat broth is 
_^ ^^^ added, the compound is stirred and heated for 
t-^c^v "" ^yg minutes, and served with small pieces of 
fried bread. Second only to spinach are beet sprouts; we all 
know them boiled, but after they are boiled they gain in flavor by 
being fried for two or three minutes in butter. New cabbage 
scalded for five minutes in fast boiling water, coarsely chopped, 
sprinkled with flour, salt and pepper, and gently shewed for five 
minutes with milk or cream enough to cover it, is good. So, 
too, is red cabbage sliced, thrown for fifteen minutes into scalding 
salted water and vinegar, then drained and fried five minutes 
with butter, and served with a little hot meat gravy. Lettuce, 
which seems devoted to "salad days," is excellent stuffed; it is 
well washed in salted cold water, the roots trimmed off, two table- 
spoonfuls of cooked force-meat of any kind, or chopped cold meat 
highly seasoned, inclosed within the leaves, which are bound 
together with tape or strips of cloth; several heads thus prepared 
are placed in a saucepan, covered with broth or cold gravy well 
seasoned, and set over the fire to simmer about five minutes; the 
tapes are then removed and the lettuce heads and sauce are served 
hot. A link between cabbage and lettuce are Brussels sprouts, 

316 



VEGETABLES. 317' 

tbose tender, baby cabbages, which, stewed in cream, or quickly- 
fried in butter, almost incline one's thoughts to vegetarianism. 

Beets are familiar enough boiled and sliced, either served hot 
with butter, pepper and salt, or pickled, but a novelty is a beet 
pudding, made by mixing a pint of cooked sugar beets, chopped, 
with four eggs, a quart of milk, a little salt and popper, a lablo- 
spoonful of butter, and baking them about half an hour. Cold boiled 
beets sliced and fried with butter are jjalatable; to cook them so 
that none of their color shall be lost, carefully wash them without 
breaking the skin or cutting off the roots or stalks, and boil them 
until tender, about an hour, in boiling salted water. 

Turnips, either white or yelloAV, stewed in gravy, are excellent.. 
Choose a quart of small, even size; peel them; boil fifteen minutes in. 
well salted boiling water; drain them; put them into a frying-pan, 
with sufficient butter to prevent burning; brown them; stir in a. 
tablespoonful of flour; cover them with hot water; add a palatable- 
seasoning of salt and pepper, and stew them gently until tender. , 
Or peel and cut them in small regular pieces; brown them over the 
fire with a little butter and a slight sprinkling of sugar; add salt 
and pepper and boiling water enough to cover them, and gently stew 
them until tender; serve them hot. 

Parsnips are not sufficiently appreciated, perhaps because of their 
too sweet taste; but this can be overcome to a palatable extent by 
judicious cookery; they are excellent when sliced, after boiling, and 
warmed in a sauce made by mixing flour, butter and milk, over the 
fire, and seasoning it with salt and pepper; as soon as warm they 
are served with a little chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon 
juice. For parsnips fried brown in an old-fashioned iron pot with 
slices of salt pork and a seasoning of salt and pepper, several good 
words might be said. 

Carrots boiled and mashed and warmed with butter, pepper and 
salt deserve to be known; or sliced and quickly browned in butter; 
or tossed for five minutes over the fire with chopped onion, parsley, 
butter, seasonings and sufficient gravy to moisten them; or boiIed»^ 



318 VEGETABLES. 

quartered, heated witli cream, seasoned, and, at the moment ©f 
serving, thickened with the yolk of eggs. 

Onions are capital when sliced and quickly fried in plenty of 
smoking hot fat, or roasted whole until tender, and served with 
l)utter, pepper and salt; or chosen while still small, carefully peeled 
without breaking, browned in butter, and then simmered tender with 
just boiling water enough to cover them; or boiled tender in broth 
and then heated Hve minutes in nicely seasoned cream. 

Oyster plant, scraped under cold water, boiled tender in salted 
-water containing a trace of vinegar, and then heated with a little 
highly seasoned melted butter, is excellent; the tender leaves which it 
often bears make a nice salad. Somewhat like oyster plant are 
Jerusalem artichokes, which are good and cheap in this market. 
Like oyster plant, they must be peeled under water, boiled tender, 
and then served with melted butter, or quickly browned in butter, 
either plain or with chopped herbs, or served with an acid sauce of 
any kind. 

Celery we know best in its uncooked state, but it is very good 
stewed in any brown or white gravy or sauce, or rolled in fritter 
batter and fried brown. 

Squash and pumpkin are very good either boiled, sliced, and 
"broiled or fried, or made into fritters like oyster plant. 

Potatoes, most important of all hardy vegetables. Lives there 
a cook with soul so dead as not to be willing to expend all the 
powers of fire, water and salt to produce mealy potatoes ? If so, 
the writing of her epitaph would be a cheerful task. And if 
cold ones are left they can rehabilitate themselves in favor by 
appearing chopped, moistened with white sauce or cream, and 
either fried in butter or baked quickly, with a covering of 
^jread crumbs. Steam-fried, that is sliced raw, put into a covered 
pan over the fire, with butter and seasoning, and kept covered 
until tender, with only enough stirring to prevent burning, they are 
capital. To fry them Lyonnaise style they are cooled in their 
jackets to keep them whole, sliced about a quarter of an inch 



VEGETABLES. 319 

thick, browned in butter with a little sliced onion, sprinkled with 
chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and served hot. Larded, they 
have bits of fat ham or bacon inserted in them, and are baked 
tender. Note well that the more expeditiously a baked potato is 
cooked and eaten the better it will be. 

Boiling is the ordinary mode of cooking vegetables. The rule is 
to throw them (whether the roots, flowers, foliage, or unripe seeds) 
into cold water, after trimming or other preparation; to let them 
lie there, if shriveled or drooping, until they have recovered their 
natural crispness; then to throw them into soft water, or, if hard 
water, made soft by the addition of a small pinch of carbonate of 
soda; to keep them boiling without the lid (with roots this is imma- 
terial, though it is one means of keeping greens a good color);, to 
remove all scum as it rises; to cook them enough; and to take them 
np as soon as they are done through, instead of leaving them to 
seethe, and lose their natural juices in the water. 

To this there are exceptions. Peas and beans may be thrown 
into cold water when they are dried, but when green are best no^ 
thrown into cold water; and the former should be boiled in tho 
least quantity of water possible. Potatoes require different treat- 
ment, according to their kind and the soil in which they grew. 
Very mealy or large potatoes, if thrown into boiling water, will fall 
to pieces outside, while still raw in the center; while small, firm, or 
waxy varieties are best thrown into boiling salt water. If you buy 
of the grower, he will often tell you what treatment suits them. 
At any rate, an experiment both ways will soon settle the difficulty 
But the qualities of potatoes vary, not only with soil and kind, 
but also with the period in the season. We have known potatoes, 
waxy and watery when first dug up, become light and floury in 
February and March, after the eyes have sprouted three or four 
inches. The reason is plain: Superabundant moisture had becD 
drawn off, and the starch, which forms one of its component ele- 
ments, had had time to mature itself. 



320 VEGETABLES. 

How TO Cooiv Potatoes. 
It is well known tliat a good potato may be spoiled by bad cookr 
ing; and by good management a bad one may be rendered com- 
paratively good. In fact, no vegetable depends more on the cooking- 
than a potato. In the first place, if the skin is taken off them 
before boiling, it should not be peeled, but scraped, for the follow- 
ing I'easons: If peeled, it is reduced in size considerably; besides, 
the outside removed is the very best part of the root. An iron 
saucepan is preferable to a tin one for cooking them, as it prevents 
their boiling so fast; but the best way is, first to Avash them very 
clean, then to put them on the fire with just cold water enough to 
cover them; when it has begun to boil, throw in a handful of salt, 
and add a pint of cold water, which checks their boiling and gives 
them time to be done through, without allowing them to crack. 
As soon as done, rather under than over, which may be ascertained 
with a fork, pour the water off from them, and replace the pan on 
the fire for a short time, until the remaining moisture is evaporated. 
If not immediately wanted, do not place the lid upon them, or the 
steam will be confined, but cover them with a cloth. Xew potatoes 
require great caution not to over-boil them, or they will be tasteless 

and watery. 

Artichokes (Jerusalem), Fried. 

Pare and cut the artichokes into slices about an eighth of an inch 
in thickness, and fry them in sufficient boiling oil or lard for them 
to swim in until they are a rich brown. StrcAV a little salt over 
them, pile high on a dish, and send to the table hot. 

They may also be peeled and cut pear-shaped and stewed in a 
little salt water, to which a little butter has been added, and used 
as a garnish for a dish of mashed potatoes. 

Asparagus, Boiled. 
Choose bunches of asparagus which have been cut fresh and the 
heads sti'aight. If the cut end is brown and dry, and the heads 
bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept a day or 



VEGETABLES. ^{-I 

two with the stalks in cold water, but is much better fresh. Scrape 
off the white skin from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal 
length; let thera lie in cold water until it is time to cook them; put 
a handful of salt into a gallon of water, and let it boil; tie the 
asparagus into bundles and put them into it; toast a slice of bread 
brown on each side, dip it in the water, and lay it on a dish. When 
the asparagus is sufficiently cooked, dish it on the toast, leaving the 
white ends outward each way. Serve with melted butter. 

Asparagus, Fricasseed. 
Wash twenty-five heads of asparagus, cut off the tender portion 
and lay thera into cold water until they are required. Drain them 
and chop them with a young head of lettuce, half a head of endive 
and a small onion. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a 
saucepan, melt it, then mix with it smoothly a dessert-spoonful of 
flour, and half a pint of stock. Add the chopped vegetables, with 
pepper and salt, and let all stew gently until the sauce is thick anJ 
good. Serve hot. Time to stew, half an hour. 

Egg Broccoli. 

Take half a dozen heads of broccoli, cut off the small shoots or 
blossoms and lay them aside for frying; trim the stalks short and 
pare off the rough rind up to the head; wash them well, and lay 
them in salt water for an hour; then put them into plenty of boil- 
ing water (salted) and let them boil fast till quite tender. Put two 
ounces of butter into a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it is 
melted; then add gradually six or eight well-beaten eggs, and stir 
the mixture until it is thick and smooth. Lay the broccoli in the 
center of a large dish, pour the egg around it, and having fried the 
broccoli blossoms, arrange them in a circle near the edge of the 
dish. 

Beets and Potatoes. 

One of the most delicious ways to serve these early vegetables is 
this: Take new potatoes and young beets, boil until done in sepa- 
rate kettles, then slice into the dish in which they uru to be put on 
21 



322 VEGETABLES. 

the table; first put a layer of potatoes, sprinkled with pepper and 
salt and little lumps of butter, then a layer of beets, treated in the 
same way, and so on until the dish is full, then pour over all a very 
little sweet cream or milk. 

Lima Beans. 
Shell, wash, and put into boiling water with a little salt; when 
boiled tender, drain and season them, and either dress with cream 
or large lump of butter, and let simmer for a few moments. 

String Beans. 

Choose fine young beans, and be careful they are the right sort. 
The best kind is the case-knife, because they have no strings and 
need only to be broken in two and not cut. Should these not be 
obtainable take the youngest that can be procured; remove the 
thread or string that runs along the pod, then cut them in a slanting 
direction lengthwise in very thin slices, throw them into boiling 
water Avell salted, and to jjreserve their color boil without the lid of 
the saucepan. When tender, drain in a colander, put in a small piece 
of butter and a dash of pepper, and give the whole a shake. This 
dish may be varied in a great many ways and with great success. 
Cold beans, with oil and vinegar, make an excellent and refreshing 
salad. They may also, when cooked and drained, be mixed with 
some good brown gravy, and served alone as a course after the 
meat. 

Brussels Sprouts. 

Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts. Put them into plenty 
of fast boiling water; add a tablespoonful of salt, keep the sauce- 
pan uncovered and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. Drain as 
soon as done and serve with melted butter. 

Stewed Carrots. 
Scrape and boil whole forty-five minutes. Drain and cut Into 
round slices a quarter of an inch thick. Put on a cup of weak 
broth — a little soup if you have it— and cook half an hour. Then 



VECICTAHI.KS. 323 

add three or four tablcfpoonfids of milk, a lump of butter rolled in 
ilour, witk seasoning to taste. Boil up and ditili. 

Celery. 
Wash, trim, and scrape the stalks, selecting those that are white 
and tender. Crisp by leaving in ice cold water until they are 
wanted for the table. Arrange neatly in a celery glass. Pas? 
between the oysters and the meat. 

FuiKj) Celery. 
Boil the celery entire until tender; drain it, divide into small 
pieces and fry in dripping until lightly browned. 

Stewed Celery. 
Clean the heads thoroughly. Take oflF the coarse, green, outer 
leaves. Cut in pmall pieces, ind stew in a little broth. When 
tender, add some rieli cr^am, a little flour, and butter enough to 
thicken the cream. Season with jre[tj>er, salt, and a little nutmeg 
if that is agreeable. 

Cream OAnnACE. 

Heat together the yolks of two I'ggs, one-half cup of sugar, one- 
Tialf cup of vinegar, butter size of an egg, salt and a little Cayenne 
pepper. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir until it boils; 
then stir in one cup of cream; let it boil, and pour over the cabbagd 
while hot. 

Cabbage a la Cauliflower. 

Cut the cabbage- fine as for slaw; put it into a stewpan, covci' 
with water and kec|> crlosely covered; when tender, drain off the 
water; put in a small piece of butter with a piece of salt, one-half 
a cup of cream, or one cup of milk. Leave on the stove a fe^V 
minutes before serving. 

Boiled Cabbage. 

Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, 
or, if large, quarter the cabbages; Avash them thoroughly and lay 



324 VEGETABLES. 

them for a few minutes in water, to which a tablespoonful of vin- 
egar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging 
under the leaves. Drain them in a colander; have ready a large 
pan of boiling hot water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a small 
piece of soda in it, and let the cabbage boil quickly until tender, 
leaving the saucepan uncovered. Take them up as soon as they are 
done, drain them thoroughly and serve. Time to boil: young sum- 
iner cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes; large cabbages, half an 

hour or more. 

Baked Cabbage. 

Cook as for boiled cabbage, after which drain and set aside until 

cold. Chop fine, add two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, 

pepper, salt, three tablespoonfuls rich cream; stir well and bake in 

a buttered dish until brown. Eat hot. 

Hot Slaw. 
One small, firm head of cabbage, shred fine, one cup of vinegar, 
one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls of sour cream, one-half teaspoonful of made mustard, one 
saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of salt. Put the vinegar and 
all the other ingredients for the dressing, except the cream, in a 
saucepan and heat to a boil; pour scalding hot over the cabbage; 
return to the saucepan, and stir and toss until all is smoking again; 
take from the fire, stir in the cream, turn into a covered dish and 
set in hot water ten minutes before you send to the table. 

Cauliflower. 
This favorite vegetable should be cut early, while the dew is still 
upon it; choose those that are close and white, and of medium size.' 
Whiteness is a sign of quality and freshness. Great care should be 
taken that there are no caterpillars about the stalk, and to insure 
this, lay the vegetable with its head downward in cold salt and 
water for an hour before boiling it; or, better still, in cold vinegar 
and water. Trim away the outer leaves, and cut the stalks quite 
close. Cauliflowers are in season from the middle of June till tte 
middle of November. 



VEGETABLES. 325 

Cauliflower a la Feancatse. 
After preparing as above, cut the cauliflower into quarters and 
put into a stewpan and boil until tender; drain and arrange it 
neatly on a dish. Pour over it melted butter. 

Cauliflower with Stuffing. 

Take a saucepan the exact size of the dish intended to be used. 
Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower and cut it into sprigs; throw 
those into boiling salt water for two minutes; then take them out, 
drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downwards, in the 
saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered 
with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing 
made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same of 
beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and 
salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced 
chives, and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these 
ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers, and pour over 
them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add 
sufficient nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently 
till the cauliflower are t.nder, and the sauce very much reduced; 
then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, 
and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture. 
Cauliflower with Sauce. 

Boil a large cauliflower — tied in netting — in hot salted water, 
from twenty-five to thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish 
with the flower upwards and pour over it a cup of drawn butter in 
fwhich has been stirred the juice of a lemon and a half teaspoonful 
of French mustard, mixed up well with the sauce. 
Corn, for WmTER Use. 

Cut the corn from the cob (raw) before it gets too hard; to each 
gallon of cut corn add two scant cups of salt, pack tightly in a jar 
(don't be afraid of getting the jar too large), cover with a white 
cloth, put a heavy weight to keep the corn under the brine whieh 



326 VEGETABLES. 

soon forms; now the most important part is to wash the cloth everr 
morning for two weeks, or the corn will taste queerly. If the corn 
is too salty, freshen before cooking. This is as good as canned 
corn, and is much easier put up. Put tomatoes in jugs and seal 
with good corks and sealing wax; get a large funnel, and you can 
put up as fast and as much as you please. 

Baked CoKiir. 
Grate one dozen ears sweet corn; one cup milk, small piece but- 
ter; salt, and bake in pudding dish one hour. 

Green Corn on the Cob. 
Take off the outside leaves and the silk, letting the innermost 
leaves remain on until after the eorn is boiled, which renders the 
corn much sweeter. Boil for half an hour in plenty of water, drain, 
and, after removing Xhe leaves, serve. 

Corn Oysters. 
Eight ears of sweet corn, grated; two cups of milk, three eggs, 
salt and pepper; flour enough to make a batter. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter into a frying pan and drop the mixture into the hot 
butter — a spoonful in a place; brown on both sides. Serve hot for 
breakfast or as a side dish for dinner. 

Stewed Corn. 
Stew one quart of canned corn in its own liquor, setting the 
vessel containing it in an outer one of hot water; should the corn 
be dry, add a little cold water; when tender, pour in enough milk 
to cover the corn, bring to a boil, and put in a tablespoonful of 
butter rolled in flour, and salt to taste. Stew gently, stirring well,'* 
three or four minutes and turn into a deep dish. Keep the vessel 
containing the corn closely covered while it is cooking; the steam, 
facilitates the process and preserves the color of the corn. 

Stewed Cucumbers. 
Cut the cucumbers fully half an inch thick right through; put 



VEGETABLES. 327 

them in a saucepan, just covering them with hot water, and let them 

boil slowly for a quarter of an hour, or until tender, but not so as 

to break them; then drain them; you want now a pint of good cream, 

and put your cream, with a teaspoonful of butter, in a saucepan, 

and when it is warm put in the cucumbers; season with a little salt 

and white pepper, cook five minutes, shaking the saucepan all the 

time, and serve hot. It is just as delicate as asparagus, and a very 

nice dish indeed. 

Celery. 

This vegetable imparts an agreeable and peculiar flavor to soups, 
sauces, etc. It is generally eaten raw, the brittle stalks with salt; 
but there are many ways in which it may be nicely prepared, and 
when cooked it is more digestible and equally palatable. When 
the roots are not to be had, the pounded seed is an excellent sub- 
stitute for flavoring. It is in season from October to February, and 
is better when it has been touched by the frost. 

Fried Celery. 
Cold boiled celery wiM answer for this purpose. Split the heads 
and dip them into cla:ihed batter, or dip them into a batter, and 
fry a light brown, GarnisU the dish prettily with parsley. 

Carrots. 
This vegetable should bo sorved with boiled beef. When tha 
carrots are young they should be washed and rubbed, not scraped, 
before cooking, then rubbed Avith a clean, coarse cloth after boiling. 
Young carrots need to be cooked about half an hour, and full grown 
ones from one hour and a half to two hours. They are excellenf 
for flavoring, and contain a great amount of nourisliment. 

Carrots Boiled, 
Wash and prepare the carrots. Throw them into plenty of 
boiling water with salt. Keep them boiling till tender, and serve 
with melted butter; or they may be boiled with beef and a few 
placed round the dish to garnish, and the rest sent to table in a 
tureen. 



328 VEGETABLES. 

Dandelions, 

Cut off the leaves, pick over carefully, wash thoroughly, put into 
boiling water and boil a half hour; drain well and put into salted 
boiling water and boil till tender. When done drain in a colander, 
season with butter, salt and pepper; or they may be boiled with 
ealt pork or corned beef, omitting the butter. They are good from 
early spring until they blossom. 

Endive Stewed. 

Strip off the outer green leaves from the heads of endive. Wash 
thoroughly, soak in salted water to dislodge the insects; then drain 
and boil for twenty-five minutes in water salted slightly. Have 
ready a stewpan with an ounce of butter, drain the endive and put 
it into the pan, and add a saltspoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of 
cream. Serve hot. 

Egg Plant. 

Pare and cut in slices half an inch thick; sprinkle with salt; cover 
and let stand for an hour. Rinse in clear cold water; wipe each 
slice dry; dip first in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread 
crumbs. Season with pepper and salt, and fry brown in butter. 

Egg Plant, No. 2. 

Boil until quite tender, then mash and add bread crumbs, pepper, 
salt, onions and butter or lard; put in a pan and bake until brown. 
You can put in all these things to your own taste, then you can 
boil and mash as before; season with salt and pepper, and add a 
little flour or meal as you like best. Make into little cakes and fry. 
These are nice. They should be picked when full grown, but 
before they are ripe. 

Fricasseed Egg Plant. 

Having peeled and sliced the egg plants, boil them in water with 
a saltspoonful of salt, until they are thoroughly cooked. Drain off 
the water, pour in sufficient milk to cover the slices, and add a feW 



VEGETABLES. 320 

bits of butter rolled in flour; let it simmer gently, shaking the pan 
over the fire till the sauce is thick, and stir in the beaten yolks of 
two or three eggs just before it is served. 

Stuffed Egg Plants. 
Halve and parboil. When soft enough to stick with a fork 
remove from the water and let cool. Then cut out the inside, being 
careful not to break the skin. Next take bread that has been 
previously soaked in water. Squeeze as dry as possible and mix 
with the pulp of the vegetable. Add to tha,t a good sized tomato, 
the juice of an onion, a little parsley and two or three eggs, season 
with pepper and salt, and the filling is ready for use. Before 
putting into the stove sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs. An- 
other and quicker way to make the stufllng is to mix the pulp with 
the juice of an onion, a tomato and a couple of eggs. Thicken with 
boiled rice and season to taste. 

Garlic. 
Garlic requires to be used most judiciously, or it will spoil what- 
ever is cooked with it. If used carefully, however, it will impart a 
most delicious flavor to salads and sauces; but it is so strong that, 
for many dishes, all that is necessary is to rub the dish which is to 
be sent to table sharply round with a slice of it; or, better still, to 
rub it on a crust of bread, and put the bread into the soup, etc., for 
a few minutes. A very general prejudice exists against garlic, 
probably on account of its being used in the same way as an onion. 
If it is desired to diminish the strength of the flavor, this may be 
done by boiling the garlic in two or three waters. 

Greens, Stewed. 
Take a bunch of fresh greens, wash in several waters; drain thenj 
well and throw them into plenty of fast boiling water, salted and 
skimmed, and boil them for ten minutes. Take them up, press the 
water from them, and throw them into cold Avater for half an hour; 
drain them, cover with stock, and add a bunch of herbs, an onion. 



330 VEGETABLES. 

one clove, a slice of fat bacon, and a little pepper and salt. Stew 
very gently until tender. Serve with mutton, lamb, or veal. 

HOESE-BADISH AS GaRNISH. 

Wash and scrub the horse-radish thoroughly; let it lie for an hour 
in cold water; their scrape it very finely with a sharp knife; arrange 
it in little bunches around the dish, or, if there is gravy with the 
meat, put it in a small glass dish near the carver. 

Lettuce. 
There are two f?orts of lettuces, the cabbage and the cos. They 
>re chiefly used for salad, but may be also boiled or stewed, and 
tjcrved as a vegetable. They may be had all the year, but are in 
full season from April to September. 

Lettuce, Stuffed. 

Wash four or five large heads of lettuce; boil them in plenty of 
Bait and water for fifteen minutes; throw them at once into cold 
water, and afterwards let them drain. Open them, fill them with 
good veal forcemeat, tie the ends securely, and put them into a 
stewpan with as much good gravy as will cover them, a teaspoonf ul 
of salt, half a teaspoonf ul of pepper, and a teaspoonf ul of vinegar. 
Simmer gently for another fifteen minutes, remove the strings^ 
place them on a hot dish, and pour the gravy around them. 

Macaroni. 
Three long sticks of macaroni, broken in small pieces; soak in a 
pmt of milk two hours; grate bread and dried cheese. Put a layer 
of macaroni in a pudding dish; add pepper, salt and butter; then 
sprinkle the bread and cheese crumbs over it, and so continue until 
the dish is filled. Bake until brown. 

Macaroni as a Vegetable. - 
Simmer one-half pound of macaroni in plenty of water till tender, 
but not broken; strain off the water. Take the yolks of five and 
the whites of two eggs, one-half pint of cream, white meat and ham 



VEGETABLES. 331 

chopped very fine, three spoonfuls of grated cheese; season with 

salt and pepper; heat all together, stirring constantly. Mix with 

the macaroni; put into a buttered mold and steam one hour. 

y^ Macaroni with Oysters. 

/ Boil macaroni in salt water, after which draw through a colander; 

/ take a deep earthen dish or tin; put in alternate layers of macaroni 

( and oysters; sprinkle the layers of macaroni with grated cheese^ 

V„„3a;ke until brown. 

Macaroni with Tomatoes. 

Boil one-half pound of macaroni till tender, pour off all the 
water, then add one-half cup sweet cream, one-third of a cup of 
butter, pepper and salt; let simmer for a short time, but be careful 
that it does not become much broken; turn into vegetable dish;, 
have ready one pint stewed tomatoes, season with butter, salt and 
pepper, pour over the macaroni. 

Stewed Macaroni. 
Boil two ounces of macaroni in water, and drain well; put into a 
saucepan one ounce of butter, mix with one tablespoonful of flour, 
moisten with four tablespoonf uls of veal or beef stock, one gill of 
cream, salt and white pepper to taste; put in the macaroni, let it 
boil up, and serve while hot. 

Boiled Onions. 

Skin them thoroughly. Put them to boil; when they have boiled 
a few minutes, pour off the water and add clean cold water, and set 
them to boil again. Pour this away, and add more cold water, 
when they may boil till done. This will make them white and 
clear, and very mild in flavor. After they are done, pour off all the 
water, and dress with a little cream; salt and pepper to taste. 

Boil in two waters, drain, and if they are large, cut into quarters 
and pour over them a cup of scalding milk in which a pinch of soda, 
has been stirred; set over the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, 
half teaspoonful corn starch wet with milk, a little minced parsleyj, 
with pepper and salt. Simmer and pour out. 



•332 VEGETABLES. 

Boiled Okra. 
Put the younjy and tender pods of long, white okra into salted 
'boiling water in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan (as iron discolors 
it), boil fifteen minutes, take off stems, and serve with butter, 
pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred; or, after boiling, slice in 
rings, season with butter, dip in batter and fry; season and serve; 
or stew an equal quantity of tomatoes and tender sliced okra, and 
one or two sliced green peppers; stew in porcelain kettle fifteen 
•or twenty minutes, season with butter, pepper and salt and serve. 

OxiON Ormoloo. 
Peel ten or twelve large white onions, steep them an hour in cold 
watez-j then boil them soft. Mash them with an equal quantity of 
boiled white potatoes, adding half a pint of milk and two or three 
well-beaten eggs. Stir the mixture very hard, season it with 
nutmeg, pepper and salt, and bake it in a quick oven; when half 
done pour a little melted butter or gravy over the top. 

Scalloped Onions. 

Boil till tender six large onions ; afterward separate them with a 
large spoon; then place a layer of onion and a layer of grated bread 
crumbs alternately in a pudding dish; season with pepper and salt 
to taste; moisten with milk; put into the oven to brown. 

Wash but do not peel the onions; boil one hour in boiling water 
slightly salt, changing the water twice in the time; when tender, 
drain on a cloth, and roll each in buttered tissue paper, twisted at 
the top, and bake an hour in a slow oven. Peel and brown them; 
eerve with melted butter. 

Vegetable Oyster. 
One bunch of oysters; boil and mash. One pint sour milk, half 
a teaspoonful soda; flour to make a batter; add two eggs, beaten, 
and the oysters. Fry in hot lard — drop in spoonfuls. 



VEGETABLES. 333: 

Mock Stewed Oysters. 
One bunch oyster plant, eight teaspociifuls butter, a little flour 
or corn starch, vinegar and water for boiling, pepper and salt, one- 
half cup milk. Wash and scrape the oyster plant very carefully; drop 
into weak vinegar and water, bring quickly to a boil, and cook ten 
minutes; turn off the vinegar water; rinse the salsify in boiling 
water; throw this out and cover with more from the tea-kettle; stew 
gently ten minutes longer; add pepper and salt and two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter; stew in this until tender. Meanwhile heat in a, 
farina kettle the milk, thicken, add the remaining butter, and keep/ 
dry until the salsify is done, then transfer it to this sauce; pepper 
and salt; let all lie together in the inner kettle, the water in the 
outer at a slow boil, for five minutes; pour into a covered dish. 

Parsley. 
The foliage of parsley is of use in flavoring soups, etc.; it itf= 
nutritious and stimulating. 

Crisp Parsley. 
This is used for garnishing dishes. « Pick and wash young parsley, 
shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, and spread it on a sheet of 
clean paper and put in the oven. Turn the bunches frequently 
until they are quite crisp. Parsley is much more easily crisped' 
than fried. 

Parsley, Fried. 
Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly; put it into hot fat and let 
it remain until it is crisp; take it out immediately and drain it in a 
colander. If the parsley is allowed to remain in the fat one moment 
after it is crisp it will be spoiled. Parsley is best fried in a frying 
basket. 

Parsnips. 

Parsnips may be dressed in the same way as carrots, which thej^ 
very much resemble. When boiled, they are generally served with 
boiled meat, or boiled salt fish; when fried, with roast mutton, U 



.334 VEGETABLES. 

young, they require only to be washed and sci*aped before they are 

boiled. If old and large, the skin must be pared off, and the roots 

cut into quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent to the table 

together It should be remembered that parsnips are more quit^ly 

"boiled than carrots. 

Fried Paesnips. 

Boil until tender in hot water slightly salted; let them get almost 
cold, scrape off the skin, and cut in thick, long slices; dredge witk 
fleur and fry in hot dripping, turning as they brown; drain very dry 
in a hot colander; pepper and salt to serve. 

Parsnip Stew. 
Three slices of salt pork, boil one hour and a half; scrape five 
large parsnips, cut in quarters lengthwise, add to the pork and let 
boil one-half hour, then add a few potatoes, and let all boil together 
until the potatoes are soft; the fluid in the kettle should be about 
a cupful when ready to take off. 

Canned Pease. 

Open a can of pease an hour before cooking them, that there may 
be no musty, airless taste about them, and turn into a bowl. When 
ready for them, put on a farina-kettle — or one saucepan within 
another — of hot water. If dry, add cold Avater to cover them, and 
stew about twenty-five minutes; drain, stir in a generous lump of 
butter; pepper and salt. 

French Way of Cooking Pease. 

Put your pease in a nice dish, whei-e they will not turn black in 
cooking. Cut up fine one small head of lettuce; put in a few sprigs 
of parsley, tied up; salt and pepper; enough of water to cover the 
pease. Cook gently until tender, one and three-quarters of an hour, 
then drain off most of the water; dissolve one full teaspoonful of 
flour in water and stir in; add one-half tablespoonful of butter, 
one-half cup of sweet milk and one lump of sugar; cook about ten 
minutes; just before serving stir in one yolk of an egg, previously 
ibeaten with a little water. 



VEGETABLES. 335 

No. 2. — Put some thin slices of bacon in a skillet and brown a 
little on both sides; then put in your i:)ease, with one large onion cut 
in four, one head of lettuce, and a few sprigs of parsley, tied up, 
water enough to cover them; salt and pepjjer (not much salt, as the 
bacon salts them); cook one hour. Ten minutes before serving 
sprinkle a little flour to thicken the gravy. Remove the bunch oi 
lettuce and parsley. 

Gkeen Pease. 

Boil a quart of young, freshly-gathered pease in slightly salted 
water until they are tender; then drain them in a colander. Melt 
two ounces of fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with a dessert- 
spoonful of flour, and add very gradually a cuj) of thick cream, 
or, failing this, use new milk. When the sauce boils, put in the 
pease, stir them until they are quite hot, and serve immediately. 

Potato Balls. 
Bake the potatoes, mash them very nicely, make them into balls, 
rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and put them in the oven 
or before the fire to brown. These balls may be varied by the 
introduction of a third portion of grated ham or tongue. 

Bkowtsted Potatoes. 
While the meat is roasting, and an hour before it is served, boil 
the potatoes and take off their skins; flour them well, and put them 
under the meat, taking care to dry them from the drippings before 
they are sent to the table. Kidney potatoes are best dressed in 
this way. The flouring is very essential. They should always be 
boiled a little before being put into stews, as the first water in 
which they are cooked is thought to be of a poisonous quality. 
Potatoes when boiled, if old, should be peeled and put whole upon 
the gridiron until nicely broAvned. 

English Potato Balls. 
Boil some potatoes very dry; mash them as smoothly as possible; 
season well with salt and pepper; warm them, with an ounce of 



•'^•>« VEGETABLES. 

butter to every pound of potatoes, and a few spoonfuls of goo^ 

cream; let thein cool a littk', roll thein into balls; sprinkle over 

tliem some crushed vermicelli or macaroni, and fry them a light 

brown. 

Southern Baked Potatoes. 

Parboil, or take the cold ones left over from dinner; place in a 

deep pie pan; between each layer sprinkle sugar; over the top drop 

small drops of butter and more sugar, about one small cup of sugar 

and one spoonful of butter to a plate of potatoes. Then pour over 

all one-half cup of butter and set in oven to bake. The common 

pumpkin is delicious prepared in the same way, using, instead of 

sugar, syrup or molasses. The pumpkin must be thoroughly 

steamed before baking, and requires two hours' baking. Some 

cooks add spice. 

Cream Potatoes. 

Pare and cut the potatoes into small squares or rounds, cook 

twenty minutes in boiling water and a little salt. Turn this off, 

add a cup of milk, and when this bubbles up a tablespoonful of 

butter, with a teaspoonful of water, wet up Avith cold milk; also a 

little chopped parsley; simmer live minutes and pour out. 

Potato Croquettes. 
Take six boiled potatoes, pass them through a sieve; add to them 
three tablespoonfuls of ham grated or minced finely, a little grated 
nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, and some chopped parsley; work 
into this mixture the yolks of three or four eggs, then fashion it 
into the shape of balls, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry in hot 
lard, and serve with fried parsley. 

Potato Cake. 
Take potatoes, mashed ones are best, but boiled ones can be 
mashed, immediately after dinner, before getting too cold; add 
about an equal amount of flour and a smaH ))iece. of butter or lard; 
rub thoroughly together, roll out and cut as for biscuit — not too 
thick — and bake in a rather quick oven. When done to a light 
brown, cut open, butter and eat warm. 



VEGETABLES. 337" 

Fried Potatoes. 

Take cold boiled potatoes, grate them, make them into flat cakes, 
and fry them in btitter. You may vary these cakes by dipping 
them in the beaten yolk of an egg and rolling thera in bread crumbs, 
frying them in boiling lard. 

Fried Potatoes, No, 2. 

Raw potatoes, peel, cut in rings the thickness of a shillings or 
cut in one continuous shaving; throw them into cold water until 
you have sufficient; drain on a cloth; fry quickly in plenty of hot 
fat, and with as little color as possible; dry them Avell from the 
grease, and sprinkle with salt. When nicely done, and piled up 
properly, they make a fine side dish, which is alwnys eaten with 
great relish. 

Or cut a potato lengthwise the size and shape of the divisions of 
an orange, trim them neatly and fry ithem; they are an excellent* 
garnish for meat. Cold potatoes may be cut in slices somewhat 
less than an inch thick, and fried in like manner. They can also be 
fried with onions, as an accompaniment to pork chops, sliced co(i, 
red herring, or with a rasher of bacon. 

Another nice way is to boil them and let them become cold, then 

cut them into rather thin slices. Put a lump of fresh butter into a 

stewpan, add a little flour, about a teaspoonful for a moderate-sized 

dish; when the flour has boiled a short time in the butter add a 

cup of water and a little cream; boil all together; then put in the 

potatoes covered with chopped parsley, pepper and salt; stew them 

for a few minutes, aiivi then take them from the fire and send to the 

table. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Steam or boil potatoes until soft, in salted water; pouf off the 
water and let them drain perfectly dry; sjDrinkle with salt and 
mash; have ready some hot milk or cream in which has been melted 
a piece of butter; pour this on to the potatoes, and stir unti' white 
and very light. 



338 VEGETABLES. 

Potato Surprise. 
Scoop out tlie inside of a sound potato, leaving the skin attached 
At one side of the hole, as a lid. Mince finely the lean of a juicy 
mutton chop with a little salt and pepper; put it in the potato, 
fasten down the lid, and bake or roast. Before serving (in its skin) 
add a little hot gravy if the mince seems too dry. 

Potato Puff. 
Take two cups of cold mashed potato, and stir into it two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, beating to a white cream before adding 
anything else. Then put with this two eggs whipped very light 
and a cup of cream or milk, salting to taste. Beat all well, pour 
into a deep dish, and bake in a quick oven until it is nicely browned. 

Potato Pie. 
Butter a shallow pie dish rather thickly. Line the edges with a 
good crust, and then fill the pie 
with mashed potatoes, seasoned 
with pepper, salt, and grated nut- 
meg. Lay over them some marrow, 
together with small lumps of but- 
ter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced lemon and 
candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake the pie in a 
well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of 

the pie. 

Puree of Potatoes. 

Mash them and mix while quite hot with some fine white gravy 
drawn from veal, together with butter and cream. The puree 
should be rather thin and seasoned with salt and pepper. 

Potato Loaves. 

These are very nice when eaten with roast beef, and are made of 

xnashed potatoes prepared without milk, by mixing them with a 

quantity of very finely-minced raw onions, powdered with pepper 

and salt; then beating up the whole with a little butter to bind it, 




VEGETABLES. 339 

and dividing it into small loaves of a conical form, and placing 
them under the meat to brown; that is, when it is so nearly done as 
to impart some of the gravy along with the fat. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Pare and cut into very thin slices four large potatoes (new pota- 
toes are best) ; let stand for a few minutes in cold salt water, then 
take a handful of the potatoes, squeeze the water from them, dry 
in a napkin, and separating the slices, drop into a skillet of boiling 
lard, taking care that they do not stick together; stir till they are 
of a light brown color, take out with a wii'e spoon, drain well and 
serve immediately. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. 

Boil the potatoes with their jackets on and allow them to cool in 
order to have them solid. Peel and cut into slices about a quartet 
of an inch thick; slice an ordinary sized onion for half a dozen 
potatoes. As soon as a tablespoonful of butter has melted in the 
pan, and the onion begun to color, put in the slices of potatoes. 
Stir them a little; season with salt and pepper; fry the potatoes 
until they are a golden brown, and then chop up a tablespoonful of 
parsley and sprinkle it over them just before taking them out. 

Old Potatoes. 
These can be made to look like young ones in this way: Wash 
some large ones and cut them into as many small slices as will fill a 
■dish; boil them in two or three waters about three minutes each 
time, the water being put to them cold; then let them steam until 
tender; pour a white sauce over them. Potatoes prepared in this 
way have been mistaken for young ones. 

Tossed Potatoes. 
Boil some potatoes in their skins; peel them and cut into small 
pieces; toss them over the fire in .. mixture of cream, butter rolled 
in flour, pepper and salt, till they are hot and well covered with tiie 
eauce. 



340 



VEGETABIiES. 



Sweet Potatoes. 

Sweet potatoes require more time to cook than common potatoes. 

To Boil. — Take large, fine potatoes, wash clean, boil with the 
skins on in plenty of water, hut without salt. They will take at 
least one hour. Drain off the water and set them for a few minutos. 
in a tin pan before the fire, or in the stove, that they may be well 
dried. Peel them before sending them to the table. 

To Fry. — Choose large potatoes, half boil them, and then, hav- 
ing taken off the skins, cut the potatoes into slices and fry in butter^ 
or in nice drippings. 

To Bake. — Bake as the common potato, except give them a 
longer time. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Select those which are nearly of a size, not too large; steam them 

until nearly done, and then bake them until they are soft at the 

heart. 

A Farmer's Dainty Dish. 

Peel and slice thin potatoes and onions (five potatoes to one small 
onion) ; take half a pound of sweet salt pork (in thin slices) to a 
pound of beef, mutton or veal; cut the meat in small pieces; take 
some nice bread dough and shorten a little; line the bottom of the 
stewpan with slices of pork, then a layer of meat, potatoes and 
onions, dust over a little pepper and cover with a layer of crust; 
repeat this until the stewpot iS full. The size of the pot will 
depend on the number in the family. Pour in sufficient water to 
cover, and finish with crust. Let it simmer until meat, vegetables, 
etc., are done, but do not let it boil hard. Serve hot. This we are 
assured by one who knows is a dish fit to set before a king. 
Rice as a Vegetable. 

It should first be picked over, washed, and dried. Then put in 
boiling water, and salt and boil twelve minutes. There should be 
plenty of Avater. At the end of ten or twelve minutes, pour off the 
water, cover up the rice, and set on the back of the stove on a 



VEGETABLES. 341 

"brick; let it steam there for fifteen minutes; if it has been in a 
sufficiently hot place to steam it will now be done, and every grain 
will be distinct; pour off the water, and, for every cup of rice, add 
half a cup of milk and stir. The milk is better warmed before add- 
ing it to the rice. 

Succotash. 

Ten ears green corn, one pint Lima beans; cut the corn from the 
cob, and stew gently with the beans until tender. Use as little 
water as possible. Season with butter, salt and pepper — milk, i* 
you choose. 

Spinach. 

When cooking spinach, substitute a little piece of bacon for th« 
salt pork usually cooked with it to season it. The nicest way to 
serve it is to put a bit of the bacon in each dish. Hard-boiled 
eggs, sliced when cold, are also liked with the greens. 

Cream of SpiNAcn. 

Take the leaves of spinach — no stalks — wash thoroughly; put 
them into enough salt boiling water to cover them. When boiled 
tender, take them out and put them into cold water to fix the fresh 
green color. Let them remain until cold and then rub them 
through a colander with a potato-masher. The spinach is then 
ready for table use. 

Winter Squash. 

Pare, cut up and cook soft in boiling water and a little salt. 
Drain, mash smooth, pressing out all the water; work in butter, 
pepper and salt, and mound in a deep dish. 

Stuffed Squash. 
Pare a small squash and cut off a slice from the top; extract the 
seeds and lay one hour in salt water; then fill with a good stuffing 
of crumbs, chopped salt pork, parsley, etc., wet with gravy; put on 
the top slice; set the squash in a pudding dish; put a few spoonfuls 
of melted butter and twice as lauch hot water in the bottom; cover 



342 VEGETABLES. 

the dish very closely and set in the oven two hours or until tender J 
lay within a deep dish and pour the gravy over it. 

Turnips. 
Pare and cut into pieces; put them into boiling water well salted, 
and boil until tender; drain thoroughly, and then mash and add a 
piece of butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a small teaspoonful of 
sugar. Stir until they are thoroughly mixed, and serve hot. 

Mashed Turnips. 
Pare, quarter and cook tenderly in boiling water; a little salt. 
Mash and press in a heated colander; work in butter, pepper and 
Bait; heap smoothly in a deep dish and put pepper on top. 

Tomatoes a la Cream. 

Pare and slice ripe tomatoes — one quart of fresh ones or a pound 
can; stew until perfectly smooth, season with salt and pepper, and 
add a piece of butter the size of an egg; just before taking from 
the fire, stir in one cup of cream, with a tablespoonful of flour 
stirred smooth in a part of it; do not let it boil after the flour is 
put in. Have ready in a dish pieces of toast; pour the tomatoes 
over this and serve. 

Browned Tomatoes. 

Take large round tomatoes and halve them, place them, the skin 
side down, in a frying-pan in which a very small quantity of butter 
and lard have been previously melted, sprinkle them with salt and 
pepper, and dredge well with flour. Place the pan on a hot part 
of the fire, and let them brown thoroughly; then stir, and let them 
brown again, and so on until they are quite done. They lose their 
acidity, and their flavor is superior to stewed tomatoes. 

Baked Tomatoes. 
One can of tomatoes, stale bread crumbed fine, one tablespoonful 
of butter, pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, and white sugar. 
Drain off two-thirds of the liquor from the tomatoes (tbe rest catt 



VEGETABLES. 343 

be saved for to-morrow's soup). Cover the bottom of a bake-dish 
with crumbs; lay the tomatoes evenly upon this bed; season with 
pepper, salt, sugar, and parsley, with bits of butter here and there. 
Strew bread crumbs over all, a thicker layer than at the bottom; put 
tiny pieces of butter upon this and bake, covered, about thirty-tivc 
minutes. Take off the cover and brown upon the upper shelf of the 
oven. Do not let it stay there long enough to get dry. 

Baked Tomatoes, No. 2. 

Cut in slices good fresh tomatoes (not too ripe) ; put a layer of 
them in a dish suitable for baking; then a layer of bread crumbs 
over them, salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, another layer of 
tomatoes, and so on until the dish is full. Bake one hour. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 
Cut large tomatoes in two, crosswise; put on gridiron, cut surface 
down; when well seared, turn, and put butter, salt and pepper on- 
and cook with skin-side down until done. 

Fried Tomatoes. 

Cut the tomatoes in slices without skinning; pepper and sa't 

them; then sprinkle a little flour over them and fry in butter until 

brown. Put them on a hot platter and pour milk or cream into 

the butter and juice. When boiling hot, pour over the tomatoes 

Scalloped Tomatoes. 
Butter an earthen dish, then put in a layer of fresh tomatoes, 
sliced and peeled, and a few rinds of onion (one large onion for the 
whole dish), then cover with a layer of bread crumbs, with a little 
butter, salt and pepper. Repeat this process until the dish is full 
Bake for an hour in a pretty hot oven. 

Stuffed Tomatoes. 
Choose a dozen large, round tomatoes; cut them off smooth at 
the stem end; take out the seeds and pulp; take a pound of lean 
steak and two slices of bacon; chop them fine, with the inside of 



344 VEGETABLES. 

the tomatoes; season with a linely-choijpcd onion, fried, a dessert' 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, as much 
Cayenne pepper as you can take on the end of a knife and a table- 
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley; add four rolled crackers, and if 
too stiff, thin with stock, water or cold gravy; fill the tomatoes with 
this forcemeat, packing tight; sift cracker crumbs over the top, 
and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 

French Batter for Frying Vegetables, 
Moisten a little flour with w^ater, and add to it a small quantity 
of salt, a tablespoonful of olive oil, and a spoonful and a half of 
French brandy. Beat up the mixture thoroughly, and, when you 
are ready to use it, beat into it the white of an egg previously 
beaten to a strong froth. This batter may be used for frying 
sweet entremets, in which case sugar must be used instead of salt. 

Rules for Cooking Them. 
Green vegetables should be thoroughly washed in cold water and 
then dropped into water that has been salted and is beginning to 
boil. There should be a tablespoonful of salt to each two quarts of 
water. If the water boils long before the vegetables are put in, it 
has lost all its gases, and the mineral ingredients are deposited on 
the bottom and sides of the kettle, so that the water is flat and 
tasteless, then the vegetables will not look well or have a fine flavor. 
The time for boiling green vegetables depends much upon the age 
and time they have been gathered. The younger and more freshly 
gathered the more quickly they are cooked. Below is a very good 
time-table for cookings vesjetables: 

Potatoes boiled, thirty minutes. 

Potatoes baked, forty-five minutes. 

Sweet potatoes boiled, fifty minutes. 

Sweet potatoes baked, sixty minutes. 

Squash boiled, twenty-five minutes. 

Green pease boiled, twenty to forty minutes. 

Shelled beans boiled, sixty minutes. 



VEGETABLES. 345 

String beans boiled, one to two hours. 
Green corn, thirty to sixty minutes. 
Asparagus, fifteen to thirty minutes. 
Spinach, one to two hours. 
Tomatoes, fresh, one hour. 
Tomatoes, canned, thirty minutes. 
Cabbage, forty-five minutes to two hours. 
Cauliflower, one or two hours. 
Dandelions, two or three hours. 
Beet greens, one hour. 
Onions, one or two hours. 
Beets, one to five hours. 
Turnips, white, forty-five to sixty minutes. 
Turnips, yellow, one and a half to two hour* 
Parsnips, one or two hours. 
Carrots, one or two houri. 



ta)etgl)t0 anh MtaBUXtQ. 



4 Teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful liquid. 

4 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 wineglass. 

2 Wineglasses equal 1 gUl, or half a cup. 

2 gills equal 1 coffee-cupful, or 16 tablespoonfuls. 

2 Cofifee-cupfuls equal 1 pint. 

2 Pints equal 1 quart. 

4 Quarts equal 1 gallon. . 

2 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 ounce, liquid. 

1 Tablespoonful of salt equals 1 ounce. 

16 Ounces equal 1 pound, or pint of liquid. 

1 Pint of sugar equals 1 pound. (Wliite granulated.) 

1 Quart of unsifted flour equals 1 pound. 

4 Cofifee-cupfuls of sifted flour equal 1 pound. 
10 Ordinary sized eggs equal 1 pound. 

2 Coffee-cupfuls of powdered sugar equal 1 pound. 

1 Coffee- cupful of cold butter, pressed down, is one half pound. 
1 Tablespoonfid of soft butter, well rounded, equals 1 ounce. 
An ordinary tumblerful equals 1 coffee cupful, or half a pint. 
1 Pint of finely chopped meat, packed solidly, equals 1 pound. 

346 



^ougckccpci'g %ime-^able. 



Apples, sour, hard 

Apples, sweet and mellow 

Asparagus 

Beans (pod) •• 

Beef 

Beefsteak 

Beefsteak 

Bass, fresh 

Beets, young 

Beets, old •••• 

Bread, wheat 

Cabbage 

Cauliflower 

Chicken 

Codfish, dry and whole 

Custard (one quart) 

Dumpling, apple 

Eggs, hard 

Eggs, soft 

Eggs ; • 

Fowls, domestic, roasted or 

Goose, wild 

Lamb 

Meat and Vegetables 

Mutton 

Mutton 

Onions 

Oysters 

Parsnips 

Pork 

Pork 

Pork 

Potatoes 

Potatoes 

Rice 

Salmon, fresh 

Sausage, broiled or 

Soup, vegetable 

Soup, chicken 

Spinach 

Tapioca 

Tomatoes 

Tomatoes 

Trout, salmon, fresh boiled or. 

Turkey, boiled or 

Turnips 

Veal 

Venison steak 



Mode of 
Preparation. 



Raw 

Raw 

Boiled 

Boiled 

I oasted 

Broiled 

Fried 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Baked 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fricasseed 

Boiled 

Baked 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fried 

Boiled 

Roasted 

Boiled 

Hashed 

Roast 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Stewed 

Boiled 

Roast 

Boiled 

Broiled 

Boiled 

Baked 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fried 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Boiled 

Fresh 

Canned 

Fried 

Roasted 

Boiled 

Broiled 

Broiled 



Time of 
Cooking. 



15 to 30 

1 00 
20 
10 
10 
20 

2 00 
4 30 
1 00 
1 00 



Time of 
Digestion., 



1-2 00 

1 00 

^ 15 

30 

1 00 

10 

3 

5 

1 00 

^ 20 

* 20 
80 

* 25 
20 

1-2 00 

5 

1 00 

* 30 

* 25 
20 
30 
45 
20 

8 
25 

1 00 

2 00 
1-2 00 



30 
00 
30 
30 
20 
45 
20 
20 



H. M, 

2 40 

50 
30 
30 
00 
00 
00 
00 
35 



00 
30 
30 
30 
45 
00 
45 
00 
30- 
00 
30 
00 



2 30 



30 
30 
15 
00 
00 
30 
00 
15 
30 
15 
30 
30 
00 
45 
00 
00 
00 
30 
CO 
30 
30 
30 
30 
30 
00 
35 



ihSfgivenPsTe'^general average; the time will vary slightly with the quality of the. 
article. 3^^ 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. 



Asprc. — A sarory jelly. 

AssiKTTiss. — Small entries not more than 

• I plate will contain. 

Atklkt. — A small silver skewer. 

Au Bled. — A French term applied to fish 

• foiled in white wine with flavors. 

Au GrtAS. — Dressed with meat gravy. 

Au Jus. — In the natural juice, or gravy. 

Au Naturel. — Plain, simple cookery. 

Baba. — Very light plum-cake, or sweet 
French yeast cake. 

Bain -Marie.— An open vessel which has a 
I loose bottom for the reception of hot water. 
■ It is used to keep sauces nearly at the boil- 
ing point without reduction or burning. 

Bardk. — A thin slice of bacon fat placed 
' over any substance specially requiring the 
assistance of fat without larding. 

Batterie db Cuisine.— Complete set of 
> cooking apparatus. 

Bavaroise a l'eau. — Tea sweetened with 
syrup of capillaire, and flavored with a little 
' orange-flower water. 

Bavaroise au Lait.— Made in the same 
way as the above, but witli equal quantities 
of milk and tea. 

BficHAMEL.— A rich white French sauce. 

Beiqnet, or Fritter (see Fritter). 

Bisque.— A soup made of shell-fish. 

Blanc. — White broth used to give a more 

• delicate appearance to the flesh of fowl, 
Iamb, etc. 

Blanch. — Placing anything on the Are in 
cold water until it boils, and after straining 
it off, plunging it into cold water for the 
purpose of rendering it white. Used to 
whiten poultry, vegetables, etc. 

Blanquette.— A fricass6e usually made of 
thin slices of white meat, with white sauce 
thickened witli egg yolk. 

Blonde de Veau.— Double veal broth used 
..to enrich soups and sauces. 



Boudin.— A delicate compound made o) 
quenelle forcemeat. 

BouiLLi.— Beef which has been boiled in 
making broth. 

B.jUILLie.— A French dish resembling that 
called hasty pudding. 

BoriLLON.— The common soup of France. 

Bouquet of Herbs.— Parsley, thyme, and 
green onions tied together. 

Boi:quet Garni.— The same thing as Fa- 
got, which see. 

Bourguignote.— A ragoiit of truffles. 

Braise. — Meat cooked in a closely-covered 
stewpan to prevent caporation, so that the 
meat retains not only its own juices, but 
those of any other articles, such as bacon, 
herbs, roots and spice put with it. 

Braisiere. — A saucepan with ledges to the 
lid, so that it will contain firing. 

Briber.— To truss fowls with a needle and 
thread. 

Brioche.— A sponge cake similar to Bath 
buns. 

BuissoN.— A cluster or bush of small pastry 
piled on a dish. 

Callipash. — The glutinous portion of the 
turtle found in the upper shell. 

Callipke. — The glutinous meat of the 
turtle's under shell. 

Cannklons. — Small rolls or collars of 
mincemeat, or of rice and pastry with fruit. 

Capilotade.— A hash of poultry. 

Casserole.— The form of rice to be filled 
with a fricassee of white meat or a purSe of 
game; also a stewpan. 

Civet. — A dark, thickish stew of hare or 
venison. 

CoMPifeGNE.— Sweet French yeast cake, 
with fruit. 

Compote.— Fruits stewed in syrup. There 
are also compotes of small birds. 

CoNFiTUtiES. -Sweetmeats of sugars, fruits, 
syrups, and essences. 



348 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. 



34i>> 



CoNSOMMfi.— strong, clear gravy obtained 
by stewing meat for a considerable length 
of time. 

CouLis.— A rich, smooth gravy used for 
coloring, flavoring, and thickening certain 
soups and sauces. 

Croquettes. — A savory mince of fish, 
meat, or fowl, made with a little sauce into 
various shapes, rolled in egg and bread- 
crumbs, and fried crisp. 

CouuoNNE, En.— To serve any prescribed 
articles on a dish in the form of a crown. 

Croustaclks.— Also known as Dresden 
patties. They are composed of mince en- 
cased in paste, and m.oulded into various 
forms. 

Croustades. — Fried forms of bread to 
serve minces or other meat forms. 

Crouton.— A sippet of bread fried, and 
used for garnish. 

Cuisine MASQufiE.— Highly seasoned or 
unusually mixed dishes. 

CuissoN.— Method of cooking meats, or 
the liquor in which they have been bulled. 

Dariolk. — A sweet pat6 baked in a mould. 

Daube. — Meat or fowl stewed in sauce. 

Daubikre. — An oval stewpan. 

DlijEUNER 1 LA Fourchette.— Breakfast 
with meats, wines, etc. 

DfesossER.— To bone. 

DoRURE.— Yolks of eggs well beaten for 
covering meats and other dishes. 

ENTRfiE. — A corner - dish for the first 
course. 

Entremet.— A side-dish for the second 
course. 

Esc A LOPES. — Collops. 

EsPAGNOLK. — A rich brown Spanish sauce. 

Fagot.— A small bunch of parsley and 
thyme tied up with a bay -leaf. 

Farce.— Forcemeat. 

Feuilletage. — Puff paste. 

FiNANciERE.— An expensive, highly fla- 
vored mixed ragout. 

Flamber.— To singe fowl or game after 
picldng. 

Flan. — A French custard. 

Flancs.— The .side-dishes of large dinners. 

FoNCER. — To put in the bottom of a sauce- 
pan thin slices of veal or bacon. 

Fonuue.— A light and pleasant prepara- 
tion of cheese. 

Fkicandeaux may be made of any boned 
pteoea of veal obiefly cut from the thick 



part of the fillet, and of not more than two 
or three pouuds weight. 

FricassSe.- Chickens, etc., cut in pieces 
in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, 
etc., as accessories. 

Fritter -Anj'thing encased in a covering 
of batter or eggs, and fried. 

Gateau.— A pudding or baked cake. 

Gauffres.— A light, spongy sort of biscuit 

Glaze.— Stock boiled down to the thick 
ness of jelly, and used to improve the ap 
pearance of braised dishes. 

GoDiVEAUX. — Various varieties of force- 
meat. 

Gras.— With, or of meat; the reverse of.' 
maigre. 

Gr.vtin.— .\u Gratin.- A term applied tr 
certain dishes prepared with sauce and- 
baked. 

Gratiner.— To cook like a grill. 

Haricot. — So called from the French ■ 
word for beans, with which the dish was 
oi-i.-^inally made. Now understood as anj 
thick stew, or ragoiit of mutton, beef, of 
veal, cut in pieces, and dressed with vego 
tables and roots. 

Hors-d'ceuvres. — Small dishes of sar 
dines, anchovies, and other relishes. 

Lakdiniere. — Vegetables stewed down in • 
their own sauce. 

Laruon. — The piece of bacon used in lard 
ing. 

Liaison. — The mixture of egg and cream . 
used to thicken white soups, etc. 

Lit.- Thm slices in layers. 

Luting.— A paste to fasten lids on pia 
I)ans for preserving game. 

Madelienes.— Small plum cakes. 

Maigre. — Without meat. 

Marinade.— Tlie liquor in which flsh o^ 
meat is steeped. 

Mask.. — To cover meat with any rich sauce, 
ragout, etc. 

Matelote. — A rich flsh stew with wine. 

Mayonnaise.— Cold sauce, or salad dresl 
ing. 

Mazarines, or Turbaj^.— Ornamental e>> 
tr6es of forcemeat and fillets of poultry- 
game, or fish. 

Menu —The bill of fare. 
Meringue.— Light pastry made of sugar 
and the white of^eggs beaten to "scow." 

Miqnonnbttk Pepper. ~C>arrc>l,v grouotii 
peppercorns. 



•350 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. 



'iiROTON.— Small thin slices of meat about 
3S largo as a crown piece nwde into ragoflts 
of various kinds, and dished up in a circular 
lorni. 

MouiLLKR.— To add broth, water or other 
iiquid while the cooking is proceeding. 

Nougat. — Almond candy. 

NouiLLES.— Strips of paste made of eggs 
And Hour. 

Panada.— Soaked bread used in the pre- 
paration of French foivenjeat. 

I'ANER.— To cover with bread-crumbs fried 
or b;ikfd food. 

Fai'illotk, En. — The pieces of paper 
greased with oil and butter, and fastened 
round a cutlet, etc., by twisting it along the 
edge. 

PATft.— A small pie. 

Paupiettks.— Slices of meat rolled. 

PificB DK RAsisTANCK. — The principal 
joint of the dinner. 

Pilau. —A dish of aieat and rice. 

PiQUER.— To lard with strips of bacon fat, 
<tc. 

PoELfeK.— Stock for boiling turkeys, fowls, 
vegetables, instead of water, so as to render 
them less insipid. 

PoTAGE. Soup. 

Printanieus.— Early spring vegetables. 

Profitkrollks.— Light pastry creamed 
inside. 

PurAe.— The name given to soup, the in- 
gredients for thickening whicli have been 
passed through a sieve, then thinned with 
broth to the proper consistency. Meat and 
flsh are cooked and pounded in a mortar, 
roots and vegetables are stewed till soft ia 
order to prepare them for being thus con- 
verted to a smooth pulp. 

QuENKiAKS.— Forcemeat of various kinds 
■composed of fish or meat, with bread, yolk 
of egg, and some kind of fat, seasoned in 
different ways, formed with a spoon to an 
oval shape, then poached in stock and used 
either as garnish to entries, or to be served 
separately. 

Ragout.— A rich sauce, with sweetbreads, 
•mushrooms, truffles, etc., in it. 



RKUivfcs.— The remove dishes. 

RfeMOULADK.— Salad-dressing. 

RiFACiMENTo. - Meat dressed a second 
time. 

Rissout.— A mince of flsh or meat en- 
closeil in paste, or formed into bjvlls and 
other shapes. Used either as side-dishes or 
garnish. (See aho Frioass6es.) 

RoTi.— Roast meat. 

Roux.— A mixture of butter and flour 
used for thickening white soups and gravy_ 

Salmi. — A hash of game cut up and 
dressed when only hiilf roasted. 

Santox.--To dress with sauce in the sauce- 
pan by keeping it in motion. 

Sauce Pkjuast.— A sharp sauce in which 
lemon and vinegar predominate as a flavor. 

SAUTfi-PAx.— A thin-bottomed, shallow 
pan for quick frying. 

Sauter.— To toss over the flre in a saut6- 
pan with a small quantity of fat only. 

Serviette, a. i^.— Served in a napkin. 

Sippets.— Small pieces of bread cut into 
various shapes, eitLer soaked in stock, 
toasted, or fried, to serve with meats as 
garnishing or borders. 

SouFFiJ;.— A light pudding. 

Stock.— The broth of which soups are 
made. 

Tamis or "Tammy."— A strainer of fine 
woollen canvas, used forstraining soups and 
sauces. 

TiMBALK.— A sort of pie made in a mould. 

Tourte.— A tai"t baked in a shallow tin. 

Trifle. — A second-course dish, made of 
sponge cake, macaroons, jams, etc., brandy 
or wine, and liqueurs. 

Trovsser.— To truss a bird. 

Turbans (see Slazarines). 

Vanner, To.— To make a sauce smooth by 
rapidly lifting it high in large spoonfuls,and 
allowing it to fall quickly again for some 
time. 

VELOUTfe.— Rich sauce used to heighteq 
the flavor of soups and made dishes. 

VoL-AU-VE.NT.— A li^ht puff paste, cut 
I ouud or oval, enclosing any delicate mince- 
meat. 



^biiitional Hcctpe©. 

7 



851 



•^4S';.. 



PART IL 



THK DININO room:. 

Table Etiquettte, 
diming invitations. 



GROCKR'S DERARTIMKNT. 

"VVlNES. 

OONKEOTIONERY, 

i^vllSCELLANEOUS. 



For Profitable E^iployment 

SEE PUBLISHER'S NOTICE ON RAGE 400. 



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CHAPTER I. 

®lie JDining Hoom. 




UE dining room should be one of the most 
pleasant rooms in the house ; light, cheerful, 
nicely arranged, neat, clean and well aired. 
A hardwood floor is cleaner than carpet for 
a dining room. Eugs may be used on the 
floor and these can easily be taken up and 
cleaned. If a carpet be used, the better 
grade of ingrain is the most serviceable. 
The pictures should be of fruit or game 
scenes. A wainscot of oak or of different colored woods, as 
mai)le, cherry and walnut, is very tasty. 

The extension table should be square cornered, wide, not too 
Tiigh, and when not in use should be covered with a colored cloth, 
with fringe extending just over the edge of the table. The cloth 
may be of j)lush or felt goods. N^ever keep a table set from meal 
to meal. 

Sideboards are indispensable and should be of color of 
wainscoting, and are now built in the wall. The upper part has 
shelves for flowers, vases, china and other ornaments, the lower 
part being deeper and contains drawers for knives, forks, spoons, 
napkins, and below apartments for the fine table ware and linen. 
The chairs should be easy and of rich design; the plain leather 
upholstering being the best. Avoid large or high backed chairs. 
It is almost impossible for a waitress to serve a table when the 
dishes must be lifted over and through and between these moun- 
tain peaks. Dresses are often ruined where they are used. 

371 



372 the dining koom. 

The Breakfast. 

Colored spreads may be used for breakfast. The white and 
red, pink and buff damasks are most used for breakfast and tea. 
The breakfast is the meal where tempting food should be served. 
Ham and eggs, eggs on toast, bacon, fried chicken or quail, eg^ 
omelets, fruit, and good coffee or chocolate are tempting break- 
fast dishes. A few flowers on the table add much to the meal. 

Fruits should be served first, oat meal second, and then follow 
meats, eggs and fried or baked potatoes, with hot cakes last. 

Lunch. 

When dinner is served at six, a lunch is served at noon, and is 
a plain meal of cold or warm meats, vegetables pastry and 
lemonade. The noon lunch is a convenience in cities for business 
men, who cannot spend time for dinners, usually taking their 
lunches down town and having their dinners at six or seven 
o'clock, when the cares of the day are over, and they can enjoy 
their dinners with their families. 

The Tea. 

The tea is at six o'clock if dinner be served at noon. This meal 
is usually light and simple. Cold meats and a cup of tea with 
bread or warm biscuits, finishing with cake, custards, creams, or 
stewed fruits, make up the usual evening tea. A light meal of 
this kind is more healthful, and to be preferred to a full and 
hearty meal at night. White or light colored table cloths and 
napkins to match may be used. 

Dinnee. 

Dinner, with the Europeans, is served at six to seven o'clock 
in the evening, and full dress is worn. This hour for dinner is. 
adopted by many American families, especially in cities j but 
the most common hour for dinner is at noon, and it is no doubt 
more healthful to eat a full meal at this hour than at night. 
Dinner is the principal meal of the day. 



THE DINIXG ROOM. 373 

For dinner the table should always • be spread with white 
damask and large white napkins. 

Where there are no servants, the dinner is all placed on the 
table, the roasts being served by the head of the house and the 
vegetables by the lady of the house. But where there are 
servants the dinner is best served in courses, brought on the 
table by the servant at call of the bell, and is thus kept hot. 
Soui) should be served first — the plates removed and then the fish 
is served. Where there is no fish the meat and vegetables follow 
the S0U15. After this course the table is cleared of dishes not 
needed for the next course, and the servant brushes the crumbs 
from each place, using crumb brush or napkin, and the pastry and 
dessert is served. Fruit and nuts being served last. When coffee is 
used it is served with the dessert. Finger bowls are quite as need- 
ful as napkins, for the fingers are also liable to become a little soiled 
in eating. They can be had quite cheaply, and should be half filled 
with water, and placed upon the side table or butler's tray, with 
the dessert, bread and cheese, etc. They are passed to each 
person, placed on a parti- colored napkin with a dessert plate 
underneath, when the dessert is placed upon the table. A leaf 
or two of sweet verbena, a flower or a small slice of lemon, is 
usually put into each bowl to rub upon the fingers. The slice of 
lemon is most commonly used. The finger tips are slightly 
dipped into the bowl, the lemon juice is squeezed ui)on them, and 
then they are dried softly upon the napkin. The lemon juice 
removes stains on the fingers. At dinner parties and luncheons 
they are indispensable 

The Sideboard. 

The sideboard should be used for the reserved knives, forks, 
dinner plates, sauce holders, tumblers and wine glasses. The 
finger bowls, coffee cups and saucers, small spoons, dessert and 
dcvssert plates should be placed on a small side table. A butler's 
table should be nearest the door, and from it the principal dishes 



374 THE DINING ROOM. 

are served, and here tlie roast is carved. Tliis table should con- 
tain the plates for the course. 

"Wlieu x^lates are removed from the table they should be sent 
to the kitchen. 

Caeying. 

"WTiere a butler is not employed the head of the house should 
do the carving. He should by all means have a sharp knife. A 
good carver cannot be a success "srith a dull knife. Good carving 
is very essential and should be 'vrell studied. The guard on the 
fork should be raised to prevent cutting the hand. Place the 
fork firmly in the roast or fowl, to prevent slipping. Always sit 
— never stand — when carving. 

The Servants. 

Nothing is more essential for a successful dinner than weR 
trained servants. Conduct your every day meals the same as when 
you have company; be as particular in every detail and you will 
have no cause for annoyance by the mistakes of servants when you 
have guests. All dishes should be handed to one's left, excejjt 
tea, coffee and water ; these should be handed to the right. 
Guests should be served first ; when only the immediate family 
is at the table the ladies should be served first. Servants should 
wear slippers to avoid making unnecessary noise. It is not 
necessary to thank servants; a simple nod of the head is sufficient. 
AYhen dinner is ready for serving, the butler or waiter steps to 
the door and informs the host hj a nod of the head. 

The Knife. 

The knife is for cutting the food and not for conveying it to 
the mouth. This may seem unnecessary advice, but if you think 
so, take notice in public i)laces how often it is misused. 
Although a fork is almost entirely used in eatiiig dessert, a knife 
is not out of place if placed at the plate, as it is often needed for 
cutting. 'When both have been used finally, they should be laid 



THE DINING EOOM. 375 

across the plate with the handles toward the right hand. This is 
understood by well trained waiters to be the signal for removing 
them and the plate. 

The Foek. 

It is now customary to use the fork instead of the spoon in 
every case possible. It is used for eating most of the made 
dishes, for salads, fish and oysters cooked in any style except a 
stew, peas and beans, miished potatoes, cream cake and nearly 
all dessert. It should carry most of the food to the 
mouth, and be held in the right hand with the tines 
up. At many tables two, three or more knives and 
forks are placed on the table at each plate, the knives 
at the right hand of the plate, the forks at the left, a knife and a, 
fork for each course, so as to avoid the necessity of replacing 
them after the breakfast or dinner is served. The smaller ones, 
which are for game, dessert or for hot cakes at breakfast, can be 
kept under the edges of the plate, and the larger ones, for the 
meat and vegetables, are placed outside of them. As many 
spoons as are needed should also be placed at the side of the 
plate. 

The Spoon. 

With soup a spoon a size between the dessert and tablespoon 
is used, and should be carried to the mouth with the arm close 
to the body, and the soup taken from the side of the spoon and 
not from the point. With the dessert or after dinner coffee cups, 
very small spoons are used. 

The teaspoon is used in taking tea or coffee, also in eating 
creams and custards, musk mellons, oranges and aU liquids. 
When drinking remove the spoon from the cup. In eating 
stewed or preserved fruits the stones or seeds may be removed 
from the mouth to the plate with the spoon. In pastry the fork 
can be used for this pui-pose. 



376 the dining room. 

The Napkin. 

The napkin should be very clean and not starched, well ironed 
and aired before used. A coarser grade of napkin may be used 
for children as they are more often soiled, and requiring more 
rubbing are soon worn out. It is not customary for a guest to 
fold the napkin when through. A gentleman should unfold the 
napkin and place it across the right knee. The napkin should 
not be fastened around the neck except for children or aged 
people. 

Ceremonious Dinners. 

The table should be covered with a fine damask table-cloth 
laid with the inside fold down the center of the table, whether 
the damask has been ironed or not, on the right side; it is 
indispensable to observe that the creases are on the top. Some 
prominent design in the damask generally indicates the center of 
the cloth, which must be laid in the center of the table, over which 
the epergne or center-piece for fruit or flowers is placed, and 
from which all the other dishes are regulated in regard to their 
respective i^ositious. The plates should be well dusted before 
they are laid, the silver polished to the utmost brightness, and 
the salt-cellars filled with clean sifted salt. Two forks should be 
placed on the left hand, and two knives and spoons on the right. 
Large spoons should be crossed at each corner of the table, and 
in the center of each side; tumblers and wine-glasses on the 
right hand, from three to five in number, according to the differ- 
ent wines used; the napkin folded square, with one-half tuimed 
back, and laid on the right hand or directly in front of the plate. 
The soup -ladle, gravy -spoon, and carving-knife and fork go 
before the hostess; the fish-trowel, gravy-spoon, carving-knife 
and fork also before the host^ — and each should be an expert in 
the art of carving and helping gracefully and easily. 

The side-table should be laid with white cloth; the silver, plates, 
finger-bowls and glasses, needed during dinner, should be arranged 



THE DINING ROOM. 377 

neatly and tavStefullj' ou it. The Mine-coolers can be placed 
beneath this table or at its side. A stack of fresh napkins, a 
l)owl of broken ice, and bottles of sance ready to serve, should 
all be there in readiness for immediate use. 

Wlien the soup is on the table, the butler or waiter will 
announce that ''dinner is served." 

"WTien the soup-course is over, the waiters remove the plates 
quietly, and the fish is instantly served upon a hot plate, which 
is placed before each guest. There are no vegetables served 
with fish, but a sallad is allowable. If the fish be boiled, a plate 
of sliced lemon should be handed about, to be squeezed upon the 
fish, unless fish-sauce, soy, or other condiment is preferred. With 
salmon, thinly cut slices of cucumber, dressed with pepper, salt, 
.and vinegar, should be served. If the fish is served from the 
dining-table, before it is removed the fish-trowel and spoon 
should be taken away on a small tray. When a guest wishes to 
Iiave his plate removed, he is supposed to rest his knife and fork 
on the plate. A well trained servant observes no other rule in 
making the change. 

Sherry is the wine usually drunk with soup and fish. There is 
little ceremony in drinking wine at the table now; it is not even 
necessary to bow to your neighbor, on raising the glass to your 
lips; still, it is a graceful deference to an old custom. 

Gentlemen do not drink their wine until the lady accompany- 
ing them is helloed. A slight inclination to your escort, or your 
iLOst or hostess, is always in good taste. 

After the fish, game may be served, to be followed by meats, 
after which the jilates and silver are removed, and crumbs 
l)rushed into a crumb tray, and the dessert is placed on the table 
— a large epergne of mixed fruit and flowers in the center, with 
fruit-knives, finger-bowls, colored doyleys and fruit plates. If 
coffee is required, it may be handed from the sideboard; but the 
jnore hospitable way is for the hostess to send it from a tray 



378 THE DINING ROOM. 

placed before her, and the waiter also hands the cream and sugar 
to each guest. 

The polished mahogany of olden times has been superseded by 
the more comfortable dessert spread, or by retaining the white 
dinner cloth to the end of the feast. A tiny knot of flowers at 
each plate or in the finger-bowl is always observed at company 
dinners. 

A square of bread may be folded in each napkin, with either a 
Jacque or Bon Silene rose placed in the upper fold, or the bread 
may be handed to the guests on \Yedgewood bread-plates. 

Arrangement of Table and Seating Guests. 

The march of civilization and modern degeneracy have 
materially lessened the labors of dinner giving in the j)resent. 
As a mere matter of contrast it might be well to picture the 
hostess of latter days, who, having bidden her guests, and con- 
sulted with her cook or caterer, abandons all concern until an 
hour before the coming of the guests. The absolute work of 
arranging cloth, silver, crystal, and steel devolves upon the well- 
trained servant: but there are graceful finishing touches which 
no hand but the mistress' may give. There are sprays of smilax 
to be trailed over piles of rosy fruit, and flowers to be grouped in 
studied carelessness beside each plate. Dinner cards, and the 
mighty question of places, must be settled; bon-bons, little cakes, 
and crystalized fruits must be arranged. Lamps and candles 
must be reviewed, the temperature of the room regulated, screens 
set, and portieres drawn for the comfort of the company. A 
Avord of admonition to be given to the servant about the warmth 
of the soup, the chill of the oysters, etc., before the mistress 
vanishes into her dressing room, soon to re-appear and take her 
j)lace, watchful, gracious, yet unconscious, as hostess of the feast! 

The order of guests going in to dinner is the same in general 
society — viz., the lady of the house or her representative takes 
the head of the table, and the mastec of the house the same. The 



THE DINING EOOil. 379 

most distinguished lady of the company is conducted to the table 
by the master, and is jilaced at his right hand, having on his left 
the lady next in distinction. The same rule is observed with 
regard to the lady of the house, the two gentlemen it is designed 
to honor most, are placed on her left and right hand. Seat ladies 
next to those two, then gentlemen, then ladies, and so on. 

During the interval that elapses between the assembling of the 
company and going to table, the hostess quietly designates to the 
gentlemen, the ladies whom she wishes them to conduct to the 
dining-room. If it should happen that the guests are strangers 
to each other, an introduction from the hostess is necessary. 
When dinner is announced, the host should rise and offer his 
arm to the lady he is to lead to the dining-room, and the rest of 
the company follow his example. The last to leave the 
drawing-room are the hostess and the gentleman who escorts her. 
It is the duty of the lady of the house to see all her guests on 
their way to the dining-room before she leaves the drawing-room 
herself. It greatly facilitates the ease of seating company, if the 
names of guests are placed in their plates, as it is by no means 
an easy task for a hostess to remember the exact place assigned to 
each guest without some aid of this kind. Sometimes the host^ 
previously informs them upon which side of the table they are to 
sit, which is a very good arrangement for preventing confusion. 
The ladies and gentlemen stand at their places until the hostess 
is seated, when the gentleman, having his right arm free, arranges 
the lady's chair and places her at his right. If there are any 
vacant chairs, they are, if possible, left the farthest from the 
entertainers, as it is pleasant for the latter to be as near as they 
can to their guests. 

The butler calk^ the names and seats the guests. Serving a. 
dinner occupies two hours or more. Strong black coffee without 
sugar or milk, is served after dessert, and half an hoiu" later, tea . 
is served in the drawing-room. 



380 the dining room. 

French Etiquette foe Diners Out. 

[From the French (Code Ceremonial) of the Countess De Bassauvillk.] 

In dress complete of silk and lace, 

In spirits gay and fine, 
Promptly arrive, with beaming face, 

When you go out to dine. 
Go precisely at the hour in the invitation stated, 
Nor hurry in before the time, nor ever be belated. 

To the lady for him chosen 

By the hostess able, 
Offers the gentleman his arm 

To lead her to the table. 
No lady should refuse the arm of Monsieur brave, 
To do otherwise he'd recognize as insult very grave. 

When en route for the dining-hall, 

Ko lady, called well-bred, 
Will stop, or hesitate at all : 

But, with well-measured tread, 
Will observe the btrictest order, nor let any pass before. 
Both in going from the parlor, and returning to it,s door. 

A card should indicate your seat ; 

But if you find it not. 
Await with manner most discreet 

Till Madame casts your lot ; 
Then place yourself behind the chair Madame has signified, 
And wait her signal to sit down, with presence dignified. 

The men should wait until they see 

The dames their napkins hold, 
'Then spread them deftly on the knee. 

And do not quite unfold. 
Be not too near the table, and of the opposite beware ; 
Sit upright with graceful air ; lean not back upon your chair. 

'Tis called uncouth to cut one's bread ; 

It should broken be ; 
Upon the plate it should be spread 

And eaten leisurely. 
Accept the plate that's to you sent, nor pass it to another. 
The host who has remembered you will not forget your brother. 



THE DINIXG ROOM. 381' 

Attract their glance and make a sign, 

But servants do not call, 
If you should want more bread or wine, 

Or anything at all. 
And thank them not ; in serving you they serve their master still, 
Avoid all noise with knife, fork, plate, and use your jaws with skill. 

Eat with the left hand, cut with the right, 

Handle not any bones. 
Guests should not laugh, ('tis ill-bred quite), 

While speaking in low tones. 
Be affable to other guests as much as in you lies. 
Be attentive when your hostess the signal gives to rise. 

A part of your evening is 4ue 

The house where you have dined ; 
So, after dinner, hours two 

Are given to feast of mind. 
Then say good-bye. Within a week your hosts a visit pay, 
Their feast to praise, and of their guests the kindliest things to say. . 

And courtesy requires that you 

An ample dinner give 
Within the month that does ensue ; 

Unless it be you weary live 
A bachelor, a widow lorn, or lady still unwed, 
Or fortune's fickle favors are not round your pathway shed. 

M. A. E. 

Eeceptions. 
The recei)tion is a convenience for entertaining a large number 
of friends. The invitation may be a lady's usual visiting card, 
adding "At Home," and the date and hours for recej)tion. These 
cards may be sent by post or by messenger. 'No answer is 
required either of acceptation or regret unless it be requested. 
A man servant or maid servant opens the door without allowing 
the guest to ring. The servant may hold a salver for cards, or 
a table may stand in the hall for this purpose. A maid servant 
is stationed in the ladies' dressing room to remove wraps. The 



382 THE DINING EOOM. 

hostess should, with those receiving, stand in the reception room, 
the hostess introducing guests, where not acquainted, to those 
receiving with her. For day receptions, a visiting costume with 
bonnet is worn. ISTatural flowers may be added if desired. 

The guest may or may not remove wraps. Their stay is about 
a half hour. On entering the house, one's card and the card of 
any member of the family unable to attend, should be handed 
the servant or left on the card table. The refreshments are, 
oysters or salads, coffee, rolls, ices, cake, confectionery, and 
should be served from the table to guests while standing. 

The house may be decorated with flowers, plants and vines. 
Calls are unnecessary after a reception, except from those unable 
to attend. 

The Kettle-drum. 

A kettle-drum is another name for a reception, but less formal. 
It is always held in the afternoon however, and the refreshments 
may be tea or coffee and chocolate, sandwiches, buns and cake. 
Conversation and music is the order of entertainment. 

The dress is the same as for day reception. 

. For invitations the hostess simply adds to her visiting cards 
the word ''Kettle-drum," with date and hour, and name of 
friends receiving with her. 

Tie Five O' Clock Tea. 

This is less formal than a kettle-drum. The attendance being 
small, and the enjoyment more of a social visit, than eating and 
drinking. Tea and coffee with thin sandwiches and cakes are 
served by members of the family without the aid of servants. 

The invitation is usually the visiting card with the words ''five 
o'clock tea" and the date written in the lower left hand corner. 



THE DINING ROOM. 383 

TABLE ETIQUETTE. 
The Manner of Eating a Test of Eefinement. 

The mother who would have her children form correct habits 
at the table should begin early and keep up the training till it 
becomes second nature to them to eat j^roperly and behave fault- 
lessly. She must create a proper sentiment in them by having 
the table well appointed, the food prepared and served daintily, 
and the order of the service unvarying. As to the table aiDpoint- 
ments, the cloth should be scrupulously clean, though it be only 
coarse material; it should be nicely starched and ironed, and i)ut 
on straight, its folds parallel with the sides of the table, and they 
"with the side of the room. The napkins, of however coarse 
material, must also be clean, carefully ironed and put on in 
place. The arrangement of the dishes on the table must be uni- 
form, regular and tasteful; each dish, plate, sj)Oon, glass, being 
in its appointed place and kept there. Any one accustomed to 
orderly appointments by habit soon learns to feel the necessity of 
taste and exactitude. These are fearfully neglected in many fam- 
ilies. Table furniture of all sorts is hustled on without regard 
to appearance or order, the napery is disgusting, the carelessness 
in disposing it equally so, and the results are only such as might 
be expected. Children who are required to behave at table 
every day as they are taught to behave when comjjany is i)reseut, 
must sit down every day to as well set a table as is set for 
company. 

As to food it is impossible to feel polite and well-mannered 
over unpalatable, coarse, ill-prepared, indigestible food. Every 
mouthful of it provokes ill-humor, resentment, dissatisfaction. 
The house mother who insists on good table manners must give 
her family good food. How can one be gentle and polite and 
sweet tempered on a diet of sour bread, muddy coffee, soggy 
potatoes, heavy pie- crust, leather batter cakes. Chesterfield 



384 THE DINING ROOM. 

himself would forget Ills manners if comj)elled for any length of 
time to subsist on such a diet. 

As to methods of eating, with the assistance of the knife and, 
fork the food may be so divided as to relieve the incisors of j)art 
of their work, and make small mouthfuls a pleasure. The 
grinders indicate that grinding in the mouth is a ])avt of the pro- 
cass of nutrition. The lips are so constructed that the noise of 
grinding, which is intolerable to ears polite, may be eifectually 
disguised. 

This is a point that cannot be too urgently insisted upon. 
Food, whether liquid or solid, must be conveyed into the mouth, 
and from the mouth downward silently. The position at the. 
table should be unconstrained and easy, the person sitting erect. 
or slightly bent forward when eating, so that the mouth may b& 
directly over the plate; arms should be held at the side, not- 
extended at right angles to the body. The elbows should be kept 
off the table. Leaning back in one's chair is a grievous viola- 
tion of table etiquette. The mouth and fingers must be kept,, 
during the process of eating, absolutely clean. The use «f the-* 
fork to the exclusion of the knife in carrying food to the mouth 
is insisted on. It is perfectly proper to take the last, if you wish 
it. Pears and apples should be peeled and quartered with a silver 
knife, and eaten with the fingers. Oranges may be peeled and: 
sei)arated, or cut across the cells, in two parts, and eaten with a. 
spoon. Bread and crackers should never be broken in the soup, 
but eaten from the hand. The cup when not in use should 
remain in the saucer. 

Leave-taking is permissible only by permission of the hostess.. 
Table talks should be light, agreeable, general, each jjerson 
present contributing his or her quota to the general fund, 
and children observing the excellent rule -of being "seen 
and not heard," unless they are in such majority that the con- 
versation is keyed to their level. Parents who will be at the 
pains to set their children such examples as they wish to sea 



THE DINING ROOM. 385 

folloAved, and will hold theiiiselvcs to a high standard of table 
etiquette, will have no diihcnlty in attaining the results they 
dasire. 

Xever lounge back in your chair at the table. 

^NTever sit too near or too far from the table. 

ISTever eat fast or make unpleasant sounds when eating. 

Never stretch or yawn at the table. 

Never whisper at the table. 

Never pick the teeth at the table. 

Never cut bread, but break it. 

Never play with articles on the table. 

Never sit at the table in your shirt sleeves. 

Never leave the spoon in the cup when drinking. 

Never drink from a saucer. 

Never put the knife in the mouth. 

Never tip back in your chair. 

Never correct servants at the table in presence of guests. 

Never apologize if your cooking is not to your taste. 

Never wear gloves at the table. 

Never, except at a boarding house, leave the table before the 
others without asking to be excused. 

Never lay potato skins on the table cloth. Put them in a side 
dish for that purpose, or leave them on your plate. 

Never eat soup from the point of a spoon, but from the side. 

Never drop your head when eating, but sit up straight. 

Never use a steel knife with fish or fruit. 

Never take your seat at the table before the ladies. 

Never put youi- knife into the salt-cellar. 

Never ask friends to pass an article when servants are at hand. 

Never rest your elbows on the table. 

Never thank host or hostess for your dinner. 

Never as a guest be late to dinner. 

Never put your nai)kin around your neck; let it lay on your 
knee. 



386 THE DINING ROOM. 

Never eat soup from the point of a spoon, but from the side. 

I^ever drop your head when eating, but sit up straight. 

Never use a steel knife with fish or fruit. 

Never take your seat at the table before the ladies. 

Never put your knife into the salt-cellar. 

Never ask friends to pass an article when servants are at hand. 

Never rest your elbows on the table. 

Never thank host or hostess for your dinner. 

Never as a guest be late to dinner. 

Never put your napkin around your neck; let it lay on your 
knee. 

Never drop your knife or fork. If you do, quietly ask the 
servant for another. 

Never urge food upon your guests. 

Never break an egg into a glass, but eat fi'om the shell placed 
in an egg cup, if one be at hand. 




CHAPTER II. 

CSrcccr'0 C3cp ailment. 

General Directions. 

)0U must use only the best granulated loaf 
sugar. Take three and one-half pounds of 
^'Z^y^ refined sugar, one and one-half pints of water 
and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Boil 
over a brisk but not too hot fire. The heat 
should be applied to the bottom only, and 
not to the sides of the dish. Do not stir the 
syrup while hot or it will grain. After boil- 
ing about fifteen minutes drop a little in cold 
water. If, Avhen put in cold water, it cracks and breaks when 
biting, it is completed and should at once be taken from the heat. 
When it is heated above 260° it becomes dark, acquires a bitter 
taste and is spoiled. Keep as near 250° as possible and a steady 
Jieat. When taken from the heat stir in any desired flavor. 
Now turn into any shallow earthen dish, which has been slightly 
greased, and allowed to cool enough to pull it and roll into sticks 
or any desired shape. Butter or put flour on the hands when 
pulling it. 

The top of the inside of the dish that the sugar or molasses is 
"to be cooked in, should be buttered a few inches around the 
inside; it prevents the syrup from rising and swelling any higher 
than where it reaches the buttered edge. 

Bon Bons. 

Take some fine fresh candied orange rind or citron, clear off the 

•sugar that adheres to it, cut it into inch squares, stick these singly 

on the prong of a fork or ozier twigs, and dip them into a solution 

of sugar boiled to the consistency of candy, and place them on a 

3S7 



388 CONFECTIONERY; 

dish rubbed with the smallest possible quantity of salad oil. When, 
perfectly cold put them into dry tin boxes with paper between each, 
layer. 

Butter Scotch. 

One cup of molasses, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter. 
Boil until done. 

BosTOX Caramels. 

One pint bowl of grated chocolate, two bowls of yellow sugar, 
one bowl of New Orleans molasses, one-half cup of milk, a piece 
of butter the size of a small egg, and vanilla flavor; boil about 
twenty-five minutes; this should not be so brittle as other candies* 
Pour in buttered tins and mark deeply with a knife. 

Cream Cocoanut Candy. 
One and a half pounds of sugar, one-half cup of milk; boil ten 
minutes; one grated cocoanut added; boil until thick; put on 
greased pans quite thick; when partially cold cut in strips. 

Cocoanut Caramels. 

Two cups of grated cocoanut, one cup of sugar, two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, the whites of three eggs beaten stiff; bake on a but- 
tered paper in a quick oven. 

Cocoanut Candy. 
One cup of water, two and a half cups of fine white sugar, four 
spoonfuls of vinegar, a piece of butter as large as an egg; boil till 
thick about three-quarters of an hour. Just before removing stir 
in one cup desiccated cocoanut and lay in small flat cakes on but- 
tered plates to cool and harden, 

Chocolate Caramels. 
One cup sweet milk, one cup of molasses, half a cup of sugar, 
half a c-1 of grated chocolate, a piece of butter the size of a walnut; 
stir coiiotantly, and let it boil until it is thick; then turn it out on 
to butt ?red plates, and when it begins to stiffen mark it in squares^ 
BO that : Avill break readily when cold. 



CONFECTIONERY. 389 

Chocolate Cream Drops. 
Mix one-half cup of cream with two of white sugar, boil and stir 
full five minutes; set the dish into another of cold water and stir 
until ii becomes hard. Then make into small balls about the size 
of marbles, and with a fork roll each one separately in the choco- 
late, -vhich has in the meantime been put in a bowl over the 
bailing tea kettle and melted; put on brown paper to cool; flavor 
''^ vanilla if desired. This amount makes about fifty drops. 

Chocolate Kisses. 
One pound of sugar and two ounces of chocolate pounded together 
%id finely sifted; mix with the whites of eggs well beaten to a 
froth; drop on buttered paper and bake slowly. 

Fruit Candy. 

One and one-half pounds of granulated sugar, wet with the milk 
of acocoanut; put into a sauce-pan and let it heat slowly; boil 
rapidly five minutes, then add one cocoanut grated very fine, and 
boil ten minutes longer, stirring constantly. Try a little on a cold 
plate, and if it forms a firm paste when cool, take from the fire. 
Pour part of it out on to a large tin lined with greased paper; then 
add to the remaining cream one-fourth pound of stoned raisins, 
one-half pound of blanched almonds, one pint of pecans, one-half 
cup of chopped walnuts. Pour over the other cream, and when 
cool cut into bars and squares. 

HicKORT-xuT Candy. 
Boil two cups of sugar, one-half cup of water, without stirring, 
until thick enough to spin a thread; flavor; set the dish off into 
cold water; stir quickly until white, then stir in one cup of hicko- 
ry-nut meats; turn into a flat tin, and when cool cut into squares. 

HoREHOUND Candy. 
Prepare a strong decoction, by boiling two ounces of the dried 
herb in a pint and a half of water for about half an hour; strain 



S90 CONFECTIONERY. 

this, and add three and one-half pounds of 'bro-wn sugar; boil over 
a hot fire until it reaches the requisite degree of hardness, when it 
may be poured out in flat tin trays, previously well greased, and 
marked into sticks or squares with a knife, as it becomes cool 
enough to retain its shape. 

Lemon-Cream Candy. 

Six pounds best white sugar, strained juice of two lemons, grated 
peel of one lemon, one teaspoonful of soda, three cups clear water. 
Steep the grated peel of the lemon in the juice for an hour; strain, 
squeezing the cloth hard to get out all the strength. Pour the 
water over the sugar, and, when nearly dissolved, set it over the 
fire and bring to a boil. Stew steadily until it hardens in cold 
water; stir in the lemon; boil one minute; add the dry soda, 
stirring in well; and, instantly, turn out upon broad, shallow dishes. 
Pull as soon as you can handle it, into long white ropes, and cut 
into lengths when brittle. 

Vanilla cream candy is made in the same way, with the substitu- 
tion of vanilla flavoring for the lemon-juice and peel. 

Lemon and Peppermint Drops. 

Take of dry granulated sugar a convenient quantity; place it in a 
saucepan having a lip from which the contents may be poured or 
dropped. Add a very little water, just enough to make, with the 
sugar, a stiff paste; two ounces of water to a pound of sugar is 
about the right proportion. Set it over the fii-e and allow it to 
nearly boil, keeping it continually stirred. It must not actually 
come to a full boil, but must be removed from the fire just as soon, 
as the bubbles, denoting that the boiling point is reached, begin to 
rise. Allow the syrup to cool a little, stirring all the time; add 
strong essence of peppermint or lemon to suit the taste, and drop 
on tins or sheets of smooth white paper. The dropping is per- 
formed by tilting the vessel slightly, so that the contents will run 
out, and with a small piece of stiff wire the drops may be stroked 
off on to the tins or paper. They should be kept in a warm place 



CONFECTIONERY. 391 

for a few hours to dry. In the season of fruits, delicious drops 
may be made by substituting the juice of fresh fruits, as straw 
berry, raspberry, lemon, pineapple or banana, or any of these 
essences may be used. 

Molasses Candy. 
Into a kettle holding at least four times the amount of molasses 
to be used, pour a convenient quantity of Porto Rico molasses; 
place over a slow fire and boil for a half hour, stirring all the time 
to diminish as much as possible the increase of bulk caused by boil- 
ing, and checking the fire or removing the kettle if there is any 
danger of the contents running over. Be very careful not to let 
the candy burn, especially near the close of the boiling. When a 
little, dropped in cold water, becomes quickly hard and snaps apart 
like a pipestem, add a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, free from 
lumps, to every two quarts; stir quickly to mix, and pour on greased 
platters to cool. When the candy is sufficiently cool to handle 
without burning the hands, it is pulled back and forth, the hands 
being rubbed with a little butter (do not use flour) to prevent the 
candy from sticking to them. The more the candy is worked, the 
lighter it will be in color. 

White Molasses Candy. 

Take two pounds of refined sugar (termed by grocers " Coffee 
C "), one pint of pure sugar-house syrup, and one pint best Porto 
Rico or New Orleans molasses. Boil together until it hardens, as 
above described, add one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and 
work in the usual manner. 

Peanut Candy. 

One scant pint of molasses, four quarts of peanuts, measured 
before they are shelled, two tablespoon fuls of vanilla, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda. Boil the molasses iintil it hardens in cold water, when 
dropped from the spoon. Stir in the vanilla, then the soda, dry. 
Lastly, the shelled peanuts. Turn out into shallow pans weU 
buttered, and press it down smooth vrith a wooden spoon. 



392 CONFECTIONERY. 

We can heartily recommend the candy made according to this 
(receipt as being nnrivaled of its kind. 

The molasses should be good in quality, and the peanuts freshly 
roasted. 

Pop-CoKN Balls. 

Add one ounce of white gum arable to a half pint of water, and 
let it stand until aissolved. Strain, add one pound of refined sugar 
and boil until when cooled it becomes very thick, so much so as 
to be stirred with difficulty. To ascertain when it has reached this 
point, a little may be cooled in a saucer. A convenient quantity of 
the freshly popped corn having been placed in a milk pan, enough 
of the warm syrupy candy is poured on and mixed by stirring, to 
cause the kernels to adhere in a mass, portions of wliich maj^ be 
formed into balls by pressing them into the proper shape with the 
hands. Ordinary molasses, or sugar-house syrup may be used as 
well, by being boiled to the same degree, no gum being necessary 
with these materials. Corn cake is ^^repared in a similar manner. 
This mass, while warm, is put into tins and pressed by rollers into 
thin sheets, which are afterwards divided into small, square cakes. 

Taffy. 

Either of the two kinds of molasses candy, if poured from the 
kettle into tin trays without working, will produce a fine plain 
taffy. It may be left in one sheet the size of the tray, or, whei? 
slightly cold, may be marked off in squares. 

Efferton Taffy. 
This is a favorite English confection. To make it take three 
pounds of the best brown sugar and boil with one and one-hali 
pints of water, until the candy hardens in cold water. Then add 
one-half pound of sweet-flavored, fresh butter, which will soften 
the candy. Boil a few minutes untd it again hardens and pour it 
into trays. Flavor with lemon if desired. 



CONFECTIONERY. 393 

Vinegar Candy. 

Three cups white sugar; one and one-half cups clear vinegar; stir 
the sugar into the vinegar until thoroughly dissolved; heat to a 
gentle boil, and stew uncovered until it ropes from the tip of the 
sj^oon. Turn out upon broad dishes, well buttered, and cool, and, 
as soon as it can be handled, pull. It can be pulled beautiful!^ 
white and porous. 

Vinegar Candy, No. 2. 

To one quart of good New Orleans molasses, add one cup of 
^ood cider vinegar; boil until it reaches the j^oint where a little 
dropped into cold water becomes very hard and brittle. Pour into 
shallow platters until cool enough to be handled, and form into a 
large roll, which may be drawn down to any size and cut off in 
sticks. 

Walnut Candy. 

The meats of hickory-nuts, English walnuts, or black Avalnuts 
may be used according to preference in that regard. After 
removal from the shells in as large pieces as practicable, they are 
to be placed on the bottoms of tins, previously greased, to the 
depth of about a half inch. Next, boil two pounds of brown sugar, 
a half pint of water, and one gill of good molasses until a portion 
of the mass hardens when cooled. Pour the hot candy on the 
meats and allow it to remain until hard. 

Meringues, 
Take one pound of powdered sugar, and add to it the beaten 
whites of eight eggs (slowly), until it forms a stiff froth; fill a 
tablespoon with the paste, and smooth it over with another spoon 
to the desired shape; sift a little sugar over a sheet of paper, drop 
the meringues about two inches ai)art; dust a little sugar over 
them, and bake in a quick oven with the door left open part way, 
so they can be continually watched; when fawn colored, take 
them out; remove them from the paper with a thin knife; scrapfl 
out of each a little of the soft part. They may be neatly arranged 



394 CONFECTIONERY. 

around a dish of whipped cream, or filled with ice cream. If 
whipped cream is used, they would be improved by the addition of 
a little bright jelly inside each meringue. 

Cream MERrN-GUES. 
Four eggs (the whites only), whipped stiff, with one pound pow- 
dered sugar, lemon or vanilla flavoring. When very stiff, heap in 
the shape of half an Qgg upon stiff letter-paper lining the bottom of 
your baking pan. Have them half an inch apart. Do not shut the 
oven door closely, but leave space through which you can watch 
them. When they are a light yellow-brown, take them out and 
cool quickly. Slip a thin bladed knife under each; scoop out the 
soft inside and fill with cream whipped as for charlotte russe. They 
are very fine. The oven should be very hot. 

Macaroon. 
Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched sweet almonds and one 
and one-fourth pounds of lump sugar until they are fine; then add 
one-half pound of corn starch, one-fourth pound of rice or wheat 
flour; mix into a fine smooth batter with the whites of about eight 
eggs. Drop the mixture in small quantities through a cornucopia 
on a sheet of paper, dust with sugar, and bake in a steady oven. 
They should be baked a fawn color. 

Bachelor Buttons. 
Rub two ounces of butter into five ounces of flour; add five 
ounces of white sugar; add one beaten egg; flavor; roll into small 
balls with the hands; sprinkle with sugar. Bake on tins covered 
with buttered paper. 

Corn Starch Rateffes. 
One-fourth pound sweet and the same of bitter almonds, one-half 
pound com starch, one-fourth pound of rice flour, one and one- 
fourth pounds of pulverized sugar, the whites of eight eggs. Pro- 
ceed the same as for macaroons, only drop one-fourth the size. 
Do not dust with sugar, and bake in a hotter oven. 



grocer's department. 395'> 

Blackberry Cordial. 

Squeeze the juice from the berries, and to every pint of juice 
add one pint of water; to every quart of this mixture put one 
pint whisky or brandy; sweeten to taste, use the best lefined 
sugar; a few spices may be added if liked. This makes a very 
suj>erior cordial, and improves with age. This recipe answers, 
for strawberries, peaches, wild grapes, etc. 
Blackberry Wine. 

Crush the berries well with a wooden masher; cover with water • 
and stir well together; let them stand twenty-four houi's; then 
strain, and to one gallon of juice put six cups of common brown 
sugar; put into wide mouthed jars for several days, carefully 
skimming off the scum that will rise to the top; put in several 
sheets of brown paper, and let them remain in it three days; , 
skim, and iiour into your cask. There let it remain undisturbed 
six mouths; then strain again and bottle. These directions, if 
carefully followed out, will insure you excellent wine. — Orange 
County Becipe. 

Cherry Bounce. 

Mix together six pounds of ripe morellas and six pounds of 
large black heart cherries. Put them into a wooden bowl or tub, 
and mth a pestle or mallet mash them so as to crack all the 
stones. Mix with the cherries three pounds of loaf sugar, or of 
sugar candj^ broken up, and put them into a demijohn, or into a 
large stone jar. Pour on two gallons of the best double rectified 
whisky. Stop the vessel closely, and let it stand three months, 
shaking it every day during the first month. At the end of the 
three months you may strain the liquor and bottle it. It 
improves by age. 

Currant Wine. 

Steam, mavSh and strain ripe currants, adding a half pint of 
water and two teacui)s of sugar to a quart of mashed fruit. Stir 
well together, and pour into a clean Ciusk, leaving the bung-hole ; 



396 geocer's department. 

open, or covered with a piece of lace. It should stand for a 
month to ferment. Add a little whisky or brandy, and bottle. 

Cream Soda Without the Fountain. 

Coffee sugar, four pounds; three pints of water, three nutmegs, 
grated, the whites of ten eggs, well beaten, gum arable, one 
ounce; twenty drops of oil of lemon, or extract equal to that 
amount. By using oils of other fruits, you can make as many 
flavors from this as you desire. Mix all and place over a gentle 
fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire and 
strain, and divide into two parts, into one half put eight 
ounces of bi-carbonate of soda, into the other half put six ounces 
tartaric acid. Shake well, and when cold they are ready for use 
by pouring three or four spoonfuls from both parts into separate 
glasses, each one-third full oi water. Stir each and pour together, 
and you have a nice glass of cream soda which you can drink at 
your leisure, as the gum and eggs hold the gas. — White Souse 
Cook Bool'. 

Ehubarb Wine. 

An agreeable and healthful wine is made from the expressed 
juice of the garden rhubarb. To each gallon of juice add one 
gallon of soft water, in which seven pounds of brown sugar have 
been dissolved; fill a keg or a barrel with this proportion, leav- 
ing the bung out, and keep it filled with sweetened water as it 
works over, until clear; then bung down or bottle as you desire. 

To Preserve Eggs. 

There are several recipes for preserving eggs, and we give first 
ouo we know to be effectual, keeping them fresh from August 
until Spring. Take a piece of quick-lime as large as a good-sized 
lemon, and two teacupfuls of salt; put it into a large vessel and 
slack it with a gallon of boiling water. It will boil and bubble 
until thick as cream; when it is cold, pour olf the top, which will 
■be perfectly clear. Drain off this liquor and pour it over your 



(IKOCEK'S DlOPAuTMENT. 397 

eggs; see that the liquor more thau covers them. A stone jar is 
the most convenient;— one that holds about six quarts. 

Another manner of preserving eggs is to pack them in ajar 
with layers of salt between, the large end of the egg downward, 
with a thick layer of salt at the top; cover tightly and set in a 

cool place. 

Some put them in a wire basket or a piece of mosquito net, and 
dip them in boiling water half a minute; then pack in saw- dust. 
Still another manner is to dissolve a cheap article'of gum arable, 
about as thin as mucilage, and brush over each egg with it; then 
pack in powdered charcoal; set in a cool dark place.— TFMe 
House Cook Book. 

Preserving Eggs. 

The following mixture was patented several years ago by Mr. 
Jane, of Shefaeld, England. He alleged that by means of it he 
could keep eggs two years. A part of his composition is often 
made use of— perhaps the whole of it would bo bettei. Put into 
■a tub or vessel one bushel of quick lime, two pounds of salt, half 
a pound of cream of tartar, and mix the same together, with as 
much water as will reduce the composition or mixture to that 
consistence that it will cause an egg put into it to swim with its 
top just above the liquid. Then put and keep the eggs therein. 

To Cure Butter. 

Take two parts of fine salt; one part loaf sugar; one part salt- 
peter; mix completely. Use one ounce of this mixture to each 
pound of butter; work well. Bury your butter firkins in the 
earth in your cellar bottom, tops nearly level with the ground, 
or store away in a very cool place, covering the butter with a 
clean cloth and a strong brine on the top, and it will keep two 
years if desired. 

To Keep Butter During Hot Weather. 

A simple mode of keeping butter in warm weather is to invert. 
a large crock of earthen, or a flour pot if need be (varying with 



"^98 grocer's department. 

tlie size of the vessel containing the butter), over the dish or 
firkin in which the butter is held. The porousness of the earth- 
'cnware will keep the butter cool, and all the more so if the pot 
,.be wrapped in a wet cloth, with a little water in the dish with 
the butter. Not the porosity of the earthenware but the rapid 
absorption of heat by external evaporation causes the butter to 
become hard. 

To Keep Apples Fresh All Winter. 

Take fine dry saw- dust, preferably that made by a circular saw 
from well seasoned hard wood, and place a thick layer on bottom 
of barrel. Then place a layer of apples, not close together and 
not close to staves of the barrel. Put saw-dust liberally over 
-and around, and proceed until a bushel and a half (or less) are so 
packed in each barrel. They are to be kept in a cool jDlace. A 
very superior way of x)reserving apples until spring. By it any 
apple in good condition when packed will be equally good when 
unpacked, and even those rotting, because not in good condition 
when put away, will not injure any others. 

Curing Ham or Other Meat for Smoking. 

Take one pound of saltpeter, one pound of pepper, three 
pounds of brown sugar and ten quarts of salt to 100 weight of 
pork. Dissolve the saltpeter in a very little hot water; mix all 
the ingredients well, and then rub it on and into the meat — 
hams, etc. — with the hand, until it is everywhere covered. 
Insert your finger under the center bone in hams and shoulders, 
and then fill that opening with the mixture. Then lay in a cool 
I)lace for about two weeks, not allowing it to freeze, when it will 
be ready to smoke. This recipe has been tried and tested by a 
number of people, and is a preventive in keeping off" all trouble- 
some insects, and the meat will be sweet and tender, and 
"srarranted to keep all summer. Warranted good. 



grocer's department. 399 

To Smoke Hams and Fish. 
Take an old hogshead, stop np all the crevices, and fix a place 
to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be 
smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to intro- 
duce an iron pan filled with hickory wood sawdust and small 
pieces of green wood. Having turned the hogshead upside down, 
hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in 
the opening, and place a piece of red hot iron in the pan, cover 
it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham 
remain ten days, and keep up a good smoke. The best way for 
keeping hams is to sew them in coarse cloths, whitewashed on 
the outside. 

To Cure English Bacon. 

This process is called the "dry cure," and is considered for 
preferable to the New England or Yankee style of putting pre- 
pared brine or pickle over the meat. First the hog should not 
be too large or too fat, weighing not over two hundred pounds; 
then after it is dressed and cooled cut it up into proper pieces; 
allow to every hundred pounds, a mixture of four quarts of 
common salt; one quarter of a pound of saltpeter and four 
pounds of sugar. Eub this preparation thoroughly over and 
Into each piece, then place them into a tight tub or suitable cask; 
there will a brine form of itself, from the juices of the meat, 
enough at least to baste it with, which should be done two or 
three times a week; turning each piece every time. 

In smoking this bacon, the sweetest flavor is derived from 
black birch chips, but if these are not to be had the next best 
wood is hickory; the smoking with corn-cobs imparts a rank 
flavor to the bacon, which is very distiisteful to English people 
visiting this country. It requires three weeks or a month to 
smoke this bacon proiterly.—BerJcshire Recipe. 



400 grocer's department. 

To Try Out Lard. 

Cut the leaf lard into small pieces, and put it into a kettle or 
vsaucepan; pour in a cupful of water to prevent burning; set it 
over the fire where it will melt slowjy. Stir it frequently and 
let it simmer until nothing remains but brown scraps. Eemove 
the scraps with a perforated skimmer, throw in a little salt to 
settle the fat, and, when clear, strain through a coarse cloth into 
jars. Stir it constantly from the bottom until the salt is thrown 
in to settle it; then set it back on the range until clear. If it 
scorches it gives it a very bad flavor. 



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unprecedented. Every book delivered sells another. Many of our 
agents take six to ten orders in a day. Any active agent can 
make one hundred dollars each month selling this book. Our 
terms are the best ever given by any publishers. If yow desire 
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We also wish experienced agents to manage field for us and 
secure agents. 

Address the publishers of this book. See title 
page. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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